For the last 40 years, Cyclone Anaya’s World Class Mexican Kitchen — named for its wrestling founder, Jesus “Cyclone Anaya” Valencia — has stayed true to its “Fine Mex” roots. But every concept needs a little shaking up, so two of Valencia’s offspring, Vienna Molder and Rico Valencia, have lured Aussie chef Jason Gould (late of Gravitas) to add spice to the menu and serve as their chief R&D guy. Of course, there’s something in it for both chef and restaurant. C.A. gets the bragging rights, along with a new weekday lunch menu with lighter additions and chef-driven dishes such as cedar-plank grilled salmon and roasted duck empanadas, plus timely dinner specials, all created as the family readies its new CityCentre outpost this summer. Gould, meanwhile, is prepping a new concept of his own, bankrolled by the Valencia clan. Curious about what this classically trained chef brings to the table? (After all, this is his first foray into the Mexican food arena.) We left raving about his slow-roasted carnitas lightened with a fresh salsa of watermelon and jicama; pulled short-rib sandwich with spicy coleslaw and ancho barbecue sauce served with sweet-potato fries; and the fudge brownie laced with tamarind. Looks like this boy wonder from down under knows how to bridge tastes on both sides of our border. Locations and menus, cycloneanaya.com.
Image: Chef Jason Gould.