The Ultimate 2024 Holiday Wine Guide — Reds, Whites and Bubbly Picks That Make a Statement, Not a Suggestion

The holiday season is hectic enough — why complicate your life with more stress? You handle the reservations, gifts, flights, lodging and seating charts for your holiday dinners. Leave the wines to me with this curated holiday wine guide. What follows is a subjectively assembled roster of wines I’ve tasted, paired with foods, and shared with friends during tasting sessions and meals. Some selections may be more difficult to find than others, but the Internet is rich with sources, so happy hunting.

One request: Whenever possible, please purchase your wines directly from the producer or winery. Many producers, especially the smaller ones, rely on this business. If that’s inconvenient, your local independent wine merchant is the next best option.

Bring on the Bubbles

Bubbles should begin any gathering, and I’ve selected a number of bottles to satisfy any occasion. Let’s start with a vintage Champagne: the 2012 Cuvée Louis Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs. It’s a delicious marvel. It’s named for Louis Salmon, the brother of Elisabeth Salmon. Elisabeth married Nicolas François Billecart, and together they founded Maison Billecart-Salmon in 1818. Louis, passionate about wine, was heavily involved in making Champagne for this storied house. Today it is owned and operated by Mathieu Roland-Billecart, the seventh generation of the family.

The 2012 Louis Salmon Cuvée is elegant, delicate yet bold and abundantly self-assured. Soft gold in color, the fruit (100 percent chardonnay) comes from the grand crus of the Côte des Blancs: 60 percent Mesnil-sur-Oger, 23 percent Cramant, 11 percent Chouilly and 6 percent Oiry. Citrus and pear aromas deftly shine, and this wine offers the palate sublime citrus, pineapple and baked apple, along with a chalky minerality that rewards savoring.

Aged for more than 10 years on the lees with a dosage of 3.9 percent, this Champagne’s patient and demanding production process is reflected in every sip. The meticulous Billecart-Salmon approach shines through, which you and your guests will find enthralling. Expect to pay around $200.

As for pairings, I admire that the Champagne house recommends “a casserole of whole calf sweetbread from Corrèze,” though procuring that dish on this side of the pond may require some effort. However, oysters are always the right answer, and caviar on homemade potato chips is never wrong.

New Mexico, Here We Come

Our second sparkling selection in the holiday wine guide takes us to the Land of Enchantment. This methode champenoise bottling from Vara Winery & Distillery, based in Albuquerque, is a steal at $27. It’s an ideal companion for oysters on the half shell or a smoked salmon canapé — both excellent for kicking off a dinner party.

It’s 72 percent Chenin Blanc, 18 percent Listán Prieto and 10 percent pinot meunier, with jasmine and lemon notes that gently caress the nose. On the palate, apple and hazelnut are prominent, with almond charmingly venturing forth on a second tasting. Fine bubbles that persist lend this wine an undeniable sensuality, making it a festive addition to any gathering.

A Sweet Surprise

I recently sampled the 2023 Moscato d’Asti DOCG from Vignaioli di Santo Stefano. If you’re looking for a dessert wine that surprises your guests — no sauternes, you say?  – then this $24 bottle is for you. Harvested by hand, it offers remarkable sweetness balanced by superb acidity. Serve it very cold.

Oregon’s Abbey Road

Now let’s go to Oregon for a festive rosé sparkling from Abbey Road Farm. Made from 100 percent Pinot Meunier, the vibrant color of this wine makes me smile. Winemaker Blair Trathen has crafted a lively and easy-to-drink bottle, perfect for those who enjoy Lambrusco. At $34, expect red fruit flavors with effervescence and a distinct, lasting finish. Pair it with a mushroom and cheese tart.

Abbey Road also makes a fine carbonic Gamay Noir, so look for that one as well.

Italy’s Best Kept Secret

Next up in our holiday wine guide, we explore Garganega, a grape you might not think of immediately, despite it being Italy’s sixth-most widely grown. It consistently offers impressive value, thanks to its excellent price-to-quality ratio.

The 2022 PassioneSentimento Bianco Veneto IGT from Pasqua is priced at $18. For that price, get a case and serve it with exuberant abandon this holiday season. Bright citrus and lemongrass aromas lead to tart apple on the palate. It’s refreshing to drink on its own, but I paired it with a goat cheese galette and loved the result.

Chardonnay, a Timeless Classic

Chardonnay is a tried-and-true choice, and there are countless reasons this grape holds such a beloved place in the wine world. I’ll leave the endless butter/oak/unoaked debate for another day, but I do find less oaky wines pair better with holiday fare.

One bottle I sampled recently now takes its place on my Chardonnays to Drink Often list. Te Mata Estate, known for its acclaimed Coleraine, produces one of the best Chardonnays I’ve had this year. From Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, it’s dry, plush and earthy. Golden white in the glass, a whiff offers lemony notes and subtle oak, while the palate is treated to white flower and pineapple. A firm, confident finish rounds it out.

At $24, I’ve yet to find a chardonnay I like more. Pair it with a butternut squash tart for a standout combination.

Napa Elegance

Napa is our next stop, where Chateau Montelena‘s 2017 Chardonnay takes center stage. I sampled both the 2017 and the 2022 vintages recently, and while both are singing, I selected the 2017 for this year’s list for reasons that are completely subjective. (By all means, grab the 2022 as well and be happy — you won’t go wrong with either of these.) The 2017 is bursting with citrus peel, delicate peach and playful aromatics of white flower aromas. Try it with your poultry or fowl, or perhaps a roasted sea bass. Priced at around $75, you may even find it for less on some reputable sites.

