Paper City Article

The Cult of the Bean

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 06:44:24 GMT

The next time you order an après java at Indika, Kiran’s or The Inn at Dos Brisas — the sort of smooth, rich coffee that inspires you to sit up and take notice — you might want to thank “Portland, Oregon–style” master roaster Ken Palmer, who was lured to local artisan coffee company Java Pura.

This innovative brand was established by owners Richard Colt and Fielding Cocke in 2007. Besides importing green beans and roasting them in small batches, they set out to do something almost unheard of four years ago: stamp each freshly roasted bag with a “roasted on” date, with the recommendation that no coffee be purchased more than 10 days after that date — a feat the big guys in the coffee industry couldn’t dream of doing. Combing the world’s finest coffee-growing regions, the Java Pura team works directly with farmers who nurture their beans from harvest to washing (how the bean is washed and dried contributes to the depth of its character) and aims never to over- or under-roast their green coffee beans. “Going dark,” Colt says, “disguises the nuances of the bean.” While most ordinary coffee roasters air-roast their beans, Java Pura — like many micro-roasters — prefers to drum-roast. This method enables a small-scale roaster to ramp up the temperature and create more variables of heat.

The shelf life for green, unroasted beans is one to two years; after that, Colt says, they start taking on the aroma of the burlap sack they’re packaged in. His company insists the shelf life of Java Pura roasted beans is two to three weeks, max. “The wonderful aroma you smell is actually the flavor disappearing from the beans,” he confides.

At Central Market, the indie roaster’s largest retailer, none of Java Pura’s roasted beans stay on the shelf more than one week. Hence, the “roasted on” date. Taste the beans brewed day one to seven, and you’ll perceive the coffee’s bright acids; after a week, those acids come down, and you’ll enjoy a smoother brew and a picture of the coffee’s true flavor profile. “Ideally the peak day, in terms of prime taste, is five days after the coffee’s been roasted,” says Cocke. The Main Street Ministriesis the happy recipient of much of Java Pura’s “largesse” — beans roasted longer than two weeks ago, which are habitually removed from retail shelves.

Happening upon the right beans isn’t a guessing game. The coffee-picking season runs from December to March; farmers send samples when the buying season commences, and the Java Pura gang gets together to “cup” nearly 25 varieties a week to determine what they’ll buy. Cupping, a systematic way to evaluate a variety of beans, is the means to that end. Using a sample roaster, which can roast a small quantity of beans, they conduct two samplings of the same bean side by side. That way, if there’s a bad bean in the batch, it won’t ruin both samples.

First, they put the dry grounds to the smell test by taking several short, staccato-like sniffs, tapping the side of the cup to release the aroma. Next, the team judges the wet aroma by adding hot water (201°F to 204°F) and letting the grounds steep for four minutes. After a couple of minutes, a crust or cap forms on the top. With the back of a spoon, they break the cap and inhale deeply to catch that first aroma blast. Pulling off the cap, they slurp the brew noisily, attempting to vaporize about a teaspoon over their taste buds, washing it all around their mouths. Last, when the coffee is tepid, they taste it again, as this is when nuances are revealed that might not otherwise
be detected.

The Brewing Business with Chris Cusack: Lucky Number 15

Since Chris Cusack only opened his raved-about restaurant and coffeehouse Down House in the Heights this past summer, he’s considered the newbie coffee guy in town. However, this Houston native actually made a name for himself in Austin, where he owns Thunderbird Coffee. Cusack is so passionate about the bean that he actually teaches a coffee palate-training course with David Buehrer, owner of Houston’s Greenway Coffee and Tea, in his spare time.

Eager for schooling, I enrolled in an abridged tutorial and learned that a lot of coffeehouses focus on finding a signature single-origin coffee. “What you ideally want to do as a coffee roaster,” Cusack says, “is to create a flavor profile which, despite the seasonal changes that happen with a naturally produced product, creates a flavor that remains consistent to the profile they’re aiming to create.”

Superstitious? In the world of coffee, whether you’re a farmer, roaster or barista, the number 15 has great significance. As Cusack instructs:

• Fifteen months is the length of time it takes to harvest from seed to green bean.

• Fifteen weeks is the length of time you’ll have from the day a bean is picked until it should be roasted.

• Fifteen is the magic number of days, many contend, that you have to enjoy a cup of coffee from the day the beans were roasted.

How Would You Like Your Coffee?

