Paper City Article

The Man Who Saved Galveston

Thu, 28 Apr 2011 03:10:45 GMT

More than any living person, George Mitchell and his late wife, Cynthia, are responsible for preserving the Island%26rsquo;s storied past, restoring its extraordinary built environment and injecting new life into the fabled city of firsts (as in, Texas%26rsquo; first city to have electricity and telephone). Catherine D. Anspon sits down with the incomparable oil man %26mdash; a force still, in his 90s %26mdash; considers his legacy and asks what%26rsquo;s next for his birthplace.

How is Galveston interwoven into your family history?
My parents both came from Greece, and I was born on the island along with my brothers and sisters ... I lived [when I was growing up] right behind the Buccaneer Hotel. We had an apartment right above the hotel%26rsquo;s restaurant.

Childhood memory?
Galveston was an interesting city as a boy. It was a good place to go down to the beaches and go fishing on West Beach. A lot of fun. It was a nice place. And, really, they had great schools. I went to Ball High and had very good teachers. My father had a little dry-cleaning shop and shoeshine parlor, right behind the Buccaneer. He eked out a living. My parents were dedicated to making sure all of us got an education. We had four children, me and my brothers and sisters. We had to work to get through ... I used to fish for money. I would sell to Mike Gaido. Every time I%26rsquo;d catch a speckled trout or redfish, I%26rsquo;d go sell it for 25 cents a pound to him. I%26rsquo;d make my money in the summertime catching fish ... I went off to A%26amp;M when I was about 16 or 17. That%26rsquo;s the last I had of Galveston for awhile. My father was still alive when I got out of A%26amp;M, so I%26rsquo;d go down and see him. So I reconnected with Galveston.

Your college years?
I was going to go to Rice ... then I worked in an oilfield that year with Johnny, my older brother, who was a petroleum engineer with Exxon. I wanted to be an oil-and-gas man, so I had to go to A%26amp;M for a petroleum engineering and geology degree because Rice didn%26rsquo;t have that. At A%26amp;M, the first year was tough, getting enough money to stay in. About every 90 days, I%26rsquo;d have to pay up my room and board, which was about $90 ... so I%26rsquo;d wire my father. He knew the Maceos, and he%26rsquo;d take my telegram and go see Sam Maceo and say, %26ldquo;Sam Maceo, my son is at the top of his class, and he%26rsquo;s going to have to leave school.%26rdquo; And Sam would give him a $100 bill. He would keep $50, then give me $50. He was a shrewd duck.

Did your family immigrate through the port of Galveston?
No, my father came through Ellis Island, and my mother came through Tampa, Florida. He got a picture of her from the Greek newspaper in Houston %26mdash; a beautiful young lady that was arriving from Greece. So he clipped it out and put it in his wallet, and three months later, he got enough money to go down by train to Florida, to try to encourage her to leave her sister, who had another marriage set up for her. He broke that up, and they got married in Houston. So anyway, it worked out, and I had three brothers and sisters, and we all went to school ... Which is unusual, to have four children of a Greek family that went to college. And we were very lucky to have that chance.

What did you learn from your parents?
I learned from my father %26mdash; he was a conniver; he knew how to survive. If he needed $100, then he would get his friends to give him $100. He had a lot of perseverance. My mom was a beautiful person. And she was the one that kept the entire family from fighting each other. The Greeks fight all the time.

How did your get your start in business?
At A%26amp;M I was working in the mess hall, making a little money. I managed to get through the first year of college. Then the second, third and fourth year of college, I discovered a guy in San Antonio that could take you the same ole dull stationery and put beautiful gold things and silver [on it]. I mean, stately ... I had so much stationery business that I was making $300 per month. [After college] when I went to work in the oil business with Amoco in south Louisiana, I got $165 [a week]. So I took a cut in salary ... but anyway, a good decision. Then I got in with my brother Johnny in Houston ... I would do geology and engineering, and Johnny and another person helped us. I%26rsquo;d send Johnny to get a prospect done and buy those leases, then we would take that deal down to the Esperson Drug Store, where there was a gathering every Monday of business leaders ... and we would sell the deals back and forth ... We found a lot of oil and gas over the next five years ... When we started to work, we had three people in that little office in the Esperson Building. When we sold out in 2002, we had 1,500 people in natural gas and oil, and 1,000 in the Woodlands, so we had two big companies we sold.

