Houston’s Own New Version of a Vintage Supper Club — Leo’s River Oaks Takes Dinner Next to the Movies to Grand Heights

The mighty lion Leo — the fiery and proud ruler of the Zodiac — reigns supreme in the celestial jungle. For Omar Khan, founder of Culinary Khancepts, the new Leo’s River Oaks restaurant is a tribute to his wife and daughter, both born under this bold sign. This new Houston spot occupies a two-story, 5,000-square-foot space next to the newly revived River Oaks Theatre, which Khan and his team also helped restore (Culinary Khancepts owns Star Cinema). Leo’s will also provide anything but the usual movie theater food for cinema diners.

This is anything but your typical dinner and movie combo — and that becomes apparent as soon as you walk into this new restaurant in the River Oaks Shopping Center.

Alongside his wife, Khan worked with Laura Loreman Interior Designer to come up with interiors for Leo’s River Oaks that evoke the elegance of vintage supper clubs, where guests dress up and savor sophisticated food. One enters through the bar on the left to find shallow Chesterfield sofas beneath the windows and plush emerald velvet-upholstered bar stools. A misty, moody abstract mural adds to the allure.

On the right, the dining room, cloaked floor-to-ceiling in ebony wood paneling, awaits with plush dining chairs that cozily envelop diners. Come dinnertime, a pianist plays softly on the baby grand tucked in the corner.

Nods to Leo are everywhere, from gilded lion head sconces to alcoves papered with images of the roaring king of the jungle.

Signature cocktails ($16) and classic drinks are artfully crafted. The Strawberry Fields tincture blends strawberry lemongrass-infused vodka with yuzu juice and fresh ginger syrup. In addition, the Lavender Haze is a gin and cassis sour enriched with cream and egg-white foam.

There are four clever riffs on old fashioneds. One is the Foam Fashion, made with Sazerac rye, turbo syrup, bitters and orange foam ($16). Another is the whiskey-less Danny Ocean, which combines añejo tequila from the actor’s own brand ($25). The wine list features bold bottles from California and Europe’s renowned wine regions.

A Leo’s Menu Fit for Royalty

In the kitchen, executive chef Tim Reading masterfully reinvents beloved classics with refined, modern twists. Start with the crudo menu, where Ora King salmon pairs with pickled pineapple and puffed rice ($12). The bluefin tuna drizzled with tamari ginger vinaigrette stands out as a must-try ($16).

For a truly show-stopping beginning, try the seafood tower ($150 to $275). Alternatively, enjoy a dozen oysters — actually 14, since one and four are lucky for Leos — paired with four different sauces ($39).

Prime wet-aged steaks take center stage on the menu, with cuts ranging from $46 to $110. The 30-day dry-aged 20-ounce bone-in ribeye is a standout at $130) Add flair with toppings like house-made steak sauce, chimichurri, truffle butter or lump crab (for $5 to $30).

Generous sides include Leo’s Shepherd’s Pie ($24) and Chef Reading’s reimagined potato dauphinoise. The dauphinoise features 100 paper-thin layers of Idaho potatoes, seasoned, baked and compressed overnight. The dish is then cut into small squares, fried to crisp and served with a rich cream dip infused with Gruyère and Parmesan ($18).

The entrées are just as enticing, including bouillabaisse ($65), lobster thermidor ($80) and roasted half chicken with cognac lemon sauce ($40). Also on the menu is a seasonal house-made truffle agnolotti ($42). The chef fills tender pasta envelopes with a rich blend of ricotta, cremini and black truffle duxelles.

Pastry chef Eunice Grassa’s made-to-order souffles arrive with a dusting of confectioner’s sugar and a perfect saucy wiggle beneath. The chocolate souffle combines intense cocoa flavor with a velvety chocolate sauce and cardamon ice cream ($24). In comparison, the fragrant orange-ginger soufflé pairs with vanilla-orange anglaise and ginger ice cream ($24). Finally, Grassa’s carrot cake gets a fresh twist with parsnip and is then topped with a balanced brown-butter cream-cheese icing ($16).

Leo’s River Oaks is located in the River Oaks Shopping Center at 2009 West Gray Street. It is open Mondays through Thursdays from 3 pm to 10 pm, Fridays from 3 pm to 11 pm, Saturdays from 4 pm to 11 pm and Sundays from 4 pm to 9 pm. For more information, go here.