Cusack teases that the evolution of a coffee drinker goes something like this: Novices start with a frothy, chilled concoction, something rather dessert-like — say, a mocha frappe. If they take a liking to it, they move on to a cappuccino. Perhaps drawn to the deep nuances of the mighty bean, they venture to try a macchiato (a shot of espresso “marked” with just a bit of steamed milk) or con panna (an espresso topped with a dollop of whipped cream.) Graduation for the coffee obsessed? Order an espresso (unsweetened, of course — nothing to mask the flavor of those beans) or an Americano (three ounces of hot water with two shots of espresso), straight.

Home Brew

Want to brew the perfect cup of coffee? Many contend the closest you can come at home is with a Chemex. Never heard of it? The Chemex was invented by a chemist in Germany, circa 1941, and looks like a contraption you’d find in a mad scientist’s laboratory, not in your Poggenpöhl kitchen, but it couldn’t be simpler to use:

• Pre-soak the filter to pull out the paper pulp flavor and simultaneously warm the glass vessel with hot water.

• Here’s the all-important ratio: 500 milliliters of hot water (200°F, brought to a boil then cooled momentarily) to 30 grams of medium-ground coffee — weigh for optimal results.

• Add the grounds to the moistened filter paper on top of the conical-shaped Chemex. Then add just a little water to saturate the grounds evenly.

• Soak for 30 seconds so the coffee “blooms,” then slowly add the remaining hot water to extract the flavor from the beans. Let the water pour through the grounds and into the vessel below.

• Discard the grounds, pour and enjoy.

With a French press, you get a fully emergent brewed coffee, where the grains are ground slightly coarser to release the flavor more fully. By using the Chemex (from $35, at chemexcoffeemaker.com), Cusack cautions, “Don’t be fooled: The taste is not weaker. It actually allows the drinker to brew one cup at a time and identify a full range of flavor nuances.” For those craving espresso, Cusack suggests the Mypressi Twist (from $169, at mypressi.com).

I Spy ... A Great Barista

The next time you order an espresso drink, play “I spy” and check out the barista’s handiwork behind the bar. Here’s what works and what simply won’t do when making a great espresso drink.

• Start with filtered water.

• Every restaurant should invest in the best beans available. Ask who is roasting their coffee. (If it’s out on the shelves, sometimes it will be stacked so you can see the “when roasted on” date.)

• Search for the brand name of the espresso machine. The Rolls-Royce is the La Marzocco FB80NP, an $18,000 machine with three heads for espresso brewing. Runners-up include Synesso and a vintage Faema.

• Make sure the machine and the space are immaculate. Search for the stainless-steel steam wand — you know, the one that they push hot steam through to warm, steam and froth a pitcher of milk. If it’s dirty, walk away. That brown crust is the telltale sign of an unkempt machine: Milk has been left on the wand, and the milk solids have “cooked” at the end of
it, browning every time they turn it on.

• Previously steamed milk should never be reheated. Ever.

• A coffee grinder is a separate machine; there isn’t a standard grind to suits all styles. The finest grinds are devoted to espresso, coarser for French Press. All coffee should be ground to order, while some grinders have an auto-doser to measure consistent shots. Watch the barista tap the coffee-brewing mechanism (porta-filter) with the dispensed coffee to settle it before it’s tamped. You don’t want to see excess coffee around the edge.

• Make sure the porta-filter is kept warm in the machine, not resting on the countertop. Ditto for the cups, which should be warming atop it.

• Tamping the grounds with a perfectly fitted lead weight is vital. The surface should be perfectly even to create an extremely flat, level-tamped top.

• It takes roughly 25 seconds for the espresso to brew a shot with a caramel-colored streak (crema) on top.

• The ideal brewing temperature is 195°F to 205°F.

