Laurann Claridge and Kate Allen Stukenberg
- June 01, 2012
He proudly wears American heritage brands (Woolrich, Riley Jeans and Red wings) and decorates with Hudson Bay Blankets. The union workman vibe has pervaded SoHo in New York and Ginza in Japan, and in Dallas, you’ll find him gearing up at Orvis, Beretta and Billy Reid. And He’s not afraid to read A Continuous Lean, Free/Man and The Sartorialist online … After all, that’s where the revival began.
Shop Local: Dallas shops that stock heritage and workman-inspired brands.
Beretta Dallas Gallery, 41 Highland Park Village, 214.559.9800; berettausa.com
Billy Reid, 70 Highland Park Village, 214.346.0010; billyreid.com
Octane, 3120 Knox, 214.522.5900; originaloctane.com
Orvis, 8300 Preston Road, 214.265.1600; orvis.com
Pockets Menswear, 46 Highland Park Village, 214.368.1167; pocketsmenswear.com
Labels to Know
Billykirk: Brothers Chris and Kirk Bray handcraft timeless-looking canvas and leather goods (bags, wallets, watch straps and more) with a wonderful nostalgic quality. billykirk.com.
Engineered Garments: Created by Japanese designer Keizo Shimizu, founder of Nepenthes, Engineered Garments is a brand within a brand by designer Daiki Suzuki that employs artisanal stitchery techniques. Think of it as a mix of urban street edge with crunchy outdoor-guy nonchalance. engineeredgarments.com.
Filson: This American-heritage brand has been around since 1897, and its sturdy canvas bags are de rigueur among manly men with style. Best of all, they only get better with age. Be selective when shopping the clothing line; the jackets and vests are among the pieces Filson does best. filson.com.
H.W. Carter & Sons: Talk about a study in longevity. This New Hampshire-based brand, known for its overalls and workwear, has been in business for 152 years and was contracted by the U.S. railroad system. It’s a name heralded in the Northeast for menswear that never lets you down on the job. This season’s collection is a return to the gloriously gruff and meaty medium of denim and canvas. hwcarterandsons.com.
The Hill-side: These accessories, such as casual chambray scarves, bandanas and pocket squares, complete a man’s look — yet never in a self-conscious way. thehill-side.com.
Levi's: The legend lives on. Keeping up with the trend that hearkens back to its heritage, Levi’s selvedge-goods line is made with unique denim woven on traditional shuttle looms. The signature red and khaki seams identify a time-consuming production. levi.com.
New England Shirt Company: For the last 75 or so years, this little Fall River, Massachusetts, company has made impeccably tailored shirts that a man can really feel comfortable in. Don’t mistake them for precious pieces starched within an inch of their life; these shirts are made to be worn with a few wrinkles. newenglandshirtco.com.
Penfield: This Hudson, Massachusetts, firm has been getting a lot of play lately because of its collaborations with another MA firm, Sperry Top Sider, and sightings of Penfield menswear on models (female, mind you) such as Agyness Deyn. It’s a brand you should get to know. penfieldusa.com.
Red Wing: For more than a century, men who did real work — the sort that puts dirt under the nails and chaps the palms — swore by Red Wing work boots. Adopted by the urban man, this triple-stitch footwear gave rise to the sleek Beckman Chukka boots. redwingshoes.com.
RRL: An acronym for Ralph Lauren’s rugged line. Need we say more. ralphlauren.com.
Save Khaki: Boys, these aren’t your daddy’s Dockers. Save Khaki makes straight (flat-front, natch) trousers in manly hues, from stone to chambray houndstooth. Made in the USA, the line also includes surplus and Bermuda shorts. savekhaki.com.
Woolrich: Branded “The Original Outdoor Company,” Woolrich was founded in 1830 by John Rich in Plum Run, Pennsylvania, with the iconic buffalo-checked flannel shirts. woolrich.com.
For a Pilgrimage: Heritage Shops Elsewhere
Sid Mashburn: Every man with a modicum of sartorial sense should make the acquaintance of Sid Mashburn. This former J.Crew and Ralph Lauren designer has assembled a curated collection of enduring pieces, from Tretorn sneakers and Mackintosh raincoats to trousers and shirts of his own design. sidmashburn.com.
Stag Provisions for Men: Stag is a magnet for guys pairing high with low and vintage with new — a modern-day general store for every man. stagaustin.com.
Ball and Buck: This store was modeled after an old hunting lodge outfitted with vintage industrial lighting, vinyl records, leather sofas and taxidermy heads. (There’s even a barber’s chair in the back for a hot shave and a trim.) You’ll find clothing and accessories by Wolverine, Hill-side, Apolis and Left Field, all made in the USA. Wondering about the name? They say George Washington used to tell his troops during the American Revolution to “ball and buck” their musket loads to make a greater impact on their targets. ballandbuck.com.
Reserve Supply: Reserve celebrated its one-year anniversary with a bash that brought a bevy of vintage motor-cycles to the storefront. No wonder, considering Reserve stocks brands that value quality and construction meant to withstand the test of time. reservesupplycompany.com.
Settlement: Everything here is made in America, and Settlement carries goods from The Good Flock, Grown & Sewn, Beau Ties Ltd. of Vermont and Left Field NYC. settlementgoods.com.
Mortar: This shop on lower Westheimer stocks Rag & Bone, Raleigh Denim, Wings & Horns, United Stock Dry Goods and Gitman Vintage. shopmortar.com.
Imogene + Willie: Jeans don’t get much cooler than the custom denim handmade by the artisans at Imogene + Willie. Before the owners opened their own store and workroom in a former Nashville gas station, they manufactured denim for RRL, Rogan, Levi’s and Ernest Sewn. Under their own label, however, they’re not acid-washing or faking whisker marks on their custom dungarees (available online as well as at stores such as Stag in Austin). imogeneandwillie.com. IMAGE: Matt & Carrie Eddmenson.
Odin New York: With (at last count) three stores in New York, well-edited Odin carries Engineered Garments, Bespoken shoes, Burkman Bros and Shipley & Halmos, as well as its own line of manly fragrances, candles, socks and shirts. odinnewyork.com.
A Continuous Lean, acontinuouslean.com
Mister Crew, mistercrew.com
Mister Mort, mistermort.com
Secret Forts, secretforts.com
The Sartorialist, thesartorialist.com
Man Art: Steel City
Since the late 1970s, Mac Whitney’s heroic towers of steel — often patinated in eye-popping shades of orange-red — have been rising from the landscape. An artist’s artist, Whitney’s prodigious output has resulted in nationwide commissions that include permanent works coast to coast, including Texas creations at the Dallas Museum of Art, DFW Airport and Texas Sculpture Garden locally, as well as a monumental 50-foot, 50,000-pound masterwork owned by the City of Houston that’s been in a tête-à-tête with that metropolis’ skyline since 1981. Known as a master fabricator, the internationally exhibited talent is a hands-on man who labors over his steel and stainless-steel sculptures from his countryside studio in Ovilla, Texas, 35 minutes south of Dallas. Whitney’s career path has included stints farming, working in a boiler plant, inventing and building machinery, and in higher education (he holds an MFA from Kansas University). Recently, his sculptures have become increasingly complex, with lyrical loops and graceful gyrations of metal suggesting torsos in movement. Through Kirk Hopper Fine Art, kirkhopperfineart.com. Catherine D. Anspon
IMAGE: Mac Whitney’s Escobas, 2005. Courtesy the artist and Kirk Hopper Fine Art.