Paper City Article

To Market We Go

Tue, 15 Dec 2009 04:27:48 GMT

After your next Saturday-morning visit to Starbucks in Highland Village, meander down the block to the covered structure next to Jos. A Banks and browse our city%26#8217;s newest market, the Highland Village Farmers Market. From 8 am to noon every Saturday, up to two dozen farmers convene here weekly to sell 100 percent organic, sustainable produce and foodstuffs. You%26#8217;ll find seasonal fruits and vegetables, plus a baker toting fresh baked bread, bars, cookies and pastries, and even a butcher procuring free-range beef, lamb, pork, goat, chicken and wild boar cuts, all displayed in wood slat stalls. There%26#8217;ll be farm-fresh eggs, naturally, and a crafty soap maker with all kinds of lotions and suds made with soothing goat%26#8217;s milk. The project is the brainchild of Highland Village Shopping Center owner Haidar Barbouti %26#8212; European fresh-air markets were his jumping-off point to create Houston%26#8217;s first permanent-structure farmers market.%26nbsp; 2706 Suffolk in Highland Village.

Triniti Restaurant + Bar

Wed, 01 Feb 2012 12:28:03 GMT

Keys to the Door: Chef/owner Ryan Hildebrand; director of operations/ sommelier Fred Zennati; designer Chung Nguyen, MC2 Architects

What%26rsquo;s Cooking: At Triniti, Houston rising star Ryan Hildebrand has brought together a triad of sweet and savory tastes, spiked with well-made spirits. Diners can watch Hildebrand and his colleagues %26mdash; chef de cuisine Jose Hernandez and chefs Greg Lowry and Matt Lovelace %26mdash; at work in their copper-tiled open kitchen while tasting inspired California-French concoctions. In a space that formerly hosted a plethora of unremarkable bars, designer Chung Nguyen has created a clean, contemporary environment with customized Tom Dixon lighting, antiqued old-school mirrors above the mod bar and a glorious wine library with rolling ladder %26mdash; handy to fetch those uncommon niche wines culled by sommelier Fred Zennati to share by the bottle or the glass. Look for dishes with inventive flavor combinations, such as the deconstructed Caesar salad with farm eggs, pancetta, lemon, olive, white anchovy, pecorino romano cheese and kale leaves in lieu of romaine ($11). One soup starter features a clear veal consomm%26eacute; bobbing with leeks, trumpet mushrooms and shaved wagyu beef, and topped by an unctuous foie gras dumpling ($11). Evidently Hildebrand is a fan of the fattened duck liver, as he%26rsquo;s also created a novel assemblage called foie gras breakfast ($19) %26mdash; a yummy play on the traditional morning meal of%26nbsp; French toast, bacon and egg. His entrees, while not as playful as his starters, feature a protein (some picks: salmon, striped bass, pork, rib-eye, pheasant and sirloin) and seasonal go-withs, such as pumpkin, parsley and yam pur%26eacute;e smeared atop the pork plate, or adzuki beans boiled then fried crisp with saffron rutabaga, shallots, bok choy and red wine beneath the striped bass. Entrees range from $18 to $39, with sweet endings $8 each. 2815 S. Shepherd, 713.527.9090; trinitirestaurant.com.

Image: Triniti Restaurant + Bar. Photo by Kimberly Park/

Study Skills

Wed, 01 Feb 2012 12:19:28 GMT

Once my child passed sixth grade, I am loath to admit, I really couldn%26rsquo;t help him with homework. Who has ever heard of Chicago Math. And Algebra II? Forget it. I am now addicted to the recently opened Study Lounge in West University Village. President Shelby Joe, who began General Academic in 2003, and VP Stephen Hayes, both Rice School grads, have created a teen-approved, coffee-shop-like space with study areas, kitchen and private conference rooms. Most of the 40-plus tutors who man the Lounge are Rice undergrads and grads. Simply walk in, and your child will be checked in, and tutors make sure he or she works through an agenda. Mom pays by the day or month or opts for an unlimited subscription. General Academic has been a go-to for in-home tutoring for eight years, and the Lounge offers day-to-day tutoring, as well as intensive skills assessment and ISEE, SAT and ACT prep classes limited to eight students (which my son just completed), as well as foreign language and creative writing workshops. Finals will be here before you know it. Open Sunday through Thursday, 4 to 9 pm, and Saturday, noon to 5 pm. 2339 University Blvd. above Berripop, 713.893.8453; shelby.joe@generalacademic.com; generalacademic.com.

Image: Stephen Hayes and Shelby Joe. Photo by Kennon Evett.

Liberty Kitchen %26 Oyster Bar

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 02:29:39 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner/operators Lee Ellis and Carl Eaves; chef Lance Fegen.
What%26rsquo;s Cooking: In what was once a beauty shop at the corner of 11th and Studewood, Lee Ellis and Carl Eaves, working with chef/partner Lance Fegen, have conjured Liberty Kitchen %26amp; Oyster Bar. The interior is clad with reclaimed shiplap along with cement floors and charming presidential memorabilia, from turn-of-the-century portraits of George Washington, Abraham Lincoln and Lady Liberty herself at the entrance to a wink at Ronald Reagan on the drinks menu. Whether you%26rsquo;re seated in an old schoolhouse chair, a cozy booth, or mingling with friends and strangers alike in one of two communal tables, order up a cocktail, and you can choose from small-batch or Texas-made tipple, including Liberty%26rsquo;s own eponymous light or dark brew, by Houston beer brewery Karbach. Fegen %26mdash;%26nbsp;who describes his casual eatery%26rsquo;s fare as American comfort food with a heavy reliance on seafood grilled on their peach wood and Mexican-charcoal-fired grill %26mdash; cleverly employs techniques inspired by America%26rsquo;s rich coastal cuisines to set his expansive menu apart. Liberty serves lunch and dinner, as well as breakfast on the weekends; we suggest you come with a crowd. Start with appetizers such as deviled eggs topped with bacon and whole fried oysters ($8), which is sure to induce a fork fight for the last bite, or charcoal hot smoked salmon ($8), a whole salmon split, nailed to a cedar plank and propped vertically above the grill to slowly soak in the updraft of peach-wood smoke, candying its spiced exterior. Flake a few tender pieces onto soft bread with a smear of smoked salt butter, and enjoy. Hearty burgers and sandwiches vary from sliders to a sophisticated tuna melt made with a fresh fillet atop an old-school toasted English muffin. Grilled entrees %26mdash; separated into Swimmers (fish/seafood) and Runners (steak, pork, chicken) %26mdash; include tender Hollywood pork ribs with apple-cider-mustard glaze ($19) and Alabama catfish ($16). All the entrees come with sides such as creamy malt slaw and, our fave, grilled asparagus with bacon jam ($2.50 extra). And don%26rsquo;t you dare leave without a bite of Fegen%26rsquo;s warm white-chocolate bread pudding with deep, rich caramel sauce and whipped cream ($7.50). 1050 Studewood, 713.802.0533; libertykitchenoysterbar.com.

Images: Liberty Kitchen %26amp; Oyster Bar. Photos by Jenny Antill.

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The Bird %26 The Bear: Ouisie's American Bistro

Mon, 12 Dec 2011 06:10:40 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners Elouise %26ldquo;Ouisie%26rdquo; Adams Jones and GM Wafi Dinari.
What%26rsquo;s Cooking: It%26rsquo;s been 18 years since Elouise Adams Jones reopened her much-loved eatery Ouisie%26rsquo;s Table. She%26rsquo;d toyed with the idea of retiring, but it looks like Jones is putting off those plans long enough to nurture a less expensive, casual bistro she%26rsquo;s playfully dubbed The Bird %26amp; The Bear. Inspired by the bluebirds that flock about her country retreat and the mythical idea of the traveling bear (which, to Jones, connotes adventure %26mdash; particularly on the plate), she and her longtime Ouisie%26rsquo;s GM set off to create a spot where you can enjoy lunch and dinner, graze in the late afternoon and nibble tapas-style late night on the weekends. In a dramatic space designed with Alsey Newton, with chandeliers and even a few chairs dangling overhead, you%26rsquo;re invited to take a seat on the tufted saffron-colored banquette. While a handful of dishes carry over from Ouisie%26rsquo;s Table, the menu pulls from both Jones%26rsquo; Southern roots and Dinari%26rsquo;s Moroccan heritage. Starters include the vuelve a la vida (%26ldquo;return to life%26rdquo;) seafood cocktail with an easy-to-like tomato-based, spiced white-wine sauce made down-to-earth with Saltines ($7), and a refreshing mango salad with avocado over tender butter lettuce, dressed in a white balsamic vinaigrette ($7). Venturing to entrees, there%26rsquo;s an array of options in the vegetarian, poultry, seafood and meat categories, heavy on the latter. We tried (and devoured) the curiously named Damn Eggplant, essentially an eggplant casserole topped with crab meat, oysters and shrimp that Jones%26rsquo; grandmother used to make; along the way, it gained the moniker because no one could make it as well as she did ($26). Fans of quail should try this herb-crusted version with creamy polenta ($24), while those with a taste for a tajine can partake in Ouisie%26rsquo;s version, made with beef shank ($24). 2810 Westheimer Road, 713.528.2473; thebirdandthebearbistro.com.

Images: Photos by Shannon O'Hara.

The Capitol at St. Germain

Wed, 14 Dec 2011 12:30:38 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners Randy Fertitta and John Nguyen; executive chef Kevin Bryant; general manager James Gicas.

What%26rsquo;s on the Menu: Remember Zula, that extravagant Las Vegas%26ndash;looking restaurant on the ground floor of the historic 1913 Kress building (aka the St. Germain lofts) downtown? Stroll through those double doors today, and you won%26rsquo;t recognize the place. Renamed The Capitol at St. Germain, the venue has been re-conceptualized as an entertaining and dining destination where you can drop in for a drink and small bites, both sweet and savory, nearly any time of day, as well as lunch and dinner. (Time it right, and you can even catch some live music.) Playing up another theme %26mdash; America in the 1920s %26mdash; waiters wear garters on their biceps, while the hostesses flaunt flapper dresses. The black-and-white decor features a two-story dining room (the mezzanine level, often cordoned off for private soir%26eacute;es, grants you a bird%26rsquo;s-eye view of the stage below, where musicians play everything from R%26amp;B to bluegrass) and a separate bar and reserved premium seating in the elevated Vintage Lounge downstairs. Singer George Strait%26rsquo;s former personal chef, Kevin Bryant, has been recruited to man the range; this alum of Tony%26rsquo;s held myriad positions within the Vallone empire before hitting the road with the Straits. Bryant%26rsquo;s inspired tastes at dinner include M%26eacute;nage a Fois, a shared-bite dish with a foie gras trio cleverly interpreted on the plate ($14); Niman Ranch pork with redneck cheddar polenta, roasted root vegetables and golden pear chutney ($18); and the Big Meat Pizza with prosciutto, capicola and pepperoni ($13). 705B Main St., 713.492.2454; thecapitolhouston.com.

Image: The Capitol at St. Germain. Photo by Jack Thompson.

Local Foods

Wed, 14 Dec 2011 12:28:35 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Benjy Levit; chef/partner Dylan Murray.

What%26rsquo;s Cooking: Sixteen years ago, Benjy%26rsquo;s Restaurant ingratiated itself into Rice Village and gained a loyal following of diners from near and far. Now owner Benjy Levit, always spot-on-trend, has expanded next door to the space vacated by Antoine%26rsquo;s Import Company, to create an entirely new casual, walk-up counter concept. Local Foods, much like its hip sibling, procures ingredients for crave-worthy sandwiches, salads and bites from local farmers and community artisans who craft all manner of food and beverage, from cheese to olive oil, beer to bread, many of which are packaged to bring home, too. Open and airy, the prep area behind the gleaming counters and glass cases (which are filled with bowls of tasty sides such as Tuscan kale tossed with pine nuts and raisins, Israeli couscous and Asian cabbage slaw) features sparkling white tile, laid old-school market-style. The design-minded Levit tapped Found co-owner Aaron Rambo to help source vintage pieces as well, such as a neon sign that spells out L-O-C-A-L, and set the interior stage for a concept that will have you scheming to come back soon and dive into dishes such as truffled-egg salad sandwich on a pretzel roll and house-made pastrami with caraway sauerkraut, homemade potato chips and sweet endings baked by Levit%26rsquo;s adoring mom. 2424 Dunstan Road in Rice Village, 713.521.7800; houstonlocalfoods.com.

Image: Local Foods. Photo by Jack Thompson.

Phoenicia Specialty Foods

Wed, 14 Dec 2011 12:24:04 GMT

Keys to the Door: Co-owners Bob and Arpi Tcholakian, Haig Tcholakian, Ann-Marie Tcholakian, Raffi Tcholakian; executive chef Jason Jones; pastry chef Don Woleslagle; GM Adrienne Brown-Franklin.%26nbsp;

What%26rsquo;s Cooking: What%26rsquo;s 28,000 square feet and boasts 10,000 products culled from 50 countries on its shelves? It%26rsquo;s the new Phoenicia Specialty Foods emporium, just across the street from Discovery Green. Addressing more than the dire need for groceries by residents living amidst our urban cityscape downtown, this sprawling store features a sandwich station, salad bar, bakery, in-store cooking demos and even a restaurant dubbed MKT Bar that serves pizzas, inspired entrees, gelatos and pastries. This Mecca was created by the food-savvy Tcholakian family. Bob and Arpi Tcholakian, Armenian immigrants from Lebanon, opened Phoenicia Deli on Beltway 8 and Westheimer Road in 1983. In short order, that humble deli led to the opening of their spectacular 55,000-square-foot international market, just across the street, in 2006. Here at the family%26rsquo;s new inside-the-loop branch, you%26rsquo;ll find astonishing gastronomic wonders, such as a 25-foot olive bar and a 150-foot conveyor belt designed to transport freshly baked pita bread direct from the ovens in the second-floor bakery to customers eagerly awaiting them downstairs. Don%26rsquo;t live or work downtown? Don%26rsquo;t let the parking situation daunt you %26mdash; there are gratis spots on-site in the garage. One Park Place, 1001 Austin St. (between McKinney and Lamar), 832.360.2222; yumstop.com.

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Pho Colonial Authentic Vietnamese Diner

Wed, 14 Dec 2011 01:59:51 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Khanh Dao, chef Phat Tran.
Food Pho Thought: When it comes to those sipped-too-much-Dom-last-night woozies the morning after, we%26rsquo;ve tried everything: raw-egg concoctions, Alka Seltzer, Bloody Marys. But it%26rsquo;s a certain culinary import %26mdash; pho %26ldquo;hangover%26rdquo; soup %26mdash; from Vietnam that we are suddenly in love with the most. We%26rsquo;re in luck: There%26rsquo;s a recently opened downtown eatery named after said consomm%26eacute;, Pho Colonial Authentic Vietnamese Diner, and it is already garnering quite the tasty reputation. The specialty here? Indeed, it%26rsquo;s that steamy, broth-y pho soup, packed with vegetable roots and dried spices, then augmented with chicken or beef, even rare tenderloin %26mdash; no wonder it%26rsquo;s an urban-legend cure for anything that ails you. This spot, the second Pho Colonial location from restaurateur Khanh Dao of Steel Restaurant and Lounge, is in The Wilson Building at Stanley Marcus Square, and boasts an urbane, downtown style. The decor has taken on a more modern vibe than Dao%26rsquo;s North Dallas location, with a minimalist interior by designer Hatsumi Kuzuu (she%26rsquo;s behind Tei-An%26rsquo;s superchic look), a sleek patio and Vespa-friendly parking spots that speak to those city-dwelling gourmands. As for the menu, it%26rsquo;s loaded with traditional Vietnamese fare, from beef citrus carpaccio to sate-chili shrimp to grilled Vietnamese sandwiches called B%26aacute;nh m%26igrave;, served unexpectedly on crusty French baguettes. We%26rsquo;ll certainly be seeing you here %26mdash; the morning after, of course. 1623 Main St., Suite 102 214.748.0746; phocolonial.com.

Image: The Bun Thit Nuong with pork and rice-vermicelli noodles, at Pho Colonial Authentic Vietnamese Diner. Photo by Cindy Wilkerson.

Fernando's Mexican Cuisine

Wed, 14 Dec 2011 02:17:05 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Fernando Padilla.
Tex-Mex, Times Two: Ask Fernando Padilla why he would open two namesake restaurants and he%26rsquo;ll credit Il Sorrento %26mdash; the legendary, now-torn-down Italian establishment from Mario Messina, where Padilla spent 12 years as ma%26icirc;tre d%26rsquo; then general manager. %26ldquo;It%26rsquo;s a simple formula that I learned from Messina,%26rdquo; he says. %26ldquo;Offer great food in a great atmosphere.%26rdquo; And does he ever. Inside the second Fernando%26rsquo;s Mexican Cuisine, at the Travis Walk compound in Knox-Henderson (the first sits at Northwest Highway and Midway Road), you%26rsquo;ll find a clean, refined design. We love its slate tiles scaling the walls; all the contemporary art and sculpture from local artists; the airy feel and ample bar and lounge; even the exposed ductwork %26mdash; all courtesy of interior designer (and Padilla%26rsquo;s wife) Anne Padilla. As for the eats, sample one of the classic Tex-Mex dishes from the first Fernando%26rsquo;s, such as the brisket tacos with jack cheese, grilled onions and molcajete sauce. Craving more of a Mexico City flavor? Order up the camarones Coyoac%26aacute;n, a dish of jumbo shrimp stuffed with crabmeat. To wash it all down, summon a splash of tequila from the extensive (and we%26rsquo;d say exceptionally informative) tequila list, or ask for this low-cal libation: The Anita Margarita, with fresh squeezed lime juice, tequila and triple sec, named using the Spanish word for someone very special to Mr. Padilla (and his favorite interior designer): his wife, Anne. 4514 Travis St., 214.521.8600; fernandosmexicancuisine.com.

Image: Fernando%26rsquo;s Mexican Cuisine, at Travis Walk. Photo by Marty Perlman.

Convivio

Mon, 12 Dec 2011 06:12:19 GMT

Keys to the Door: Managing partner Oscar Aguilar and partner Marta Vina; chef Emilio Chavez.
What%26rsquo;s Cooking: Sometimes you%26rsquo;d rather graze through a meal, feasting on a delectable array of small bites, rather than commit to a full entree. When that mood hits, think tapas. Doing as they do in Spain (Vina was born there, as were Aguilar%26rsquo;s parents), Oscar Aguilar, who also owns Decco Caf%26eacute; in the Decorative Center Houston, and partner Marta Vina are bringing that concept to a locale off Washington Avenue. Convivio %26mdash; which is Spanish for %26ldquo;get together,%26rdquo; as emblazoned on the back of the company tees %26mdash; invites diners to take a seat at one of three long, rough-hewn wooden communal tables (in the spirit of those Spanish zinc-topped tapas bars) and commune with neighbors and strangers alike. Of course, there are also multiple tables for two or four you can have all to yourself, complete with a twig-like stand to hang your bag. Study the daily changing menu and munch on Spanish-inspired bites such as croquetas de gambas with a light aioli foam ($12 for a half-dozen filo-wrapped shrimp); traditional tortilla de patatas ($6) made with Vidalia onions ($6); croquetas de chorizo ($7); and the famed jamon iberico, aka the world%26rsquo;s finest, priciest ham, simply sliced and served ($22). The wine list, cleverly printed on a magnum wine bottle, includes well-chosen selections from Spain, Argentina and the States. Convivio even promises a kitchen open till 2 am, Thursday through Saturday. 700 S. Durham, 832.360.1750; conviviohouston.com.

Image: Photo by Deborah Smail.

Saint Genevieve

Mon, 12 Dec 2011 06:03:08 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners Darren and Jeff Van Delden.
What%26rsquo;s Being Served: If you%26rsquo;re searching for a modern speakeasy where you can sip fun cocktails and order tasty nibbles, pull up a bar stool at Saint Genevieve. Brothers Jeff and Darren Van Delden%26rsquo;s Parisian-inspired concept, awash in robin%26rsquo;s-egg blue, is attracting lots of pretty young things and fame-named socials (as well as those who desire to be in their proximity) from happy hour through 2 am most mornings. Long communal tables invite strangers to meet and mingle over tinctures with names such as Bing-a-Ling, Quiet Slap in the Face, The Run Around and Kirby Derby, plus build-your-own Bloody Marys on the weekends. Chef Kevin Naderi, an alum of restaurant Haven, consulted on the appetizing small plates on the ambitious menu, such as chili spiced puffed pinwheel chips ($5) ,and bar bites including chickpea dusted calamari ($10) and Mumbai fried chicken with tamarind chutney ($10). In West Ave at 2800 Kirby Dr., 713.524.2441; saintgen.com.

Image: Saint Genevieve. Photo by William Vo.