Del Frisco's Grille

Wed, 14 Dec 2011 02:05:19 GMT

Keys to the Door: Del Frisco%26rsquo;s Restaurant Group chief executive officer Mark Medanksy, executive chef Aaron Henschen, general manager Sabrina Scully.
Playing Favorites: You%26rsquo;ve pored over a 16-ounce prime rib and a perfectly aged pinot noir in one of the quiet corner tables at Del Frisco%26rsquo;s Double Eagle Steak House. Now allow us to introduce you to the eatery%26rsquo;s less-formal sibling %26mdash; think less Niles and Frasier Crane and more MaryKate and Ashley Olsen. The second-ever Del Frisco%26rsquo;s Grille has oh-so-coolly consumed 8,300 square feet and two levels within the newly spruced 15-story office tower at One McKinney Plaza at Hall Street. (The first Grille opened earlier this year in New York%26rsquo;s Rockefeller Center.) When you go, expect air kisses galore, as this lively, dual-bar spot caters to the social butterflies who just love to meet and greet. The must-try bites? Order the grilled ahi tuna tacos with a spicy citrus mayonnaise, then move on to one of Del Frisco%26rsquo;s hearty steaks. So the big question becomes: the groovier Grille or the sophisticated Steak House? It all depends on your mood %26mdash; but who doesn%26rsquo;t love a good sibling rivalry. 3232 McKinney Ave., 972.807.6152; delfriscosgrille.com.

Image: The grilled ahi tuna tacos with avocado and spicy citrus mayonnaise at Del Frisco%26rsquo;s Grille. Photo by Del Frisco%26rsquo;s Restaurant Group.

%26nbsp;

A Champagne Toast

Thu, 23 Dec 2010 12:53:16 GMT

When you%26rsquo;re searching for the perfect bottle of bubbly to pop %26mdash; something a little more special than your ordinary sparkling wine %26mdash; consider a chilly glass of Armand de Brignac champagne. $300 a bottle, at fine liquor stores.

Texas Tea

Mon, 26 Jul 2010 07:14:17 GMT

What do you get when you mix two entrepreneurial Texas boys, a thirst for fresh-brewed sweet tea and premium vodka? Deep Eddy Sweet Tea Vodka. Austinites Clayton Christopher (founder of the cult fave Sweet Leaf Tea) and Chad Auler (who created Savvy Vodka; his parents own Fall Creek Vineyards) have the know-how to trump iced-tea vodka wannabes who pump high-fructose syrup and artificial flavors into their spiked sweet-tea taste-alikes. Settling for nothing less than the real deal, this duo brews up black Indonesian whole-leaf tea, then sweetens it with Austin%26#8217;s Good Flow Honey and pure cane sugar from Sugar Land. They bottle their tea concentrate with a handmade vodka that%26#8217;s been distilled 10 times through a column still. The result, Deep Eddy, is named after the famed Austin swimming hole; a portion of the proceeds from each bottle sold helps keep the fresh spring pool going. Drink Deep Eddy Sweet Tea over ice with a splash of sparkling water, club soda or even Sprite. Or sip it like we do, as an Arnold Palmer with chilled lemonade. At $21 a bottle, expect to see pop-up parties all over the state as the guys set out to dominate the sweet-tea vodka market. At fine liquor stores.%26nbsp;

%26nbsp;

Images: Deep Eddy Sweet Tea Vodka. Clayton Christopher and Chad Auler. Photos by Chad Harlan.

11th Annual Spirit of Spring Luncheon %26 Fashion Show

Fri, 11 Jun 2010 04:53:52 GMT

A Scotch for the Rest of Us

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 05:36:34 GMT

Scotch whisky is admittedly an acquired taste. Once you move past the blended varieties, don%26#8217;t dive straight into the peaty, smoky single malts that might completely distract you from the subtlety this spirit can possess. Instead, savor Glenmorangie %26#8212; neat, on the rocks or with a splash. This is the sort of delicate yet complex spirit women can enjoy with a splash of club soda or ginger ale without feeling like they have to join the boys%26#8217; club. I%26#8217;m fascinated with how it%26#8217;s made (in swan-necked stills %26#8212; the tallest in all of Scotland, natch), so I recently sat down with master distiller Bill Lumsden, PhD. Understandably intrigued by every component behind the layered profile of Glenmorangie, this biochemist has concentrated his studies on wood finishing. That is to say, he%26#8217;s culled not only American Ozark oak barrels seasoned first with bourbon to age his whisky, but also worldly casks initially used to make fino sherry, claret, C%26#244;te de Nuits and Sauternes, and uses them to %26#8220;finish%26#8221; his wildly successful whisky experiments. His Nectar D%26#8217;Or bottling is matured for a couple of years, longer in the best Sauternes barrels (including those of the fabled Ch%26#226;teau d%26#8217;Yquem), giving this deep-golden-colored elixir notes of lemon and nectar. Years ago, Lumsden created Glenmorangie Margaux Cask Finish, a Scotch developed in the famous Ch%26#226;teau Margaux Bordeaux barrels. Now this pioneer of the barrel-finishing technique has created the Glenmorangie Sonnalta PX Private Collection. It grows up in first-fill bourbon casks (never before used for Scotch) then is transferred to former Pedro Xim%26#233;nez casks, which once held the sweetest of all Spanish sherries (think concentrated golden raisins). The syrupy remnants cling to the barrel to create a Scotch with sweet, citrus-y notes and a slight floral edge. Sip and savor. Sonnalta PX $80 a bottle, at fine liquor stores.