Image: 1877 tall ship Elissa

First you got into the island real estate, then you got into preservation?
After developing Pirates Beach, I started doing restoration in Galveston, and Dancie Ware was helping, too. We were working on various projects ... When we first got into the Elissa, the budget was 750K, and it was a derelict vessel. We helped the society take it on ... sent it to Greece to get it seaworthy. I told them, %26ldquo;Watch out, the Greeks will rip you off.%26rdquo; And they did %26mdash; pretty good! The original 750K budget ended up being seven million. Elissa was a big project!

And was the restoration of the Elissa with your help?
Well, yes, I helped. The 1894 Grand Opera House was another very important project. It was originally anticipated to cost 600K to 800K and ended up costing us three or four million. The Opera House was beautiful. So those are the type of things that we helped get money lined up for.

Image: Charles Moore Arch

Your first building in Galveston?
The T. Jeff League, circa 1871, which became the Wentletrap Restaurant. We ended up with 20 buildings. Cynthia [Mitchell] did a lot of work. She was on the board of the National Trust and received an award. We had a great architect and designer work with Cynthia on the buildings and interiors.

Where did you meet Mrs. Mitchell?
I was going to A%26amp;M so Johnny, my brother, would always lease a railroad train to go to A%26amp;M football games, and I saw these twins at the back of the railroad car. She [Cynthia] and her twin sister went to UH ... I managed to dodge [Cynthia%26rsquo;s] boyfriend and get the telephone number.

Most significant Galveston milestones?
I suppose the Hotel Galvez and the Tremont. When we opened the Tremont, we got with Dancie Ware and thought, %26lsquo;What we%26rsquo;ll do is start Mardi Gras again%26rsquo; %26hellip; This was in %26lsquo;85 ... We had Texas and A%26amp;M bands. Pete Fountain came two or three times. Peter Duchin. Al Hirt. We got Galveston off to a good start!

Image: Michael Graves Arch

And you had those arches.
Oh, yeah, Dancie got seven of the top architects in the world to create arches for free, including Michael Graves. We still have all their designs. They did a beautiful job %26mdash; and did them because they said, %26ldquo;Galveston is important.%26rdquo; The arches became the icon.

What would you like to see happen in Galveston in the next decade?
I would like to see Mardi Gras continue and become a lot more popular ... I tell my children, %26ldquo;We have 20 buildings down the Strand. You%26rsquo;re 50 miles from the Strand in Houston. If you can%26rsquo;t make money out of those five million people, something is wrong with you. Get to work.%26rdquo;

How about gambling?
Well, we saw too much gaming when I was young ... slot machines, woman gambling to get money for food. However, if you put it under reasonable quality control like Biloxi, Mississippi, has, then I think it can be positive. Biloxi had done a hell of a job. Biloxi%26rsquo;s got about 50 casinos, getting four percent of the money, and that is what Galveston should try ... If you had, say, 20 casinos in Galveston that got four percent of all the gaming money ... boy, I%26rsquo;m telling you, Galveston would have so much money, they could do anything they wanted to do. Biloxi has kept it clean. And that%26rsquo;s what Galveston needs.

Image: Boone Powell Arch

Are you acquiring anything else?
I have 20 buildings now. We just got finished spending about $60 million on the three hotels and other buildings. The Tremont House is beautifully done. I had this beautiful bar in there that came from Austria in 1850, and I got all these e-mails asking not about the hotel, they wanted to know about the bar. I said, %26ldquo;Yes, we saved the bar ... now hurry come back and give us some business.%26rdquo;

Ideal day in Galveston?
I used to like to fish, number one, but I also liked to play golf or tennis. Anyhow, Galveston is just a nice place to go to the seashore ... all that history. But right now, with four-dollar gasoline, we%26rsquo;re getting a lot of people on the weekend. But wait till it hits five dollars. No one is going to go to Padre Island, all the places far away. They%26rsquo;re going to go to Galveston ... I like to go to the Olympia Grill. It%26rsquo;s right there on Pier 21 ... I like the fried soft-shell crab ... On weekends, I spend a lot of time in Galveston, keeping up with local people ... We have a meeting every Sunday at 12 o%26rsquo;clock at Luigi%26rsquo;s. About 10 or 15 people ... Sometimes Mayor Joe Jaworski comes. Right now, the big brouhaha is parking on the Seawall. And the elections.

