A Scotch for the Rest of Us

Gleaning Glenmorangie

Laurann Claridge
Posted:
April 23, 2010

Scotch whisky is admittedly an acquired taste. Once you move past the blended varieties, don’t dive straight into the peaty, smoky single malts that might completely distract you from the subtlety this spirit can possess. Instead, savor Glenmorangie — neat, on the rocks or with a splash. This is the sort of delicate yet complex spirit women can enjoy with a splash of club soda or ginger ale without feeling like they have to join the boys’ club. I’m fascinated with how it’s made (in swan-necked stills — the tallest in all of Scotland, natch), so I recently sat down with master distiller Bill Lumsden, PhD. Understandably intrigued by every component behind the layered profile of Glenmorangie, this biochemist has concentrated his studies on wood finishing. That is to say, he’s culled not only American Ozark oak barrels seasoned first with bourbon to age his whisky, but also worldly casks initially used to make fino sherry, claret, Côte de Nuits and Sauternes, and uses them to “finish” his wildly successful whisky experiments. His Nectar D’Or bottling is matured for a couple of years, longer in the best Sauternes barrels (including those of the fabled Château d’Yquem), giving this deep-golden-colored elixir notes of lemon and nectar. Years ago, Lumsden created Glenmorangie Margaux Cask Finish, a Scotch developed in the famous Château Margaux Bordeaux barrels. Now this pioneer of the barrel-finishing technique has created the Glenmorangie Sonnalta PX Private Collection. It grows up in first-fill bourbon casks (never before used for Scotch) then is transferred to former Pedro Ximénez casks, which once held the sweetest of all Spanish sherries (think concentrated golden raisins). The syrupy remnants cling to the barrel to create a Scotch with sweet, citrus-y notes and a slight floral edge. Sip and savor. Sonnalta PX $80 a bottle, at fine liquor stores.

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