Sip and Savor

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 11:11:19 GMT

Admittedly Scotch whisky is an acquired taste. When you acquire it and move past the blended varieties (many of which are perfectly wonderful, mind you), yet before you dive into the heavier peaty, smoky single malts that might completely distract you from the subtly this spirit can possess, savor Glenmorangie.

Neat, on the rocks, with a splash, it%26#8217;s your choice.This is the sort of delicate, complex spirit women can call with a splash of good club soda or ginger ale and not feel like they have to be part of the boys club to enjoy it.

Fascinated with how it%26#8217;s made (in swan necked stills %26#8211; the tallest in all of Scotland, natch), I sat down with Glenmorangie%26#8217;s master distiller Dr. Bill Lumsden recently, learning the Dr. before his name designates a PhD in biochemistry. Understandably intrigued by every component that contributes to the layered profile of the storied brand, this scientist has concentrated his studies on wood finishing. That is to say, aside from the American Ozark oak barrels first used to age bourbon then used to rest his whisky in for a decade or so, this wine connoisseur has culled together exotic casks initially once used to make Fino Sherry, Claret, Cote de Nuits and Sauternes and used them to %26#8220;finish%26#8221; his wildly successful whisky experiments.

His Nectar D%26#8217;Or whisky bottling is extra matured for a couple years longer in the best Sauternes barrels, including those of the fabled Chateau D%26#8217;Yquem giving this deep golden-colored elixir, notes of lemon and nectar. While years prior, Lumsden created Glenmorangie Margaux Cask Finish, a scotch which was developed in the famous Chateaux Margaux Burgundy barrels. Now this pioneer of this barrel finishing technique has turned his attention to creating Glenmorangie Sonnalta PX Private Collection. After growing up in first-fill bourbon casks (never used prior for Scotch) the stuff is transferred to former ex-Pedro Ximenez casks which once held the sweetest of all Spanish sherries (think the taste of concentrated golden raisins) it%26#8217;s syrupy remnants clinging to the barrel which inevitably creates a scotch with sweet, citrusy notes and a slight floral edge. Sip and savor this soon to be collectors item yourself. $80 a bottle at fine liqueur stores.

Be True

Thu, 28 Jan 2010 11:21:30 GMT

Gone are the days when prosecco, that fizzy wine with an Italian accent, was only suitable to mix a so-so Bellini. This cousin to French champagne (made with a slightly different process %26#8212; the charmat method %26#8212; that distinguishes it from its Gallic relation) has been elevated to cult status. Looking to pop the cork on a new trend? Check out Houston-based Janco Beverages%26#8217; True sparkling ros%26#233; import, a pale pink sparkler made in Italy that%26#8217;s the real deal: Prosecco of Valdobbiadene. The lightly sweet bubbly is filled with stone-fruit flavors and is suitable to f%26#234;te a bride and groom, or perhaps that Valentine%26#8217;s Day t%26#234;te-a-t%26#234;te. $25 a bottle, at fine wine and liquor stores. Information truewine.com.

Red Room

Fri, 11 Dec 2009 05:21:07 GMT

2736 Virginia St.
713.520.5666
redroomhouston.com
Keys to the Door: Partners Beau Theriot, David Lewis, Trey Melcher and Brian Jordan; manager Brad Stearnes.