Private Social

Tue, 22 Nov 2011 05:03:43 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners Andy Austin, Patrick Halbert, owner/executive chef Tiffany Derry.
Welcome to the Club: Listen up, social swells: Celebrity chef Tiffany Derry %26mdash; the former Bravo TV Top Chef and Top Chef All Stars contender %26mdash; has established a dining spot for you and the company you keep. %26ldquo;It%26rsquo;s made for enjoying time with your different friends from all parts of life,%26rdquo; says Derry. Her glossy, glassy McKinney Avenue eatery Private Social is just a trolley-track hop across from Frankie%26rsquo;s Sports Bar and Grill, in the newly revamped base of the One McKinney Plaza tower. The notion here, says Derry, %26ldquo;is all about everyone being comfortable.%26rdquo; The hook? A restaurant with a decidedly dual personality. The %26ldquo;Private%26rdquo; side of things spans the left half of the space and is focused on fine dining. Reservations are required, and the menu reads like one of those delectable Top Chef tastings. Menu items combine Derry%26rsquo;s foodie roots with thoughtfully sourced ingredients. What we%26rsquo;re ordering: braised oxtails, white sturgeon over blue-crab chowder and the roasted bone marrow. There%26rsquo;s even a salad on the menu named after the Dallas food scene%26rsquo;s beloved urban farmer, Tom Spicer. As for those with libations on the brain, step to your right through the door to the more casual %26ldquo;Social%26rdquo; side, to sip on an Italian Old Fashioned (Makers Mark, orange and lemon peels, with Dolin and Campari dust) or one of the many other cocktails. Here, an expansive bar, community tables and tall-tops create a dynamic, social-centric energy. The menu, like the space, takes on a social vibe, too, with shared plates such as Korean barbecue short ribs, fried Hiramasa rolls and a Gyro flatbread with lamb, tzatziki, roasted tomato, arugula and pickled onion. We dare say that being a member of the in-crowd has never tasted better. 3232 McKinney Ave., 214.754.4744; privatesocial.com.

Image: Private Social. Photo by Thomas Mosley.

Princi Italia

Tue, 22 Nov 2011 04:58:58 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Patrick Colombo, executive chef Kevin Ascolese, general manager Mike Nicol.
Bellissimo, Colombo: If Preston Royal Village seems to have taken on a distinctly Tuscan look, you have restaurateur Patrick Colombo to thank. Colombo %26mdash; the man behind Cr%26uacute; Wine Bar, Ferr%26eacute; Ristorante e Bar and Steel Restaurant %26amp; Lounge %26mdash; should be wildly proud of his new restaurant, Princi Italia. We think it%26rsquo;s the next best thing to dining your way through the Boot, with a menu of refined, rustic dishes such as tortellini fonduta with a dreamy black-truffle-and-butter sauce and fig-and-gorgonzola bruschette with a balsamic reduction. If Princi Italia%26rsquo;s Italiano indulgences %26mdash; crafted by exec chef Kevin Ascolese, of Mi Piaci, Salve! and Ferr%26eacute; %26mdash; don%26rsquo;t have you dreaming of the inimitable land of pizza e pasta, allow Colombo to chat with you about what inspired it all: a Colombo-family culinary tour of Venice, Tuscany, Florence and the Amalfi Coast. It was here that Colombo mused about the new restaurant, dreaming up ideas for its menu of homemade pastas and Napolitano-style pizzas made in an oak-wood-burning oven, even the restaurant%26rsquo;s urbane interior designed by JonesBaker Interiors + Architecture (Meddlesome Moth, Ellerbe Fine Foods, Rusty Taco). The open dining room is a nod to the modern farmhouse, with a vaulted, wood-beam ceiling; Venetian-plastered walls; and pendant lamps cleverly made of weathered baskets. The best part? You won%26rsquo;t need a translator or a plane ticket to embark on this Italian excursion. 5959 Royal Lane, Suite 707, 214.739.5959; princiitalia.com.

Image: Photo by Robert Yu.

Meso Maya

Mon, 10 Oct 2011 12:18:13 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Mike Karns, general manager Elisabet Ruiz.
A Rather Delicious Prophecy: Forget all that Mayan talk about 2012. If there%26rsquo;s one thing we can predict for the coming year, it%26rsquo;s plenty of top-shelf margaritas and carne asada from Meso Maya. The just-opened Mexican eatery at the northwest corner of Preston Road and Forest Lane has quite the boast-worthy pedigree: Its owner is the adored restaurateur Mike Karns, of El Fenix, while manning the kitchen is Nico Sanchez %26mdash; one of the brightest chefs on the dining scene, having spent time crafting dishes everywhere from Sambuca, where he got his start in the mid %26rsquo;90s, to Cuba Libre, Screen Door and, most recently, Hibiscus. When curating Meso Maya%26rsquo;s menu of south-of-the-border fare, Sanchez, a native of southern Mexico, was inspired by his hometown cuisine. %26ldquo;This is what I grew up eating,%26rdquo; he says, of his no-nonsense recipes. Dining disclaimer: With tasty platos such as the cazuela de pollo (pan-seared chicken with yuka root and roasted poblanos) and the chef%26rsquo;s favorite, the conchinita pibil, a scrumptious, braised achiote pork with homemade habanero salsa, this is not your everyday Tex-Mex. The interior, like the inspired menu, boasts a refreshing feel, too. Design guru William Baker %26mdash; an expert when it comes to modern decor %26mdash; worked a bit of contemporary magic here. The sleek spaces have a raw, honest, industrial feel, and the walls are horizontal wood planks and exposed bricks. There%26rsquo;s not a pi%26ntilde;ata in sight. Instead, there are intricate wooden art pieces carved into replicas of magnum-sized premium tequila bottles, made by Marfa-based artist Camp Bozworth. More tequila buzz: The bar is stocked with 17 award-winning types for splashing into your margarita %26mdash; think Herradura Selecci%26oacute;n Suprema A%26ntilde;ejo, Patr%26oacute;n Burdeos A%26ntilde;ejo and Don Julio Real A%26ntilde;ejo. Need we say more? For more restaurant scoop, turn to page 38. 11909 Preston Road, 469.726.4390; mesomaya.com.

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Image: Photo by Randy Yarbrough

Rohst

Sun, 09 Oct 2011 11:43:55 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Steve Choi, chef Michelle Choi.

Korean with a Kick: Where to feast on spicy Korean stews, slow-cooked marinated barbecue and tangy Kimchi, those fragrant, fermented vegetables? Pull up a seat at Rohst, Lower Greenville Avenue%26rsquo;s latest resto resident, where owner Steve Choi and his wife, chef Michelle Choi, have set out to bring Korean tastes to town, but with an American spin %26mdash; the menus are in full-on English.%26ldquo;While Korean food has flourished for decades in big cities on the west coast,%26rdquo; Steve says, %26ldquo;there is still not enough awareness in south-central states.%26rdquo; According to Choi, who ran the traditional-style Chosun Korean BBQ on Royal Lane, few people are familiar with the bold, flavorful dishes of Korean cuisine because they simply can%26rsquo;t read the menu. %26ldquo;Guests can%26rsquo;t bring a dictionary to know what they are going to eat,%26rdquo; he says. Our advice? Order up the hand-brushed, char-grilled barbecue pork ribs; soy-glazed salmon with baby bean sprouts; and a tofu-and-vegetable burger for the foodie-est of herbivores. Your sojourn to Korea, however, won%26rsquo;t be complete without one of the specialty martinis: We%26rsquo;re going for the ginger-peach or the green tea. 2817 Greenville Ave., 214.823.8730; rohst.com.

Image: Marinated rib-eye slices on a crispy wonton shell with saut%26eacute;ed vegetables at Rohst. Photo by Joy Zhang.

Baboush

Sun, 09 Oct 2011 11:53:28 GMT

%26nbsp;Keys to the Door: Owners Sam Benoikken, Yaser Khalaf.

Cuisine Culture Clash: Think of it as the culinary equivalent of a bustling souk: The mix of spices, Moroccan flavor and ravishing Middle Eastern culture at Baboush, the newest dining spot in West Village, is enough to whet any adventurous appetite. The restaurant, located between Cork Wines and The Fish Restaurant %26amp; Sushi Bar, is quaint but without shortage of color or flair. Moorish-tile walls, intricate lanterns, hand-painted tables and richly patterned cushions and poufs, all imported from Morocco, play off owners Benoikken and Khalaf%26rsquo;s love of that country. This decidedly decadent mood carries from Baboush%26rsquo;s eccentric design concept to its flavorful Moroccan and Lebanese fare, and many of the recipes here sprung from Benoikken and Khalaf%26rsquo;s own family. Executive chef Ben Sharrod (formerly of the Foundation Room at House of Blues) and assistant chef Nabil Nakawak are trained hands when it comes to crafting the old-world-inspired dishes, served Mezze style %26mdash; the Moroccan equivalent of small plates or tapas %26mdash; in portions sized for sharing. The three things we%26rsquo;re having? 1) The Platter to Share, served with pita, olives and four spreads, from homemade hummus to babaganoush. 2) The traditional kibah, with lamb, onions and pine nuts in a spiced Lebanese crust. 3) For dessert, a salty-sweet date stuffed with mascarpone cheese and orange blossoms, topped with pistachios and honey drizzle. 3636 McKinney Ave. (in West Village), 214.559.0707; baboushdallas.com.

Image: Baboush. Photo by Fernando Rojas.

Wild Salsa Cantina Y Comida

Sun, 09 Oct 2011 11:38:41 GMT

%26nbsp;Keys to the Door: Dallas Restaurant Group Concepts president Mike Hoque, executive chef Kelly Hightower, Dallas Restaurant Group Concepts corporate chef AJ Joglekar.

Hot Tamale: Just one rap %26mdash; and nosh %26mdash; session with the culinary whizzes behind Wild Salsa Cantina Y Comida and we were smitten. Here, the focus is on freshness and serving real Mexico City dishes using loads of local ingredients. %26ldquo;Nothing
is pre-mixed or pre-made,%26rdquo; says Mike Hoque, president at DRG Concepts (Dallas Chop House, Dallas Fish Market), %26ldquo;and we make our tamales fresh daily.%26rdquo; Indeed, step into Wild Salsa%26rsquo;s kitchen and you won%26rsquo;t find the traditional oversized walk-in freezer. Instead, the downtown eatery culls lettuces, tomatoes and micro-greens from Tom Spicer, plus gourmand goods from all over Texas. There are even habaneros, cilantro and mint growing in mini-gardens on Wild Salsa%26rsquo;s patio. On what should you nibble? Tamales with roasted poblano rajas and panela cheese, a j%26iacute;cama cucumber ensalada with toasted cumin blue-agave-nectar vinaigrette and a lamb shank that%26rsquo;s been slow-roasted and wrapped in cactus leaves, all courtesy of executive chef Kelly Hightower (Nova, Tei Tei Robata Bar) and his top-notch team. As for the interior, Hoque brought in Dallas-based identity and branding firm Lucid to infuse the space with vibrant colors and graphics inspired by the Mexican holiday D%26iacute;a de los Muertos. The chairs you%26rsquo;re sitting in %26mdash; along with the hefty entrance doors
and other wood embellishments in the dining room %26mdash; are reclaimed from the Dallas Grand Hotel. And since no Mexican restaurant experience would be complete without tequila, an entire concrete wall has been embedded with Patr%26oacute;n bottles. Not to worry, though, there is tequila for imbibing, too. Try one that%26rsquo;s been infused with jalape%26ntilde;os or, better yet, order up a flight, three tequilas from top makers. We love anything in multiples, you know. 1800 Main St. (in the Mercantile Place complex), 214.741.9453; wildsalsarestaurant.com.

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Image: Wild Salsa Cantina Y Comida. Photo by Kevin Marple.

Bistro 31

Sun, 09 Oct 2011 11:35:50 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Alberto Lombardi, chef Eric Brandt.

The 4-1-1 on 31: When Alberto Lombardi opens a new restaurant, the A-list comes calling. In droves. So expect nothing less than a swarm of socials lining up at his latest hot door: Bistro 31. It’s a 2,100-square-foot dining spot, notably the restaurateur’s first eatery at Highland Park Village, taking up the former Who’s Who Burgers space and a bit more next door. The ingredients here? An interior pulled from memories of Paris cafes, down to the buff-colored plaster walls and the white-oak herringbone floors; a marble-topped, walk-up coffee bar with Deco leanings; a courtyard littered with woven bistro chairs. But the tastiest is the menu, flush with French-, Italian-, and Spanish-influenced Mediterranean fare. “Our chef Eric Brandt has created a wonderful menu,” Lombardi says. Lombardi is mad for the roasted black cod, which Brandt augments with a warm fingerling-potato salad, trumpet mushrooms, snap peas and Pommery mustard sauce. Go, too, for the escargot appetizer with crispy pork belly, chanterelle mushrooms and walnut pistou or the spaghetti chitarra, a house-made pasta with lobster Bolognese. To wash it all down, sip on Bistro 31’s homemade gin-and-tonic, a signature cocktail crafted from Hendricks Gin, fresh lime and quinine powder — indeed, the 17th-century medicinal “tonic” in classic gin-and-tonics. We say, ring the driver. You’ll want to breeze to this delish HPV destination, stat. 87 Highland Park Village, 214.420.3900.

Image: Bistro 31’s trofie pasta with crispy pancetta, roasted cauliflower, Parmesan cream and anchovy bread crumbs. Photo by Brad Thedinger

Sorrell Urban Bistro

Wed, 21 Sep 2011 04:57:23 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Ray Salti, executive chef Soren Pedersen and GM Steven DiMatteo.
What%26rsquo;s Cooking: All across America, every chef worth his or her fleur de sel is chattering about the concept of farm-to-table dining. At Sorrel %26mdash; the new River Oaks%26ndash;area spot in the former Ziggy%26rsquo;s Bar and Grill location on West Alabama %26mdash; enthusiastic Danish chef Soren Pedersen puts the idea into play by foraging the now abundant farmer%26rsquo;s markets throughout the city for seasonal organic fruits, vegetables and herbs. Combined with certified natural meats and fresh sustainable seafood, it all inspires his 15-item lunch and dinner menus, which change not once or twice but several times a week. Pedersen first partnered with Ray Salto for their Fulshear eatery Ray%26rsquo;s Grill; now that they%26rsquo;ve moved inside the loop, they%26rsquo;re showing us what this latest culinary obsession entails in realtime, via live streaming on the web that%26rsquo;s also projected on monitors throughout the restaurant. One hint: Don%26rsquo;t get too attached to the addictive, Asian-feeling house-cured wild salmon app with pickled Jerusalem cucumber and mustard drizzle ($9) or the seared Muscovy duck leg with a light, potato-leek tart and fig balsamic reduction ($25), as they might just vanish by the next time you drop in. If only we could convince Pedersen to keep the seared sea scallops and prawns atop creamy, herb-studded cheddar grits and spicy tomato slaw on the menu for an extended stay %26hellip; That dish bursts with flavor and a textural interplay we%26rsquo;d love to taste again and again. The light, airy dining room, with its view of the action in the kitchen, offers lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch with bites at the bar (including house-made charcuterie) and prix-fixe, five-course dinners ($45 or $65), as well as well-priced wines, many of which are organic. 2202 W. Alabama, 713.677.039; sorrelhouston.com.

Image: Sorrel Urban Bistro. Photo by Kim Park.

Dee Lincoln's Tasting Room %26 Bubble Bar

Sun, 09 Oct 2011 07:15:03 GMT

Keys to the Door: Founder Dee Lincoln, general manager Lyndsey Gray.
Dee Lincoln Doubles her Bubbles: The Queen of Steak? She%26rsquo;s been called that, but these days, Dee Lincoln %26mdash; the woman who first earned her nom de prime rib as the co-founder of Del Frisco%26rsquo;s Double Eagle Steak House %26mdash; seems more like the Countess of Champagne. She%26rsquo;s just opened the second location of her namesake Tasting Room and Bubble Bar (you may have clinked a flute or three at her first, inside Cowboys Stadium on the restricted Silver Level), and this time she%26rsquo;s cut the ribbons at Rosewood Court on Cedar Springs Road. Clearly, she has spared little expense: Think custom-made bubble chandeliers designed in Venice, a bar crafted from white marble and low-slung Italian sofas slicked in silver upholstery that almost looks liquid. There are jolts of magenta and chocolate brown with shimmer galore, in part from the mother-of-pearl terrazzo flooring, but mostly from the gobs of shiny, mirrored surfaces upstairs and down. Why this ultra-glamorous shell? For imbibing in the Bubble Bar%26rsquo;s myriad champagnes and wines, from unheard-of vineyards to major-label scotches, cognacs and ports. There are classic cocktails, too, such as Negronis and Sazeracs. But our favorites? The dispensing machines %26mdash; one for perfectly chilled bubbly by the ounce, the other for tip-top wine varietals. Pair it all with delish eats such as cured meats and cheeses, sturgeon caviar, tuna shasimi and a trio of dips with crispy lavosh. FYI, you can slip in for dessert, too: We highly recommend the warm bread pudding with rum sauce. 2101 Cedar Springs Road, 214.979.9463; deelincolnstastingroom.com.

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Image: Kevin Marple.

Company Cafe

Sun, 09 Oct 2011 06:53:51 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners Stephen White and Chris Cowan, managers Siobhan Omlor and Jeff Wells.
The Company We%26rsquo;re Keeping: How does one go from CrossFit gym owner to locavore restaurateur to farm aficionado? Ask Company Cafe owner Stephen White, the man behind one of Greenville Avenue%26rsquo;s newest eateries %26mdash; and don%26rsquo;t be surprised when he starts waxing poetic with health-nut jargon. %26ldquo;Gluten-free!%26rdquo; %26ldquo;Farm-fresh!%26rdquo; %26ldquo;Cage-free!%26rdquo; %26ldquo;Grass-fed!%26rdquo; Our advice? Drink the Kool-Aid. One chat with White and we felt moved to adopt a more wholesome diet and, perhaps, even venture out to one of the many Texas farms where White sources everything from dairy to eggs, beef to fresh produce. At Company Cafe, the vibe is unassuming, with its minimal design aesthetic: Black-and-white photographs line one wall, and atop each table, a succulent grows from a crafty aluminum-can-turned-flowerpot. As for the menu? It%26rsquo;s of the it-all-sounds-so-good variety, packing a bevy of breakfast, lunch and dinner goodies, crafted by chefs Natasha Berlin and Fred Messick. For your morning fix, nosh on The Beat, complete with two cage-free eggs, sunny side up, applewood-smoked bacon, avocado and J.T. Lemley tomatoes piled on a gluten-free bagel and served with homemade salsa. (Brunch perfected.) For dinner, we insist you order the gluten-free chicken and waffles, sided with authentic Vermont maple syrup. But just wait until dessert: think the most divine, gluten-free macaroons and cookies, or the sinful peanut-butter cake %26mdash; all whipped up on site by a certain someone White calls %26ldquo;Maria the Baker.%26rdquo; We%26rsquo;ve never felt in better company. 2217 Greenville Ave., 214.827.2233; companycafe.net.

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Image: The gluten-free waffle with Vermont maple syrup at Company Cafe. Photo by Justin Clemons.

Relish Fine Foods

Thu, 11 Aug 2011 03:58:54 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Addie D%26rsquo;Agostino; chef Dustin Teague, pastry chef Julie Hewitt.
What%26rsquo;s Cooking: She had us at the name. For a neighborhood gourmet market with that on-trend slow-food bent, %26ldquo;Relish%26rdquo; certainly has a great ring to it, don%26rsquo;t you think? Its hip 24-year-old proprietress, Addie D%26rsquo;Agostino (whose mother, Diane D%26rsquo;Agostino, owns Houston-based Elegant Edibles), is a French Culinary Institute grad who also designed the sleek interiors, with Carrara marble counters, clean white cubbies and chrome wire shelving, %26agrave; la Dean %26amp; Deluca. Here, prepared salads and marvelous baked goodies, as well as an edited selection of specialty items and basic pantry staples, take center stage. Buzz in for lunch to go from 11 am to 2:30 pm and grab a jalape%26ntilde;o pimento cheese sandwich or Dijon shrimp salad spread between slices of local Slow Dough bread ($4.50 to $10). There are entr%26eacute;e salads, too, such as a refreshing watermelon, tomato and feta concoction ($8.15) and a Texas steak salad with jicama and black-bean corn salsa ($10), plus a chilled case full of market sides you can order by the small scoop or buy in volume and serve later to your hungry brood at home. The menu, which often changes weekly, is posted online and will soon feature dinner selections such as lemon thyme roast chicken you can order ahead and fetch on your way home from work. Staying true to the community, she%26rsquo;s also brought in Way Back When dairy, including low-heat-pasteurized milk and butter (as close to European raw as the USDA will let farmers get), Houston Dairymaids cheeses, Al Marcus bacon and Greenway Coffee and Tea. 3951 San Felipe, 713.599.1960; relishhouston.com.

Image: Addie D'Agostino. Photo by Julie Sofer.

