Paper City Article

Gilt City Taps Its Tastemaker

Fri, 02 Dec 2011 12:42:30 GMT

When our own editor at large Brooke Hortenstine told us that she had been selected as the first Gilt City Insider to curate two-weeks worth of sales for Gilt City Dallas, we knew she would fit the role of tastemaker perfectly. Socialite shoppers take note: You must join Brooke at her Give to Get party %26mdash; a foodie fete at Alberto Lombardi%26rsquo;s La Fiorentina restaurant next week (December 6 from 6:30 pm to 8:30 pm), kicking off the impending sales. Click quickly to giltcity.com/dallas and snag your ticket ($30). The evening, we hear, will boast plenty of tasty bites, endless sips and a bit of benevolence. Party guests who bring an unwrapped toy to be donated to Children%26rsquo;s Medical Center will in turn receive a well-stocked Gilt City gift bag. There are even more dates to save: Pencil December 7 and December 12 into your Smythson as Brooke and Gilt City will roll out packages boasting everything from stationery by Missing Q press to blowouts from Jean-Philippe Salon, even access to an exclusive trunk show soiree at V.O.D. Snag it all ASAP. Knowing our Brooke, these party tickets and A-list deals will sell out in a snap.%26nbsp;

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Things We Love

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 06:25:07 GMT

J%26rsquo;adore meringue, especially when it angelically envelops a meltingly moist six-layer vanilla meringue cake dense with zabayon filling. $12, at Up Restaurant, 3995 Westheimer in Highland Village Shopping Center, 713.640.5416.

Transatlantic Table Hopping

Sun, 09 Oct 2011 06:47:53 GMT

Howard and I have been trying to get into el Bulli long before chef Ferran Adri%26agrave;, the world%26rsquo;s most influential culinary genius, announced he would close his famed restaurant at the end of July 2011. When it comes to reservations, I am relentless. So I decide I will %26mdash; no matter what %26mdash; get a reservation for Howard and me to celebrate our March birthdays. Located on Spain%26rsquo;s Catalan coast, el Bulli receives 2,000,000 reservation requests each year yet grants only 8,000 spots. But even this fact does not deter me.

After asking a friend (who shall remain nameless) for help, we begin to realize that my wish might come true. At that moment, I decide that if we are going to fly all the way to Spain for a meal, we might as well try for a reservation at Noma in Copenhagen %26mdash; the only restaurant to attempt to knock el Bulli from its coveted spot as the best restaurant in the world. I have tried for months to get a reservation at Noma, going so far as to put my name on their waitlist for any future date %26mdash; all to no avail, of course. Then I think, if my friend was able to work her magic at el Bulli, then maybe she could do the same at Noma? We would have to wait and see. Hello, Jim Strong Travel, we need two tickets to Barcelona, please.

Travel Annotations
Day one consists of arrival in Barcelona, with no luggage in sight. On day two, the luggage arrives, and our adventure begins. We drive two hours to Roses, a town on the Costa Brava, 20 minutes from el Bulli and 20 miles from the French border. The drive to the restaurant is a harrowing rite of passage. We drive straight up a very narrow coastal road with no guardrails and only room for one car %26mdash; el Bulli is the only thing at the top of the hill. We arrive and are immediately taken into the massive kitchen to meet Ferran Adri%26agrave;, the chef I have admired for so long %26mdash; the chef who changed the gastronomic world forever. We%26rsquo;re escorted to our table in a comfortable room (past volumes upon volumes of books that have been written about and by Adri%26agrave;, as every dish he has created has been photographed
and chronologically logged into five volumes) and seated for what would be the most extraordinary meal of our life. So far.
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el Bulli%26rsquo;s Theatrical Production
Course one is called Pillow Like a Cocktail %26mdash; and is shaped like a pillow, naturally. We are told to eat it as one bite, for the minute it hits your tongue, it immediately dissolves into a pi%26ntilde;a colada %26mdash; an honest-to-God pi%26ntilde;a colada. Next is a mojito sandwich, crafted to look like a submarine sandwich. Once again, it melts in your mouth as if you have just taken a long swill of the perfect mojito. Are you with me? He plays with your senses, stimulating them in a playful and provocative way. He takes the very best of each ingredient and, through temperature and technique, completely transforms it, all while keeping the flavors pure. He reinvents food, yet his cuisine has the same kind of clarity of flavor as simple cooking.At this very moment, I realize this will be the single greatest culinary experience of our lives. As I photograph each of the 49 incredible courses (as does everyone else in the restaurant), I take copious notes and discuss with Howard each preparation and why Adri%26agrave; deserves the three Michelin stars he continues to receive. Take the caviar cream with hazelnut caviar, for example. The cream is actually shaped to looklike caviar balls, and the caviar is pur%26eacute;ed into a cream %26mdash; the appearance of caviar and cream is there, and your original knowledge of what caviar and cream should taste like is there, but they are switched in your mind upon tasting. When you read about his cooking, you read the words: foam, air, spherification, emulsification and liquefaction %26mdash; words you can%26rsquo;t describe until you taste his deconstructed food, showcased in dishes such as:

%26bull; Tiramisu, which in your mind is tiramisu, but through reconstruction is actually fish that tastes exactly like tiramisu.

%26bull; The olive oil chip that is hard to the touch but dissolves to a liquid tablespoon of delicious oil the second it hits your tongue.

%26bull; Germinated pine nuts that are the hollowed-out inside of the pine nut. Really? Someone peels a pine nut?

%26bull; And truffle cake made only of truffles and nothing else. In other words, I only wish Howard had not liked his so much.

Four-and-a-half hours later, a beautiful, oversized jewelry box arrives and is opened to display the most delicious array of desserts I have ever seen. It%26rsquo;s enough to serve the entire restaurant, but the jewel box is just for us. There are branches of chocolate %26ldquo;coral%26rdquo; covered in sour cherry powder for color; dark-chocolate-covered mint leaves; peanut butter and chocolate bites shaped like and with the texture of a peanut; and more.At the five-hour mark, we pick up the four books we have asked Adri%26agrave; to sign and head back down the hill to Roses, pleasantly full and sad to think that we may never experience anything like this again %26hellip; until I check my e-mails. As we are driving down the hill, I find that after all my phone calls and e-mails to Noma, we actually have a reservation there. And in two days! Hello, Jim Strong Travel, two tickets to Copenhagen, please.
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Noma%26rsquo;s Natural Illusion
Ren%26eacute; Redzepi is chef and owner of what was named the best restaurant in the world in 2010. We cannot wait to see what Redzepi %26mdash; who worked at el Bulli and our favorite stateside restaurant, The French Laundry %26mdash; will prepare to prove why he should retain his number-one standing. Noma is based in a warehouse that dates back to 1767 on the water in Copenhagen. It is casual in nature %26mdash; no tablecloths and an unpretentious way of serving. Because of the open kitchen, you realize that while the waiters are responsible for the majority of the service, you may find yourself served by one of the chefs who created the dish %26mdash; in fact, all Noma chefs serve guests. When we arrive, we are greeted by
chef Redzepi and his head chef, Matthew Orlando. I knew Matt from his days at Per Se in New York, and it was a treat to see him again. And so begins our second culinary adventure: Our first of 23 courses is housed in the centerpiece. Our waiter instructs us to eat the twigs, which are malt flatbread and juniper. It%26rsquo;s easy to see how the time he spent at el Bulli has shaped his presentation.