Serving Up: The space above the former Brownstone Restaurant has transitioned into a lipstick-red lounge, tucked away on Virginia Street off Westheimer. The Red Room is an intimate club for the well-heeled neighbors and social swells who might have mingled at New York%26#8217;s Pegu Club or London%26#8217;s Milk %26amp; Honey. Here, Beau Theriot (who owns the Brownstone Gallery) pulls off a vibrant, punchy decor with plush seating in sleeked rooms dotted with vintage Hollywood portraits. (Did we mention the airy patio?) Imbibe in classic cocktails such as a tweaked John Staub sidecar or John Hill Bloody Mary, the often-overlooked Pimm%26#8217;s Cup, Gimlet and even a Brandy Alexander, as well as light bites. Sip something softer? An edited list of wines mingles the likes of Husch Gewurtztraminer with Insignia. Host and preternaturally handsome Kalon McMahon (of the Texas State Optical Rogers family millions) and fearsomely suave doorman Daniel Green, an Australian Special Forces veteran with two tours of Iraq under his belt, sport intentionally intimidating coat and tie, and keep the crowd looking sharp. Friday and Saturday nights bring a DJ and occasional live music. Open Tuesday through Saturday, 6 pm to 2 am.

%26nbsp;

Photos by Daniel Ortiz

Off to Grandmother’s House We Go!

Wed, 02 Dec 2009 12:28:52 GMT

Over the river and through the woods, past heavy construction along I-45, it%26#8217;s off to grandmother%26#8217;s house we go! %26#8216;Tis the holidays, the time family and friends gather, drink too much eggnog and prepare the big feast. Here are some of our favorite food and drink picks to tote to grandmum%26#8217;s house.

Mom isn%26#8217;t much of a baker? Put her three steps ahead of scratch and let her whip up Cobblestone Kitchens Chocolate Caramel Cupcakes ($8), Anna Mae%26#8217;s Chocolate Cupcakes with Peppermint Icing from Robert Rothschild Farm ($9) or the Christmas Tree Dipped Cookie Kit by In The Mix ($11), all at Central Market. Decorate them with Crate %26amp; Barrel%26#8217;s Holiday Sanding Sugars/Decoratifs sweet set ($6, at Crate %26amp; Barrel). For the more adventurous, play Frank Lloyd Wright and bake your own Gingerhaus gingerbread house kit %26#8212; complete with blueprints for a structurally sound abode ($25, at Rice Epicurean Markets). Or go the ready-to-assemble route with Cobblestone Kitchen%26#8217;s Gingerbread House Kit with tons of candy and easy-to-mix-up royal icing ($16.50, at Central Market).

Now we know how those Scandinavians keep toasty through the chilly winter months: with Gl%26#246;gg, a festive, warm beverage spiced with cinnamon, cloves, cardamom and citrus. Try Grandpa Lundquist%26#8217;s version ($9, at Rice Epicurean Markets). It%26#8217;s a Hiball of a different sort %26#8212; this version is a 10-calorie, no-sugar, sparkling energy water with ginseng and B vitamins that will put the spring back in granny%26#8217;s step ($2), while Mash is water with a soda look, in flavors such as Lemon Peel Ginger Root and Grapefruit Citrus Zing ($2 each, all at Central Market, Spec%26#8217;s). Grandpa gussies up his gin with Fentiman%26#8217;s traditional tonic water fermented with herbal extracts and botanicals ($2, at Central Market, Spec%26#8217;s). Need something stronger? Hudson Ferus is a new American vodka made by two Texans with fresh Sierra Mountain water and distilled from corn ($17). Or maybe Granny %26#8212; or you %26#8212; could use a tequila shot. Milagro%26#8217;s limited-edition Silver Select Barrel Reserve goes down so smooth ($70). Or nurse a classic Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge ($50). The latter three at Spec%26#8217;s.

Indulge your hosts with delicious tokens of appreciation. Crate %26amp; Barrel%26#8217;s Sea Salt Caramels dipped in chocolate are even certified kosher ($20, at Crate %26amp; Barrel). Or try The Caramel Candy Co.%26#8217;s Pecan Caramel candies, made in small batches in Chappell Hill, Texas ($20 to $60, at Rice Epicurean Markets). Maybe she prefers dark chocolate? Who can turn away }the Barefoot Contessa%26#8217;s new Dark Chocolate Toffee ($15) and French bark ($17), both at stonewallkitchen.com? Splurge on something they might not treat themselves to: an exquisite 12-year-old balsamic vinegar from Modena, Italy ($30), paired with Marca Verde il Classico Extra-Virgin Olive Oil ($10), both at Sur La Table. Sorelle Nurzia%26#8217;s Panettone is a traditional Italian fruit-studded bread that%26#8217;s perfect for breakfast; try making French toast with it, too ($25, at Central Market).