London Calling

Mon, 29 Nov 2010 05:36:02 GMT

Needing a dose of artful culture far from home, I ran away to London %26mdash; one of my favorite cities in the world %26mdash; for a long weekend. This holiday, I found indulgent respite at One Aldwych, a contemporary luxury hotel housed in one of the most important Edwardian constructs in the city. This flatiron jewel was home to The Morning Post newspaper before hotelier Gordon Campbell Gray originally opened One Aldwych here 12 years ago. It%26rsquo;s situated in the midst of Central London in Covent Garden, within walking distance of the theater district, amid art galleries and museums ranging from the Tate Modern to the behemoth National Gallery just down the Strand. This is where London creative and corporate types mingle with the media, actors performing in nearby venues such as the Old Vic and fashion models from the agencies around the corner, all of whom flock to the buzzing Lobby Bar. One Aldwych%26rsquo;s intimate size %26mdash; just 105 rooms and suites %26mdash; appeals to the side of me that shuns the madding crowds. Its sophisticated decor (the 400-plus-piece contemporary art collection guarantees that at least one original work hangs in virtually every room) speaks to the wandering art-gawker in me. And my eco-centered conscience appreciates their green efforts, which have resulted in Sustainable Travel International and The Leading Hotels of the World%26rsquo;s Luxury Eco Certification Standard. (Fresh flowers and perfectly ripened fruit delivered to my room each day is also quite endearing, I must confess.) Gordon Campbell Gray, chairman of CampbellGray Hotels, explains, %26ldquo;The hotel is really about %26lsquo;stealth wealth%26rsquo; rather than the dripping deluxe that is traditionally associated with grand hotels. We wanted to pare back the superfluous trappings of luxury, which now seem dated and unnecessary, and concentrate on what really makes a hotel work %26mdash; that is, highly professional service and great comfort.%26rdquo;

Image: One Aldwych

Skin parched and muscles achy from the journey, I slipped into the 56-foot lap pool downstairs, where there%26rsquo;s%26nbsp;nary an ounce of chlorine to turn this blonde mane green. Then I was off to the on-premises spa for a Natura Biss%26eacute; holistic facial and massage. Although this Spanish beauty line is famed for its anti-aging products (which I adore), Natura Biss%26eacute; created a soothing line of men%26rsquo;s and women%26rsquo;s natural aromatherapy-centered treatments specifically for the spa offerings here.

Image: Laurann Claridge

London%26rsquo;s art scene, however, was the raison d%26rsquo;%26ecirc;tre that I%26rsquo;d jumped a British Airways direct flight, so I made the requisite rounds at The National Gallery in Trafalgar Square and the nearby National Portrait Gallery (one of my favorites). Later I walked across the Waterloo Bridge and strolled along the Thames to the Tate Modern %26mdash; a must-see for anyone who appreciates art of the 20th century and beyond. The Saatchi Gallery is custom-made for anyone who stalks Art Basel and the Whitney Biennial. Formerly a stone%26rsquo;s throw from the Tate Modern, the 25-year-old museum took up royal residence at the Duke of York%26rsquo;s headquarters in Chelsea, just off King%26rsquo;s Road, in 2008. Created by ad man Charles Saatchi, it has always pushed the boundaries, daring to exhibit pieces by conversation-provoking artists such as Damien Hirst and the Chapman Brothers, and providing little-known creatives with a springboard and the status to launch their careers. On view until January 16, 2011, is %26ldquo;Newspeak: British Art Now.%26rdquo; Don%26rsquo;t miss the realistic, life-sized crowd huddled in a corner by LittleWhitehead and Scott King%26rsquo;s Day-Glo silkscreen Pink Cher, with the pop singer dressed in take-no-prisoners military garb.