Course two is also a dish pretending to be something it is not, with nature clearly a direct influence. It is moss made of cep powder, followed by seabuckthorn leather and pickled rose hips. Incredible. Then there are the leeks hollowed out and stuffed with a goat cheese and garlic and fried at the tip. Again, how does one hollow out a leek? Other standouts include:

%26bull; Pickled and smoked quail eggs served on a small tray of hay, where a tiny incision is made in the bottom of the egg, and with a hand-held food smoker, the hay is burned to trap smoke in the egg.

%26bull; Beignets wrapped around a smoked whole herring. Who thinks this stuff up?

%26bull; Rye bread, chicken skin, lumpfish roe and smoked cheese.

%26bull; Reindeer tongue, apple malt and browned butter %26mdash; the first time I use a knife, and okay, maybe a dish I could do without.

Halfway through the meal, you realize Noma gives guests the best possible impression of the season. The philosophy is based on the region, as this is truly Nordic cuisine. If you think you%26rsquo;ve had Nordic cuisine in the past, I promise you, you have not. Again, we are dining for four-and-a-half hours in a restaurant that is incredibly inventive yet focuses on clean flavors. We are told the menu changes are dictated by availability, and the ingredients are organic and locally sourced. Redzepi, like Adri%26agrave;, has reinvented food.

Dare to Compare
We realize that we have eaten in what the world considers the number-one and -two restaurants in the universe. In four days, we%26lsquo;ve traveled more than 23,256 miles, eaten 72 courses between el Bulli and Noma, and spent five hours at each establishment. There is no way to compare these two chefs %26mdash; you could never do them justice.
As we try to think about the experience as a whole, the only reference we can make is that we have sat for 10 hours with an original dish as a starting point and a memory of what that dish should taste like. In the hands of these chefs, a transformation takes place, with the end result being recognizable features of the original dish, but presented in a completely unrecognizable way.

Commandeering el Bulli
for the Last TimeIn my attempt to secure one last reservation at el Bulli as a graduation gift to our foodie son, Matthew, I give what I think is an Academy Award%26ndash;winning performance to the ma%26icirc;tre d%26rsquo;. He is not impressed. Several e-mails later, he finally agrees to speak by phone about an idea Adri%26agrave; has that I might be interested in: buying out the entire restaurant. For one night, he would charge a fortune, with the money going to his foundation opening in 2014 in the present location of el Bulli. I run the idea by Howard, who thinks I have lost my mind, and he says it will never work. Big mistake to doubt me. I ask Ferran for 48 hours to see if I could do it: sell 50 seats to 50 food fanatics, charge them $3,400 a head, ask them to fly to Barcelona, drive two hours to the Costa Brava, spend the night in what one would think of as a Spring Break%26ndash;style hotel, drive up and over a treacherous mountain, have the most extraordinary meal of your life and reverse all of the above the very next day. Thirty hours later, I have 50 seats sold and 26 on the waitlist. I convince Adri%26agrave; to let me have five more seats by saying,%26ldquo;$3,400 a head, and you can%26rsquo;t find six more seats?%26rdquo; So not the European way, but it works.We go. We dine. We drink. And no one falls off the mountain. It%26rsquo;s the experience of a lifetime. The lucky 56 are: Howard and I, Matthew Looney, Lindsey and Patrick Collins, Deedie and Rusty Rose, Catherine and Will Rose, Caren Prothro, Marguerite Hoffman, KateHoffman, Cynthia and Forrest Miller, Nancy Marcus, Mary Noel and Bill Lamont, Fred Reid, Doreen Schmid, Ana Pettus, Karen and Richard Pollock, Joyce Goss, and Nancy Nasher and David Haemisegger from Dallas; Roland Augustine, Kinga Lampert, Hannah Hoffman, Glenn and Amanda Fuhrman, Virginia Lebermann, John Wotowicz, Jane Jackson, Lela Rose and Brandon Jones, John Pfeiffer, Robert Levy and Mike Clifford from New York City; Caroline Styne, Michael Kohn, Beth Swofford and Alan Hergott from Los Angeles; Deborah Green, Clayton Aynesworth, Lora Reynolds and Quincy Lee from Austin; Lee Hudson and Cristina Salas-Porras from Napa Valley; Dick and Pam Kramlich from San Francisco; David Graham from St. Barths; Georgia and Marc Quinn from London; Fernando and Soumaya Romero-Slim from Mexico City; and Fairfax Dorn from Marfa.

Take Note
Chef Ferran Adri%26agrave; will be interviewed by Frank Bruni at the New York City Wine and Food Festival on Saturday, October 1; 888.NYT.1870 or timestalks.com for more information.
There%26rsquo;s also el Bulli the movie, el Bulli Cooking in Progress, at elbullimovie.com. For more information on the foraging chef Ren%26eacute; Redzepi and Noma, log onto noma.dk.

Chef Ferran Adri%26agrave; at el Bulli

Cindy Rachofsky, el Bulli chef Ferran Adri%26agrave;, Howard Rachofsky. Photo courtesy of Luciano Insua.

el Bulli sitting room. Photo courtesy of Luciano Insua.

el Bulli. Photo courtesy of Luciano Insua.

el Bulli dining room. Photo courtesy of Luciano Insua.

Three years of el Bulli dish documentation. Photo courtesy of Luciano Insua.

el Bulli%26rsquo;s meticulous presentations.

A common occurrence at el Bulli.

Plating at el Bulli. Photo courtesy of Luciano Insua.

Exterior of Noma. Photo by Mads Damgarrd.

Chef Ren%26eacute; Redzepi at Noma. Photo by Ditte Isager.

el Bulli. Photo courtesy of Luciano Insua.

Noma. Photo by Ditte Isager.

el Bulli. Photo courtesy of Luciano Insua.

Plating at Noma. Photo by Ditte Isager.

Noma dining room. Photo by Ditte Isager.

Noma.

The jewel box of desserts at el Bulli.

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Back to Class

Wed, 21 Sep 2011 03:38:51 GMT

When the kids head back to school this fall, you should hit the books, too %26mdash; cookbooks, that is. Saturday through Monday, September 17 through 19, the Metropolitan Cooking and Entertaining Show debuts at Reliant with none other than Southern butter maven Paula Deen and household hinter Heloise headlining. As the event is tied to the Beard House in New York, organizers are tapping Houston James Beard Award winners chef Robert Del Grande and PC%26rsquo;s own Laurann Claridge; award nominees%26nbsp; Bryan Caswell; and Beard House chefs John Tesar (now at The Commissary in Dallas) and San Antonio chef Jason Dady (The Lodge Restaurant of Castle Hills) to teach cooking classes. And did we mention the workshops, from etiquette to entertaining. Even flower artist Rebeckah Johnson of Bergner %26amp; Johnson will be on hand, showing us how she decorates all those spectacular galas. There will also be tastings, cookbook signings and shopping with vendors from all over the country. Information and tickets metrocooking.com.

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Images:

Laurann Claridge. Photo by Steve Henry.

Robert Del Grande.

Paula Deen.

Kitchen Talk with BubblyQ

Tue, 20 Sep 2011 06:12:31 GMT

We love nothing more than a dinner date at Fearing%26rsquo;s %26mdash; especially when it%26rsquo;s Young Texans Against Cancer%26rsquo;s annual BubblyQ party, held throughout the famous Ritz-Carlton, Dallas restaurant, patio and bar. Last year, our inner foodie went mad with delight as chef chairman Dean Fearing tapped a dozen of his gourmand pals to man their own pop-up tasting stations.