Boil up some shrimp %26#8212; the easiest hors d%26#8217;oeuvre ever %26#8212; and put out Stonewall%26#8217;s new Lemon Dill or Tequila Lime Cocktail Sauce ($5).%26nbsp;Cradle a bit of p%26#226;t%26#233; or perhaps a dollop of gruy%26#232;re fondue in Chef Laurent%26#8217;s pastry spoons ($14). Craving something crisp and salty before dinner? Houston-made Uncle Shucker%26#8217;s Spicy Ranch Snack Crackers do the trick ($6, at Rice Epicurean Markets). Mary%26#8217;s Gone Crackers Sticks %26amp; Twigs are healthy, crunchy snacks made without wheat or gluten ($4.50), while Pop Chips take air-popped corn and form it into a dip-worthy chip ($3). Potato chips and onion rings don%26#8217;t have to be ordinary with Alexia%26#8217;s Waffle Fries and Onion Strips ($2.50 each). It%26#8217;s a Southern thing: We love those cheesy, savory, shortbread-like bites. Slice and bake your own fresh from the freezer with Mamie%26#8217;s Famous Cheese Wafers, made in Mobile ($9, at Rice Epicurean Markets). Holland%26#8217;s Beemster is aged 18 months for a complex depth of flavor ($14 a pound). Mourning the ban on imported raw-milk Vacherin? L%26#8217;Edel De Cleron, a pasteurized version, can fill the void ($21 a pound). This Vermont-made Grafton Village Cheddar is aged up to a whopping four years and gives you a whole new take on cheddar cheese ($19 a pound). It would be apropos to pair them with Earth %26amp; Vine%26#8217;s Provisions Apricot Chili Pepper Jam ($6, at Rice Epicurean Markets), Stonewall Kitchen%26#8217;s Apple Cranberry Chutney ($5) or Ficoco All Natural Fig and Cocoa Spread ($7). All at Central Market unless otherwise indicated.
Anyone charged with the task of cooking the holiday bird should consider shortcutting the work with Urban Accents Gourmet Gobbler Kit ($14). Step one, ensure that your bird doesn%26#8217;t dry out by presoaking it in a spiced salt brine; the next day, rinse and rub with olive oil and this smoky peppercorn rub. Easy, we promise. Serve with New England Cranberry%26#8217;s Cranberry Chutney ($7) or Texas Sweet Creations%26#8217; Cranberry Pineapple Pecan Relish ($5), all at Central Market. Or wow them with an impressive Niman Ranch crown roast of pork ($180 to $300, at williams-sonoma.com). Granny gave up canning peaches ages ago, but folksy Amish Wedding, an Ohio producer of old-fashioned jarred foodstuffs, hasn%26#8217;t ($8, at Rice Epicurean Markets). God bless granny, but she has nothing on Callie%26#8217;s Charleston Biscuits in buttermilk, ham, cheese and chive ($16, at Rice Epicurean Markets). Who can pass up mac n%26#8217; cheese? Better than boxed, these four come packed in heat-and-serve ramekins ($37, at williams-sonoma.com). Dessert%26#8217;s easy with La Donatella%26#8217;s imported tiramisu from Italy ($15, at Central Market). No assembly required %26#8212; simply plate and defrost straight from the freezer. Perhaps it%26#8217;s pie you crave? Bake one with Country Living%26#8217;s Classic Pumpkin Pie or County Fair Pecan Pie in a Jar ($12.50 each) with CL%26#8217;s flaky piecrust mix beneath ($10), both at Rice Epicurean Markets.

Let the grandparents sleep in; you%26#8217;re making everyone Daddy Cakes pancakes for breakfast ($11) or the Austin fave, Kerbey Lane Caf%26#233;%26#8217;s Gingerbread Pancake Mix ($6, at kerbylanecafe.com). Barefoot Contessa%26#8217;s Foolproof Popover mix ($5) is a cinch to make and bake. And popovers are especially yummy paired with Harvest Song%26#8217;s artisanal Wild Strawberry Preserves ($7). Or whip up some Merry Eggnog Muffins by Sticky Fingers Bakeries ($5). While granny likes a watered-down supermarket brew, we prefer a jolt of something stronger. Mokk%26#8230;a ($7.50) is one of the few good pre-ground dark roasts that aren%26#8217;t over-roasted. Forgoing coffee? Try Revolution%26#8217;s antioxidant rich Acai Green Tea ($5). Grandmother%26#8217;s remedy for nearly everything: honey. Cure all with a spoonful of The Hamptons Honey Company%26#8217;s raw and unfiltered Creamed Spring Blossom Honey in your tea. ($11). All at Central Market unless otherwise indicated.

