A Must-Try Brunch Spot: This Houston Restaurant Does It Right — Secret Special Included

When I lived in Dubai, brunch was a Friday affair; lots of Champagne and wine, and lavish spreads of sushi, charcuterie, caviar, and gold-flecked cappuccinos. (Yes, there were also omelettes and waffles, but those pedestrian things were often shunned by the fabulous people.) They began around noon, and often lasted until sunset. I experienced my fair share of these bacchanals, and then grew tired of them.

After leaving Dubai — in 2012 — I did not go to brunch again until 2014. It was a good and needed pause.

I went to brunch yesterday; it was a low-key affair compared to the Dubai feasts, but it was enjoyable and relaxing, and the food was good, and that’s what brunch is all about. Triniti was the place, and if you’ve never been to brunch there, go. Next weekend would be perfect.

You can start with a Bloody Mary or a glass of prosecco (I opted for the former; it was piquant, and the tomato juice was fresh.) A wide selection of beers — including a Pinkus hefeweizen, one of my favorites — and wines is also available. The restaurant has won accolades for its design, and the large windows allow you to bask in warm sunlight; it is a pleasant and comfortable spot. (I have had issues with Triniti in the past, the relatively long-ago past, but a fairly recent lunch there and this brunch experience demonstrate that times have changed for the better.)

My dining companion and I started with grits, and they were creamy and seasoned well, bacon and cheese on top. I recommend them. Next, we shared smoked salmon. It’s mixed with dill aioli, diced cucumber, and pickled red onion, and served on cranberry walnut toast. Light and full of flavor, it was a perfect middle dish.

For the main courses, mademoiselle ordered the Madame: an English muffin, papillon brebis, piquillo, prosciutto, egg, tomato salad. Think of it as a rich and complex muffin sandwich. The cheese and piquillo were especially welcome. I ordered the off-menu special, mainly because I love chorizo. It was a beautiful dish, served in a round pan. Roasted (though still soft) tomatoes, crumbled chorizo, potatoes, and tomato sauce, ending with two eggs (the eggs were a tad overcooked to me, but that is a minor note). The grilled bread accompanying this Spanish-inspired creation was perfect as a vehicle for the sauce. Final thought: chopped parsley would seem right for this dish.

Desserts were offered, and declined, but we did enjoy a house-made doughnut earlier during the meal. Soft, not overly sweet, slight vanilla flavor. Cinnamon rolls and a sundae round out the list.

If a restaurant offers espresso, attention should be paid to the quality of the coffee drink. I like to close my meal with a single, and too often am served tepid and bitter espresso. Triniti’s does not suffer from those defects. Hot, rich, good crema. Brunch here is a great way to spend a few hours.