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With this year%26rsquo;s event on the social horizon (bright young things must save the date for Thursday, October 13), we buzzed three of this year%26rsquo;s participating chefs, asking them to spill their favorite party-bite recipes. Herewith, your BubblyQ cookbook courtesy of this trio of culinary masterminds: Fearing, Scott Romano (Charlie Palmer at The Joule, A Luxury Collection Hotel) and Jim Severson (Sevy%26rsquo;s Grill). In the words of Julia Child, %26ldquo;Bon Appetit!%26rdquo;

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Scott Romano%26rsquo;s Sauteed Scallops with Sweet Corn Ragout and Pancetta Balsamic

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Saut%26eacute;ed Scallops %26nbsp;

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8 scallops, U-7%26nbsp;

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

3 sprigs thyme

2 shallots, sliced

Kosher salt

Fresh white pepper

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1. Clean the scallops free of the side mussel.

2. Season the scallop with salt and fresh, white pepper.

3. In a large saut%26eacute; pan heat the olive oil till slight smoking point.

4. When the scallops start to lightly caramelize add the butter, thyme, and shallots.

5. Using a large spoon baste the scallops with the butter and fresh thyme.

6. Cook the scallops till medium and remove them from the pan. Let the scallops rest on the side.

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Sweet Corn Ragout %26nbsp;

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2 cups corn, cut off cob

3 tablespoons butter%26nbsp;

3 shallots, minced

2 tablespoons black garlic, sliced

1 tablespoon parsley, chopped

1 tablespoon celery leaves, chopped

Salt to taste

Fresh white pepper to taste

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1. In a medium saut%26eacute; pan brown the butter till the milk solids start to caramelize and smell like toasted nuts.

2. Add the corn to the saut%26eacute; pan and lightly saut%26eacute; the corn until tender.

3. Add the shallots and black garlic.

4. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

5. To finish the ragout toss in the chopped parsley and celery leaves.%26nbsp;%26nbsp;%26nbsp;

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Pancetta Balsamic %26nbsp;

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1/2 cup pancetta

3 cups balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon thyme, picked

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 each shallots, miced

1 tablespoon sugar, granulated

1 tablespoon butter

Salt to taste

Fresh white pepper to taste

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1. In a small pot add the olive oil and pancetta. Render the pancetta well.

2. Add in the shallots and sweat till translucent.

3. Add the picked thyme and balsamic vinegar.%26nbsp;

4. Reduce the balsamic vinegar by 3/4.

5. Finish the sauce with the butter.

6. Adjust the acidity using sugar to taste.

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Dean Fearing%26rsquo;s Deep in the Heart of Texas Backyard Barbecue Chicken

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Barbecue Chicken

1 whole chicken (3-4 pounds) cut into quarters

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Salt to taste

Black pepper to taste

Dried thyme to taste

Crushed red bell pepper flakes to taste

3 cups Sonny Bryans Barbecue Sauce

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1. Rinse the whole chicken under running water.%26nbsp;

2. Cut chicken into quarters, brush with vegetable oil and season with salt, pepper, thyme, and pepper flakes on both sides. Set aside.

3. A clean grill is a happy grill: Make sure old ashes are discarded and grates are brushed clean. Add wood charcoal and ignite. When charcoal has burned to white ash, add chicken quarters skin side down. The process now is to render as much grease from the skin without burning the skin or causing the grease to flare-up on the fire and burn the skin. Take your time and be attentive to what is on the grill.

4. Add water soaked hickory chips (a small handful at a time) to the edge of the fire. This will start the smoking process. Seal in the smoke with a lid or the top of the grill. Keep an eye on the chicken and turn when skin is rendered about 8-10 minutes. If the smoke dies down, add another handful of hickory chips.

5. Grill and smoke chicken for about 15 additional minutes making sure the meat is cooking evenly on both sides. Then begin basting each piece of chicken with barbeque sauce. Don%26rsquo;t be afraid to swipe on the barbeque sauce heavy and keep turning each piece to prevent burning in one area of the grill.

6. Remove barbequed chicken from grill to a platter and serve family style with bowls of Country Greens-Cornbread Pan Stuffing and Peach-Jalapeno Chutney.

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Country Greens-Cornbread Pan Stuffing

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4 lb fresh collard greens

1.2 cup smoked ham hock

8 cups chicken stock, plus 2-3 cups more, if needed

1 large onion, peeled and kept whole

2 dried red chilies

1 teaspoon cracked black pepper

Salt to taste

Pepper vinegar to taste

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1 cup yellow cornmeal

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup sugar

4 teaspoons baking powder

%26frac12; teaspoon salt

1 cup milk

2 extra large eggs, lightly beaten

1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted (or melted bacon grease)

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1. To prepare the collard greens, pick through the greens, discarding any large stems and brown or yellow leaves. Wash thoroughly to remove all grit. With a knife cut the greens into bite-sized pieces.%26nbsp;

2. Place the ham hock, onion, chilies and pepper in a large pot over medium-high heat and add enough stock to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil. Then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer for 45 minutes.

3. Add the greens in 4 batches, stirring each batch down until wilted and submerged in the liquid.%26nbsp; If needed, add more stock to cover the greens by 1 inch.%26nbsp; Increase the heat, to medium and simmer, 40-60 minutes. The length of cooking time depends on the age of the greens; the older the greens, the longer it takes to tenderize them. The liquid (potlikker) should be reduced by 3/4. Remove the ham hock and remove meat from bones and cut into medium dice. Add back to greens, remove onion and chop fine and add back to greens. Season with pepper vinegar. Keep warm!

4. Preheat oven to 425.

5. Grease a 10-inch cast-iron skillet and place in oven.

6. Combine cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add milk, eggs and butter. Stir with a few rapid strokes until dry ingredients are just moistened.

7. Pour batter into hot pan. Place in pre-heated 425 oven and bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until edges are light brown and bread is firm. Remove from oven and let cool. With a knife cut cornbread into 1 inch dice

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Peach-Jalapeno Chutney

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5 ripe peaches

1 tablespoon finely diced ginger

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons lemon juice

%26nbsp;

1. Peel and pit all peaches, medium dice 3 peaches and place in bowl and set aside.

2. Puree the remaining peaches in a blender. Pour the mixture into a medium saucepan with ginger, sugar, cinnamon, and lemon juice. Bring pan to medium heat and reduce mixture, stirring occasionally, until thick for about 5 to 6 minutes. Pour diced peaches into saucepan and cook, stirring occasionally, for three minutes or until mixture is hot.%26nbsp; Remove and set aside.

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Jim %26ldquo;Sevy%26rdquo; Severson%26rsquo;s Red Chile Shrimp with Mango Black Bean Pico and Lime Butter

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%26nbsp;Shrimp

24 10/15 shrimp, peel and deveined

2 tablespoons Olive oil

1 teaspoon Sea salt

8 ounces Red chile puree (recipe below)

2 cups mango black bean pico (recipe below)

12 ounces Lime butter (recipe below)

8 cilantro sprigs (for garnish)

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1. Warm oil in large skillet.

2. Season shrimp with sea salt, then saute over medium heat until cooked to medium rare.

3. Add red chile puree, toss well until all shrimp are coated then set aside, off heat.

4. On service plate, mound 1/4 cup pico in center of plate. Ladle 1 ounce lime butter around pico, then arrange shrimp around pico. Garnish with cilantro, serve and enjoy!