DownHouse

Thu, 11 Aug 2011 04:17:38 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners/operators Chris Cusack and Joey Treadway; designer Joel Mozersky; stylists/fabricators Jur and Becki Van Der Oord; chef Chandler Rothbard.
What%26rsquo;s Cooking: Those familiar not only with the scientific studies of British naturalist Charles Darwin but his personal life as well will recognize the inside reference from whence this new Houston Heights restaurant/bar/coffeehouse borrows its name. Down House was Darwin%26rsquo;s historic estate in Downe, England; here, the moniker gently connotes how a new breed of young, curious restaurant owners like Chris Cusack (who grew up in the neighborhood) see eateries evolving. And you%26rsquo;ll find that curiosity is something the 29-year-old former science teacher fosters in his patrons, too: He%26rsquo;s always open to the questions and even challenges they pose. Relying on locally sourced ingredients, the team at Down House not only takes the time to create bitters and infusions for their spirits from scratch and prepare every element of a sandwich %26agrave; la minute, but they impart the reasons why it%26rsquo;s better, for instance, to pull an impeccable espresso on their approachable but eager-to-learn waitstaff. Their aim is to offer continuous service daily, from breakfast (a feast of breakfast tacos, $3 to $4; whole-grain waffles with house-made berry syrup, $6; omelets, $9 to $10) to lunch (a chopped bibb salad artfully arranged with summer vegetables, $7; beer-braised pork belly sandwich with creamed spinach and Drunken Yodeler cheese on a pretzel roll, $10) to dinner (still to be unveiled as we go to press). 1801 Yale St. 713.864.3696; downhousehouston.com.

Image: Photo by Jenny Antill.

Tony Mandola's

Thu, 11 Aug 2011 04:35:04 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners Phyllis and Tony Mandola.
What%26rsquo;s on the Menu: For the legions of fans who flocked to Tony Mandola%26rsquo;s former River Oaks Shopping Center space for years, then passed the time this spring at the temporary Westheimer locale while this built-from-the-ground-up space was being readied, the wait is finally over. It seems like all of the 225 seats inside this 6,700-square-foot New Orleans%26ndash;themed space (patio dining will be unveiled when the temperature drops) are jammed by the oil, finance and legal set at lunch and by their
well-heeled R.O. neighbors at dinner. The namesake/owner and his wife, Phyllis, hail from two of Houston%26rsquo;s restaurant dynasties %26mdash; the Mandolas (of downtown Mandola grocery-store and beer-parlor fame) and the Laurenzos (as in Ninfa Laurenzo, the Tex-Mex matriarch who was Phyllis%26rsquo; mom) %26mdash; and much respect is paid to the %26ldquo;mamas%26rdquo; who inspired this pair. You%26rsquo;ll find your favorite on- and off-the-menu dishes, from chilly oysters on the half shell %26mdash;perfect with blue-cheese-stuffed olives bobbing in a Cloudy Martini %26mdash; to fried calamari %26agrave; la mama dosed with oregano-butter sauce and peperoncini or a shrimp cocktail. New offerings include coal-fired pizzas of the thin, crisp-crust variety where toppings come right up to the edge, such as the gumbo pizza ($14). The menu is crowded with seafood; we love the seasonal blackened soft-shell crabs ($35). Don%26rsquo;t miss such Little Italy staples as the spaghetti and meatballs ($12): This is the gravy-laced (read: tomato sauce) macaroni and meatball combo that every Sicilian immigrant grandmother makes for her brood on Sundays. Straightforward without a trace of pretense, the service here is as polished and sincere as the well-honed menu. 1212 Waugh Dr., 713.528.3474; tonymandolas.com.

Image: Phyllis and Tony Mandola. Photo by Julie Sofer.

Petite Sweets

Wed, 10 Aug 2011 06:49:06 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners Lee Ellis, pastry chef Susan Molzan, Carl Eaves, Lance Fegen and Steve Rodgers.
What%26rsquo;s Baking: Skipping dessert? Bite your tongue! For those who love to read a menu backwards, surveying the sweet endings first, the name Susan Molzan is quite familiar. This grand pastry dame (of Ruggles fame), who first brought Houston marvelously rich, moist, towering layer cakes and comforting white chocolate macadamia nut bread pudding, has been playing around with sweets of a more diminutive size lately. Working with concepteur Lee Ellis and the gang, she debuts her dessert shop, Petite Sweets, early this month. Molzan has been baking away in this sliver of a space on West Alabama (formerly Blueberry Hill Yogurt), whipping up cake balls, whoopie pies, sophisticated French macaroons, cupcakes, cookie-jar favorites and portable sweets. Want to relive those bygone days of chasing down the Good Humor ice cream truck and road-tripping to Dairy Queen? Molzan and her team will also offer unctuous soft-serve, frozen custard with her own upscale version of homemade Belgium chocolate dipped cones, as well as espresso and cappuccino. The invitingly cool space, gleaming with high-gloss white counters edged with exposed birch wood and touches of marble and stainless steel, allows you to sit and rest for a few moments or take your guilty pleasures with you. 2700 W. Alabama, 713.520.7007; petitesweetsinfo.com.

Image: Photo by Jack Thompson.

Tiny’s No. 5

Thu, 11 Aug 2011 04:19:10 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners Lance and Greg Thompson; chef Baron Doke; pastry chef Vanarin Kuch; interiors Kathy Frietsch, architecture Issac Preminger.
What%26rsquo;s Cooking: It looks like Tiny Boxwood%26rsquo;s is all grown up. The gorgeous cafe concept, first created on a whim in a former potting shed beside the gardens of Thompson + Hanson nursery on West Alabama, was an immediate sensation when it opened five years ago. Last month, the concept expanded to its second locale, opening as Tiny%26rsquo;s No. 5 in the space formerly occupied by JMH grocery%26rsquo;s location number five in West University %26mdash; hence, the homage by Tiny%26rsquo;s owners Greg and Lance Thompson. Like Tiny%26rsquo;s tranquil space across town, the interiors here are whitewashed with a white-marble-topped bar, gray-toned wicker chairs and immense steel-framed windows that grant you a view of the meticulous manicured lawn edged with delicate olive trees. Open at first for dinner, with breakfast to follow in mid August, and lunch and the retail shop debuting this September, Tiny%26rsquo;s focus has shifted, and investments have been made (i.e., hiring a pastry chef and expanding the number of seats) to play restaurant with the big boys. The menu is intentionally limited to just four entr%26eacute;es, four pizzas and five apps for dinner %26mdash;%26nbsp;a seasonal selection of items such as a butter lettuce salad that%26rsquo;s simply layers of tender leaves built like a flower blossoming on the plate with a drizzle of pine-nut vinaigrette ($9), and thin, cracker-crust (with the tiniest of bready pull) pizzas topped with an alluring combo of strawberries and prosciutto, arugula, walnuts and goat cheese with a balsamic syrup ($15). Entr%26eacute;es include a wood-fired daily fish selection ($28), as well as rack of lamb ($28) and a house burger ($21), where the chef boasts that every element (except for the proteins, naturally) are made in-house. Pastries ($9 each) include a marvelous %26ldquo;taste of England%26rdquo;: a trio of butterscotch basque cake, shortbread and a tiny layered parfait with Meyer lemon curd and rhubarb compote. Lucky neighbors who live within a mile can stroll to dinner and get a ride home in Tiny%26rsquo;s little red electric car, too! No reservations. 3636 Rice Blvd., 713.664.0141; tinyboxwoods.com.

Image: Tiny's No. 5. Photo by Jenny Antill.

Cuisine for a Cause

Thu, 11 Aug 2011 05:09:15 GMT

For a delicious nonprofit restaurant recipe, look no further than Caf%26eacute; Momentum. Begin with a concoction of restaurateurs and philanthropists: Parigi Restaurant co-owners Chad Hauser and Janice Provost, plus board-of-advisors members such as Jerry Silhan of Youth Village Resources of Dallas, Katherine Lindholm of the North Texas Food Bank and Steve Palma of Central Dallas Ministries. Next, teach basic gastronomic skills to a group of 13- to 17-year-old boys from the Dallas County Youth Village juvenile detention facility. Rotate the epicurean pupils through various front- and back-of-house positions, including cooking, plating and serving %26mdash; all while being mentored by a special guest chef who changes monthly. Finally, one Sunday a month, house the budding cooks in a pop-up eatery at various local restaurants and invite the foodie contingent to nosh on the prix-fixe dinner (the tariff changes monthly, too). Stir. Et voil%26agrave;! You%26rsquo;re left with a charitable-cool concept that teaches disadvantaged youth a skill that can lead to paid positions in the Youth Village cafeteria and beyond. The tastiest ingredient? Caf%26eacute; Momentum has partnered with the North Texas Master Gardeners Association, allowing its culinary students the opportunity to cultivate ingredients locally. A fresh idea, indeed. Eats deets: The August 7 and September 11 dinners have already sold out, so promptly reserve your seat for the feast on Sunday, October 2, featuring Salum and Komali chef Abraham Salum ($75) at cafemomentum.org.

Brasserie 19

Wed, 06 Jul 2011 07:59:33 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners Grant Cooper and Charles Clark; chef Antoine Ware; managing partner Shawn Virene.
What%26rsquo;s on the Menu: Quickly sliding into the hot spot on West Gray that Tony Mandola vacated in January on his way to Waugh, Charles Clark and Grant Cooper (owners of Ibiza and Catalan, which is soon to be revamped as Coppa) started implementing the plans they%26rsquo;ve been tinkering with for more than a year. In the hands of interior designer Julie McGarr, Brasserie 19 is a gorgeous, sophisticated environ awash in tones of dove gray with Carrara marble surfaces, bistro-apropos nylon rattan chairs and what appears to be hardwoods laid in a chevron pattern underfoot (but it%26rsquo;s actually linoleum). Terribly chic! Lining the walls are cozy gray banquettes where you can sit and spy bartenders mixing up martinis and chefs shucking fresh shellfish. The name %26mdash; a play on the area%26rsquo;s zip code %26mdash; invites a clubby mix from the 19, 27, 98, 05 and 06 to swing in and join the crowds who%26rsquo;ve mobbed the place since the doors swung open. Yes, it%26rsquo;s true: The place is quite noisy, but after our visits Cooper says they%26rsquo;ve installed acoustic tiles to bring a bit of a hush over the room. Brasserie 19 serves up modern French brasserie dishes with an American twist%26nbsp; %26mdash; and perhaps even Spanish, Michael? That magnificent grilled octopus app with fingerling potato, red chili
and garlic pur%26eacute;e ($14) seemed straight from Barcelona. We adored the fris%26eacute;e and watercress salad dotted with Texas figs and a local blue cheese ($13) and were wowed by the presentation of the Bouchot mussels bathed in Belgian ale and mustard with andouille, presented in a cast-iron Staub covered casserole ($15). But the Brasserie 19 steak frites ($38), which one might guess would be a highlight, screamed out for a punch of seasoning to both the steak%26rsquo;s surface and the frites, while the accompanying aioli wasn%26rsquo;t robust enough to offset the lapse in the dish%26rsquo;s flavor. But brighten up: The apple galette ($9) for dessert was a winner %26mdash; just give us more ice cream to gobble up with each scrumptious caramel apple-covered bite. 1962 W. Gray, River Oaks Shopping Center, 713.524.1919; brasserie19.com.

Snap Kitchen

Wed, 06 Jul 2011 05:02:56 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Martin Berson.
What%26rsquo;s in the Kitchen: Every New Year, like so many people, I vow to eat more healthfully. While I%26rsquo;m not scarfing down Cheetos and Taco Bell, I%26rsquo;m admittedly preoccupied with my next meal. (And, of course, dining out is an occupational perk/hazard in this line of work.) For years I%26rsquo;ve yearned to be a more conscious eater, understanding how much protein I should consume daily %26mdash; and how much salt, refined sugar and saturated fats I should not. Thanks to Snap Kitchen, I%26rsquo;m finally on my way to eating more cleanly. I took the 21-day challenge and pledged to eat nothing but Snap%26rsquo;s chef-prepared take-out fare for three weeks. The concept, which Martin Berson started last year in Austin, arrived in Houston a few months ago, including a full-time dietician. After assessing my goals, I went over their menus and chimed in with my own meal preferences. I admit, I was skeptical because I love to cook (and was even trained to do so in Paris); I loathe leftovers and take-out fare, and harbor the precept that diet/healthful food couldn%26rsquo;t possibly have enough zing to really grab me. Wrong, wrong, wrong! I found myself raving about (and then craving) Snap Kitchen%26rsquo;s peanut butter pancakes, turkey chili, chimichurri chicken, tuna Ni%26ccedil;oise salad, vegan scramble (seriously!), chicken-and-butternut-squash spaghetti, bison quinoa hash and truffled quinoa mac %26rsquo;n%26rsquo; cheese. And here%26rsquo;s the important part: I didn%26rsquo;t ever feel hungry. Thanks to two healthy in-between meals snacks daily, I nibbled on Snap War Bars (a soft granola-like treat), hummus, deviled eggs, chickpea salad, even vegetable lasagna to quell my appetite. The results: clearer skin and a sense of well-being. I managed to drop a few pounds, too. Meals and snacks range from $3 to $13; getting with the program only costs the price of the food. 3600 Kirby Dr., 713.526.5700; snapkitchen.com.

Arturo Boada Cuisine

Wed, 06 Jul 2011 07:55:56 GMT

Keys to the Door: Chef/owner Arturo Boada.
What%26rsquo;s on the Menu: If there is one chef in town who makes quick friends of a stranger, it%26rsquo;s Arturo Boada. Reserve a table at any of the restaurants he%26rsquo;s owned over the years %26mdash; including his latest, Arturo Boada Cuisine near the Memorial Villages off Voss %26mdash; and he%26rsquo;s likely, if you ask sweetly, to make you a fresh clam pizza like the one you fell in love with in New Haven. Or text you when he hasn%26rsquo;t seen you in a while, imploring you to stop in for a snapper al fresco. And you%26rsquo;ll be glad you did. Boada is more than simply proficient at creating dishes with an Italian, Latin, French or Spanish spin; his food reverberates with flavor. The menu at his new eponymous neighborhood eatery plays like a list of his greatest hits and includes a zesty m%26eacute;lange of saut%26eacute;ed shrimp with hearts of palm, tomato and sweet plantains with a soy-ginger sauce ($12.50), while his three-bite fish tacos with a serrano garlic sauce ($10.50) tease your palate for what is to come next. Beef lovers will relish his beautifully cooked and seasoned grilled filet center cut paired with fresh sliced tomatoes, Roquefort and fried onion strips tossed with a hint of truffle oil ($29.50). Pastas tempt, such as his Rigatoni with grilled chicken, sweet peas, mushrooms and prosciutto in a suga rosa sauce ($18.50) and his Mama Sonia%26rsquo;s chicken porcini ravioli napped in a caper white wine sauce and topped with luxurious lump crabmeat ($21.50). And don%26rsquo;t forget those pizzas shoveled straight from the scorching brick oven. Best yet, you%26rsquo;ll find Boada himself behind the range most every day of the week, putting out the kind of fun, casual food he%26rsquo;s passionate about and his loyalists crave. 6510 Del Monte, 713.782.3011.

Image: Arturo Boada. Photography jack Thompson.

Olive %26 Vine

Wed, 06 Jul 2011 07:48:59 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners Wayde and Susan Burt.
Stocked Goods: As food consumers get more discriminating, thankfully shops such as Olive %26amp; Vine are following suit, filling a longing we didn%26rsquo;t realize we had until the moment we stroll in the door. Former herb farmers Susan and Wayde Burt, who worked with the late Sol Meltzer (aka %26ldquo;The Herb Man,%26rdquo; as Houston%26rsquo;s old-guard chefs fondly recall), have created a boutique dedicated to nearly nothing but extra virgin olive oil and aged balsamic vinegars. Not as concerned with an EVOO%26rsquo;s country of origin as they are with myriad elements of its flavor profile, they stock 19 olive oils, some pure and some flavored, each pressed within 24 hours of harvest. Housed in a stainless container called a fusti, each is stamped with the date it was crushed %26mdash; you have about a year after that date to utilize it without compromising the oil%26rsquo;s taste. When we stopped in for a tasting (they encourage liberal sniffing, dipping bread and sipping of both the balsamics and the olive oils), we enjoyed the Northern Hemisphere%26ndash;produced oils in stock. The Burts rotate their stock, which is harvested once a year, tapping out the last of the Manzanillo oil and the herbaceous Mission variety pressed late last year just as the Southern Hemisphere oils are arriving. The balsamic selections%26nbsp; are aged up to 18 years and include aromatic options such as strawberry blush, pink grapefruit and warm cinnamon pear, while infused olive oils include options such as Meyer lemon, sweet basil, savory sage and mushroom, and Tunisian Harissa. With the exception of truffle oils, both freshly poured balsamic and olive oils are priced $10 for 200 ml and $18 for 375 ml. 12848 Queensbury Lane, CityCentre, 713.468.1183; oliveandvineshop.com.

The New Classic

Thu, 26 May 2011 02:03:40 GMT

During the grand-opening party for the new Marquee Grill %26amp; Bar in Highland Park Village, certain buzzwords were flying: landmark. Institution. Dream come true. The social swells were out in force %26mdash; the Washburnes, the Summers, the Wrubels, the Roses, the Wynnes %26mdash;%26nbsp;and the vibe was sublime. Marquee is, after all, the first restaurant to open in the historic shopping center in nearly 10 years, and that alone warrants a weighty celebration. Owner Brian Twomey %26mdash; the entrepreneur/restaurateur who revamped Marquee%26rsquo;s neighboring Village Theater and opened 2010%26rsquo;s beloved Uptown eatery, The Common Table %26mdash;%26nbsp;kept bold-named HPV frequenters in mind when crafting the concept. Ask and he%26rsquo;ll quickly tell you that this is Highland Park%26rsquo;s new dining room.%26nbsp;We concur: It is the place to see and be seen. (On just one Wednesday afternoon for lunch, we spied millionaires, a billionaire and more than one Pucci-clad socialite.) Begin your Marquee journey in the first floor%26rsquo;s monochromatic dining room with a delightful view of the open kitchen where Top Chef star Tre Wilcox and his finely tuned team of chefs rapidly produce gourmet spins on New American fare %26mdash;%26nbsp;think marinated jumbo Texas shrimp over chipotle-jack cheese grits, spice-rubbed chicken thighs in a dry-sack sherry sauce and a sinful chocolate tart topped with salty, homemade caramel popcorn. Venture upstairs and you%26rsquo;ll find mod furnishings, a sunroom anchored by a large dining table, plus a collection of artwork ranging from vintage movie posters to works by Alexander Calder. For those with beverages on the brain, mixologist Jason Kosmas (he%26rsquo;s put his mark on the sips at Neighborhood Services Tavern and Bolsa) has prepped a colorful cocktail menu for the spacious, second-story bar. Trust us: It%26rsquo;s a modern-day Mad Men vibe fit for Highland Park%26rsquo;s Don Drapers. But the real reason we%26rsquo;re in love is the patio, positioned atop the Village Theater%26rsquo;s lit marquee, hence this hot spot%26rsquo;s name. Its dynamite view of Highland Park Village and beyond is something even HPV%26rsquo;s original architect Wilbur David Cook couldn%26rsquo;t have dreamt up any better in the glamorous 1930s.

Image: Photo by Quinn Nagurney.

This Just In: Katsuya by Starck

Thu, 26 May 2011 01:18:02 GMT

After much speculation and rumors, we can confirm that Katsuya by Starck will open at West Ave. The nouveau sushi concept made famous in Los Angeles, with otherworldly interiors by none other than Philippe Starck, will make its Houston debut in January 2012. Look for the edgy sushi concept, which is owned by
the SBE Group, to take residence across the street from Eddie V%26rsquo;s, on the first floor of the new Kirby/Westheimer development.

Image: Katsuya in Hollywood.

Revival Market

Thu, 26 May 2011 01:46:40 GMT

Keys to the Door: Co-owners Ryan Pera and Morgan Weber.
Stocked Goods: Not to be confused with your ordinary convenience store that stocks everything from Big Red to Hellmann%26rsquo;s, Revival Market is the sort of old-fangled local grocer your great-grandparents may have frequented. Here you%26rsquo;ll find out-of-the-ordinary foodstuffs such as pristine organic produce, pickles and jams, stone-milled local grains and flours, artisan olive oils and house-made vinegars, heritage meats, fresh fish and scrumptious baked goods. Situated in the Heights, this chef-driven project was conceived by chef Ryan Pera and third-generation farmer Morgan Weber to pick up where weekends-only farmers%26rsquo; markets leave off. They forage the Texas countryside within roughly a 150-mile perimeter for their uncommon food finds. Swing in here for artisan breads by Slow Dough, yummy baked goods care of Fluff Bake Bar, Hill Country cheese from Houston Dairymaids, honey harvested from as far as Montgomery and as close as the Heights, Galveston sea salt, eggs from Dustin%26rsquo;s in Weimar and Revival branded meats, which are also slow-cured in the European tradition for some of Pera%26rsquo;s prepared meals and quick bites on the run. Drop in when the doors open at 6:30 am for a latte on your way to work, or pick up a couple of luscious rib-eyes on your way home after work. We love Pera%26rsquo;s thoughtful (and delicious) sandwiches and salads, available to take out or eat in at the tiny cafe. Don%26rsquo;t miss the Andouille Banh Mi, the Revival hot dog on pretzel roll and the Market BLT. 550 Heights Blvd., 713.880.8463; revivalmarket.com.