Image: Paul C%26eacute;zanne%26rsquo;s "The Smoker," circa 1892; credit: The State Hermitage Museum, St Petersburg

A block away from my London home base, I stumbled upon Somerset House, the regal place where London Fashion Week convenes twice a year. The 18th-century building also houses the prestigious Courtauld Gallery, an elegant small museum where some of the leading curators in Britain and beyond train amidst some of the most important European works in G.B. Housed here is a stellar collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works, as well as medieval and Renaissance treasures by notables ranging from Cranach to Brueghel the Elder. Through January 16, 2011, the Courtauld is staging %26ldquo;C%26eacute;zanne%26rsquo;s Card Players%26rdquo; a landmark exhibit of the French Impressionist%26rsquo;s paintings of peasant card players and pipe smokers, which are considered his most powerful pieces. If you miss it here, catch it early next year in New York at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which co-organized the exhibit.

Image: Somerset House, home of Courtauld Gallery

Yearning for a more personalized art romp? Let me introduce you to Sarah Douglas and Mimei Thompson, creators of Exhibit-K, an insider-y service that leads bespoke individual and small-group tours to artist studios, galleries, museums and art spaces off the beaten path. Douglas and Thompson %26mdash; Royal College of Art grads, natch %26mdash; and their cohorts put themselves at your complete artistic disposal. If you collect early-20th-century photographs, they%26rsquo;ll show you every gallery and museum exhibit focused on that specialty. Want to meet the next Lucian Freud? They can arrange access with a phone call.

Image: An exhibit at The Wapping Project

Longing to eat, breathe and mingle with the art vanguard? Venture to the edge of the city to The Wapping Project, the location of London%26rsquo;s first %26mdash; and last %26mdash; hydraulic power plant, which still powered the lifts at Claridge%26rsquo;s, Selfridge%26rsquo;s and the National Gallery when it was shuttered in 1977. The facility was stagnant for years until theater director Jules Wright conceived a vision that was perfect for the derelict building%26rsquo;s decaying water tanks and power-pulling mechanics. Her art displays are extravagant %26mdash; look for one next spring that will flood the space with gallons of water, while a wave machine strokes a current and a rowboat paddles about the perimeter in an exhibition of Yohji Yamamoto%26rsquo;s work (%26ldquo;Yohji Making Waves%26rdquo;). To pay for such projects, Wright also opened Wapping Food, a restaurant with such thoughtful, chef-driven fare as scallop ceviche with avocado and cucumbers and roast Middlewhite pork with Jerusalem artichokes and braised ruby chard. Lest you think the power-plant motif is forgotten here, you%26rsquo;re seated among huge mechanical devices, long retired %26mdash; not to mention mid-century furnishings (Panton chairs, among other design icons) and art by international movers and shakers.

The Courtauld Gallery, Somerset House, Strand; courtauld.ac.uk

Exhibit-K, info@exhibit-k.org; exhibit-k.org

The National Gallery, Trafalgar Square;nationalgallery.org.uk

National Portrait Gallery, St. Martin%26rsquo;s Place; npg.org.uk

One Aldwych, One Aldwych in Covent Garden; onealdwych.com

Saatchi Gallery, Duke of York%26rsquo;s HQ, King%26rsquo;s Road, Chelsea; saatchi-gallery.co.uk

Tate Modern, Bankside; tate.org.uk/modern

The Wapping Project, Wapping Hydraulic Power Station; thewappingproject.com

Festival del Redentore

Mon, 26 Jul 2010 04:25:07 GMT

Being in%26nbsp;Italy%26nbsp;for 3 weeks has been a great experience and a great way to relax. It ended with a 45-minute bang of fireworks over the island of%26nbsp;Venice! The Festa della Redentore is a huge party held every year in July since 1577 to celebrate the end of the plague that killed one third of Venetians. A church was built on the Giudecca Island and every year the Venetians build a %26#8220;boat%26#8221; bridge across the wide canal right up to the Church so that they can light a candle and keep the plague away. I celebrated the Festa with a group of friends that had rented a large, flat transport boat and docked it right under the fireworks%26#8230; we were ducking the ones that hit the water to the beat of the DJ on the boat tied to ours! It was so much fun and definitely the cherry that topped my time here!