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Red Chile Puree

%26nbsp;

4 Cascabel peppers

4 Ancho chile peppers

1 cup white onion, medium dice

6 cloves garlic, rough chop

2 teaspoons sea salt

1 tablespoon sugar

2 ounces lime juice

2 tablespoons cilantro leaves

2 cups water

1 tablespoon olive oil

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1. Remove stems and seeds from peppers.

2. Put peppers and water in sauce pot, bring to a boil then remove from heat and steep 2-3 minutes.

3. Strain and save liquid.

4. In same sauce pot, heat oil then saute onions and garlic until soft.

5. Add peppers to garlic/onion mixture, plus 1 cup of reserved liquid.

6. Place in blender with lime juice, salt, sugar and cilantro. Puree until smooth.

7. Use additional reserved liquid if necessary to make a loose puree.

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Mango Black Bean Pico

%26nbsp;

1 cup black beans, cooked

1 cup mango, medium dice

1 cup tomato, medium dice

1 cup red bell pepper, medium dice

1 cup green bell pepper, medium dice

1 cup red onion, medium dice

2 tablespoons cilantro, chopped

1 tablespoon lime juice

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons sea salt

%26nbsp;

1. Combine all ingredients and let set before service.

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Lime Butter

%26nbsp;

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 shallots, peeled and chopped

4 ounces White wine

2 ounces Lime juice

2 Kaffir lime leaves

4 ounces cream

8 ounces butter, cut into 1 ounce pieces

1 teaspoon sea salt

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1. In sauce pot, warm olive oil and saute shallots until soft.

2. Add white wine, lime juice and kaffir leaves and reduce by half.

3. Add cream and reduce by half again.

4. Reduce heat, whisk in butter slowly.

5. Season with salt, strain, then keep warm until service.

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Rise and Shine

Wed, 30 Mar 2011 06:48:40 GMT

Chef Greg Martin is at it again. The talented R+D man behind the range at Caf%26eacute; Express corporate has been hard at work expanding the fast-casual chain%26rsquo;s breakfast offerings, first rolled out last year. With a zeal to purvey the tastiest products from every corner of the globe and a Cook%26rsquo;s Illustrated%26ndash;like curiosity to find the best prep for anything, Martin has devised scrumptious egg offerings such as his miga-like South of the Border platter with scrambled eggs topped with creamy queso and tortilla chips, and a Breakfast BLT on butter-toasted brioche and scrambled eggs. Despite my fondness for the egg, however, nothing can compare to the French toast %26agrave; la Caf%26eacute; Express. French bread is drenched in cream and topped with powdered sugar, fresh berries and glazed pecans, then served with a bubbling side of pecan praline syrup in lieu of maple. Now, that%26rsquo;s a dish worth waking up for. Breakfast served from 7 to 11 am daily at most locations (9 to 11 am Tuesday through Sunday at the Museum of Fine Arts, downtown).

We Love This

Fri, 25 Feb 2011 05:44:10 GMT

The tart tatin from the new Schiller-Del Grande restaurant, Ava in West Ave, is a meltingly good, flaky, cream-cheese pastry baked over slices of green apple arranged in caramelized butter and sugar, with fresh whipped cream. Served lunch and dinner, $8.50.

Photo by Jenny Antill.

Taste Temptation

Mon, 29 Nov 2010 01:28:53 GMT

Tempt Santa to linger longer %26mdash; and unpack more gifts %26mdash; with chef-prepared, handmade holiday cookies. From $1.50 each to a dozen for $13.50 and up, at Michael%26rsquo;s Cookie Jar.

Shall We Sous for Supper

Wed, 11 Aug 2010 09:16:25 GMT

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times. No really, it was. I was a poor college student in Paris and had no clue where dinner was coming from. But that%26#8217;s what friends are for ... right? So when I received an sms, that is euro-speak for a text message, from token rich friend Juliette asking me to dine at her apartment I made haste in my response, %26#8220;Oui!%26#8221; So off I went that evening to the 16th Arrondissement (think upper east side without the American modesty and morality).

Upon arriving with my measly half-drunken bottle of beaujolais nouveau %26#8212; economic circumstances dictated that be the hostess gift %26#8212; I was taken directly to the kitchen to see la pr%26#233;paration of our meal. There on a countertop was what looked like, to me at least, an incredibly small jacuzzi and floating in it were flank steaks. %26#8220;Juliette, cherie, what is this?%26#8221; To which she replied %26#8220;This is an absolument super preparation for the beef! It is le sous-vide!%26#8221; While her English was, shall we say, operational she was French and gastronomically inclined, so I trusted her. And sure enough while flank steak was the order of the eve, in her kitchen cooking it %26#8220;sous-vide%26#8221; that humble cut%26#8217;s texture transformed to resemble a filet. This my friends was my first experience eating anything sous-vide.%26nbsp;

Haven%26#8217;t heard of Sous-vide? Nor had I, until ch%26#232;re amie Juliette exposed me to it on that fateful night. Sous-vide is an approach to food preparation through continued exposure to hot water. Not to be confused with boiling or poaching, sous-vide is French for %26#8220;under vacuum%26#8221; and is literally just that %26#8212; food that%26#8217;s vacuumed packed and submerged in warm circulating water.
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Cooking occurs during sous-vide due to prolonged exposure to lower heats; meaning, cuts of meat, poultry, fish or vegetables holistically reach a temperature. Standard cooking, on the other hand, yields items that are externally much hotter than internally (due to the outside%26#8217;s increased exposure to higher heat and often therefore unevenly cooked). Think of sending back a horrible steak or burger because of its charred exterior and cold, bloody interior.

Sous-vide%26#8217;s first major use was in the three-star Troigros family restaurant in Roanne, France during the 70s (it was found to improve foie gras%26#8217;s texture without compromising fat content). Talk about a triumph! Throughout the past decade the technique has re-emerged in leading kitchens the world over. And now, thanks to the foodies over at Williams-Somona, all the necessary equipment is available to the public. Meaning you too can sous-vide with the best of %26#8216;em! All I know is that after my initial experience I think I might forgo deep-frying my turkey, just this year, and sous-vide it! I%26#8217;m already getting my bathtub ready.

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%26nbsp;Image: Courtesy Food %26amp; Love Blog

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Cast One’s Bread Upon the Waters

Mon, 26 Jul 2010 04:52:05 GMT

Houstonian Elena Davis began thinking about a mission statement to support homeless people%26#8217;s most basic need %26#8212; water %26#8212; when she was approached a year ago at a traffic light by a homeless person asking for money. She had no cash in hand, only a cold bottle of unopened water, so she gave him that (it was 98 degrees in the middle of July). She received such grateful thanks that she began thinking about how people living in our city streets can find fresh water during our long, hot summers. From that encounter grew the I Am Waters Foundation. Davis persuaded a graphic designer to create labels that offer the words Peace, Love arranged to shimmer through the water %26#8212; a double blessing, hydration and the kindest of words designed to communicate and support. This summer, I Am Waters will distribute 40,000 bottles of water through various established shelters, relying totally on volunteers for the distribution effort. For information or to make a donation, go to iamwaters.com; elena@iamwaters.com.

