I’ve never been a huge fan
of Starbucks, although I certainly credit them for single-handedly upping our
collective appreciation for a breadth of coffee drinks, personalized to one’s
particular (albeit, even peculiar) tastes. No, when it comes to coffee I really
dig the homegrown, yet slightly more upscale joints where equal thought is
given to ambiance, food (particularly baked goods) and, of course, a well-made
shot of espresso.
Café Rosé (as in the blush wine) is Alex Brennan-Martin’s
small, casual counterpart to the new Bistro Alex upstairs, as well as adjacent
to the new Hotel Sorella in City Centre. I slipped in recently and
caught up with Alex, his new chefs and management team there and was impressed
by the quick and tasty breakfast, lunch and light dinner fare, but was
positively wowed by the baristas behind the coffee bar.
Serving up Illy coffee
drinks, you can tell this gang is having fun steaming, frothing and layering
coffee concoctions that taste as good as they look. (How many places can brag
they can do that?) Slip in any day of the week and sip a vanilla or mocha
frappe, a delicate balance of volumes from milk to cream to coffee and
flavor-spiked syrups served in a conical glass.
If you’re still taking baby
steps towards downing a straight shot of espresso, why not nurse a marroccino
caldo instead? (A shot glass of Illy espresso atop a ring of chocolate sauce
topped with foamed milk that’s been dusted with a cocoa design.) No sugar
needed, look, stir, and then appreciatively savor. Wander in after dark and try
a shot of Patron tequila mixed with coffee liqueur–heated–and topped with a
frothy topping of whole milk. Mexican Irish coffee? They promise me its really
good. Who knows? Of course, as the name suggested Café Rosé serves a lot more
than just great coffee drinks, but stocks a respectable array of wines by the
glass too.
Café Rose, 800 W. Sam
Houston Parkway, 713.827.3545, www.bistroalex.com