%26nbsp;

Ciao!%26nbsp;

Brooke Around the World

Wed, 09 Dec 2009 12:03:36 GMT

My best friend from college grew up spending her summers on Martha%26#8217;s Vineyard with her father, relishing in lobster rolls and clambakes, and watching everyone from celebrities to salty New Englanders merely relax. To honor her father%26#8217;s memory, we rented a house and vacationed on this woodsy, 23-mile stretch of isle each summer that%26#8217;s home to the communities of Edgartown, Chappaquiddick, Katama, West Tisbury, Oak Bluffs, Vineyard Haven, Chilmark, Menemsha, and Aquinnah. We prefer to fly direct to Boston or Providence and hop over to the island via a short, low-flying trip on Cape Air, versus a choppy ride on the ferry boats. Tear this out for your next trip:

Stay
Harbor View Hotel %26amp; Resort: Views of a lighthouse and a wraparound porch (complete with rocking chairs) make for a perfect summer respite. The NYC-based design firm Hart|Howerton is presiding over a six-year hotel renovation, with beachy decor in place and guest cottages to come.131 N. Water St., Edgartown, 508.627.7000; harbor-view.com.
Winnetu Oceanside Resort: Eleven acres house studio rooms, suites and private cottages on Edgartown%26#8217;s South Beach. Tennis, basketball, putting greens and heated pools cater to the more adventurous type. 31 Dunes Road, Edgartown, 508.310.1733; winnetu.com.
Harborside Realty: If you%26#8217;re looking for more privacy, scour Harborside Realty%26#8217;s enormous rental-home database for the perfect dwelling, and remember to seek out private beach access. 256 Edgartown Road, Edgartown, 800.537.3721; harborsiderealtymv.com.

Dine
Atria: Chef Christian Thornton fills his menu with locally grown fare, such as poached island lobster with mascarpone gnocchi and seared foie gras, at one of the finest dining establishments on the island. 137 Main St., Edgartown, 508.627.5850; atriamv.com.
Larsen's Fish Market: The Larsen family has steamed lobsters to order, serving them with oysters, steamers, littlenecks clams, mussels and chowder since 1969. Place a to-go dinner order for sunset-watching at Menemsha beach. 56 Basin Road, Menemsha, 508.645.2680.
The Black Dog Tavern: Famous for its iconic T-shirts, but even more famous for its Sunday brunch %26#8212; I can%26#8217;t leave the island without delving into a Scooby Snack of English muffins, sliced tomatoes, poached eggs and white cheddar. 21 Beach St., Vineyard Haven, 508.693.9223; theblackdog.com.
PJ%26#8217;s Caf%26#233; and Catering: It took us four years to discover PJ%26#8217;s, a hush-hush favorite for gourmet sandwiches. While not the most attractive shop, it%26#8217;s packed with locals and provides a nice break from our daily $50-per-person lunch tab. Order the Scissor. 258 Upper Main St., Edgartown, 508.627.4558.

Shop
Midnight Farm: A mishmash of all things delightful for your home, closet and body. Find everything from bedding from India to vermeil cuffs by Chan Luu and CDs by Carly Simon (she%26#8217;s an owner). 18 Water-Cromwell Lane, Vineyard Haven, 508.693.1997; midnightfarm.net.
Katydid: The best selection of Roberta Roller Rabbit beach tunics, sarongs and blankets on the island. 38 Main St., Edgartown, 508.627.1232.
The Field Gallery: Three galleries of contemporary art plus a sculpture garden, photography and jewelry by local and national artists. 1050 State Road, West Tisbury, 508.693.5595; fieldgallery.com.