Destination Henderson Avenue

Fri, 25 Jun 2010 11:57:11 GMT

A French limed-oak and olive-ash desk at William-Christopher Design. Bluefin tuna super toro at Tei Tei Robata Bar. A rare vintage Knoll Scissor chair at Form. Jukebox selections and draft beer at The Slip Inn. There%26#8217;s so much to love on our bustling North Henderson Avenue %26#8230; %26nbsp;

Where the Pros Go
We asked a handful of high-profiles on the avenue to disclose their favorite North Henderson haunts.

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Image: Park; photo by Jenny Antill

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Donald Chick
Owner, Park, Bar C%26#233;line
Clothing shop of choice: We Are 1976.
Design shop you frequent: Again Design Studio.
Great meal: Pizza and beer at Louie%26#8217;s; lunch at The Porch.
Favorite bar and the cocktail you order: An IPA on the patio at Barcadia.
A hidden jewel: The Pearl Cup.
Best purchase: So many great pieces for Bar C%26#233;line came from Again Design Studio and Again %26amp; Again.
I would like to see: Increased pedestrian traffic, a weekly farmers%26#8217; market and more independent boutiques.

Leslie Pritchard
Owner, Again %26amp; Again, Again Design Studio
In a few years, I envision Henderson: As the Lovers Lane of east Dallas, offering a high-low mix of dining and retail with a decidedly bohemian flair.
Clothing shop of choice: The Gypsy Wagon %26#8212; their sundresses are adorable!
Design shop you frequent: Nick Brock Antiques.
Favorite bar and the cocktail you order: The Marsha Marsha Marsha at Bar C%26#233;line.
A hidden jewel: Vert Fitness %26amp; Wellness Center %26#8212; it%26#8217;s like having your own private gym!
Best purchase: I got a vintage Laurel lamp from Form %26#8212; they have a great selection of mid-century pieces.
Best experience: The $20 wash and blow-dry by Annelle on Wednesdays at Halo Salon.

Hector Garcia
Owner, Hector%26#8217;s on Henderson
Design shop you frequent: William-Christopher Design %26#8212; they are great neighbors!
Great meal: I like the chicken enchiladas con salsa verde at Caf%26#233; San Miguel.
Favorite bar and the cocktail you order: I do enjoy going to Vickery Park to drink a good beer %26#8212; they have a great staff and they work hard to take care of everybody.
Best experience: Opening Hector%26#8217;s on Henderson in 2004.
I would like to see: More residential properties built with good design standards.

Image: Natsumi Gelato + Frozen Yogurt

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The Little Black Book of the N. Henderson Avenue Area

Beverages and Bites

Bar C%26#233;line, 1921 N. Henderson Ave., 214.824.3343; barceline.com
Barcadia, 1917 N. Henderson Ave., 214.821.7300; barcadiadallas.com
The Blue Collar Bar, 1924 N. Henderson Ave., 214.826.2164; bluecollarbar.net
Caf%26#233; San Miguel, 1907 N. Henderson Ave., 214.370.9815; pomerita.com
Candleroom, 5039 Willis Ave., 214.370.4155; candleroomdallas.com
Capitol Pub, 2401 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.887.9330; capitolpubdallas.com
Dickey%26#8217;s Barbecue Pit, 4610 N. Central Expressway, 214.370.4550; dickeys.com
Fireside Pies, 2820 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.370.3916; firesidepies.com
Fish City Grill, 2323 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.826.3474; fishcitygrill.com
Glo Lounge, 2323 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.824.2271; glo-lounge.com
The Hacienda on Henderson, 2326 N. Henderson Ave., 214.515.9990; %26#8232;haciendaonhenderson.com
Hector%26#8217;s on Henderson, 2929 N. Henderson Ave., 214.821.0432; %26#8232;hectorsonhenderson.com
Hibiscus, 2927 N. Henderson Ave., 214.827.2927; hibiscusdallas.com
J Black%26#8217;s Feel Good Lounge, 2409 N. Henderson Ave., 214.613.2525; jblacks.com
Louie%26#8217;s, 1839 N. Henderson Ave., 214.826.0505
Natsumi Gelato + Frozen Yogurt, 2323 N. Henderson Ave., 214.823.1707; natsumiusa.com
Neighborhood Services Tavern, 2405 N. Henderson Ave.,214.827.2405
The Old Monk, 2847 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.821.1880; oldmonkdallas.com
Park, 1921 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.824.3343; parkhenderson.com
The Pearl Cup, 1900 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.824.9500; thepearlcup.com
The Porch, 2912 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.828.2916; theporchrestaurant.com
The Slip Inn, 1806 McMillan Ave., %26#8232;214.370.5988; theslipinn.com
Sushi Axiom, 2323 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.828.2288; sushiaxiom.net
Tei Tei Robata Bar, 2906 N. Henderson Ave., 214.828.2400; teiteirobata.com
Urbino Pizza e Pasta, 2323 N. Henderson Ave., 214.821.0044
Veritas Wine Room, 2323 N. Henderson Ave., 214.841.9463; veritaswinedallas.com
Vickery Park, 2810 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.827.1432; vickeryparkbar.com
Victor Tango%26#8217;s, 3001 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.252.8595; victortangos.com

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Image: Sputnik Modern

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Fashion and Home Design

Again and Again, 5207 Bonita, %26#8232;214.826.6666; againandagain.com
Again Design Studio, 2003 N. Henderson Ave., 214.826.6777
Another Time %26amp; Place, 2815 N. Henderson Ave., 214.824.1875; anothertimeandplace.com
Art is Art, 2811 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.823.8222; artisart.biz
Canterbury Antiques, 2923-A N. Henderson Ave., 214.821.5265; antiquesr4u.com
Brant Laird and Consignment Heaven, 2901 N. Henderson Ave., 214.823.4100; brantlaird.com
Emeralds to Coconuts, 2730 N. Henderson Ave., 214.823.3620; emeraldstococonuts.com
Form, 1900-A N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.515.9448; formdallas.com
The Gypsy Wagon, %26#8232;2928 N. Henderson Ave., 214.370.8010; the-gypsy-wagon.com
Jones Walker Home, %26#8232;3010 N. Henderson Ave., 469.916.5500; joneswalkerhome.com
La Mariposa, 2813 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.826.0069; lamariposaimports.com
The Laundry, 2323 N. Henderson Ave., 214.538.5325; thelaundrydallas.com
Milton Kent Antiques, 2819 N. Henderson Ave., 214.826.7553
Nick Brock Antiques, 2909 N. Henderson Ave., 214.828.0624; nickbrockantiquesonline.com
Pandemonium, 2726 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.370.5677; pandemoniumltd.com
Sputnik Modern, 1901 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.887.6221; sputnikmodern.com
The Whimsey Shoppe, 2923 N. Henderson Ave., 214.824.6300; thewhimseyshoppe.com
William-Christopher Design, 2933 N. Henderson Ave., 214.528.3434; w-cdesign.com
The Wooden House, 2918 N. Henderson Ave., 214.823.0002; thewoodenhouse.org
We are 1976, 1902 N. Henderson Ave., %26#8232;214.821.1976; weare1976.com

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Image: The Porch; photo by Adam Fish

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Groceries, Salons and Services

Alamo Glass %26amp; Mirror Co., 2823 N. Henderson Ave., 214.821.2886; alamoglassco.com
Brown Mountain Art %26amp; Antique Restoration, 2809 N. Henderson Ave., 214.824.3205; %26#8232;brownmountainrestoration.com
Halo, 5010 Miller Ave., 214.823.3600; halo-hair.com
Muse the Salon, 2323 N. Henderson Ave., 214.821.3434
Newflower Farmers Market, 1800 N. Henderson Ave., 214.826.2937; sfmarkets.com/locations/texas
Vert Fitness %26amp; Wellness Center,1909 N. Henderson Ave., 214.883.2468; vertfit.com