Image: Ryan Pera and Morgan Weber.

The Place: The Cedars Social

Thu, 28 Apr 2011 01:14:25 GMT

1326 S. Lamar St., 214.928.7700; thecedarssocial.com
%26bull; Famous faces make up the team: superstar chef John Tesar and former NFL player Brian Williams %26mdash; who happens to be the owner.
%26bull; Williams scored a touchdown on Cedars%26rsquo; interior, with its mid-century-modern-goes-%26rsquo;70s-swank vibe %26mdash;%26nbsp;think a bar fronted with Eames stools, a cozy-cool indoor fire pit and a soundtrack boasting nonstop classic rock.
%26bull; Get to know mixologist Michael Martensen. Ask for this off-the-menu libation: the extra-hot Diablo Rojo, with organic Puro Verde tequila and fresh raspberries muddled with jalape%26ntilde;o peppers. Note: When we dined, our waiter informed us that spicy cocktails enlarge your appetite. Also note: Should you order a cocktail from the menu, best of luck deciding: There are more than 50 sips to try.
%26bull; Order the charred octopus chorizo. (You%26rsquo;ll thank us later.) For less adventurous souls, the fried chicken and waffles is a must-try.

Images:

The Cedars Social. Photo by Randy Yarbrough.

Mixologist Michael Martensen. Photo by Randy Yarbrough.

Pizzeria Alto

Wed, 27 Apr 2011 04:53:13 GMT

Keys to the Door: Schiller Del Grande Restaurant Group.
What%26rsquo;s Cooking: Leave it to Robert Del Grande, Houston%26rsquo;s only chef who can boast a PhD in biochemistry, to decipher a way to create a pizza that%26rsquo;s crisp on the bottom with a chewy outer crust. For Schiller Del Grande%26rsquo;s latest casual Italian concept, Pizzeria Alto (located above its sister eatery, Ava, in West Ave), he wasn%26rsquo;t content with pies that sag in the center, so he pondered the problem as only a methodical scientist could. He installed a stone-walled pizza oven, the kind village bakers in small towns all over Europe traditionally build in their bakeries, and collaborated with Heath Wendall at Slow Dough to create a wet dough with a hint of sour tang that could hold up to toppings such as shrimp sausage, Fresno chiles, grated mozzarella and ricotta salata cheeses, as well as soft ricotta that turns custard-like when exposed for mere minutes to the char of a 600-degree oven. Arguing that less is more, Del Grande has the confidence to hold back and create pizzas where he%26rsquo;s simply layering coppa and shaved fennel under beautifully melted fontina, then shoveling it straight from its semolina-covered paddle to your table. He%26rsquo;s also inspired his chefs to cook more than simply pizza in the hearth. Tossing fresh mussels with fennel and clams steamed open in a broth of lemon juice, chilis, olive oil and liquid that oozes from their own shells, he slides each assemblage into the scorching oven until their little shells open. We also couldn%26rsquo;t pass up his artichoke hearts with cream and fontina cooked in the glittering orange glass-tiled hearth until it bubbles, served with rounds of ciabatta that invite a hearty smear of the oozing mixture. Pizzeria Alto is open late night (midnight Wednesday and Thursday, 1 am Friday and Saturday, closed Mondays), but be forewarned: No matter who you know, they don%26rsquo;t accept reservations. But whether it%26rsquo;s rigatoni with Bolognese, pizza or a fresh crudite with tarragon-laced aioli you crave, it%26rsquo;s all worth waiting for. 2800 Kirby Dr. in West Ave., 713.386.6460; avaalto.com.

Image: Pizzeria Alto

Up Restaurant

Wed, 27 Apr 2011 05:14:10 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Haidar Barbouti, architect Richard Altuna with Issac Preminger.
What%26rsquo;s on the Menu: With ideas on expanding his office space, Highland Village owner Haidar Barbouti had a meeting not%26nbsp; long ago with an engineer, who asked, %26ldquo;Why don%26rsquo;t you add another story? This building was built to sustain the weight of it.%26rdquo; And that was all it took to set the wheels spinning in Barbouti%26rsquo;s mind %26mdash; to conjure not more office space, but a vision of the restaurant pictured before you, Up. The aptly named third-floor eatery is a stunning space with soaring, coffered walnut ceilings and coordinating paneled walls with gauzy, vanilla-colored sheers that gently blow when the windows are open on a beautiful day. From the Carrara-marble-topped bar or the adjoining pretty patio, guests step down into the main dining area and are seated in womb-like banquettes, where the waitstaff proffers a cosseted brand of attentive service. And the reservations book reads like the major donor list at the museum ball. Barbouti, an avid cook and restaurant-goer who cites California chef Alice Water and Roger Verge as inspirations, does not have a chef behind the range, but rather a kitchen manager who executes dishes of Barbouti%26rsquo;s own invention. First courses range from a velvety pur%26eacute;e of tomato gazpacho ($8) to
an assortment of appetizer dips, from caponata to red bell pepper dip ($15) and a beet salad with baby arugula and goat cheese ($11). He%26rsquo;s installed a wood fired oven and gone to the effort of importing Italian 00 flour for both his pasta and pizza concoctions. We swooned over his short rib, fontina, Roquefort and caramelized onion flatbread topped with arugula and a wonderful sticky reduction of balsamic ($15). Fastidious about his ingredients, Barbouti makes all his pasta (ravioli and pappardelle) in-house, insisting on San Marzano tomatoes in his Bolognese ($14) and the best fontina atop his pizzas. And when you%26rsquo;re serving fresh Matagorda redfish, don%26rsquo;t call it snapper. Although he is trying to persuade diners to veer to the lighter side with the sort of fare you%26rsquo;d enjoy in warmer climes like ours, he still has rich hearty dishes such as short ribs and osso bucco to please the carnivores and even a beautifully marinated, oak-grilled double lamp chop with a creamy mint pesto that is astonishingly good any time of year ($31). When challenged to come up with a catchphrase to describe his fare, Barbouti says, %26ldquo;It%26rsquo;s simple, honest food, a menu you can eat.%26rdquo; We couldn%26rsquo;t agree more. 3995 Westheimer Road, 3rd Floor Highland Village Shopping Center, 713.640.5416; uprestaurant.com.

Images: Up Restaurant and its delicious offerings

The Place: Cane Rosso

Thu, 28 Apr 2011 01:12:56 GMT

2612 Commerce St., 214.741.1188; ilcanerosso.com
%26bull; Jay Jerrier serves up thin-crust Neapolitan pies in accordance with the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana. But Jerrier says save your pepperoni, chicken or ranch-dressing cravings for the delivery boy: Cane Rosso%26rsquo;s ingredient list is all authentic, which means hand-crushed San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella pulled in-house from a fresh curd, chilies from the Calabria region, soppressata salami and prosciutto.
%26bull; Have a seat at the bar in front of the hand-built pizza oven, where you could easily get to know your pizza maker. Or grab a spot on the banquette, whose mismatched throw pillows are gifts from opening night. (Jerrier asked friends to bring some. He%26rsquo;s still accepting donations.)
%26bull; Look closely at the menu %26mdash; Jerrier borrowed names from his family, friends and pets. The Special K pie with mozzarella, grape tomatoes and basil? That one%26rsquo;s named for his wife Karen.
%26bull; If you%26rsquo;re feeling fearless, order the Che Cazzo %26mdash; Italian for What The (rhymes with duck) %26mdash; and let the pizza makers concoct your pie from whatever they wish. %26ldquo;It%26rsquo;s like rolling the dice,%26rdquo; says Jerrier. %26ldquo;But it%26rsquo;s always going to be spicy and there%26rsquo;s always something good on it.%26rdquo;

Images:

Pizza at Cane Rosso. Photo by George Fiala.

Owner Jay Jerrier. Photo by George Fiala.

The Place: The Commissary/The Table

Thu, 28 Apr 2011 12:36:15 GMT

1722 Routh St. in One Arts Plaza, 214.643.6557; thecommissarydallas.com
%26bull; Two-for-one means two Tesar concepts in One Arts Plaza, linked by an adjoining door. The Table seats just 12, is reservation-only and boasts a chef-crafted menu by Tesar himself. %26ldquo;It%26rsquo;s about people who love wine and love food,%26rdquo; he says.
%26bull; The Commissary is a wine bar at heart, with three wines on tap (two red, one white) stored in beer boxes and shot with nitrogen for freshness. %26ldquo;It%26rsquo;s draft wine,%26rdquo; explains Tesar. There%26rsquo;s a retail space, too, for purchasing a beloved vino.%26nbsp;%26nbsp;
%26bull; From The Commissary menu, dare yourself to order The Tail End burger, with braised pig tail, ground pork and ground beef, all topped with roasted pork belly, green tomato chutney and jalape%26ntilde;o mayonnaise.
%26bull; As a nod to the across-the-street Booker T. Washington High School for the Performing and Visual Arts, chalkboards are propped throughout The Commissary. The drawings on the bathroom doors are by artist Richard Triptow. As for the chalkboards in the loos? Express yourself: %26ldquo;You can hate on Tesar,%26rdquo; says the man himself. %26ldquo;You can love the meal. Or if you do something bad, we%26rsquo;ll make you write it 10 times.%26rdquo;
%26bull; The two enormous clocks were gifts from One Arts Plaza owner Lucy Billingsley.
%26bull; Take it to go: Goodies from the five-item lunch menu are served in custom-fit, eco-friendly boxes and range from $5 to $8.

Image: Chef/owner John Tesar. Photo by George Fiala.

The Place: Hotel ZaZa’s Dragonfly

Thu, 28 Apr 2011 12:31:34 GMT

2332 Leonard St., 214.550.9500; hotelzazadallas.com
%26bull; Tillman%26rsquo;s Roadhouse alum Dan Landsberg now helms the established Hotel ZaZa eatery as executive chef, whipping up a brand-new modern American menu of brisket bacon cheddar sliders, roasted pork tenderloin with ginger scallion lo mein and sharable, hand-cut sea-salt fries with truffle-ranch dipping sauce.
%26bull; Look for even more changes in the dining room: a muted palette of gray, black and white; Fornasetti wallcoverings; and a megawatt mixture of suspended light bulbs. Take note of the art: Some of it is from ZaZa owner Charlie Givens%26rsquo; private collection.
%26bull; For the best people watching, Landsberg suggests one of the back booths. %26ldquo;You get to see all the action.%26rdquo;
%26bull; Want to sample what the chef and his staff eat? Order the Comida entree. %26ldquo;The dish comes daily from the heart of the kitchen staff,%26rdquo; he says. %26ldquo;It%26rsquo;s exactly what we%26rsquo;re eating that night.%26rdquo;

Images:

The Bay of Fundy Salmon.

Chef Dan Landsberg. Image by George Fiala.

The Place: Oddfellows

Thu, 28 Apr 2011 12:29:41 GMT

316 W. Seventh St., 214.944.5958; oddfellowsdallas.com
%26bull; We%26rsquo;re in love with the look of the place: whitewashed reclaimed wood everywhere; locally built tables galore; vintage firehouse lamps dangling above the long coffee bar; and swing-up shutters that open the windows to the sidewalk.
%26bull; Early birds, nosh on Eastland%26rsquo;s gingerbread pancakes %26mdash; she%26rsquo;s behind the morning bites. Wash them down with a cortado, a steamy concoction that%26rsquo;s equal parts espresso and milk.
%26bull; Calling all locavores: Oddfellows sources ingredients from the Community Gardens of Oak Cliff, Tom Spicer%26rsquo;s FM 1410, Urban Acres and other local markets.
%26bull; %26ldquo;The espresso machine is one of four in the U.S. and one of about a dozen in the world,%26rdquo; says Williams. The price tag? In the range of $30,000.
%26bull; %26ldquo;The seasons will dictate the menu,%26rdquo; Williams tells us of his just-debuted dinner offerings. Eastland%26rsquo;s fave dish is the small-batch salad with arugula, bacon and herbed goat cheese or the grits with a slow-poached egg and braised collard greens. For dessert, go for the grown-up, soft-serve ice cream spiked with the chef%26rsquo;s liquor of choice.
%26bull; Oddfellows is a collaboration of more than a dozen partners: Stacey Rives and Matt Spillers, Mariana and Scott Griggs, Clara and Chad Sepulveda, Gary Buckner, Amy and Eric Cowan, Andrea and Jason Roberts, Amanda Pounds, Jana and Shane Spillers.

Images:

Oddfellows. Photo by George Fiala.

Chefs Brady Williams and Julie Eastland. Photo by George Fiala.

Bernie's Burger Bus

Thu, 28 Apr 2011 12:20:20 GMT

Keys to the Bus: Driver/chef/creator Justin Turner.
What%26rsquo;s Cooking: Look at us, we%26rsquo;re like eager children standing outside this funky old yellow school bus, queuing up for what%26rsquo;s got to be a mighty contender for the %26ldquo;best burger in town%26rdquo; award. The driver/chef/creator of this retrofitted %26rsquo;80s-era school bus turned food truck is Justin Turner; %26ldquo;Bernie%26rdquo; was actually his grandfather, Bernard %26ldquo;Bernie%26rdquo; Schubert, a pretty neat guy whose name makes for some alliteration too awesome to pass up. But lest you think Bernie%26rsquo;s burgers %26mdash; which have clever names such as the Principal, the Substitute and the Pre-schoolers %26mdash; are merely child%26rsquo;s play, think again. For seven years, Turner was personal chef for Shane Battier and his family. He moved with the Rockets star to Houston from Memphis, where he attended cooking school then trained in every aspect of classic French technique, honing his skills in high-end Memphis restaurants. Far from slinging any ordinary burger, this skilled chef grinds three kinds of organic Black Angus beef (chuck, short-ribs and brisket) and hand-cuts his own fries (sweet potato, truffle-laced or chili cheese). He also makes up his own ketchup, mustard, mayo (actually, aioli), pickles, tipsy sweet onions and mushrooms in house. Unlike the food-truck-savvy scene in Austin or Portland, Oregon (the latter inspires Turner most), he envisions buying his own lot one day soon, where in addition to his school bus he%26rsquo;ll install a very upscale ice cream truck and another surprise chef-driven truck %26mdash; but all in due time. Meanwhile, log onto berniesburgerbus.com and see where it%26rsquo;s traveling next. But get to the bus stop early %26mdash; these burgers ($7 to $15) and fries ($2 to $5) go quickly. 281.386.2447; berniesburgerbus.com.

Image: Justin Turner and Bernie's Burger Bus. Photo by Jenny Antill.

Samba Grille

Thu, 28 Apr 2011 12:16:22 GMT

Keys to the Door: Managing partners Estella Erdmann and Nathan Ketcham; executive chef Cesar Rodriguez.
What%26rsquo;s Cooking: Say the word %26ldquo;rodizio,%26rdquo; and what comes to mind? A Brazilian meat fest? Skewers of fire-roasted, rotisserie-style beef, lamb and pork paraded around by South American gauchos who serve and cease serving depending on whether your card is red or green side up? You know the drill. But Samba Grille downtown in Bayou Place has tweaked the concept, cutting out the salad bar in lieu of chef-driven appetizers such as ancho tomato soup, a Boston wedge made with manchego cream dressing and a trio salad with tiny tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and avocado. For those who want a two- or three-course %26agrave; la carte experience with a South American flavor, talented chef Cesar Rodriguez serves a marvelously fat-laden pork belly, slow-roasted then flash-fried and cloaked in a sweet and tangy tamarind glaze; rich sea scallops pan-seared and finished in truffle butter; and a 40-day dry-aged prime New York strip that will sate any carnivore. Leave it to wine director Marc Borel to pick out a quirky bottle you%26rsquo;ve never tried before. Then promise me you won%26rsquo;t leave without ordering Samba%26rsquo;s version of tres leches. Soaked perfectly in a m%26eacute;lange of three traditional milks, this one is topped with rosettes of fresh whipped cream with a hint of Frangelico, brandy and rum %26mdash; one of the best I%26rsquo;ve ever tasted. 530 Texas Ave., 713.343.1180; sambagrillehouston.com.

Image: Samba Grille

Trattoria il Mulino

Thu, 28 Apr 2011 12:17:40 GMT

Keys to the Door: Executive chef Michele Mazza.
What%26rsquo;s Cooking: Restaurant-goers in this city are particularly proud about supporting home-grown owner/chefs. But once in a while, those who%26rsquo;ve made it big in New York and other metropolises find it compelling to expand to a city where, on an average, people dine out more than anywhere else. Those who succeed seem to realize that a fun, approachable concept %26mdash; especially an Italian one %26mdash; with a menu full of familiar, appropriately priced favorites endears us. Take Trattoria Il Mulino, the casual cousin of New York%26rsquo;s rarefied West Village shrine to Italian fare. Recently debuting at The Westin Houston, Memorial City, this new trattoria concept (the third in the U.S., counting Orlando and Atlantic City) has an open floor plan where pickled-cedar sliding doors divide the room intimately and a wall of windows shields diners from the din and heat of the kitchen without blocking our view of the frenzy behind the range on a Saturday night. Executive chef Michele Mazza%26rsquo;s dishes are inspired by the Abruzzi tradition, so expect generous portions. You%26rsquo;ll find wood-fired thin-crust pizzas such as the meatball one we enjoyed ($15), along with garlic-and-wine-steamed mussels ($14) and the trattoria%26rsquo;s signature arancini (fried Italian rice balls with a hint of Bolognese in the center, $7). Popular pastas include the house-made gnocchi with Bolognese sauce ($16), while a hearty red-sauce circuit dish such as chicken parmigiana is butterflied here to cover the entire plate, saut%26eacute;ed bone-in and cloaked with gooey mozzarella and dollops of marinara ($20). After you%26rsquo;ve eaten the last bite of your tiramisu and ricotta cheesecake, your waiter will bring you a gratis pour of the house-made Limoncello %26mdash; perhaps enticing you to stay for another round of grappa steeped with pears, blueberries, strawberries, figs and more. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 945 Gessner in The Westin Houston, Memorial City, 832.358.0600; ilmulino.com.

Image: Trattoria il Mulino

Pondicheri

Wed, 30 Mar 2011 06:38:26 GMT

Keys to the Door: Chef and owner Anita Jaisinghani.
What%26rsquo;s on the Menu: After a decade of bringing her artful twist on Indian fare to lower Westheimer, Anita Jaisinghani, chef/owner of the acclaimed Indika restaurant, has headed uptown to open her second eatery, Pondicheri, at West Ave. Named for the city in India, Pondicheri is a sleek fast-casual concept at breakfast and lunch that transforms into a polished table-service experience at dinner. The industrial-inspired interior gleams with floor-to-ceiling windows and massive steel-and-glass doors created by Houston metal artist Spencer Elliott. Gauzy, tangerine-hued sheers divide the space, while bright Indian-made textiles cover the banquettes. Those artisan-crafted chili-colored octagonal tiles? Jaisinghani scoured her homeland to find them. As for the menu, she melds the street food of her country with the home cooking of her youth. Starters such as papdi chaat (a New Delhi classic layered with semolina crackers, lentil sprouts and chaat sauces, $8) and sindhi pakoras (chickpea flour-battered vegetable fritter envelopes, $8) stay close to each dish%26rsquo;s heritage. We recommend a cooling salad %26mdash; kachumber with diced cucumber and mango ($6) or a healthful barley salad with pickled tumeric, walnuts, beets, jimaca and chiffonade of mint ($8). For dinner, feast on the goat biryani, which resembles a pot pie kept warm beneath a thin bread crust ($15), butter chicken stewed in a fenugreek-spiced tomato curry sauce ($14) or moist masala lamb chops ($16) %26mdash; in portions intended for sharing. And don%26rsquo;t forget that Jaisinghani is a former pastry chef. We swooned over her milk and cookies (essentially a chocolate chip cookie laced with cinnamon and chilis, $5) and the bournvita ice cream sandwiches made with the Indian version of Ovaltine and layered between vanilla biscuits ($6). Expect even more selections at her walk-up bakery on site. 2800 Kirby Dr. in West Ave, 713.522.2022; pondichericafe.com.

Image by Jenny Antill

Alma

Fri, 25 Feb 2011 06:15:07 GMT

Alma
2822 N. Henderson Ave., 214.827.2820; almadallas.com
Who to Know: Owner Tristan Simon, executive chef Michael Brown and manager Albert Hernandez.
Where to Sit: Simon brought in Park restaurant owner Donald Chick to create a mid-century-modern-meets-%26rsquo;80s Mexican atmosphere with a rustic flavor, using reclaimed and repurposed materials. The best seats in the house? Reserve a table downstairs. For a night on the town, meander up, where a long bar, a fireplace lounge, and more dining tables await (those don%26rsquo;t need rezzies). Chair aficionados will love the vintage seats that surround the tables here.
What to Order: Start with the queso fundido %26mdash; a blend of homemade chorizo and cheese served with white-corn tortillas %26mdash; then go for the enchilada rojo made lasagna-style with braised short ribs and guajillo sauce.
Did You Know? The word alma is Spanish for %26ldquo;soul.%26rdquo; But what really speaks to our hearts? Alma%26rsquo;s well-considered wine program of South American wines to complement the authentic Latin cuisine.

