Executive chef Aaron Neeley at the Hotel ZaZa has just put out his new spring menu and there isn’t a new addition I wouldn’t highly recommend. Well thought out, and executed, Neeley has taken on classic dishes and given them a contemporary, yet playful tweak.

On staff since the museum district hotel’s opening four years ago, Neeley was elevated within the last year and a half to head toque presiding over Monarch, their signature restaurant, and the countless banquets, galas and events that happen on premise. Below are my tasting notes on the new dishes gracing his menu.  

Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes ($16) with roasted corn pudding, red pepper drizzle and mango aioli.
LC: Neeley loathes a bready binder in his crab cakes–even panko crumbs don’t pass muster in his lump meat filled crab cakes. Solution: A scant amount of fresh bread whirled around in a robot-coupe until fine soft crumbs develop coupled with and a dash of Wondra.. Yes, Wondra, the very same flour substitute your mama uses every Thanksgiving to thicken her giblet gravy … retro brilliant! Topped with a roasted garlic aioli, enlivened with a reduction of mango pulp, and you have a summery take on a classic.  

Gazpacho ($10) with fresh crab and truffle scented vine ripened tomatoes.
LC: Don’t be deceived, this fresh liquid-like version (versus chunky salad like concoctions) thickens as you pull spoonful after spoonful of the crab salad bound with anchovy mayonnaise through it. I applaud the kitchen’s subtle use of truffle oil too, that’s not an ingredient you want to be heavy handed about.  

Caprese Salad ($12) with pear tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, smoked balsamic drizzle.
LC: What a highlight, not to mention a beautiful surprise. Tiny yellow and red pear tomatoes split lengthwise tossed with small orbs of fresh mozzarella cheese and paper thin red onion slices are bathed briefly in a lively balsamic vinaigrette–divine. Perfection was when Neeley topped it with fried basil leaves and bordered it all with a thin “wall” of seasoned Italian bread. Every component was tastefully done—and I mean that in the most literal of ways.  

Sautéed Sea Scallops ($29) with sweet potato and parsnip mash, cippolinni onions, vanilla bean beurre blanc.
LC: This is a chef who plays with yin and yang of balancing sweet and savory components in a dish. If you don’t recognize it, the vanilla bean is tres Francais– quite a classic seafood pairing, especially when you swirl black fragrant vanilla beans in a beurre blanc, you can’t get more classic than that! While the parsnip addition to the sweet potato mash balances the potato’s concentrated sweetness beautifully.  

Grilled halibut ($32) with green chili mashers, smoked garlic, chipolte beurre blanc.
LC: Can I pick favorites? This dish wins… though it’s a tight race. The halibut is incomparably moist and deftly seasoned, while the smooth as silk mash potatoes have a nice kick care of fresh green chilis and a lap of earthy chipolte butter sauce atop.  

Chocolate and Coffee Braised Short Ribs ($30) with sweet corn grits, baby leeks, crumbled blue cheese.
LC: Made with love, this 12 hour braised rib dish is a great option for the guy who needs his meat and potatoes, but craves a change from a grilled ribeye. The hit of dark chocolate and douse of coffee gives this dish a depth of flavor and richness too.