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Image: Laura Walters Abrams%26#8217; "Sugar Magnolia," 2008%26nbsp;

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Sculpture Along the Avenue
Contemporary Texas artists are celebrated along the North Henderson corridor thanks to an innovative public art project that places sculpture at seven locations for a two-year period. Debuting this spring, Henderson Art Project drew more than 70 statewide entrants, while a mighty panel of 80-plus experts weighed in, including Nasher Sculpture Center curator Jed Morse, Valley House Gallery%26#8217;s Kevin Vogel and current Dallas cultural commissioner at large Phillip E. Collins. They winnowed the field down to seven sculptures, whose creators received stipends to cover installation costs. The works sprout over a multi-block area, from 1800 North Henderson (where Andrea Reich Fender%26#8217;s surreal Heaven%26#8217;s Door evokes a celestial phone booth) to 3010 North Henderson (Juanluis Gonz%26#225;lez%26#8217;s masculine columns of metal, Opus 1).%26nbsp; After the finalists were announced, voting online and at area merchants anointed three winners. The first-place People%26#8217;s Choice Award ($3,500) went to Laura Walters Abrams for her lyrical Sugar Magnolia. Chris Lattanzio captured second-place honors ($2,500) for his abstract Yellow Rose, while Michelle O%26#8217;Michael placed third ($1,500) for her dramatic crimson steel Prairie Fire. Also among the finalists were George Tobolowsky for Outside the Circle and Eric Ober for Red Dancer. Andres Properties and Phoenix Property Company were the supreme patrons that underwrote the inaugural Henderson Art Project, while Dallas sculptor Scott Trent founded and serves as executive director of HAP. And coming at press time: an audio installation by Dallas guest artist Stephen Lapthisophon, sampled from the voices of neighborhood Bonham Elementary students, to be installed at the DART stop at 2740 North Henderson. For images of the winning sculptures, click to hendersonartproject.com. Catherine D. Anspon

Click It
For new retail and restaurant updates, be sure to bookmark these Web sites: keephendersonreal.com and keephendersonreal.com.

Oops!

Wed, 26 May 2010 11:55:50 GMT

So excited were we at the thought of lamb pies and 40 drafts on tap that we typo%26#8217;d the name of the chef in charge! The man behind the Meddlesome Moth%26#8217;s smoked Arctic char salads and Prince Edward Island mussels is Chad Kelley, not Brad, as we wrote in our May issue. We regret the error %26#8212; and owe Chad a tall, foamy Franconia Dunkel.

Meet Me at the Market

Mon, 01 Mar 2010 11:05:20 GMT

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Image: Julie Rhyne and Jeannine Holland; Credit: Jenny Antill

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Tres Market

(12699 Memorial Dr., 713.365.0722; 5115 Buffalo Speedway, 713.667.0722; tresmarketfoods.com)

Owners: Julie Rhyne and Jeannine Holland.

What do you get when two bubbly blondes %26#8212; one who dabbled in catering in Dallas (Julie Rhyne) and the other (Jeannine Holland) who once owned retail shops in Houston %26#8212; join forces? A completely unique, grab-a-meal-and-go scenario called Tres Market. Rhyne met fellow-mom Holland at soccer practice and struck up a conversation. Soon the two were chattering nonstop about food. Meticulous plotting and planning didn%26#8217;t prepare them, though, for the concept they%26#8217;d eventually launch, or envision the clever hybrid it%26#8217;s morphed into. %26#8220;We thought the catering aspect would be the big draw,%26#8221; Rhyne says. %26#8220;We put out some prepackaged items in our merchandise displays, and immediately the concept changed directions.%26#8221;

Launched as a casual catering company with an arm dedicated to prepackaged, prepared meals (for two and a half, five or ten), the pair soon realized the market demand in their suburban Memorial area dictated just the opposite. Their emphasis shifted, and now 85 percent of their sales consist of prepared meals to go, wonderful home-cooked creations from mac and cheese to chicken divan. At either location, you%26#8217;ll find busy cooks readying meals in open kitchens bordered by rows of refrigeration packed with dozens of delicious meal options.

Rhyne explains that their aim was never to compete with restaurants (nor with the two behemoth chain supermarkets that sandwich their newest West U locale). %26#8220;Everybody should eat at restaurants occasionally, but everybody should eat good food often,%26#8221; she says. %26#8220;And that%26#8217;s what we offer.%26#8221;

What%26#8217;s on the menu?: Whether you%26#8217;re grabbing dinner for the family or want a moveable feast good enough to plate on your fine china, pass these off as home-cooked: cheese wafers, green chili artichoke dip, asparagus wraps, sour cream rolls, baked eggplant, grilled pork tenderloin, pepper jack chicken, pot roast, tamale pie, spinach-and-ham braid and jambalaya.

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Image: Jerrell %26#8220;Rusty%26#8221; Powers; Credit: Jenny Antill%26nbsp;

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Byrd's Market %26amp; Cafe
(420 Main St., 713.225.0100; byrdsmarket.com)
Owner: Jerrell %26#8220;Rusty%26#8221; Powers.
Big-city dweller Rusty Powers is a veteran of the downtown meal scene. This long-time restaurateur and caterer now owns the only market situated in the midst of downtown Houston. Primed for success, his small market is stocked with locally grown organic fruit and vegetables, plus all the staples that nearby loft dwellers can fetch in a pinch, as well as gourmet goodies including Trentino gelato, select olive oils, organic pastas and European grocery items that mingle with plebe faves such as organic milk, Greek yogurt and house-made granola. Byrd%26#8217;s Market %26amp; Cafe perches in an Art Deco building at the corner of Prairie and Main in the former space of Byrd%26#8217;s Department Store %26#8212; hence the name. The two-story space is also home to a cafe whose wine and beer license allows you to drink your vino with sweet potato fries and a butternut-squash roasted-pork sandwich then take the remainder home along with your armful of groceries.
%26nbsp;%26nbsp;%26nbsp;%26nbsp; Powers is doing his best to make the smallest carbon footprint possible by supporting local purveyors and artisans such as Slow Dough Baking Company and Lola Savannah Coffee. %26#8220;We%26#8217;re not aiming to be Dean %26amp; Deluca. Rather, we make all the prepared food we sell in-house,%26#8221; Powers says. %26#8220;Our selections vary daily depending on the season and what our customers request, too.%26#8221;What%26#8217;s on the menu: Not sure what to try? Nibble your way through half-pints, pints or gallons of prepared salads and sides, such as orzo with orange and spinach, toasted chickpea salad, artichoke dip, roast chicken, sweet-and-sour vegetables and whole-wheat pasta in a spinach and shallot sauce. %26nbsp;

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Image: Chef Edelberto Goncalves and Cary Attar

