Call it experience or merely
sheer luck, I’ve been told I have a knack for ordering well. Who knew? Nearly
any sort of restaurant will suffice, after all, I’m a very democratic diner and
there’s very little I won’t try. Friends frequently ask me to order for them to
circumvent the tragic “food envy” syndrome that may otherwise ensue when my
appetizer/entrée/dessert arrives appearing more appealing than theirs.
Pressure! To that end I’m ordering at restaurants in Houston and beyond and
listing my top dish picks here, adding more as I happen upon them one meal at a
time.
RDG/Bar Annie
App: Baked potato fritters
with bacon cheddar and chive dip ($10). Piping hot they’re better than almost
any French fry. Moist and fluffy inside like a loaded baked potato with a
crisp, thin exquisitely fried shell.
Entrée: Wood grilled rib-eye
with smoked cheddar steak sauce and slow cooked onions ($40). Of course, I
can’t possibly eat the entire portion, but I’m a sucker for slow cooked onions
and steak. Throw on cheddar cheese sauce and it’s like an upscale Philly cheese
steak minus the hoagie. Brilliant.
Dessert: Chocolate sundae
with crumbled brownies and marshmallow cream ($10). (And I’m not even a big
chocolate ice cream fan. Share it with someone you’re sweet on.)
Eddie V’s Prime Seafood
App: Oysters. No ordinary
bivalves, their North American tasting (market price) brings you chilly, briny
creatures that range from a subtle sweetness to a sea salt infused raw creature
plucked and shucked from the coldest waters on this continent.
Entrée: Sea bass in a butter
broth (market price). Not nearly as rich as it sounds, it’s a perfectly cooked,
moist filet with a thin, crisp, pan-fried edge. If it’s not on the menu try
their lemon-scented broth version.
Dessert: Bananas Foster. I
confess normally I’m not drawn to this sautéed banana concoction set ablaze
tableside, but slip a decadent disc of butter cake beneath it and a scoop of
Amy’s butter pecan ice cream beside it and despite the hokey theatrics (yup, flambé)
this dessert made me swoon.
Straits at the Hotel
Sorella
Apps: It’s a tie between the
Roti Prata ($7), warm griddled Indian flatbread with a curry dipping sauce and
their chicken lollipops ($10), crispy fried chicken wings with a sweet and
spicy citrus glaze.
Entrée: Black pepper crab,
to date it’s the best entrée on the menu I’ve tasted. One caveat: Its served in
its hard shell. Solution: Put on a sweet smile and ask the waiter really nicely
to request the kitchen remove the meat for you in the kitchen, or you’ll have
one big pepper spiked mess on your hands—literally.
Dessert: Cheesecake
lollipops. Small, easy sharing plate when you just can’t face devouring a
portion of anything larger.
III Forks Steakhouse
Apps: The seafood medley
($13.95) teases you with Lilliputian tastes such as a two bite-sized crabcake,
a succulent bacon wrapped sea scallop and two jumbo shrimp: one dipped in a
ketchup based cocktail sauce the other a spicy remoulade. Order the signature
III Forks salad ($8.95) spiked with goat cheese and pecans and I could call the
whole combo a meal.
Entrée: It’s prime grade
steak any way you want it. (I prefer a marbled ribeye medium rare: fat equals
flavor after all.) But the real stars are the superlative sides (all $6.95).
Off-the-cob cream corn tastes exactly like its name implies, while the creamed
spinach hints at the fresh, flat leaf variety wilted á la minute in the heat of a hot pan finished with a light cream
sauce instead of the minced mess many others serve up under a broiled cheese
cover. Don’t forget the six-cheese potatoes: a gratin of thinly sliced potatoes
in a perfectly cooked custard concoction of half a dozen fine melting cheeses.
17 at The Alden Hotel
App: Ask for the
off-the-menu app: bangers and mash ($12). It’s a wild boar sausage with celery
root puree and roasted red radishes. It will bring out the Brit in you.
Entrée: The deconstructed
beef Wellington ($32). Essentially all the elements of the classic French dish
only each ingredient from the mushroom duxelle (not so traditional here (absent
is the tiny dice of mushrooms for a larger fungi bite), a rich bordelaise
sauce, seared foie gras and medium rare beef filet. Although I adore the idea
of beef Wellington, the dish has
some inherent cooking flaws. By separating its core tastes this young chef has
hit upon a brilliant reinvention of an old favorite.
Dessert: The hazelnut goat
cheesecake with fresh figs. Halfway between a not-too-sweet dessert and a
cheese course.
Haven
App: Shrimp corn dogs with
Tabasco mash remoulade served with a tiny glass of Meyer lemonade ($13.50). As
fun as it sounds and thoughtful too, the Tabasco mash is the Avery Island spicy
pepper relish concoction the famous sauce was once steeped in.
Entrée: Free-range chicken
with bacon spaetzle and crispy brussel sprout leaves ($22). Who doesn’t love
roast chicken when it’s done well? Throw on some spaeztle (that marvelous
German/Austrian/Swiss noodle) and it’s over, I have to try the dish.
Dessert: Buttermilk pecan
pie ($8). I’m crazy about tangy buttermilk pie, a classic Southern sweet
staple. Add pecans and you have a textural element without the often cloying
sweetness of a traditional pecan pie. Lovely.
Branch Water Tavern
Snack: When I’m in the mood
to graze around a menu, lately this is where I head. I’d start with the crispy
pork cracklins ($3) Airy, not greasy, don’t think too hard about it just order
a good cold artisan beer with them and enjoy.
App: Charcuterie with, as
they write, “Too many garnishes to list.” ($12). It’s all homemade–from rough
terrines and finely textured pates to the mustards and pickled vegetables
served alongside. Don’t miss it.
Entrée: Slow roasted salmon
with green lentils (Puy I presume), root vegetables and grain mustard jus ($19).
Dessert: Tough one, I’m torn
between the gooey peanut butter and chocolate fondant ($6), a diminutive cake
with dulce de leche spread smeared to the side and the ice cream. Or the crème
fraiche cheesecake ($6) topped with a changing assortment of fruits. The day I
tried it (and raved) it was topped with a pear poached with hibiscus and red
wine.