Images:
Alma. Photo by George Fiala.

Seared Mexican diver scallops at Alma. Photo by George Fiala.

Malai Thai-Vietnamese Kitchen

Fri, 25 Feb 2011 06:20:29 GMT

This Southeast Asian culinary oasis %26mdash; from husband-wife owners whose CVs include the illustrious Hillstone Restaurant Group and Dallas staple Park %26mdash; has everything from an inviting interior to a skilled set of hands in the kitchen.
3699 McKinney Ave. (in West Village) 972.591.3387; malaikitchen.com%26nbsp;%26nbsp;
Who to Know: Owners Yasmin and Braden Wages and executive chef Keith Cedotal.
Where to Sit: Our favorite spot, an enormous round table anchoring the dining room, requires at least 10 dinner mates and is lit by a custom-made work of chandelier art from local artisan Michael Sutton.%26nbsp;%26nbsp;
What to Order: Chef Cedotal, a former sous chef at Park, has it covered. Share small plates: lemongrass mussels steamed in chili coconut broth and colorful fresh summer rolls filled with shrimp, vermicelli and herbs. For lunch, go for the green papaya salad, with shredded crispy pork and spicy chili dressing. For dinner, do the steamed sea bass with chili-lime broth or the craveable shrimp pad Thai.%26nbsp;
Did You Know? The cocktail menu was expertly crafted by mixologist Jason Kosmas (Bolsa), which means you%26rsquo;ll be sipping anything-but-ordinary libations.

Images:

Malai Thai-Vietnamese Kitchen. Photo by Fernando Rojas.

Summer rolls at Malai Thai-Vietnamese Kitchen. Photo by Fernando Rojas.

Ketchup Burger Bar

Fri, 25 Feb 2011 06:12:43 GMT

It%26rsquo;s boast-worthy burgers and gourmet condiments, hence this eatery%26rsquo;s telling name, at Uptown%26rsquo;s newest burger bar, all thanks to the duo behind modern Mediterranean faves Medina Oven %26amp; Bar and Farnatchi Gourmet Oven.
3028 N. Hall St., 214.922.8222; ketchupbar.com
Who to Know: Owner Yaser Khalaf and chef/partner Jim Perry.
Where to Sit: For a great view of the kitchen in this cozy, brick-walled locale, choose a tall table by the front window.
What to Order: For the carnivorous gourmand, there%26rsquo;s the smoky Roadhouse Burger: gruy%26egrave;re, cherrywood-smoked bacon, onion rings, garlic mayo and tomato piled high on a fresh-baked brioche bun. Herbivore foodies are going to drool over the mushroom-pecan veggie burger, with brick cheese, caramelized onion and tahini lemon spread, on challah bread. Smother your fries (white truffle parmesan is our top pick) with one of the organic, signature ketchups %26mdash; out-of-the-ordinary flavors such as green tomato or chipotle.%26nbsp;%26nbsp;%26nbsp;
Did You Know? It wouldn%26rsquo;t be a Khalaf concept without a Mediterranean menu moment %26mdash; the lamb burger with feta, grilled onion, tomato and cucumber-mint spread on challah bread is just that.

Images:

Ketchup Burger Bar. Photo by George Fiala.

Turkey burger at Ketchup Burger Bar. Photo by George Fiala.

Komali

Fri, 25 Feb 2011 06:10:48 GMT

Don%26rsquo;t expect Tex-Mex here %26mdash; instead, chef Abraham Salum, of the wildly popular Salum just next door, mixes up the menu with contemporary Mexican cuisine from the Oaxaca, Guerrero, Veracruz, Yucat%26aacute;n and Central Mexico regions.
4152 Cole Ave., 214.252.0200; komalirestaurant.com
Who to Know: Chef/owner Abraham Salum and general manager Arturo Carrillo, a La Duni alum.
Where to Sit: Opt for a spot near the fireplace %26mdash; it%26rsquo;s a collage of ceramic objects and broken pottery %26mdash; and take in interior designer Julio Qui%26ntilde;ones%26rsquo; dramatically angled ceiling resembling a butterfly%26rsquo;s wing. (Qui%26ntilde;ones concocted Salum%26rsquo;s look, too.)
What to Order: The crab-stuffed poblano, the tasty Oaxaca-style tamales and the decadent chocolate flan %26mdash; it%26rsquo;s heavenly, made with goat%26rsquo;s milk cajeta. As for sexy sips, there%26rsquo;s an array of must-imbibe margaritas, including a spicy-sweet option infused with Habanero chilis.%26nbsp;
Did You Know? Komali comes from the Aztec word comal, meaning a griddle used for cooking tortillas. And since we%26rsquo;re talking tortillas, take note: The delicious ones here are handmade. Another delightful detail? Salum and Qui%26ntilde;ones (ever the discerning aesthetes) tapped Traci Cruse of Rufus Felix Flowers in Dallas to create wispy florals to match the airy interior.

Images:

Komali. Photo by George Fiala.

Crab-stuffed poblano at Komali. Photo by Manny Rodriguez.

Morton’s The Steakhouse

Fri, 25 Feb 2011 06:17:33 GMT

When this famous steakhouse outgrew its Elm Street location in Downtown, it knew just where to relocate and revamp: Reservations are filling up quickly at the new 8,500- square-foot Uptown destination, where the menu is rich but the new design concept is modern and light.
2222 McKinney Ave., 214.741.2277; mortons.com
Who to Know: General manager Jim Huntley and executive chef Rick Naon.
Where to Sit: We predict Morton%26rsquo;s new Bar 12*21 will be a destination for the see-and-be-seen bunch %26mdash; from the vibrant cocktails served to the updated menu of Bar Bites that includes smoked-salmon pizza and a crab-cake BLT.
What to Order: Request the prime rib %26mdash; it%26rsquo;s bone-in, double-cut and only available on Fridays and Saturdays %26mdash;%26nbsp;paired with a duo of honest sides such as saut%26eacute;ed fresh spinach and mushrooms or Lyonnaise potatoes. Save room for Morton%26rsquo;s Legendary Hot Chocolate Cake.
Did You Know? The lovely ladies of Cattle Baron%26rsquo;s Ball hosted the first party held in Morton%26rsquo;s new spot. When it comes to steak, we can think of few better taste levels to trust.

Images:

Tuna tartare at Morton%26rsquo;s The Steakhouse

Bar 12*21 at Morton%26rsquo;s The Steakhouse

Philippe Restaurant + Lounge

Fri, 25 Feb 2011 06:08:15 GMT

Keys to the Door: Chef/owner Philippe Schmit; interior designer Lauren Rottet; architect Shafik Rifaat; operating partner Chris Fannin.
What%26rsquo;s on the Menu: After an absence from the Houston dining scene, former Bistro Moderne exec chef Philippe Schmit is making a splash at his eponymous restaurant in the new BLVD Place development. Ask the Gallic chef what his gleaming, two-story French eatery is all about, and he%26rsquo;ll more likely tell you he doesn%26rsquo;t want it to be: stuffy, formal, intimidating or rife with attitude. Instead, working with widely acclaimed Houston-based interior designer Lauren Rottet, Schmit%26rsquo;s team has pulled the white cloths off the tables, appointed the environs upstairs with a soothing palette of whites, grays, blacks and forest wood hues, and papered the walls with architectural renderings and black-and-white photos of relics from France%26rsquo;s past. Downstairs, those swinging by for a bourbon or a Lillet blanc on the rocks will find manly leather lounges and cowhide pillows and ottomans that encourage one to idle away their day while old French films play on a loop in the back of the bar. With more than two years to contemplate his menu, Schmit has compiled an enticing assortment of dishes, both small and large plates, from a complex lobster bisque with light cod quenelles ($9) to spicy duck confit tamales ($9) that bridge his homeland ingredients with local flavors. Although the menu headings might make you snicker (%26ldquo;Flirtations,%26rdquo; %26ldquo;Sumptuous,%26rdquo; %26ldquo;Contained Decadence%26rdquo;), Schmit%26rsquo;s dishes are thoughtfully articulated. %26ldquo;Main Attractions%26rdquo; include a tr%26egrave;s classique parchment paper%26ndash;wrapped dorade steamed with parsnips, cabbage, orange zest and a splash of vermouth ($22) and a hearty Cowboy bone-in rib-eye steak with frites ($64), a share plate for two. Playing around with the tried and true, Schmit replaces meat with duck for a Frenchified shepherd%26rsquo;s pie ($23) and deftly plays with Moroccan spices in everything from a steak tartare with almonds, raisins and harissa ($8) to strewn lamb shanks, braised and served with couscous, apricots and dates ($26). 1800 Post Oak Blvd. in BLVD Place, 713.439.1000; philippehouston.com.

Image: Photos by Shannon O%26rsquo;Hara.

Tqla

Fri, 25 Feb 2011 06:04:14 GMT

Keys to the Door: Chef/partner Tommy Birdwell, GM/partner Scott Lindsey and partners Christina Lampe and Mike Nelson.
What%26rsquo;s on the Menu: In case you%26rsquo;re wondering how to pronounce the name of this south-by-southwest restaurant and bar on the Washington Avenue corridor, it%26rsquo;s %26ldquo;tequila.%26rdquo; And as for the bar menu, we doubt any blanco, reposado or a%26ntilde;ejo variety of this bracing agave spirit has eluded Tqla%26rsquo;s expansive list (reputedly the city%26rsquo;s largest) %26mdash; 170 and counting. Selections are overseen by GM Scott Lindsey, a certified Tequilier (a title on par with %26ldquo;master sommelier%26rdquo; in the wine world), who chooses only 100 percent blue agave tequilas. He and his bartenders mix them to create fresh, bright-tasting infusions, sangr%26iacute;as, palomas, margaritas and more. In the back of the house, CIA-trained chef Tommy Birdwell mans the range. Having worked with two of the godfathers of Southwestern cuisine, Mark Miller and Stephan Pyles, Birdwell draws on his vast SW experience to create tasty plates such as wild mushroom tamale napped with mushroom crema ($8), chile-seared ahi tuna glazed with jalape%26ntilde;o jelly and field greens ($12) and pumpkin-seed-crusted salmon on a bed of green-chile-laced mashed potatoes ($17). As for the interiors, Lisa Pope Westerman of Gensler was tapped to fashion the look without resorting to Southwestern clich%26eacute;s such as adobe and cow skulls. Instead, she envisioned the landscape of Jalisco, from its mesas to its mountains, deserts and beaches, and let the Mexican-influenced design flow subtly throughout the loft space. 4601 Washington Ave., 281.501.3237; tqlahouston.com.

Image: Photo by Jack Thompson.

Ava Kitchen %26 Whiskey Bar

Fri, 25 Feb 2011 05:59:25 GMT

Keys to the Door: Schiller-Del Grande Restaurant Group, operating partner Susan Bennett, general manager Rawad Semaan.
What%26rsquo;s on the Menu: Lonnie Schiller and chef Robert Del Grande (of RDG + Bar Annie fame) have just unveiled their latest concept: Ava Kitchen %26amp; Whiskey Bar at West Ave (with its Italian alter ego, Pizzeria Alto, opening upstairs as we go to press). Candice Schiller, SDG%26rsquo;s interior guru, has captured the essence of an urban bistro with a picture-window view onto bustling Kirby Drive. The sophisticated interior is bathed in cornflower blue with decidedly French accents %26mdash; reproduction foxed mirrors, zinc-topped tables and mighty 15-arm wooden chandeliers. She%26rsquo;s balanced gray tones with a pop of Indian fuchsia velvet atop the cozy banquettes (the most covetable seats in the house). Del Grande and his team have concocted a menu of small and large plates, with ingredients culled from France, Spain, Italy and Morocco. The dishes re-imagine European classics in a way that honors the tenets of the originals. Our favorites: smoked Muscovy duck breast with duck liver mousse and apple endive salad ($12), an earthy rigatoni with bolognese ($14) and the best tart tatin %26mdash; apple, bien s%26ucirc;r %26mdash; we%26rsquo;ve ever put in our mouths ($8.50). If you%26rsquo;re craving an authentic Neapolitan-style pizza, meander upstairs to Pizzeria Alto. Del Grande%26rsquo;s take on chef-driven pizza pie is sure to spark debate on just who is serving the best slice in town. 2800 Kirby Dr. in West Ave, 713.386.6460; avaalto.com.

Images: Photos by Jenny Antill.

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Piola

Thu, 23 Dec 2010 01:40:23 GMT

Keys to the Door: Brothers Bruno and Michele Cencini.
What%26rsquo;s Cooking: If this isn%26rsquo;t an American food love story, I don%26rsquo;t know what is. Italian-born Bruno Cencini, in Miami on holiday, was hankering for a calzone. As he wandered with his daughter from one Italian pizzeria to another, Cencini couldn%26rsquo;t find a place to quell his craving until someone steered him to Piola, an authentic Italian import entrenched in Miami for more than a decade. Obsessed with Piola%26rsquo;s crisp, wood-fired calzone, he soon was back for the famed thin-crust 12%26rdquo; pizzas %26mdash; more than 50 offerings including the San Daniele, topped with paper-thin slices of real-deal prosciutto crudo ($14), and the Ortomisto with eggplant, spinach, sweet peppers and broccoli ($13). Eventually this former jeweler, now based in Houston, veered toward the pillowy gnocchi ($10 to $12.50), pastas ($9 to $13), and antipasti and salads made with authentic ingredients including mozzarella di bufala, mascarpone and prosciutto imported from Italy. The casual eatery reminded him of his beloved pizzas back in the old country, so he enlisted his brother Michele and contacted the Italian concept%26rsquo;s founders (also brothers) to secure the rights to bring Piola to Houston. Head to midtown for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. Throughout the day, the Italian-made, wood-fired ovens crisp up thin and thinner pizza crusts in a bustling trattoria-like setting just off, off, off the Ponte Vecchio. 3201 Louisiana St., 713.524.8222; piola.it.

Fin Sushi Lounge

Thu, 23 Dec 2010 02:09:00 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Diep Tran, general manager Raymond Nguyen.
Ready to Roll: The masterminds behind sleek Japanese fusion favorite Sushi Axiom once again have us craving eel rolls and edamame %26mdash; this time with Fin Sushi, a 4,000-square-foot, impossibly hip, indigo-hued restaurant-lounge combo within Cedar Springs%26rsquo; dynamic Ilume development. Eatery number four in owner Diep Tran%26rsquo;s palatable portfolio, Fin borrows the usual design suspects from its siblings: a towering glass wine wall, a 10-foot water wall and a tropical fish tank. But it shakes things up with the can%26rsquo;t-miss shimmering lion fish mosaic, an intimate dining room with chat-conducive teal banquettes, and a DJ booth for dancing into the wee hours. Sushi chef Napolean Escamilla knows some like it hot, so try the Hamachi Heaven Roll with spicy crab meat and sliced jalape%26ntilde;os. More braggable dishes: pho, the authentic Vietnamese beef noodle soup; Korean ribs; and an ultra-flavorful ginger lime tofu. 4123 Cedar Springs Road (in the Ilume development), 214.443.3840; finsushidallas.com.

Image: Oh to be a fly on that (wine) wall: Fin Sushi. Photo by Jonathan Zizzo.

Saint Ann Restaurant %26 Bar

Thu, 23 Dec 2010 02:05:55 GMT

Keys to the Door: General manager Gabriel Parra, executive chef Michael Guerrero.
Bold School: When we stepped inside Saint Ann Restaurant %26amp; Bar, the historic elementary school turned eatery in the 17-block district known as Harwood %26mdash;%26nbsp;the name comes from developer Harwood International %26mdash; we felt like we forgot our hall pass. Sure, rows of desks have been replaced with rows of modern wooden dining tables and there%26rsquo;s nary a locker in sight, but with the original brick walls, a wall-size chalkboard for specials and dinner menus cleverly printed on marked-up notebook paper, it%26rsquo;s not hard to fall into old grade-school habits. But executive chef Michael Guerrero (Abacus, Rathbun%26rsquo;s Blue Plate Kitchen) brings his curriculum of New American cuisine to the kitchen with dishes such as seared scallops with pepper jack poblano grits, a shrimp po%26rsquo; boy and a club sandwich with a twist: oven-roasted turkey meets ham glazed in Dr Pepper. Opt for a spot at the bar %26mdash; look down: you%26rsquo;re standing on thick glass, suspended over the building%26rsquo;s original floor beams from 1927 %26mdash;%26nbsp;or in the wood-and-glass dining room, or on Saint Ann%26rsquo;s massive, tree-covered patio with a bustling bar and fire pits for chillier nights. For extra credit, sample a few of the establishment%26rsquo;s signature cocktails, including Teacher%26rsquo;s Pet, a concoction of gin and St. Germain liqueur. If only the school cafeteria had been like this. 2501 N. Harwood St., 214.782.9807; saintanndallas.com.

Image: The seared scallops with pepper jack poblano grits. Photo by Christopher Whitten.

Duo

Thu, 23 Dec 2010 02:12:11 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners Lynae Fearing and Tracy Rathbun.
Multiple Personality: When the brick space two doors down from their own Shinsei restaurant became vacant, owners Lynae Fearing and Tracy Rathbun %26mdash; the restaurateur wives of chefs Dean Fearing and Kent Rathbun %26mdash; knew it was time to cook up their next project, Duo. Frequent hostesses themselves, Lynae and Tracy envisioned Duo as a catchall for all things entertaining %26mdash; hence the homey, loft-style space designed by Greg O%26rsquo;Neil that houses the multi-faceted concept. Duo is an event venue by night and a retail space by day, wherein a dozen moveable tables are topped with Lynae and Tracy%26rsquo;s go-to items for wining and dining, including stackable mixing bowls from Joseph Joseph; pre-measured spices by TSP Spices; and vintage aprons for tot chefs by Kitchen Couture Cupcakes %26amp; Cartwheels. There is an urbane living room at Duo, too, with eco-friendly sofas by BKind3 (also for sale) and a long dining table arranged with purchasable flatware, place-card holders, myriad linens and more. In the back, the pi%26egrave;ce de r%26eacute;sistance: a shiny kitchen armed with Viking Professional appliances and Lynae and Tracy%26rsquo;s husbands%26rsquo; fave cutlery %26mdash; to slice like Kent you%26rsquo;ll need Porsche knives and to dice like Dean you%26rsquo;ll want to take a set of Shuns. More Duo characteristics to dish about: In the back room beneath a sparkling chandelier, Stems of Dallas %26mdash; owned by SMU grads Kate Hooper and Katy Utley %26mdash; offers bouquets and arrangements to be ordered at a moment%26rsquo;s notice. One reason an in-house flowery will prove handy? Duo will double as the location for all f%26ecirc;tes imaginable. From cooking demos to cocktail affairs, we don%26rsquo;t think there%26rsquo;s anything this Duo can%26rsquo;t do. 7721 Inwood Road, 214.884.2979; duoallthingsculinary.com.

Images: Duo

Américas

Mon, 29 Nov 2010 01:37:15 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Michael Cord%26uacute;a, corporate chef David Cord%26uacute;a, general manager Angeles Due%26ntilde;as.
What%26rsquo;s on the Menu: Michael Cord%26uacute;a and his talented progeny, Paris-trained chef David Cord%26uacute;a, never disappoint when it comes to capturing the drama of a meal out. Their latest pan-Latin endeavor, Am%26eacute;ricas in River Oaks Shopping Center, delivers everything you%26rsquo;ve come to expect from their New World anthropological explorations. The design of this third outpost of Am%26eacute;ricas %26mdash; the original is on Post Oak, with a second in the Woodlands %26mdash; was again conceptualized by Chicago superstar designer Jordan Mozer. He created a tapestry of South, Central and North American cultures and foodstuffs (chocolate, tomatoes, beans, potatoes, cassava, corn, peppers and squash %26mdash; essentials in the Milpa method of harvesting crops) to adorn the sensual surrounds of the second-floor space. Mozer weaves mystery with intimacy through curvaceous, custom resin chairs, worn leather draped over columns and chairs, and blown-glass chandeliers in playful, amorphous shapes. Cuts of beef and fish take center stage among the entr%26eacute;es, but veer to the left side of the menu for smaller samplings, such as a flight of ceviches ($16 %26mdash; the salmon is a standout) or a quad of mini taquitos ($16). From plaintain-crusted shrimp to beef short ribs, you can nibble your way from one robust, visually artful dish to the next. And whatever you do, don%26rsquo;t miss the small plates of smoked lamb lollichops ($14) or the lobster corndogs ($11). River Oaks Shopping Center, 2040 W. Gray; 832.200.1492; cordua.com/americas.

Image: David Cord%26uacute;a and Michael Cord%26uacute;a; by Jenny Antill

Eddie V’s Prime Seafood

Mon, 29 Nov 2010 02:58:17 GMT

Keys to the Door: General manager James Powers; executive chef Robert Rhoades.

