A Burgundy from two brothers can make a for a great pairing.
Coming across a wine you’ve never tasted before is a good thing, and when it’s something you like, that good experience becomes a great one. I taste wines every day, and while many of them had been before me previously (earlier vintages), there are, of course, plenty of bottles out there I’ve not tasted — so much to look forward to.
This week, for example, I was served a 2014 Burgundy from Domaine Michel Sarrazin et Fils, from the Maranges region. It’s a Pinot Noir, and it’s a great value (around $35 retail).
The domaine is run by Guy and Jean-Yves Sarrazin, the sons of Michel, and though they inherited their father’s vineyards and winery, they have certainly blazed their own trail since taking over the domaine, in the mid-1990s. The brothers have about 35 hectares across several appellations, including Givry, Mercurey, and Maranges, and practice “lutte raisonée” principles, so (among other things) shun pesticides and herbicides.
I love this wine; its dark notes — clove, pepper, cinnamon — provide solidity, and it offers rose and a touch of raspberry and lively minerality. I drank it with a cannelloni (a course on the Houston Restaurant Weeks menu at Tony’s called CANNELLONNI ‘65, which includes hen, spinach, homemade ricotta, and besciamella), and it was an inspired pairing. The bottle is $85 on the menu.
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