What We’re Eating Now:* A Gem of a Pasta Plate at Giacomo’s

I have eaten a lot of pasta in restaurants all over the globe, and tortelli di bietola at Giacomo’s Cibo e Vino stands up to the best of them. Paper-thin half-moon ravioli filled with swiss chard, ricotta and goat cheese nestles in a rich sage and butter sauce. It is perfection, simplicity at its best. And the pasta is made in-house. Giacomo’s, helmed by owner and chef Lynette Hawkins, is one of my favorite restaurants in Houston, and I am there at least once a week. So good is this tortelli that I must force myself from time to time to order other items on the menu. My attempts to do so often fail — a failure I never regret.