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Hubbell %26amp; Hudson
(24 Waterway Ave., The Woodlands, 281.203.5600; hubbellandhudson.com)
Owner: Cary Attar.
The first time we strolled into this gleaming space smack in the center of all that%26#8217;s happening in the Woodlands, we were awed by the sheer variety of gourmet products, fresh meats, produce and prepared fare, all flawlessly merchandised. One part Dean %26amp; Deluca and one part Central Market, Hubbell %26amp; Hudson actually feels like a concept completely unto itself. But the inspiration did indeed come from those two prime examples of %26#8220;How To Do a Gourmet Market Right%26#8221;: Owner Cary Attar was once an employee of both. His spot-on branding (which includes more than 400 exceptional private-label products) allows the 1.5-year-old Hubbell %26amp; Hudson to hold its own in the competitive world of food procurement, where a culinary escape includes a market, bistro (more on that later), catering and cooking school encapsulated under one roof.
The 26,000-square-foot food market mecca has 15 departments ranging from seasonal produce of every variety imaginable to seafood flown in daily from points around the globe, a butcher shop with locally raised poultry, house dry-aged Angus beef, coffee beans roasted daily, aisles of candy (including the retro sort), bakery, organic spices, and sea salts and black peppers in bulk that you never dreamed you%26#8217;d find. Did I mention the beer alley with 400 small-batch and craft brews chilled at a constant temp of 42 degrees? How about the 600 boutique-wine selection that would pair beautifully with the artisan cheeses and charcuterie H%26amp;H stocks at the ready? %26#8220;For us to carry a product, our guests have to want it,%26#8221; Attar says. %26#8220;We prefer all natural and organic whenever possible. And there has to be a value to the product.%26#8221;
Next door, chef Edelberto Goncalves mans the range at the Bistro at Hubbell %26amp; Hudson, a chic contemporary restaurant with American fare such as seven-spiced braised pork osso bucco, ginger-glazed sea bass and wood-grilled free-range chicken made with local, all-natural and organic foodstuffs procured at the market next door.
What%26#8217;s on the menu: Whether you%26#8217;re grabbing dinner for the brood at home or planning ahead for a dinner party, you%26#8217;ll find offerings such as Maryland crab cakes, turkey meatloaf with apricot-ginger glaze, truffled polenta cakes, Israeli couscous salad, house-smoked salmon with all the fixings, sushi and vegetable antipasto.

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Image: Jim Reid; Credit: Jenny Antill

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Matthew's Market%26nbsp;
(6303 Edloe, 713.592.6200)

Owner: Jim Reid.

Commercial real estate developer and West University resident Jim Reid,%26nbsp;a former investor in the now-shuttered and much-beloved JMH Grocery, opened the new neighborhood haunt Little Matt%26#8217;s restaurant and this next-door boutique market after neighbors pleaded with him to replicate a small grocery like JMH. Matthew%26#8217;s Market is named for the former tenant, Matthew%26#8217;s Motor Company, which relocated when Reid bought the building. The enterprising developer (who prefers to retool an existing space rather than start from the ground up) created the concept with partner Greg Jones %26#8220;without spreadsheets. Instead it was built on faith and hope.%26#8221;

Little Matt%26#8217;s restaurant is clearly geared to children with its lavish candy counter, Icee drinks and game room chockablock with 15 Xboxes and video games designed to distract the kiddos for hours while mommy has a glass of Pinot and plays a few rounds of bunco. Outfitted with dark wood tables, cozy sofa and chairs, as well as picnic tables, and a dog water-and-treat bar outside, Little Matt%26#8217;s feels the rush when the three o%26#8217;clock school bell rings and children from West U Elementary pour in for comfort food and sweets charged on mummy%26#8217;s and daddy%26#8217;s house account.

Next door, Matthew%26#8217;s Market is inspired by such produce prodigies as Oakville Grocery in Yountville, California; Monica%26#8217;s Market in Seaside, Florida; and Austin%26#8217;s Fresh Plus. At Matthew%26#8217;s, you can find prepared meals to go and pantry fill-ins that run the gamut from Emeril%26#8217;s Dijon mustard to Colman%26#8217;s Mustard, Stubb%26#8217;s barbecue sauces, Newman%26#8217;s Own chunky salsa, tahini and ground coffee such as Caf%26#233; du Monde%26#8217;s chicory-blended variety.

What%26#8217;s on the menu: Besides stopping in for a gallon of milk, lettuce and bottled water, you can drop your children off in the next-door game room as you peruse the aisles for dinner. Prepared-fare options include pimiento cheese, King Ranch casserole, chicken soup, burritos, ham or spinach quiche and spaghetti with meat sauce.

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For more pictures, click on 'launch slideshow' above.

Urbano Cafe

Thu, 10 Dec 2009 05:31:46 GMT

1410 C Fitzhugh

214.823.8550

urbanodallas.com

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Who to know: I cried when panini palace Urbano Paninoteca on McKinney Avenue closed. I%26#8217;m smiling once again now that owners Kristen and Mitch Kauffman opened a place on Fitzhugh. What%26#8217;s different about this b%26#244;ite, nestled in East Dallas between Jimmy%26#8217;s Food Store and Spiceman%26#8217;s F.M. 1410? %26#8220;The big thing is BYOB,%26#8221; says Mitch. %26#8220;People are bringing multiple bottles of wine.%26#8221;

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From my notebook: In what was most recently the unglamorous Ted%26#8217;s Hamburgers, the Kauffmans restored the original building%26#8217;s aesthetics by making four layers of linoleum and the boarded transom windows disappear, and restoring the original pressed-tin ceilings %26#8230; Mitch is working the panini press and skillets during lunch but works the dining room at suppertime, when you can go for %26#224; la carte entrees and sides from the chalkboard %26#8230; Residents of Swiss Avenue, Munger Place and Lakewood are regulars %26#8230; Jackie Kennedy, the sought-after labor and delivery nurse at Baylor Hospital (who was also mine), stopped in for a panini at lunch %26#8230; My beloved parmesan-crusted chicken salad ($8.95) is still on the lunch menu %26#8212;%26#160;whew %26#8230; Take note of the photography by Scott Harben and Trevor Kobrin, showcasing opposing themes of desertscapes and Scottish castles. I think the photographs complement the white tablecloths and black-stained concrete floors nicely.%26#160;

Si Tapas Restaurant and Bar

Thu, 10 Dec 2009 05:54:21 GMT

2207 Allen St.

214.720.0324

sitapasdallas.com

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Who to know: Who doesn%26#8217;t miss the little tapas bar Hola!? Fret no more, as Hola! owner Ildefonso Jimenez has opened another tapas hot spot featuring the same family recipes he learned to cook in Madrid. While Hola! had a limited menu, this new eatery has plenty of choices.

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From my notebook: No one would recognize the former Watel%26#8217;s cottage %26#8212; it has gone to Spain with a coat of red paint, tables covered in butcher paper and a wall of wines %26#8230; Instead of having to pre-order paella a day in advance like the olden days at Hola!, you can now have it every night at Si %26#8230; The arroz blanco al ajillo con salsa de tomate y huevo frito %26#8212; you guessed it: white rice with garlic tomato sauce and fried eggs ($4.50) %26#8212; is a must-order comfort dish %26#8230; I was happy to see the crowd-pleasing pollo en cerveza (salted chicken in beer sauce, $5) on the menu again %26#8230; Loved executive chef Jose Lopez%26#8217; stylish mohawk %26#8230; House drinks are festive: Order them by the pitcher. Choose from Echegaray (cava, 10 Cane Rum and lime roses), sangria, or Agua de Valencia (cava, 10 Cane Rum and orange juice) %26#8230; Don%26#8217;t ask for iced tea, as they don%26#8217;t serve it %26#8230; Grab a table on the front patio or in the backyard by the greenbelt, with the amazing view of downtown.