What%26rsquo;s Cooking: A little over a year ago, this Austin prime seafood export made a splash in when it opened at CityCentre in Memorial. Now the big-league, surf-and-turf hot spot has opened another location inside the loop, becoming the first eatery to open in yet another sleek new shopping/dining/living area, West Ave. Eddie V%26rsquo;s schools its chefs and general managers at Foley School of Fish in Boston, so you%26rsquo;ll find a raw bar brimming with fresh catch such as briny oysters on the half shell, Jonah crab claws, shrimp and lobster galore. Standouts from the surf side include apps such as tartare of ahi tuna ($13) and jumbo lump crab with spicy chive remoulade ($16), plus generous entrees such as lemon sole with a light parmesan crust napped with lemon garlic butter ($26). On the turf side, mighty black angus beef cuts (especially the superior bone-in varieties) sate the meat-craving crowd. Dessert isn%26rsquo;t an afterthought here, either. Our fave: the hot bananas Foster butter cake with butter pecan ice cream %26mdash; but whisper to the waiter before its arrival to skip the showy flamb%26eacute; step. It%26rsquo;s even tastier without it. Open for dinner only. 2800 Kirby Dr. in West Ave, 713.874.1800; eddiev.com.

Image: Eddie V's Prime Seafood. Photo by Daniel Ortiz.

Zimm’s Little Deck

Mon, 29 Nov 2010 03:03:01 GMT

Keys to the Door: Dan Zimmerman and Mark Zimmerman, chef Jeramie Robison.

What%26rsquo;s Cooking: Like father like son(s). Lawyer and businessman Steve Zimmerman broke into the Montrose area 40 years ago when he started buying property in the burgeoning neighborhood, including the historic La Colombe d%26rsquo;Or hotel. Now his 20-something sons are making their own mark in the %26lsquo;hood. The result is Zimm%26rsquo;s Little Deck, a hangout that blends New Orleans with St. Paul de Vence, the village in the South of France that the family frequented during Dan and Mark Zimmerman%26rsquo;s boyhood. The name is an homage to mummy Becky Zimmerman%26rsquo;s Zimm%26rsquo;s Martini %26amp; Wine Bar. Sit indoors or outside near the p%26eacute;tanque court, and nurse a craft beer or wine. Menu highlights include croque monsieur hush puppies ($6) and po%26rsquo; boys such as the Huey Long, stuffed with Cajun-spiced barbecue shrimp ($13), and the Gourmet PBJ with hazelnut butter and seasonal preserves made in house ($9). 601 Richmond Ave., 713.527.8328; zimmslittledeck.com.

Image: Zimm's Little Deck. Photo by Tim Runyon.

Flora %26 Muse

Wed, 27 Oct 2010 12:18:37 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Hayri Gurbuz, chef David Luna.
What%26#8217;s on the Menu: The latest concept to bloom in the CityCentre complex off Interstate 10 is Flora %26amp; Muse %26#8212; a flower shop, bistro and European-style patisserie bundled into one pretty bouquet by Turkish-born veteran hotelier Hayri Gurbuz. Architect Ted Heesch of Mitchell Carlson Stone and interior designer Laura Umansky of the Laura U Collection designed the whimsical 6,000-square-foot space, where a flower cart brims with sunflowers, roses and spider lilies, and the patisserie counter boasts a hearth oven. The dining area invites you to settle into a banquette patterned after a Victorian tufted sofa or one of the vintage mismatched chairs amid tables lit by chandeliers. Chef David Luna (Shade, Canopy) and pastry chef William Carlisle serve breakfast, lunch and dinner %26#8212; not to mention afternoon tea %26#8212; daily. The ambitious menu includes Belgian waffles and sweet and savory breakfast cr%26#234;pes; stone-oven flatbreads (such as earthy roast pear, gorgonzola, onion jam and hazelnut pizzette); pressed hot sandwiches (Black Forest ham Monte Cristo, anyone?); and salads (the crab salad on tender butter lettuce in a citrus vinaigrette is so %26#8220;ladies who lunch%26#8221;). For dessert, ask for Carlisle%26#8217;s seasonal fresh fruit crostata on a puff pastry %26#224; la mode. Even the check is unique: It arrives in a clever leather journal, where you can read notes left by other diners and leave your own musings. CityCentre; 12860 Queensbury Lane713.463.6873; floraandmuse.com.

Image: Photo by Jack Thompson

Decco Café

Wed, 27 Oct 2010 12:17:36 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners Oscar Aguilar and Alejandro Garcia of Ceteris Hospitality Group; executive chef Emilio Chacon.%26nbsp;
What%26#8217;s on the Menu: Freshening up the restaurant at the Decorative Center Houston is akin to reupholstering your favorite chaise with a Lee Jofa print: Every few years, you crave something new. We fondly remember when caterer Jackson Hicks opened an eatery in the grand atrium at the to-the-trade space. Next came A Fare Extraordinaire, which echoed the catering tradition by hosting events that reached far beyond the design-centric world. Now the powers that be have tapped Oscar Aguilar and Alejandro Garcia of Ceteris Hospitality Group (Mexico%26#8217;s Deli) to create the aptly named Decco Caf%26#233;. With the help of Area Architecture, they%26#8217;ve switched out some fixtures, bar decor, flatware and the like, and brought in Emilio Chacon (La Griglia, Ruggles Grill, Mexico%26#8217;s Deli) to create breakfast and lunch menus that will grab the attention of their captive audience, as well as anyone who stops by from the neighborhood. Wake up to homemade croissants with house-made jam and agave-nectar whipped butter ($4), breakfast tacos ($2.50), or a hearty Chilaquiles ($9), perfectly spiced with a tomatillo sauce. Lunch brings entr%26#233;e salads such as the never-remove-from-this-menu steak and avocado salad ($12), Mexican torta ($9), Decco burgers ($10), even pastas ($10). Does furniture shopping have you famished? Try the three-course prix fix for $14 %26#8212; quite affordable for the interior designer who calls this cantina his or her very own cafeteria. Decorative Center Houston,5120 Woodway Dr.; 713.963.8273.

Naan Sushi

Wed, 27 Oct 2010 02:25:38 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Peter %26#8220;MK%26#8221; Kim, executive chef Tam Huynh.

On a Roll: Bento boxes and tuna towers will fill the roomy corner space at the Gables Villa Rosa development once more. This time, it%26#8217;s Naan Sushi that has landed the prime Uptown address formerly inhabited by Geisha House. Owner Peter %26#8220;MK%26#8221; Kim%26#8217;s original, accolade-winning Japanese sushi spot is already the toast of the town at The Shops at Legacy %26#8212; its late-night club scene is as popular as its premium rolls %26#8212; and the second Uptown location promises equal buzz. Exec chef Tam Huynh, previously in the kitchen at Steel, packs plenty of gourmet skills. At Naan, he%26#8217;s crafting everything from delicious university-named specialty rolls (the TCU boasts crab, salmon, tobiko and scallions, while the SMU is packed with shrimp tempura, avocado, cream cheese and crab meat) to prime short-rib kebabs with spicy wasabi cocktail sauce. And for not-so-adventurous palates, there%26#8217;s even a menu of %26#8220;west side%26#8221; entrees %26#8212; think classics such as cheeseburgers and club sandwiches. For the night owls, Naan is open until 2 am, with a swank Orange Bar with enough seating for 120. It%26#8217;s wasabi hot. 2600 Cedar Springs Road, in the Gables Villa Rosa; developmentnaansushi.com.%26nbsp;

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Image: The MK Roll%26nbsp;at Naan Sushi

Nosh Euro Bistro and Bar

Wed, 27 Oct 2010 02:26:48 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners Celeste and Avner Samuel, chef/partner Jon Stevens.
Mother of Reinvention: Chef Avner Samuel has put his lavish Aurora under the knife for quite the nip and tuck. He and wife Celeste joined forces with notable chef Jon Stevens (Neighborhood Services, Aurora), together refashioning the opulent space at The Shops at Highland Park into the new Nosh Euro Bistro and Bar. This casual eatery retains those gorgeous zebrawood walls and the private wine cellar, but they%26#8217;re the only formal touches that remain from Aurora %26#8212; white tablecloths have been replaced by wood-topped tables, the gu%26#233;ridon carts are rolled out only when the %26#8220;Big Fish%26#8221; dish for two is ordered, and a flat-screen TV has been mounted in the new bar. The expanded and open space seats 75, with additional seating at a food bar directly attached to the open kitchen %26#8212; which means a front-row seat to kitchen dramatics, if you know Chef Avner.%26nbsp;Bursting with European and Mediterranean-inspired fare, the menu includes starters such as crispy Pacific oysters, tartare of ahi tuna and spiced beef cigars. The mains we suggest? Grilled beef tenderloin medallions with green peppercorn butter and cheddar-and-bacon potatoes, and the espresso-braised beef short rib with%26nbsp;cheddar grits and blistered tomatoes. With operating hours of 11 am till 11 pm Mondays through Fridays, and 5 to 11 pm on Saturdays, you%26#8217;ll have plenty of time to, well, get your nosh on. 4216 Oak Lawn Ave.; 214.528.9400; nosheurobistro.com.

Image: Nosh Euro Bistro and Bar. Photo George Fiala.

La Fiorentina

Wed, 27 Oct 2010 02:19:54 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner Alberto Lombardi, executive chef Marcelo Gallegos.
Tuscan Territory: Restaurateur Alberto Lombardi is staking yet another claim in the Knox-Travis foodie scene. The latest endeavor to join his pack of hot spots there (Toulouse, Sangria, Taverna) is La Fiorentina, a gourmet update of the charming old church on Cole Avenue that housed Chip%26#8217;s Old Fashioned Hamburgers. To piece together his new Tuscan steakhouse, Lombardi tapped designer Ron Guest. Of course, the Lombardi Family Concepts alum behind the interiors at Toulouse and Taverna couldn%26#8217;t resist the new project %26#8212; perhaps because it entailed a trio of trips to Italy in search of all the authentic details. Roll out the rusticity: La Fiorentina%26#8217;s tableware, crystal, drapes and tiles were all sourced from the motherland. The massive white chandelier hanging from the vaulted ceiling? It%26#8217;s of Italian origin, too. Exec chef Marcelo Gallegos%26#8217; cuisine is as authentic, with a range of juicy offerings from a petite filet to a 14-ounce rib-eye to the star of the show, a 27-ounce porterhouse %26#8212; naturally, fiorentina is the moniker for that cut in Italian. 4501 Cole Ave.; 972.528.6170; lafiorentinadallas.com.

Image:%26nbsp; La Fiorentina%26#8217;s namesake porterhouse. Photo Brad Thedinger.

Attention Cookie Fiends

Fri, 01 Oct 2010 06:00:58 GMT

The grand opening of Michael%26#8217;s Cookie Jar had everyone licking their lips. The festivities were marked by an official ribbon cutting and hoards of eager cookie monsters happy to indulge for a good cause, as ten percent of the day%26#8217;s proceeds went to%26nbsp; Big Brothers Big Sisters 60th anniversary celebration. This sweet spot located in West University, is sure to be a hit amongst anyone looking to give sweet treats, or adorn their home with gingerbread baked goods come Christmas time! Formally of New York, Chef Michael Savino honed his skills under the leadership of famed chefs at the Culinary Institute of America before heading south to work at the Four Seasons, first in Los Colinas then Houston. And what skills they are! Available cookies include the basics we all know and love (everything from chocolate chip to snickerdoodle), bite size tea cookies, seasonal creations and made-to-order treats like the one in the above picture. Cookies anyone?%26nbsp; Michael's Cookie Jar 5330 Weslayan St.; 713.771.8603; michaelscookiejar.com

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Ristorante Cavour at Hotel Granduca

Tue, 28 Sep 2010 05:37:54 GMT

We%26#8217;ve always loved the charming Hotel Granduca %26#8212; a 123-room boutique hotel tucked into the Uptown Park shopping and residential area that articulates the vision of old-world comfort, service and style held by its Italian-born owner, Giorgio Borlenghi, president of The Interfin Companies. Now the hotel%26#8217;s Ristorante Cavour (named for Italy%26#8217;s first prime minister, the Count of Cavour) has become the chic, low-key meeting place for those who wheel, deal and socialize on an international scale. New exec chef Renato De Pirro%26#8217;s Tuscan-inspired menu is steeped with classical favorites, such as pillow-light homemade gnocchi napped with a tomato, basil and ricotta sauce ($14) and lobster risotto with zucchini enriched with lobster bisque ($22);. De Pirro, a native of Tuscany, headed off to culinary school at age 16 and worked under the European apprentice tradition for Gennaro Villella %26#8212; one of Italy%26#8217;s most noteworthy chefs, a gentleman who collaborated with restaurateur Sirio Maccioni of Le Cirque when he conceptualized Osteria del Circo. When Maccioni brought the Circo concept to Las Vegas%26#8217; Bellagio Hotel, he tapped De Pirro as executive chef. To taste De Pirro%26#8217;s exceptional cuisine, be sure to book ahead; Cavour%26#8217;s 18 tables are snapped up quickly.%26nbsp;1080 Uptown Park Blvd., %26nbsp;713.418.1000; granducahouston.com. %26nbsp;

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Image:%26nbsp;%26nbsp;Chef Renato De Pirro,%26nbsp;Giorgio Borlenghi.

Urban Taco

Fri, 27 Aug 2010 05:25:15 GMT

Keys to the Door: Co-owners Markus Pineyro and John E. Tuma.
Atypical Taqueria: When Urban Taco first opened its doors at Mockingbird Station three years ago, it was love. (And we weren%26#8217;t alone.) Now, there%26#8217;s a new UT in town as owners Markus Pineyro and John Tuma bring their latest taco eatery to McKinney Avenue%26#8217;s Uptown scene. The new locale is far from your everyday taqueria, with a more-evolved menu evoking Pineyro%26#8217;s obsession with the gourmet street food of Acapulco and Mexico City, his hometown. Offerings include the tasty faves from the original locale, plus the incarnation of several spicy new plates, including a three-chili-crusted Ahi tuna and a haba%26#241;ero-maple-glazed flat iron steak. Inside the stuccoed hacienda, traditional Mexican decor takes on a contemporary vibe, with tables made of recycled coconut husks, orange Ultrasuede chairs and a swank chef%26#8217;s table specially set for a tequila tasting. In fact, said beloved liquor is kept on tap, making for an endless supply of tequilas infused with seasonal fruits. But the biggest buzz among Uptown%26#8217;s alfresco-loving audience involves the street-side patio and garden %26#8212; all the better for being seen sipping those sweet tequila cocktails. 3411 McKinney Ave., 214.922.7080; urban-taco.com.

Image: Dos Equis Amber barbacoa tacos at Urban Taco. Photo by Devin McNallough.

The Common Table

Fri, 27 Aug 2010 04:37:20 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner/developer Brian Twomey, partner Corey Pond, general manager Matthew Ellis.

Colloquial Cravings: When restaurateur Brian Twomey added The Common Table to his list of projects %26#8212; he%26#8217;s revamping the Village Theater and opening The Marquee Club in Highland Park Village, and he oversees Plano%26#8217;s Loft 610 %26#8212; the idea was to create a casual tavern where the menu was as edited as its beer and wine offerings. After sprucing up the former Lola digs on Fairmount Street, Twomey struck his perfect balance. Small plates such as cornmeal-crusted calamari and pulled-pork spring rolls are perfectly sharable and entrees range from the Camburger (a cheeseburger wherein cheddar is substituted with Camembert) to fresh, corn-fed chicken with roasted-corn succotash. By far, the most uncommon highlight is TCT%26#8217;s impressive lineup of libations, which packs more than 50 hard-to-find bottled and on-tap beers. The scene here is irresistibly charming: The 1930s bungalow%26#8217;s original hardwood floors and fireplace are still intact, but several modern touches add some edge, including the horseshoe-shaped bar and the orange leather banquettes. This is the first and only time we%26#8217;ll relish being called Commoners. 2917 Fairmount St., 214.880.7414; thecommontable.com.

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Image: Interior, The Common Table. Photo by Daniel Driensky.

Dive Coastal Cuisine

Fri, 27 Aug 2010 04:33:15 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner/chef Franchesca Nor.

High Dive: Short Stop, Food From Galilee, The Festive Kitchen %26#8212; Snider Plaza brims with speedy eateries for a quick lunch or to-go dinner. I%26#8217;m now adding a delightfully fresh, order-at-the-counter restaurant to the list: Dive Coastal Cuisine. Created by chef Franchesca Nor, a former favorite server at Neighborhood Services, Dive occupies the old Dunkin%26#8217; Donuts space on Rankin Street and boasts dizzying, delicious chalkboard selections. %26#8220;It%26#8217;s traditional coastal things that I put my twist on,%26#8221; says Nor. %26#8220;Hence, the name %26#8216;Coastal%26#8217; %26#8212; I can%26#8217;t pin it to just one coast!%26#8221; Nor, a California native, packs her menu with skinny dips such as Moroccan spiced carrot with Lavash crackers ($4); a ceviche of the day with plantain chips ($10); and a seared Ahi tuna wrap with wasabi cucumber slaw ($9). The counter is open seven days a week, 11 am to 9 pm, but there are 13 tables if you wish to stay, making it easy for one to snag a spot in the midst of Nor%26#8217;s beachy decor %26#8212; high, wooden-slat ceilings and giant clam shells filled with succulents. It%26#8217;s one fresh culinary getaway. 3404 Rankin St. in Snider Plaza, 214.891.1700; dive-dallas.com.

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Image: Interior, Dive Coastal Cuisine. Photo by D. Lacey.

Perry’s Steakhouse %26 Grille

Fri, 27 Aug 2010 05:34:44 GMT

Keys to the Door: Founder Chris Perry, general manager Howard Cortes, executive chef Sammy Holmes.
In its Prime: We%26#8217;re all about impressive lineage, and Perry%26#8217;s Steakhouse %26amp; Grille has just that. New in Uptown and adjacent to the modernist 1900 McKinney residences, the chophouse has climbed a rather impressive culinary ladder: It was founded in 1979 as a family-owned butcher shop and has since become a much-loved steakhouse in Houston and Austin. Dallas%26#8217; multilevel dining room is rich with mahogany tones, leather-clad banquettes, an open-view wine cellar and tiered chandeliers that call to mind Nick and Nora Charles%26#8217; posh Art Deco penthouse. The fare at Perry%26#8217;s is an art form all its own %26#8212; the prime beef, for example, is dry-aged in-house for 28 days %26#8212; and includes chateaubriand for two carved tableside, savory Australian lobster tail and sides such as saut%26#233;ed and sherried mushrooms and divine lyonnaise potatoes. Indeed, modern-day Nicks and Noras will love it here. 2000 McKinney Ave., 214.855.5151; perryssteakhouse.com.

Image: Interior, Perry's Steakhouse %26amp; Grille. Photo by Mark Bumgarner.

Green Room

Fri, 27 Aug 2010 05:36:16 GMT

Keys to the Door: Co-owners Taylor Allday and Zenon Oprysk, general manager Sarah Smith.
Green Scene: There%26#8217;s a rumble coming from Deep Ellum %26#8212; and Taylor Allday and Zenon Oprysk are partly responsible. The alums of the legendary Green Room restaurant (the 90s fave that closed its doors in 2006) are reviving the beloved hot spot known for its rock-and-roll vibe and even more rockin%26#8217; cuisine. The Elm Street eatery is once again ablaze in neon %26#8212; by way of its witty green %26#8220;ROOM%26#8221; sign outside, above the entrance %26#8212; and seasoned foodies are thrilled. But while the location and the name might be the same, the Green Room%26#8217;s cuisine is anything but. Executive chef Joel Harloff (Mi Piaci, Dali Wine Bar %26amp; Restaurant) has created a menu of modern American dishes for your 21st-century palate, with main courses including braised lamb shank and pan-roasted halibut cheek and skate wing, served as a duo, with roasted-garlic couscous. We%26#8217;re intrigued by the Feed Me four-course, prix-fixe, where Harloff crafts a unique menu for your table and selects the wine pairings. Upstairs, the rooftop bar with its glittery, downtown feel offers a menu of savory snacks %26#8212; think bratwurst made locally and served with a delish, house-made sauerkraut, or crunchy pretzels with sea salt and cider vinegar. Urbane, indeed, all the way to the roof. 2715 Elm St., 214.744.7666; greenroomdallas.com.

