When Bistro Vino, the eatery renowned for quaint garden dining, closed after 24 years, its building languished, slated to be razed in favor of mid-rise condos. As neighbors sulked, the deal fell apart, and 30-something developer Jorge Alvarez and his brother, Isaac, happened upon the 80-year-old Tudor — a new DIY project was born. The Mexico City–born brothers renovated the two-story space to create Ocean’s, a Mexican restaurant specializing in ceviche. Banish images of overcooked calamari and shrimp piled high in a Libbey martini glass. Ocean’s sophisticated selections, created by sushi chef Abel Franco (late of Rickshaw), are simply prepared at the ceviche bar, sliced like sashimi and bathed for a minute or two in a marinade that mixes ingredients such as slivered red onions, olives, chile, avocado and parmesan shavings, in the case of the house original ($12), while the oriental ceviche ($12) melds soy, ginger, OJ, rice vinegar and more for a complex taste. You can make a meal out of any of the 10 changing selections, presented on white oversized platters, or add an Ocean’s Taco (lobster tail, $16) or shrimp tostada Maximiliano ($10). And did we mention Ocean’s margarita? The sweet-and-sour concoction is shaken with fresh orange and lime juices with a hint of agave syrup — bright and brilliant. Open lunch and dinner. 819 W. Alabama, 713.520.7744; oceansceviche.com.
Images: Jorge Alvarez and Isaac Alvarez, Ocean's; photos by Jack Thompson.
The Mexico City–born brothers renovated the two-story space to create Ocean’s, a Mexican restaurant specializing in ceviche.