Don%26#8217;t Miss
Renting a Bike: Book a hybrid bicycle weeks in advance of your trip %26#8212; you%26#8217;ll be surprised how much of your vacation will be spent behind handlebars. Edgartown Bike Rentals, 1 Main St., Edgartown, 800.627.2763; edgartownbikerentals.com.
Biplane Flights at Katama Airfield: Strap on a leather flight cap and goggles, and climb into daredevil pilot Mike Creato%26#8217;s vintage biplane. Take off on a grass runway, fly over Meg Ryan%26#8217;s estate and happily scream over his aviation tricks %26#8212; think barrel rolls and flips over the ocean %26#8212; if you pay extra for those. We always do. Katama Airfield, Edgartown, 508.627.7677; biplanemv.com.

The sunset at Menemsha Public Beach: I suggest a 6 pm arrival (it gets crowded!). Bring a cooler of champagne and wine, pick up dinner from Larsen%26#8217;s Fish Market and applaud the spectacular sunset as it drops into the ocean from the best point on the island. Don%26#8217;t forget your camera. Brooke Hortenstine

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Brooke Around the World

Wed, 09 Dec 2009 12:10:11 GMT

One of my last wishes before Baby Hortenstine gets here in June was a dining escape to my favorite Creole- and French-rich city that brims with classic restaurants, antique shops and enchanting architecture. Pals Piper Wyatt, Suzanne Droese, Todd Fiscus and I entrenched ourselves at the Ritz-Carlton for a weekend of hitting a mile-long list of my beloved foodie establishments. Although I can%26#8217;t divulge all that was said and seen on our epicurean adventure %26#8212; it is New Orleans, after all %26#8212; I will fill you in on my must-dos in the moody and magical Crescent City. Tear this out for your next trip:

Stay
The Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans, 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331; ritzcarlton.com. Boasts one of the most peaceful courtyards in the city.
Loews New Orleans Hotel, 300 Poydras St., 504.595.3300; loewshotels.com.
Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier St., 504.523.6000; windsorcourthotel.com.
Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 504.522.0570; soniathouse.com.

Dine
Galatoire%26#8217;s, 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021; galatoires.com. Ask to sit at one of waiter Billy%26#8217;s tables during Friday lunch, and start with the Galatoire%26#8217;s Gout%26#233; and the potato souff%26#233;.
Clancy%26#8217;s, 6100 Annunciation St., 504.895.1111. Don%26#8217;t miss the fried oysters and brie.
Herbsaint, 701 Saint Charles Ave., 504.524.4114; herbsaint.com. The gumbo of the day here has yet to disappoint.
For down %26#8216;n dirty po-boys and burgers, venture out of your comfort zone to Crabby Jack%26#8217;s on Jefferson Highway, Mother%26#8217;s on Poydras Street, Port of Call on Esplanade Avenue or Domilise%26#8217;s Po-Boys on Annunciation Street.

Shop
Leontine Linens, 3806 Magazine St., 504.899.7833; leontinelinens.com. The home base of fine linens and even finer monograms from proprietress Jane Scott Hodges.
Nadine Blake, 1036 Royal St., 504.529.4913; nadineblake.com. We stocked up on Blake%26#8217;s paper goods from local gal Alexa Pulitzer and even found a copy of PaperCity%26#8217;s own interiors book, Domestic Art: Curated Interiors, tucked in her bookshelves.
Ann Koerner Antiques, 4021 Magazine St., 504.899.2664; annkoerner.com. A favorite haunt of Fiscus%26#8217; interior-designing partner Rob Dailey%26#8217;s.
Tara Shaw, 1240 Camp St., 504.525.1131; tarashaw.com. French, Italian and Swedish antiques that are to the trade only.

Do
%26#8226; Spend the afternoon on the front porch of The Columns Hotel in the upper Garden District drinking Sazeracs.
%26#8226; Visit contemporary art galleries such as S%26#248;ren Christensen and Heriad-Cimino Gallery, lining Julia Street in the Arts/Warehouse District.
%26#8226; Sip on a Pimm%26#8217;s Cup at Napoleon House, established in 1797 in the French Quarter.
%26#8226; Wander through the Ogden Museum of Southern Art to see large-scale pieces by Texas%26#8217; David Bates.

%26#8226; Drop in on all the antique and design shops you can handle on Magazine Street in Uptown.

%26#160;