Image: Interior, Green Room. Photo by Rebecca Lorrine Photography.%26nbsp;%26nbsp;

Cyclone Anaya's World Class Mexican Kitchen

Mon, 26 Jul 2010 06:01:27 GMT

For the last 40 years, Cyclone Anaya%26#8217;s World Class Mexican Kitchen %26#8212; named for its wrestling founder, Jesus %26#8220;Cyclone Anaya%26#8221; Valencia %26#8212; has stayed true to its %26#8220;Fine Mex%26#8221; roots. But every concept needs a little shaking up, so two of Valencia%26#8217;s offspring, Vienna Molder and Rico Valencia, have lured Aussie chef Jason Gould (late of Gravitas) to add spice to the menu and serve as their chief R%26amp;D guy. Of course, there%26#8217;s something in it for both chef and restaurant. C.A. gets the bragging rights, along with a new weekday lunch menu with lighter additions and chef-driven dishes such as cedar-plank grilled salmon and roasted duck empanadas, plus timely dinner specials, all created as the family readies its new CityCentre outpost this summer. Gould, meanwhile, is prepping a new concept of his own, bankrolled by the Valencia clan. Curious about what this classically trained chef brings to the table? (After all, this is his first foray into the Mexican food arena.) We left raving about his slow-roasted carnitas lightened with a fresh salsa of watermelon and jicama; pulled short-rib sandwich with spicy coleslaw and ancho barbecue sauce served with sweet-potato fries; and the fudge brownie laced with tamarind. Looks like this boy wonder from down under knows how to bridge tastes on both sides of our border. Locations and menus, cycloneanaya.com.%26nbsp;

Image: Chef Jason Gould.

Sprinkles Cupcakes

Mon, 26 Jul 2010 06:03:51 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners Candace and Charles Nelson, general managers Jackie Kosako and Julie Linnhart.
What%26#8217;s Baking: In the complicated, competitive world where diminutive cakes compete for %26#8220;best cupcake%26#8221; honors, Sprinkles founder Candace Nelson reigns supreme. This trained pastry chef created the first bakery devoted to nothing but good ole American cupcakes in Beverly Hills in 2005, and the Hollywood celebrities ate it up, with lines forming around the block. Our Sprinkles can be found in Highland Village, in a quaint cocoa-hued storefront facing Westheimer. So whether you%26#8217;re a Southern soul craving red velvet spread with cream cheese icing and topped with Sprinkles%26#8217; signature sugar-paste dot, a chocaholic jonesing for a chocolate-marshmallow-filled concoction or a vanilla/vanilla classicist, for $3.25 apiece you can have your fill of dozens of toothsome varieties. Every night, we%26#8217;re told, Sprinkles%26#8217; leftover cupcakes (if there are any) are delivered to Houston food banks and police and fire departments. Throughout the year, Sprinkles%26#8217; collective charitable efforts (which have culminated in $1.5 million in donations) benefit nonprofit endeavors ranging from children%26#8217;s hospitals to environmental agencies. How sweet is that? Highland Village Shopping Center4014 Westheimer Road, 713.871.9929; sprinkles.com.

Michael's Cookie Jar

Mon, 26 Jul 2010 05:58:34 GMT

If you can never turn down a freshly baked chocolate chip cookie, a cake-y walnut brownie or a crunchy almond biscotti, make tracks to Michael%26#8217;s Cookie Jar in West U. Owner Michael Savino is a CIA-trained pastry chef who paid his dues in the kitchens of the Four Seasons hotels in Houston and Dallas before hanging his own shingle. Here, he focuses on nothing but cookies %26#8212; a medium he calls the perfect combination of rustic baking techniques and detailed pastry work. He%26#8217;s perfected myriad varieties, from home-style American favorites (including snickerdoodles, his best-selling drop cookie) to fancy iced sugar creations, cut out and decorated in dozens of themes, as well as recipes culled from vintage European cookbooks and even his grandmother%26#8217;s kitchen. In the 1,500-square-foot storefront, an open kitchen backs the glass cookie counter %26#8212; all the better to watch the bakers making dough with all the good stuff, such as unsalted butter and Valrhona chocolate. Our only dilemma: Should we indulge first in almond Florentine shortbread or rugelach? Or maybe a coconut macaroon %26#8230; 5330 Weslayan St., 713.771.8603; michaelscookiejar.com.

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Image: Photo by Adam Nyholt Photography.

Ocean's

Mon, 26 Jul 2010 05:55:08 GMT

When Bistro Vino, the eatery renowned for quaint garden dining, closed after 24 years, its building languished, slated to be razed in favor of mid-rise condos. As neighbors sulked, the deal fell apart, and 30-something developer Jorge Alvarez and his brother, Isaac, happened upon the 80-year-old Tudor %26#8212; a new DIY project was born. The Mexico City%26#8211;born brothers renovated the two-story space to create Ocean%26#8217;s, a Mexican restaurant specializing in ceviche. Banish images of overcooked calamari and shrimp piled high in a Libbey martini glass. Ocean%26#8217;s sophisticated selections, created by sushi chef Abel Franco (late of Rickshaw), are simply prepared at the ceviche bar, sliced like sashimi and bathed for a minute or two in a marinade that mixes ingredients such as slivered red onions, olives, chile, avocado and parmesan shavings, in the case of the house original ($12), while the oriental ceviche ($12) melds soy, ginger, OJ, rice vinegar and more for a complex taste. You can make a meal out of any of the 10 changing selections, presented on white oversized platters, or add an Ocean%26#8217;s Taco (lobster tail, $16) or shrimp tostada Maximiliano ($10). And did we mention Ocean%26#8217;s margarita? The sweet-and-sour concoction is shaken with fresh orange and lime juices with a hint of agave syrup %26#8212; bright and brilliant. Open lunch and dinner. 819 W. Alabama, 713.520.7744; oceansceviche.com.

Images:%26nbsp; Jorge Alvarez and Isaac Alvarez, Ocean's; photos by Jack Thompson.%26nbsp;

Having a Fit

Thu, 24 Jun 2010 01:32:56 GMT

It may not just be about personal chefs now: There is a bit of new culinary competition in town. Meet My Fit Foods, the latest health-food rage among those with discerning palates. Founded by personal trainer and nutritionist turned restaurateur Mario Mendias and with two Dallas locations (in Preston Center and on Lemmon Avenue), My Fit Foods is one part pick-up shop and another part eat-in diner. The concept is simple: Select your pre-made meal du jour from a centrally placed, oversized refrigerator before taking it to go or heating it up for noshing on the spot. Breakfast, lunch and dinner offerings are fresh and perfectly portioned %26#8212; protein and carbohydrates are meticulously measured %26#8212; and include tenderloin with pesto sauce and roasted vegetables; black bean soup with parboiled rice; steel-cut oatmeal pancakes with agave nectar dipping syrup; and plenty of nutritious snacks. The best part? Orders can be placed in advance at myfitfoods.com. Easy, healthy and gourmet? We like the sound of this already. 4015 Lemmon Ave., 214.780.0602; 6100 Luther Lane, 214.360.7569; myfitfoods.com.

Did You Know?

Thu, 24 Jun 2010 01:59:38 GMT

Saks Fifth Avenue%26#8217;s fashionable bo%26#238;te, just around the corner from designer ready-to-wear on the second floor, recently underwent a nip and tuck. A decade of wear, you see, had left this elegant Jeffrey Beers-designed space bereft. Enter Houston designer Jay Clues, who respectfully left its beautifully chiseled bones but, in keeping with the space%26#8217;s gold, white, silver and gray elegance, updated the worn glove-leather-like chairs and added a stunning floor-to-ceiling plaster sculpture of white roses %26#8212; his own design, executed by Houston artist Navid Ghedami. The ownership and name quietly changed as well when Landmark Houston Hospitality Group bought into the space (formerly owned and operated by the Ruggles Grill Team) in the Philip Johnson%26#8211;designed Saks building and christened it 51fifteen Restaurant %26amp; Lounge. Exec chef Pedro Silva has streamlined the former Ruggles menu and made it his own. Open lunch and dinner, 51fifteen is a delicious retail respite for ladies who lunch and the gentleman who adore them. At Saks Fifth Avenue in the Galleria, 5115 Westheimer Road, 713.963.8067.

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Image: Photo by Julie Sofer

Yelapa Playa Mexicana

Thu, 24 Jun 2010 01:51:09 GMT

Keys to the Door: Co-owners Chuck Bulnes and executive chef L.J. Wiley; general manager Brett Storey.
What%26#8217;s on the Menu: When Houston restaurant veteran Chuck Bulnes (co-creator of Berryhill Tamales and former co-owner of Texas Tamales and Joyce%26#8217;s Oyster Resort) decided to open a Mexican-inspired restaurant, he knew he couldn%26#8217;t slap up any ordinary Tex-Mex hut on Richmond %26#8212; and he certainly hasn%26#8217;t. Yelapa, named for the Mexican beach town, will make you rethink the possibilities of South of the Border fare. Innovative young chef/co-owner L.J. Wiley is a French Culinary Institute alum who%26#8217;s worked at high-profile places including Spice Market, Morimoto, Alto and Gordon Ramsay. He makes micro-seasonal changes to a menu filled with locally sourced products, spinning out cool gazpachos (from cantaloupe to watermelon) and reinventing classics such as campechana: a rock shrimp, scallop and avocado m%26#233;lange seasoned with smoky chipotle salt. Wiley also plays with the Italian panzanella (traditional bread salad) concept to create %26#8220;The Real Guacamole%26#8221;: crisp tortilla chips tossed with dried mangos, fresh avocado, fennel and olives %26#8212; the makings of a refreshing, textural salad. If you can%26#8217;t imagine a Mexican meal without a creamy jalape%26#241;o-spiced dip, nachos and quesadillas, they%26#8217;ve got you covered %26#8212; although some chicken and veggie varieties are tweaked with squash blossoms, pea leaves and spicy lime a%26#239;oli in season. Thirsty? Yelapa%26#8217;s well-crafted cocktails (prickly pear Micheladas) are as inventive as the go-withs. 2303 Richmond Ave., 281.501.0391; yelapatime.com.

Crowing about the BRC

Wed, 26 May 2010 04:42:48 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners Lee Ellis, Lance Fegen, Shepard Ross, Carl Eaves and Will Davis. Executive chef Jeff Axline.
What%26#8217;s Cooking: Leave it to visionary concepteur Lee Ellis (The Social, Belvedere, 310 Rosemont) and chef Lance Fegen (The Glass Wall) not only to bring Houston what it%26#8217;s always lacked %26#8212; a great gastropub with a decidedly American slant %26#8212; but to give it an eyebrow-raising name. BRC, you see, is an acronym for Big Red Cock (as in rooster, cock-a-doodle-doo). Ellis carries the fowl theme throughout: Egg-basket lanterns dangle overhead, while black-and-white rooster photos nest above the deep banquettes. Rustic shiplap panels dress down the adjacent scarlet-flocked Osborne %26amp; Little paper on the walls. As for the menu %26#8230; Start with%26nbsp; BRC%26#8217;s field guide to wine and beer, where you%26#8217;ll find American craft beers such as Curve Ball and White Rascal that pair naturally with the crispy Dr Pepper%26#8211;fried San Antonio quail app drizzled with honey-peppercorn butter ($9) or the State Fair griddled cheddar and Pola Moonster cheese sandwich stuffed with tender short rib ($12). The BRC pub burger is built on a soft challah bun by Fegen, exec chef Jeff Axline and his crew, who actually grind their own blend of meat (whiteface Hereford brisket, chuck and short-rib cuts, natch) then layer it with Tillamook, homemade dressing, marinated tomatoes and maple-glazed bacon ($8.50). Top off the experience with rock, blues and jazz while sipping a strawberry mojito or black cherry sangr%26#237;a %26#8212; it%26#8217;s a marvel how well they make do here without hard liquor behind the bar. Roll in for lunch, dinner, brunch or even late night, as the kitchen stays open till midnight on weekdays, 2 am on the weekends. 519 Shepherd Dr., 713.861.2233; brcgastropub.com.

Image:%26nbsp; Will Davis, Shepard Ross, Carl Eaves, Lee Ellis, Lance Fegen, Jeff Axline at BRC; photo by Jenny Antill

Sfuzzi

Wed, 26 May 2010 12:11:01 GMT

Keys to the Door: Creator/owner Robert Colombo; operating partners James Hamous, Brandon Hays; managing director Lance Bodwell; executive chef Ruben Peck.

Noshing With the In Crowd: Uptown%26#8217;s Bright Young Things may not remember the original Sfuzzi %26#8212; the %26#8217;80s eatery notorious for its frozen peach cocktail and its party-like-it%26#8217;s-Studio 54 crowd %26#8212; but today%26#8217;s au courant should love the recently reincarnated hot spot. Now, Sfuzzi lives across the street from its original McKinney Avenue locale and is one part pizzeria and another part cocktail lounge, serving drinks and fare well into the wee hours %26#8212; 2 am Sunday through Wednesday, and 3 am Thursday through Saturday. Inside, an expansive bar centers the watering-hole scene, where crimson hues and restored vintage chaises make for a moody Italian vibe. For dining, think long banquettes and large wood tables with enough room for at least six. (Attention private socialites: Reserve the round-table booth in the front window, which can be closed off by drawing a red velvet curtain.) The menu offerings are tasty and simple, with amped-up faves from Colombo%26#8217;s Villa O (yes, even Mama Colombo%26#8217;s salad) and several new specialties: braised short-rib pizza with caramelized onions and to-die-for portobello fries. Why we%26#8217;ll return? Sfuzzi%26#8217;s spacious wraparound patio, with its ample seating, an outdoor bar, community tables and colorful hanging glass lanterns %26#8212; all the better to illuminate those Bright Young Things.%26nbsp;2533 McKinney Ave. 214.953.0300; sfuzziuptown.com.

Meddlesome Moth

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 06:23:33 GMT

Shannon Wynne is putting his stamp on Lower Oak Lawn%26#8217;s map with his interpretation of a gastropub. This ought to be good. Very good.

16621 Oak Lawn Ave.
mothinthe.net

Who to Know: Owners Shannon Wynne (the seasoned restaurateur behind Flying Fish and Flying Saucer), Keith Schlabs and Larry Richardson; general manager Lon Goodwin. %26#8226; In the Kitchen: Executive chef Chad Kelley. %26#8226; On the Menu: Small plates recall Belgian and English bar bites such as calamari stuffed with ox tail, rabbit pot pie, pickled veggies, and cured hams and meats. %26#8226; Decor Note: Though the interior was still under wraps at press time, Wynne says his space is %26#8220;an effort not to be so precious.%26#8221; For the man who %26#8220;doesn%26#8217;t do cute,%26#8221; inspiration comes from NYC%26#8217;s The Spotted Pig and DBGB. %26#8226; For Table Conversation: The building%26#8217;s historic exterior adds to the Moth%26#8217;s charm with restored stained-glass windows and a commissioned James Surls sculpture over the entry.

Nova

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 06:17:12 GMT

Where Kings Highway crosses Davis Street in north Oak Cliff, a modern-day diner unites global cuisine and local art culture.

1417 W. Davis St.
novadallas.com

Who to Know: Co-owners Robert Ramirez, JD Reid, Darren Scott, Matthew Yates and chef/co-owner Kelly Hightower. %26#8226; In the Kitchen: Hightower%26#8217;s expertise stems from time spent in the kitchens at Hatties, the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek and Kavala. %26#8226; On the Menu: Brick-oven pizza and a heavenly hummus are staples. Our intrigue? Blowtorch salmon with yuzu miso glaze, or the oolong tea%26#8211;smoked duck on scallion crepes. %26#8226; Decor Note: The Jetsons meets Mad Men, where the interior complements the building%26#8217;s Googie architectural style%26nbsp;%26#8212; very retro, very cool. %26#8226; For Table Conversation: Nova plays host to many arts-related events. Next up is Crave, a juried art exhibit and music festival on Sunday, May 9.

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Image credit: DPS Design Services

Preston’s

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 06:26:25 GMT

Locavores will gladly devour the homegrown and sustainable cuisine at this fresh concept in the former Park Cities Prime digs.

8411 Preston Road in Preston Center
214.691.7763
prestonsdallas.com

In the Kitchen: Chef and co-owner Jon Schwarzenberger, formerly of Crescent Club, Social House and Lounge. %26#8226; On the Menu: Go for the sesame-crusted seared Ahi tuna salad, followed by the to-die-for short ribs braised in Rahr %26amp; Sons Ugly Pug beer. For dessert, the coconut panna cotta with roasted bananas is divine. %26#8226; Decor Note: The interior channels a sophisticated chop house and remains mostly unchanged from its days as Park Cities Prime. Upstairs, the spacious private dining room is much in demand for celebratory affairs. %26#8226; For Table Conversation: In an effort to better the way our city eats, most of Schwarzenberger%26#8217;s dishes incorporate %26#8220;super foods%26#8221; (avocado, sweet potatoes, salmon, nuts) that are high in antioxidants. That means we%26#8217;ll have seconds of everything.

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Image above: Preston's; credit: David Nix

Images below: North Pacific black cod, Chef Jon Schwarzenberger; credit: David Nix

Ristorante Nicola

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 06:22:55 GMT

It%26#8217;s 7,000 square feet of Italian bravado at Preston Road%26#8217;s new fine-dining destination.

8111 Preston Road, Suite 150
214.379.1111
nicoladallas.com

Who to Know: Owner Richard Gussoni; general manager John Baudoin. %26#8226; In the Kitchen: Chef Luigi Iannuario, most recently of Oceanaire. %26#8226; On the Menu: Start with the Italian flatbread, then go for the hollow spaghetti with smoked pancetta, spicy tomato sauce and parmigiano-reggiano or the pepper-crusted beef tenderloin. %26#8226; Decor Note: Renaissance opulence means Barovier %26amp; Toso custom-made and handblown Murano glass chandeliers, Venetian-style drapes and Massoud custom high-back lounge chairs and sofas. %26#8226; For Table Conversation: Iannuario was raised in Milan %26#8212; hence the charming accent %26#8212; where he studied with chefs Gualtiero Marchesi and Alberico Penati and worked for Giorgio Armani at the Emporio Armani Caffe.

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Image above: Chef Luigi Iannuario; credit: David Callahan

Image below: Roasted sea bass with broccolini, root vegetableS and white wine butter sauce; credit: Kevin Hunter Marple

Neighborhood Services Tavern

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 06:21:10 GMT

Bon vivant Nick Badovinus plus cocktail connoisseur Jason Kosmas equals pub perfection on Henderson Avenue.

2405 N. Henderson Ave.
214.827.2405

Who to Know: Owner and chef Nick Badovinus (of Neighborhood Services on Lovers Lane and the soon-to-open NS Bar and Grill at Preston and Royal); manager and bartender Jason Kosmas. %26#8226; On the Menu: The bar bites are brilliant %26#8212; fried little asparagus with pecorino, Creek Stone meatballs au poivre or rock shrimp with cheddar grits %26#8212; and the sips are as attentively crafted. Imbibe the Egg Man (pineapple-infused Pisco, raw egg white, lime juice, nutmeg, angostura bitters) or the Domino Fizz (Hayman%26#8217;s Old Tom Gin, lemon juice, simple syrup, fresh lavender, club soda). %26#8226; Decor Note: This spin on a neighborhood watering hole has tall reclaimed-pine tables, exposed brick walls, a shapely teak tree-root lighting piece and several fetching photographs of Michael Cain, Paul Newman and Sean Connery. %26#8226; For Table Conversation: We always love Badovinus%26#8217; unexpected details. The check is presented inside small vintage books, and the restroom decor is ever so cheeky.

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Image above: Neighborhood Services Tavern; credit: Haynsworth Photography

Image below: Chef and owner Nick Badovinus; credit: Haynsworth Photography

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Maple %26 Motor

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 06:16:10 GMT

This burger locale has all the makings of a classic %26#8212; a growing list of impressive patrons, an off-the-beaten-path location and, of course, a comfort-food menu.

4810 Maple Ave.
214.522.4400
mapleandmotor.com

Who to Know: Co-owners Jack Perkins and Austen Wright %26#8226; On the Menu: Order the cheeseburger with grilled jalape%26#241;os or the fried-bologna sandwich made %26#8220;Jack%26#8217;s Way,%26#8221; with homemade chili, cheese, red onions and a fried egg, all on Texas toast. For sweets, it%26#8217;s drinkable homemade ice cream or a Gob %26#8212; the West Virginia treat with whipped buttercream sandwiched between two chocolate cakes. %26#8226; Decor Note: The quaint spot is unpretentious and simple. Chalkboards boast daily specials, the kitchen door is signed by famous customers (we hear Jerry Jones is a fan of the Jolly Rancher iced tea), and the walls are lined with black-framed photographs depicting Maple Avenue at night. %26#8226; For Table Conversation: Allie Beth Allman had her birthday party here, with former first lady Laura Bush in attendance. Mrs. Bush%26#8217;s dish of choice? %26#8220;A cheeseburger %26#8212; straight up,%26#8221; says Perkins.

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Image above: Co-owner Jack Perkins; credit: Haynsworth Photography

Images below: Fried-bologna sandwich, Cheeseburger with grilled jalape%26#241;os; credit: Haynsworth Photography

Araya Artisan Chocolate

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 01:43:52 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owners and chocolatiers Stefano Zullian, Carla Susi and Silvana Susi.