Off to Grandmother’s House We Go!

Wed, 02 Dec 2009 02:36:28 GMT

Mom isn%26#8217;t much of a baker? Put her three steps ahead of scratch and let her whip up Cobblestone Kitchens Chocolate Caramel Cupcakes ($8), Anna Mae%26#8217;s Chocolate Cupcakes with Peppermint Icing from Robert Rothschild Farm ($9) or the Christmas Tree Dipped Cookie Kit by In The Mix ($11), all at Central Market. Decorate them with Crate %26amp; Barrel%26#8217;s Holiday Sanding Sugars/Decoratifs sweet set ($6, at Crate %26amp; Barrel). For the more adventurous, play Frank Lloyd Wright and bake your own Gingerhaus gingerbread house kit %26#8212; complete with blueprints for a structurally sound abode ($35, at surlatable.com). Or go the ready-to-assemble route with Cobblestone Kitchen%26#8217;s Gingerbread House Kit with tons of candy and easy-to-mix-up royal icing ($16.50, at Central Market).

Now we know how those Scandinavians keep toasty through the chilly winter months: with Gl%26#246;gg, a festive, warm beverage spiced with cinnamon, cloves, cardamom and citrus. Try Grandpa Lundquist%26#8217;s version ($11, at nordichouse.com). It%26#8217;s a Hiball of a different sort %26#8212; this version is a 10-calorie, no-sugar, sparkling energy water with ginseng and B vitamins that will put the spring back in granny%26#8217;s step ($2), while Mash is water with a soda look, in flavors such as Lemon Peel Ginger Root and Grapefruit Citrus Zing ($2 each, all at Central Market). Grandpa gussies up his gin with Fentiman%26#8217;s traditional tonic water fermented with herbal extracts and botanicals ($2, at Central Market). Need something stronger? Hudson Ferus is a new American vodka made by two Texans with fresh Sierra Mountain water and distilled from corn ($17). Or maybe Granny %26#8212; or you %26#8212; could use a tequila shot. Milagro%26#8217;s limited-edition Silver Select Barrel Reserve goes down so smooth ($70). Or nurse a classic Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge ($50). The latter three at fine liquor stores.

Indulge your hosts with delicious tokens of appreciation. Crate %26amp; Barrel%26#8217;s Sea Salt Caramels dipped in chocolate are even certified kosher ($20, at Crate %26amp; Barrel). Or try The Caramel Candy Co.%26#8217;s Pecan Caramel candies, made in small batches in Chappell Hill, Texas ($16 to $42, at caramelcandyco.com). Maybe she prefers dark chocolate? Who can turn away the Barefoot Contessa%26#8217;s new Dark Chocolate Toffee ($15) and French bark ($17), both at stonewallkitchen.com? Splurge on something they might not treat themselves to: an exquisite 12-year-old balsamic vinegar from Modena, Italy ($30), paired with Marca Verde il Classico Extra-Virgin Olive Oil ($10), both at Sur La Table. Sorelle Nurzia%26#8217;s Panettone is a traditional Italian fruit-studded bread that%26#8217;s perfect for breakfast; try making French toast with it, too ($25, at Central Market).

Boil up some shrimp %26#8212; the easiest hors d%26#8217;oeuvre ever %26#8212; and put out Stonewall%26#8217;s new Lemon Dill or Tequila Lime Cocktail Sauce ($5).%26nbsp;Cradle a bit of p%26#226;t%26#233; or perhaps a dollop of gruy%26#232;re fondue in Chef Laurent%26#8217;s pastry spoons ($14). Craving something crisp and salty before dinner? Mary%26#8217;s Gone Crackers Sticks %26amp; Twigs are healthy, crunchy snacks made without wheat or gluten ($4.50), while Pop Chips take air-popped corn and form it into a dip-worthy chip ($3). Potato chips and onion rings don%26#8217;t have to be ordinary with Alexia%26#8217;s Waffle Fries and Onion Strips ($2.50 each). It%26#8217;s a Southern thing: We love those cheesy, savory, shortbread-like bites. Slice and bake your own fresh from the freezer with Mamie%26#8217;s Famous Cheese Wafers, made in Mobile (three rolls $53, at mamieswafers.com). Holland%26#8217;s Beemster is aged 18 months for a complex depth of flavor ($14 a pound). Mourning the ban on imported raw-milk Vacherin? L%26#8217;Edel De Cleron, a pasteurized version, can fill the void ($21 a pound). This Vermont-made Grafton Village Cheddar is aged up to a whopping four years and gives you a whole new take on cheddar cheese ($19 a pound). It would be apropos to pair them with Earth %26amp; Vine%26#8217;s Provisions Apricot Chili Pepper Jam ($8, at earthnvine.com), Stonewall Kitchen%26#8217;s Apple Cranberry Chutney ($5) or Ficoco All Natural Fig and Cocoa Spread ($7). All at Central Market unless otherwise indicated.

