Though it was a balmy spring day, Oscar de la Renta‘s fall 2017 fashion parade that hit the catwalk during the second annual Bayou Bend luncheon had more than a few fashionable femmes checking off their selections.

Sophisticated day wear and dreamy ball gowns (along with a few nutty fur skirts) ruled with looks that easily won the approval of the Houston audience.

Women’s Wear Daily on the other hand was not quite so generous with is appraisal of the collection by Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, the newly anointed creative directors. “The designers took multiple tropes of traditional ladylike dressing and put them out there, as if to see what might stick. Some referenced Oscar’s body of work, but not all. Cigarette pants aspired to raciness. Sportif outerwear (a hot pink cocoon coat over leggings) looked Eighties madame, and reed-thin pantsuits, chichi glam. Some of the evening wear was pretty and channeled Oscar with clarity, if not a reconsidered perspective.”

As the Oscar de la Renta team would counter, the design duo brings “a youthful energy and cool confidence to the brand while honoring Oscar’s romantic artistry and inimitable legacy.”

A few of our personal faves: the over-sized gold gardenia brooch; the multi-trellis embroidery on gowns, cocktail dresses and evening coats; and the profusion of red poppies throughout the collection.

We’ll let you decide with the 50-plus looks from the show.

(The show and luncheon were compliments of The Galleria and Simon Property Group. Saks Fifth Avenue provided the immediate gratification with a trunk show on site.)