What%26#8217;s Behind the Candy Counter: What do you get when you take a couple who are passionate about artisan chocolates, apprentice them to a master chocolatier in Venezuela and give them richly complex El Rey couverture chocolate as a base for their future cacao creations? An array of marvelously crafted chocolates in ganache-filled flavors such as Moroccan tea, cinnamon and nuts, vodka citron, pink Himalayan salt, chai spice, margarita, chipotle and more. Stefano Zullian, his wife Carla Susi and sister-in-law Silvana Susi are the forces behind Araya Artisan Chocolate, the heavenly shop that occupies a 500-square-foot space next to River Oaks Theatre. %26#8220;Araya%26#8221; is the name of a Venezuelan town that straddles the lush rainforest where many of South America%26#8217;s finest cocoa beans are grown and the parched land across the peninsula where a salt mine stands. For those schooled in fine European chocolate (read: you%26#8217;ve eaten your way through Maison du Chocolat on more than one occasion), Araya%26#8217;s colorful candies will remind you of Richart, or perhaps Marie Belle. The tempered shells are crisp and thin, breaking delicately with a bite %26#8212; both signs of a great handmade chocolate. They%26#8217;re pretty, too, decorated with colorful, punchy transfer patterns or a sweep of gold or silver dust. Each chocolate is intended to be savored like a fine wine, so that the complexities are slowly unveiled. Deconstruct a peanut butter and berry piece, for example, in two bites so its thin, blackberry p%26#226;t%26#233; de fruit layer can be fully appreciated. The small-batch selections (six pieces for $15, 12 for $28, 24 for $54) fill beautiful artist-made, limited-edition boxes that make a perfect dinner-party gift when a bottle of pinot noir just doesn%26#8217;t feel right. Or, indulge yourself with a single piece (about $2) when Junior Mints just don%26#8217;t fit the foreign-film vibe next door. River Oaks Shopping Center, 2013 W. Gray; 832.967.7960; arayachocolate.com.

%26nbsp;Image: Stefano Zullian; image credit: Jenny Antill

Knock Twice

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 01:23:37 GMT

Neal Hamil has returned to Houston after 19 years in NY as a partner in Ford Models and president of Elite Models. Now, along with Armando and Cinda Palacios (proprietors of Armandos restaurant), he%26#8217;s producing an intime, very chic restaurant/lounge called Lake, to open mid-September in the former Dessert Gallery space on Lake Street off Kirby. Issac Preminger and decorator John Kidd are installing luscious indigo-blue columns wrapped in cedar, leather-topped bars and extravagant lighting %26#8230; all secluded behind unmarked doors with a private reservations number. Annabel%26#8217;s meets The Caribou Club meets Gramercy Park Hotel.

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Images:%26nbsp; Armando %26amp; Cinda Palacios, Neal Hamil; images credit: Jenny Antill

Hot Box

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 01:41:39 GMT

Eating healthfully has become a budding enterprise for several entrepreneurs in town who%26#8217;ve made it their mandate to feed us fare that%26#8217;s delicious as well as slimming. We%26#8217;ve tried nearly all those prepared meals you can fetch at a reach-in refrigerator near you. And while they all fit the bill, the one that has PC staffers raving is Haute Box Meals, an online service that couriers exotic meals such as shrimp with coconut golden raisins, jasmine rice and sage zucchini, and beef tenderloin chili con carne with black beans, roasted red peppers and a polenta galette. Haute Box is the creation of trainer Meda Abernathy and Troy Genzer, who enlisted the help of talented chefs and restaurateurs to create a dietician-approved array of meals for breakfast, lunch and dinner %26#8212;%26nbsp;let%26#8217;s just say you won%26#8217;t get bored soon. Prices range from $3 for snacks (apricot rice pudding, anyone?) up to $11 for entrees, which come in regular and large sizes and ring in at 300 to 900 calories, depending on the options. Information hauteboxmeals.com.

Brennan's of Houston

Tue, 30 Mar 2010 03:30:56 GMT

Keys to the Door: The Commander%26#8217;s family of restaurants, run by Alex Brennan-Martin, Ti Adelaide Martin and Lally Brennan; executive chef Danny Trace; general manager Carl Walker.
What%26#8217;s on the Menu: A devastating fire set Brennan%26#8217;s ablaze when Hurricane Ike blew through town, but the 43-year-old Creole landmark has now reopened after a 17-month renovation. The restaurant is kin to the Commander%26#8217;s Place empire that originated in the Big Easy when Brennan-Martin%26#8217;s family purchased the 128-year-old New Orleans property in the %26#8217;60s, and history weaves a curious path through its past. The Houston incarnation is housed in a John Staub building, circa 1967, in Courtlandt Square, built to accommodate the Junior League upstairs and Staub%26#8217;s offices down. The Houston architect was inspired to create a structure that evoked the Vieux Carr%26#233; when he visited Don Jos%26#233; Faurie%26#8217;s manse in New Orleans. Curiously, that%26#8217;s where Brennan%26#8217;s in New Orleans relocated in the %26#8217;50s, three decades after Staub%26#8217;s visit. Here in Houston, Brennan-Martin paid homage to Staub%26#8217;s original design by bringing back the arched windows and exposed brick; he also created a new dining room devoted to the man who envisioned it all. (Fans of the movie Terms of Endearment should ask to be seated in the room that bears that name %26#8212; a bright space with gold lattice chairs and poppy-red seats, with a wall of garden trellis mirrors that reflect the popular courtyard.) The building was restored by Studio Red architects in Houston; The Johnson Studio of Atlanta executed the interior design. The main dining room features bright rays of yellow, from a sunflower-dappled carpet to wingchairs in butterscotch and oval-back chairs. Loyalists will find such favorites as turtle soup, wild shrimp remoulade and bananas Foster, but chef Danny Trace also serves inventive bites %26#8212; crispy oyster BLT on a house bacon and caramelized onion mousse; dirty duck donut braised in chicory coffee with a port syrup and foie gras ganache; and Gulf Fish court bouillon. Meeting for business? Bring back the three-martini lunch with Brennan%26#8217;s quirky, itty-bitty 25 cent martinis. Personally, we couldn%26#8217;t pass up the Ramos gin fizz. But don%26#8217;t just pop in %26#8212; reservations are required. 3300 Smith St.; 713.522.9711; brennanshouston.com.

Image, above: Chef Danny Trace at Brennan's of Houston; photo by Jenny Antill

Image, below: Brennan's of Houston; photo by Jenny Antill

Sfuzzi's Sexy Encore

Tue, 30 Mar 2010 02:04:53 GMT

Restaurateur Robert Colombo of Trece and Villa O is at it again. His latest endeavor is a return %26#8212; to the 1980s, in fact, the unforgettable era of Prince, Keith Haring, Miami Vice and leg warmers %26#8212; with the reinvention of Sfuzzi, this time at the corner of Routh Street and McKinney Avenue. The hallowed dining and nightlife institution opened first in 1986, attracting a cast of aesthetes, social swans and gourmands well into the 1990s. It reopens this month under the name Sfuzzi Encore %26#8212; and yes, that dangerously delicious frozen cocktail, the Sfuzzi, will be making its grand re-entr%26#233;e, too. Served in a speakeasy setting this time %26#8212; think brick, wood, highly wrought high-back chairs, flamboyant mirrors and black-and-white photographs %26#8212; the menu goodies will focus on Neapolitan pizza and handmade pasta. Sfuzzi%26#8217;s late-night lounge (on weekends the kitchen will keep cooking till 3:30 am) and sprawling patio will draw a crowd sure to resemble modern-day Dianne Brills and Susanne Bartschs. Should you be caught dancing on the tables, just blame it on the redux buzz.

Remington Revealed

Fri, 19 Feb 2010 12:09:26 GMT

I don%26#8217;t know about you, but I%26#8217;ve grown rather tired of the grand standing chef, who aims for fame, all in the name of promoting their restaurant(s), never, of course, themselves. The sort who seems to have lost sight of the reason the best cooks are compelled to enter this exhausting and difficult business: their desire to feed diners and delight them with a dish so scrumptious the memory of its first palate awakening bite stays with you for a long time to come.%26nbsp;

Imagine then how refreshing it was to dine at The Remington at the St. Regis Hotel Houston, a very under-the-radar restaurant led by talented executive chef Garret Fujieda and his sous chef John Signorelli. It%26#8217;s obvious from reading the menus alone that this quiet, thoughtful duo are having so much fun in the kitchen melding flavors that pair naturally with one another but don%26#8217;t play upon clich%26#233; either. Take their grilled blue prawns (head on for maximum flavor) over crisp southern blue biscuits topped with a corn gravy, grilled onions and a green tomato relish ($15). It deliciously plays on our regional Southern tradition without coming off as contrived. In fact, Signorelli says, %26#8220;We%26#8217;ve focused on creating an American regional menu offering dishes that have elements from every geographic area important to U.S. food history.%26#8221;

Or ponder New England black mussels ($14) but made modern by steaming them open with lemongrass and ginger in a spicy sambal broth. A cast-iron beef tenderloin with smoked cheddar potato casserole and a green peppercorn Kentucky bourbon sauce ($39) feeds the Midwestern appetite, while the Pacific Northwest contribution comes in the form of a cedar planked salmon (request medium rare, natch) with a warm potato salad, currant and sage bread pudding (adorably portioned) and mustard dill cream ($28). %26nbsp;

The two talented toques also conspire to deconstruct a dish and aim to make the whole reinvented one greater than the sum of its parts. Such is the case with their wasabi tempura fried tuna California %26#8220;unrolled%26#8221; entr%26#233;e ($34). Where a barely fried (still beautifully rare tuna beneath its crisp surface) is spread before a pyramid of sushi rice, pile of pickled cucumber, dice of fried avocado with a smear of chili mascarpone cream spread across the plate for dipping. %26nbsp; And with new wine impresario Don Derocher on board pouring and gently advising, you%26#8217;ll find a fun food and wine experience that belies its formal, but comfortable garden room setting. %26nbsp; %26nbsp; %26nbsp; %26nbsp; %26nbsp; %26nbsp;

Beyond the Box

Wed, 24 Feb 2010 01:07:46 GMT

Keys to the Door: Owner and executive chef Doug Brown, director of operations Eric Thomas Guerrieri.
Gourmet to Go, or to Stay: For those days when lunch lacks foie gras and caviar (we hate those days), we suggest the back booth and a curry chicken salad sandwich at Beyond the Box cafe. Owner and exec chef Doug Brown%26#8217;s new concept at residential/retail development Ilume is an extension of his nearly six-year-old Beyond the Box Catering business. Here, gourmet fare %26#8212; think freshly made entrees such as chicken cordon bleu and apricot-glazed salmon, as well as an extensive salad bar that doubles as an oatmeal bar during breakfast hours %26#8212; is served in a casual setting. All menu items are prepared in Brown%26#8217;s Deep Ellum catering kitchen and delivered daily to the Cedar Springs storefront, where one half of the cafe is for ordering and the other half is for dining. A long bar with high-backed stools parallels a row of large booths across the room; stainless-steel accents with blue mosaic tiling make the whole thing mod. But as much as Beyond the Box is about pleasing the palates of on-the-go sophisticates, it%26#8217;s also about convenience: Stocked on the shelves are off-the-norm beers and wines, organic pet food for Fifi and Fido, even natural soaps, shampoos and toothpastes %26#8212; terribly handy if you happen to live upstairs. 4123 Cedar Springs (in the Ilume complex), 214.828.2228; foodbeyondthebox.com.%26nbsp;

Image: Photo by David Witherspoon%26nbsp;

Meals with Wheels (and Tosca, Too)

Thu, 28 Jan 2010 12:35:17 GMT

Should you become ravenous on the way to the Winspear %26#8212; or the Wyly or the Nasher or the Crow %26#8212; we know a quaint little place for sophisticated fare. One catch: It doesn%26#8217;t have four walls and a dining room %26#8212; it has four wheels and a transmission. Consider the Green House, a mobile eatery serving up soups, salads, even ciabatta sandwiches. The brainchild of chef Ben Hutchison (Food Company, Routh Street, Little Nell in Aspen) and %26#8220;non-practicing attorney%26#8221; Michael Siegel (his mother-in-law is A-list art adviser Cindy Schwartz), Green House is a fast way into slow food, as %26#8220;there%26#8217;s no butter, lard or anything fried,%26#8221; says Siegel. Instead, think veggie soup, a salad tossed with Mediterranean chicken or that scrumptious ciabatta, with Asian-marinated steak and grilled vegetables. You can even create your own little masterpiece from mix-and-match ingredients, all healthy, all light. Watch for the first truck in the Arts District (it%26#8217;s a vintage one that%26#8217;s been restored, says Siegel, %26#8220;so it has a lot of charm%26#8221;), then more to follow, as word of those opera-worthy entrees gets around. Information greenhousetruck.com.

Sushi Raku

Thu, 28 Jan 2010 11:32:01 GMT

Waza Sushi owner Patrick Chiu pulled out all the stops to open his new Japanese restaurant, Sushi Raku. First, he lured Austin designer Michael Hsu, who articulated the much-talked-about environs of Uchi and Kenichi, to fashion the midtown space%26#8217;s interiors. In the courtyard entrance, tiny red glass tiles line the walls, and water trickles through the hand-wrought links of a copper-chain fountain. Inside the soaring space, one%26#8217;s eye gravitates toward the huge-scaled portraits of a geisha girl and samurai warrior painted by an artist Chiu respectfully identifies as Mr. Wong. But even more compelling is the mesquite-fired robata grill near the front of the restaurant; patrons can perch at the white marbled grill-area bar and watch chef Taka Sekiguchi skillfully char-grill salmon belly, Kobe beef skewers, Texas quail with teriyaki glaze, bacon-wrapped scallops and chicken (per Japanese tradition, nearly every part of the bird is used). Separating the cozy, 1,200-square-foot bar area from the main dining room, which is dressed in white oak with soothing tones of gray, beige and flashes of poppy red, is an imposing wall of weighted red nylon ropes. The 60,000-pound tangle looks like it could haul the catch straight from the waters of Japan %26#8212;%26nbsp;the very fish that Chiu and his chef procure each Friday from the famed Tokyo market Tsukiji. On the plate, Taka deftly melds 15 years of Japanese and pan-Asian cooking experience to create memorable dishes such as a 12-hour braised pork jowl topped with a poached lady apple comport and candied pecans, Kobe beef sliders with crisps of fried burdock root in lieu of potato (quite addictive) and, of course, an array of traditional and novel sushi combinations, all exquisitely prepared, as well as uncommon sake selections. 3201 Louisiana St., 713.526.8885.

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Image: Executive chef Taka Sekiguchi. Photo by Jack Thompson.

Dish

Tue, 29 Dec 2009 05:17:03 GMT

Keys to the Door: Tim McEneny and Doug Brown.

Good Dish: Several weeks ago, I was lunching with a jet-setting social who%26#8217;d just moved to town. She opined that Dallas has only a handful of restaurants focusing on chic and simple American cuisine. Well, new Dallasite, here%26#8217;s a hot spot to add your list. Dish restaurant and lounge, conceived by Tim McEneny (Obar) and concept chef Doug Brown (Beyond the Box), is housed on the first floor of the Ilume development on Cedar Springs and specializes in straightforward, yet current, comfort food. This modern 156-seat eatery, with a lively covered patio, is open for dinner and cocktails nightly, from 5 to 11 pm, with bar-menu service from 11 pm to 1 am. My dream order goes a little something like this: mushroom flatbread with Shitake mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, pesto, Texas goat cheese and arugula ($11); grilled Caesar salad ($7); seared natural jumbo sea scallops with a poached egg, parmesan and pearl cous cous ($21); and, to induce myself into a food coma, lemon ice box pie with toasted meringue ($7). 4123 Cedar Springs, Suite 110, 214.522.3474; dish-dallas.com.

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Image: Photo by John Smith

Arcodoro %26 Pomodoro

Wed, 16 Dec 2009 05:14:49 GMT

100 Crescent Court, Suite 140 (at The Crescent)

214.871.1924

arcodoro.com

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Keys to the door: Owners Lori and Efisio Farris.

A Moveable Feast: The Crescent has a new tenant: Owners Lori and Efisio Farris have moved their Arcodoro %26amp; Pomodoro from 2708 Routh Street to this notable corner of Maple and McKinney avenues. Efisio Farris%26#8217;s%26#160; brother, longtime A %26amp; P chef Francesco Farris, may not have made the move (no word yet on where he%26#8217;s headed), but the murals, the chandeliers and even the giant red tomato that graced the fa%26#231;ade on Routh Street made the trek. Houston architect Carlo di Nunzio designed the space, cozying up the bar with a double-wide Brazilian marble counter (perfect for enjoying a quick panini at lunch), adding two private dining rooms and even working a walled outdoor patio into the plans. The menu is rich with Sardinian favorites such as fregula kin arsellas (clam soup) and risotto al nero con scampi al timo (carnaroli rice simmered with squid ink, cuttlefish, baked scampi and thyme) while a rotisserie slowly turns delicious lamb shoulder and chicken. New feature? The %26#8220;Golden Door,%26#8221; a backdoor entrance, located near the garage elevators of The Crescent, where one literally walks through the kitchen to reach the host stand. At last, easy access to this culinary corner.%26#160;

Poscól Vinoteca e Salumeria

Fri, 11 Dec 2009 04:03:37 GMT

1609 Westheimer Road
713.529.2797
Keys to the Door: Owners Gloria Wiles and chef Marco Wiles.

What%26#8217;s on the Menu: He%26#8217;s brought us Da Marco and Dolce Vita. Now Marco Wiles, the soft-spoken chef known for his serious study of all food and drink Italian, debuts Posc%26#243;l. Named for the street where he was born in Udine in Italy, this vinoteca and salumeria (read: wine bar and cured-meat-and-cheese bar) warms up the space formerly known as Caf%26#233; Montrose with low lighting and hardwood floors. Posc%26#243;l%26#8217;s red, refurbished Berkel slicer is the Rolls-Royce of meat slicers, sought by chefs in the know for creating paper-thin slivers of prosciutto San Daniele and Cotto and, in this case, speck, mortadella and house-made salumi such as veal tongue, pork cheek sausage and porchetta. The menu here hearkens back to Dolce Vita, its offerings divided into small tastes that, en masse, make a meal: verdura ($5 each), such as pickles and blueberry caponata; fritto (fried bites, $6 each), including ricotta, polenta and smashed potatoes; risotto ($9); bruschette ($4); tramezzeni sandwiches smooshed on a Pullman loaf ($6 to $8); and pressed panini ($9 to $14) with such fillings as albacore, tomato and artichokes or proscuitto, mozzarella and arugula. The wine list, like Da Marco%26#8217;s, brims with well-chosen Italian imports, including bottles reflective of the Friuli region, such as Tocai %26#8212; a regional white one simply must try.

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Image: Gloria and Marco Wiles, Owners

Photo by: Jenny Antill

PS Valentino Vin Bar at Hotel Derek

Fri, 11 Dec 2009 04:09:08 GMT

2525 W. Loop South at Westheimer

713.850.9200

valentinorestaurant.com

We%26#8217;ve seen the Hotel Derek through many a restaurant endeavor, but the new PS Valentino Vin Bar is far more than a postscript. This impressive venture combines cooking pedigree with decades of experience in the business. Restaurateur Piero Selvaggio was only 18 when he opened Valentino in Santa Monica, where he recreated the approachable Sicilian dishes of his youth to great acclaim. A decade ago, he opened one of two concepts in Las Vegas, and now he%26#8217;s set his sights on Houston. Contemporary decor is punctuated with red punches and dark woods, care of renowned architecture and design firm Gensler. Settle into Valentino%26#8217;s fine-dining room for spaghetti bottarga with fresh sardines and arugula ($16) and grilled Kurobuta pork loin marinated in green apple brine with gorgonzola mashed potatoes ($30). Or settle in to%26nbsp; Valentino%26#8217;s more casual Bistro Vin Bar for delightful passionfruit sturgeon and baby-back ribs with Tuscan barbecue sauce.

Ocean Prime

Wed, 02 Dec 2009 12:36:19 GMT

2101 Cedar Springs Road
214.965.0440
dallas.ocean-prime.com
Keys to the Door: Owner Cameron Mitchell, general manager Brandon Davis.
Hop on Board: For Dallas-residing, modern-day Mad Men, Ocean Prime is the new supper club at which would-be Don Drapers must be seen sipping a Gentleman Jack Whiskey cocktail and devouring a New York strip. Owner Cameron Mitchell%26#8217;s 10,000-square-foot culinary fantasy at Rosewood Court is his sixth Ocean Prime endeavor and the first in Dallas. Here, executive chef Sonny Pache is crafting his surf-and-turf menu, with such savory dishes as ahi tuna tartar with ginger ponzu and avocado, black-truffle macaroni and cheese, blackened snapper, and pork porterhouse with pommery mustard jus %26#8212; all paired splendidly with the impressive wine list. For ambiance, think a contemporary version of the Queen Mary%26#8217;s first-class dining room %26#8212; circular lighting fixtures, candles in glass lanterns and washes of blue light. Along for the ride are Sammy Davis Jr. and Frank Sinatra, the namesakes of two of Ocean Prime%26#8217;s private dining rooms.%26#160;