Park

Thu, 10 Dec 2009 05:31:03 GMT

1921 N. Henderson Ave.

214.824.3343

parkhenderson.com

%26#160;

Who to know: Can you name a place where you have four handsome gents working together to make something that%26#8217;s both successful and green? I can: It%26#8217;s the feel-good Park. It%26#8217;s easy to crush on owner Donald Chick, chef Marc Cassel, decorator Breck Woolsey, and landscape designer Jason Pautz at this communal indoor/outdoor eatery.

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From my notebook: The groovy interiors are inspired by Charles and Ray Eames%26#8217; famous California home, featured in the book Case Study Homes that happens to reside on a shelf in booth #43 %26#8230; I went bananas over the original Thonet chairs, some from a convent, says Chick, encircling all tables near the bar %26#8230; Pink, blue or white shirts and jeans is the attire for the waitstaff %26#8212; they serve up everything from pizzas (from $14) to pork chops ($18) %26#8212; and are encouraged to wear the pay-it-forward Toms shoes %26#8230; Landscaper Pautz thinks he has placed more than 60 potted plants around the space %26#8230; All wines need not apply: The wine list is comprised of vegan, sustainable, organic, biodynamic and woman-owned winery vintages %26#8230; Their music selection is swoon-worthy %26#8212; think The Doors, Miles Davis and Carla Bruni %26#8230; Don%26#8217;t miss the bocce ball court with crushed oyster shells and the four spectator cabanas, all in the back of Park%26#8217;s parking lot %26#8230; Cocktails such as Jagger%26#8217;s Lips (Grey Goose gimlet with strawberries, guava and thyme) will keep me coming back for more.

Lumi Empanada %26 Dumpling Kitchen

Thu, 10 Dec 2009 05:47:31 GMT

3407 McKinney Ave.

214.979.2424

lumikitchen.com

%26#160;

Who to know:%26#160;Owner Susie Bui isn%26#8217;t a trained chef %26#8212;%26#160;but one would never know from her complex menu of Vietnamese-meets-Brazilian cuisine. (Chinese BBQ ribs and chicken empanadas, anyone?) She hails from a long line of family members who have handled both the keys and the spatulas at their own establishments.

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From my notebook: Ask for table number 25, the one centered in the front windows %26#8230; Share the following: Feijoada, a dish of black beans simmered with pork, served with jasmine rice and collard greens ($8); Thai panang curry chicken dumplings ($7); spinach, mozzarella and portabello empanadas ($6.50); and the cilantro and jalapeno shrimp rolls ($8.50) %26#8230; To wash all that deliciousness down, sip on hot chrysanthemum flower tea or Vietnamese drip coffee %26#8230; I liked the simple and neutral wood furnishings from IKEA and West Elm, selected by Bui and friend John Paul Valverde %26#8230; If the restaurant were an astrological sign, it would be a Gemini %26#8212; a light-filled, white-washed space during the day but dark and moody in the evening. %26#8220;At night,%26#8221; says Bui, %26#8220;it has a Bossa Nova feel.%26#8221; %26#160; %26#160;%26#160;

Bella Bar and Restaurant

Thu, 10 Dec 2009 05:37:01 GMT

2626 Howell St.

214.855.5001

belladallas.com%26#160; %26#160;

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Who to know:%26#160;Remember Bella owners Robert %26#8220;Peach%26#8221; Petrie and Anthony Porcaro from their Nick %26amp; Sam%26#8217;s days? These restaurant alums know a thing or two about customer recognition and a perfectly cooked filet. That%26#8217;s why they tapped executive chef Christopher Short to man the kitchen, known for carving his way to chef prominence from his days and nights at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek restaurant.

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From my notebook: Recharge with a Ginger Mango Johnson made with Absolut Mango vodka, orange and pineapple juice, orange bitters, and fresh ginger and basil %26#8230; For people-watching, the best view in the house is at the 40-foot bar; says Porcaro, %26#8220;The half-moon shape of the bar means no matter where you sit, you can still see everyone in the place.%26#8221; %26#8230; Start with the heirloom tomato tart with roasted tomatoes, goat cheese, baby arugula and a sundried tomato crust%26#160;($10) %26#8230; Move on to the braised-beef short rib with white cheddar mashers and pan sauce%26#160;($19) %26#8230; Finish with the lemon ricotta cheesecake ($8) %26#8230; I spotted music entrepreneurs John Kirtland and Angus Wynne at one table for lunch, and housing-development tycoon Tommy Guilds holding court at the next ... Sports hounds like the 101-inch outdoor flatscreen TV on the covered patio (which, by the way, can seat up to 50 of your closest friends).

Geisha House

Thu, 10 Dec 2009 05:39:32 GMT

2600 Cedar Springs

469.248.0640

geishadallas.com

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Who to know: I%26#8217;ll admit it. I sometimes secretly crave a meal at my childhood fave, Benihana. (Who doesn%26#8217;t?) Now we can have a Benihana moment %26#8212; but with much better d%26#233;cor %26#8212; in fabulous modern packaging at owner Michael Ma%26#8217;s Geisha House. No, this isn%26#8217;t the Geisha House of Hollywood restaurant fame, but the goal is to be just as notable, with the sleek atmosphere and huge menu here.

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From my notebook: Charming manager Pablo Cortez says, %26#8220;We want to take hibachi and great sushi to a different level.%26#8221; And they do, with the to-die-for Geisha House roll of soft-shell crab and spicy tuna covered with snow crab, avocado and spicy mayo ($14) %26#8230; Owner Ma %26#8212; an alum of Benihana %26#8212; teamed up with Royce Ring and Alex Urrunaga of Plan B, the restaurant-concept group, to chose wood-paneled accent walls, chocolate-brown leather banquettes and comfy, oversized chairs. (The Uptown crowd likes it here, and there%26#8217;s plenty of seat left over in those dining room chairs after they%26#8217;ve slid in with their Rock %26amp; Republics on.) Plan B even painted chopsticks red and white and cleverly arranged them in an exploding jumble for a wall installation %26#8230; For my next all-girls%26#8217; birthday dinner (a monthly date with friends), I%26#8217;m reserving the Tatami Room, with floor-level seating and a sunken table that seats 10 %26#8230; Geisha House%26#8217;s hibachi (or grill) room has six tables and seats up to 60 %26#8230; Like sports with your sushi? The attached Roppongi Bar is a candlelit lounge, with games showing on the TVs, followed by a different DJ nightly.

Charmed By This Pair

Mon, 30 Nov 2009 09:49:26 GMT

Two new friends, Deirdre Heekin and Caleb Barber, are, respectively, a very knowledgeable wine director and a chef %26#8212; and Heekin, it comes to pass, is quite the wordsmith. I first met these two in Woodstock, Vermont, one summer as they tended their celebrated bo%26#238;te, Osteria Pane e Salute, located in a charming second-story space that seats just 22 patrons, four nights a week. Both will be in Houston this month for a whirlwind of book signings and cooking engagements. Pick up their sensual and charming books, In Late Winter We Ate Pears: A Year of Hunger and Love and Libation: A Bitter Alchemy (Chelsea Green Publishing), at Brazos Bookstore; book signing Saturday, December 5, 3 to 5 pm. On Tuesday, December 1, Heekin and Barber are featured chefs at the opening of Canopy restaurant at 7 pm ($175 per person, benefitting Recipe for Success; reservations 713.520.0443; recipe4success.org). And finally, Libation is celebrated at a five-course dinner paired with drinks at T%26#8217;Afia on Friday, December 4; reservations tafia.com. Holly Moore