Sicilian Salinity

Insolia is a grape I find myself drinking more and more. It has a natural affinity for seafood, and seafood seems to return the favor. I like to shell oysters, run the empty shells in a dishwasher cycle and make Chinois curried oysters with cucumber sauce and salmon roe. It’s a recipe I came across a decade or so ago and first made at a wedding I catered on Nantucket for my friends Constance and Alison. Since then, I’ve served it a few times. The 2022 “Carinda” from Assuli Baglio, priced around $19, will pair beautifully with it. This Sicilian shows white flowers on the nose — orange and jasmine — and a beautiful salinity that lingers for miles.

Although this is a holiday wine guide, I’m including the recipe for the oyster dish, which you should cook. It’s based on a Wolfgang Puck creation first served at Chinois in Los Angeles. If you make it, drop me a line and let me know how you liked it.

Chinois Curried Oysters with Cucumber Sauce and Salmon Roe
From Comfort Me With Apples by Ruth Reichl

“This appetizer from Chinois’s first menu is one I’ve always loved,” Reichl writes. “I’ve adapted the recipe from the one Wolfgang distributed at the American Institute of Wine and Food’s Cutting Edge of L.A. Cuisine dinner in 1985. The cucumber sauce is very easy and endlessly versatile; I sometimes use it as a vegetable dip.”

For the cucumber sauce:

1/4 of a seedless cucumber, chopped

1/4 cup rice wine vinegar, unseasoned

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil

2 tablespoons peanut oil

For the curried oysters:

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

pinch of salt

16 oysters, shucked, shells reserved

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

6 tablespoons salmon roe

Accompaniment: lemon wedges

Instructions:

Cucumber sauce: In a blender, purée the cucumber with the vinegar and salt and pepper until very smooth. With the motor running, add the two oils in a slow stream and blend until emulsified.

Curried oysters: Whisk together the curry powder, flour, and salt in a shallow bowl. Dredge the oysters in the curry mixture one at a time, shaking off the excess flour and transfer them to a plate. Heat the oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet until hot but not smoking. Pan-fry the oysters in batches, turning them once, until slightly crisp on the outside, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the fried oysters to paper towels to drain. Spoon a scant tablespoon of the cucumber sauce into each of the 16 oyster shells and top with a fried oyster. Top each oyster with 1 teaspoon of salmon roe.

Red Wines to Pair with Holiday Feasts

Looking for a red that pairs beautifully with a rack of lamb or Bill Blass’ meatloaf? The 2023 G d’Estournel from Cos d’Estournel is a Bourdeaux blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petit verdot. Its clay soils from the northern Médoc come through with a fascinating melange of eucalyptus, violet, rosemary and blueberry. Peppery notes sustain through a relaxed finish. At $39, it’s a great value, although you can find earlier vintages at a lower price point, for even less — like $23.99 at Zachys.

Your Bold Companion for Holiday Meals

Now it’s Chianti’s turn, and I’m recommending these two bottles with gusto. We have the 2021 Chianti Classico DOCG from Tenuta Perano ($25) and the 2020 Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG ($19.99) from Castello Nipozzano.

Here’s what you do with these Italian reds: cook up a large, cozy dish of lasagna with béchamel and, if you’re lucky enough to find it, wild boar (although lamb or beef work just as well). It’ll be a chilly evening — sometime between now and the year’s end — so you might even want to make the lasagna the day before. Invite some friends over for dinner, open these bottles and let the evening unfold.

The Perano brings a rich bouquet of berries and forest floor, finishing with confidence, while the Nipozzano showcases dark cherry, wild mushroom and a crisp minerality. Both will complement the lasagna perfectly, and a crusty baguette and simple salad will round out the meal. Both selections are from the Frescobaldi family, which has been making wines for over 700 years.

Perfect Holiday Gift Sets

I love giving wine as a holiday gift. While any of the selections I’ve mentioned are thoughtful presents, J. Lohr has put together a few collections that are ideal for such occasions.

One I sampled recently is a standout, highlighting Paso Robles beautifully. It includes the 2021 Proprietary Red Wine, 2021 Tower Road Petite Sirah and the Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon. For $117, you get three bottles that I would happily drink with a meal starring a bone-in ribeye, grilled medium-rare and served with creamed spinach topped with toasted breadcrumbs. The blend melds Cabernet Sauvignon with Petite Sirah, and the 100 percent Petite Sirah showcases the grape’s beauty in an outstanding way. Robust tannins are balanced with rich fruit.

You’ll want to squirrel away your own bottle for a few years, too, because it will age with grace. The Hilltop’s oakiness might be off-putting to some, but winemaker Brenden Wood has a deft touch, so don’t hesitate to give it a try if you like cabernet sauvignon.

A True Treasure in Barolo

Barolo is special. Nebbiolo is one of my favorite grapes, and the 2019 Ceretto Barolo DOCG showcases everything I adore about it. This wine offers the rose, tar and mushroom notes that Nebbiolo lovers live for — each sip taking you deeper into the magic of this grape. Sourced from 30- to 35-year-old vines across various Barolo DOCG sites, this $75 beauty is aged for three years in oak casks and at least a year in the bottle, giving it a refined complexity. Serve this wine with your favorite grilled steak or a decadent truffle pasta, and you’re in for an unforgettable pairing.

And that’s a wrap on The 2024 Holiday Wine Guide. I hope you find something that speaks to you. Open it with the people who matter, pour it with pride and remember: wine is alive, so treat it with care.

For more wine, travel and other stories from James Brock, check out Mise en Place.