Anyone charged with the task of cooking the holiday bird should consider shortcutting the work with Urban Accents Gourmet Gobbler Kit ($14). Step one, ensure that your bird doesn%26#8217;t dry out by presoaking it in a spiced salt brine; the next day, rinse and rub with olive oil and this smoky peppercorn rub. Easy, we promise. Serve with New England Cranberry%26#8217;s Cranberry Chutney ($7) or Texas Sweet Creations%26#8217; Cranberry Pineapple Pecan Relish ($5), all at Central Market. Or wow them with an impressive Niman Ranch crown roast of pork ($180 to $300, at williams-sonoma.com). Granny gave up canning peaches ages ago, but folksy Amish Wedding, an Ohio producer of old-fashioned jarred foodstuffs, hasn%26#8217;t ($4, at troyerscountrymarket.com). God bless granny, but she has nothing on Callie%26#8217;s Charleston Biscuits in buttermilk, ham, cheese and chive (two dozen $34 to $46, at calliesbiscuits.com). Who can pass up mac n%26#8217; cheese? Better than boxed, these four come packed in heat-and-serve ramekins ($37, at williams-sonoma.com). Dessert%26#8217;s easy with La Donatella%26#8217;s imported tiramisu from Italy ($15, at Central Market). No assembly required %26#8212; simply plate and defrost straight from the freezer. Perhaps it%26#8217;s pie you crave? Bake one with Country Living%26#8217;s Classic Pumpkin Pie or County Fair Pecan Pie in a Jar ($14 each) with CL%26#8217;s flaky piecrust mix beneath ($10), both at hfsfoods.com.

Let the grandparents sleep in; you%26#8217;re making everyone Daddy Cakes pancakes for breakfast ($11) or the Austin fave, Kerbey Lane Caf%26#233;%26#8217;s Gingerbread Pancake Mix ($6, at kerbylanecafe.com). Barefoot Contessa%26#8217;s Foolproof Popover mix ($5) is a cinch to make and bake. And popovers are especially yummy paired with Harvest Song%26#8217;s artisanal Wild Strawberry Preserves ($7). Or whip up some Merry Eggnog Muffins by Sticky Fingers Bakeries ($5). While granny likes a watered-down supermarket brew, we prefer a jolt of something stronger. Mokk%26#8230;a ($7.50) is one of the few good pre-ground dark roasts that aren%26#8217;t over-roasted. Forgoing coffee? Try Revolution%26#8217;s antioxidant rich Acai Green Tea ($5). Grandmother%26#8217;s remedy for nearly everything: honey. Cure all with a spoonful of The Hamptons Honey Company%26#8217;s raw and unfiltered Creamed Spring Blossom Honey in your tea. ($11). All at Central Market unless otherwise indicated.

SANTA%26#8217;S COCOA AND COOKIES%26#8216;Twas the night before Christmas, and all through the house, not a creature was stirring %26#8212; save for Aunt Tilda, who was surreptitiously whipping up some hot cocoa with BonJour%26#8217;s new Hot Chocolate Pot with frother attachment ($35, at bonjourproducts.com). Top with Mini Mighty Marshmallows double-dipped in a blend of milk and dark chocolates ($7, at Crate %26amp; Barrel) or stir with King Leo%26#8217;s chocolate-dipped peppermint sticks ($7, at Central Market). Ole Saint Nick would adore Walkers Pure Butter Shortbread, now in festive holiday shapes ($10, at Cost Plus World Market). Santa couldn%26#8217;t pass up these Snowman Brownie Pops, and neither could we ($37, at williams-sonoma.com). Speaking of snow, we adore these snowman-boxed shortbread and gingerbread cookies enrobed in white chocolate %26#8212; and we know the big guy will, too ($6, at Central Market).