Inside a Majestic Escape to Hualalai, a Four Seasons Resort, on Hawaii’s Big Island

I budgeted an extra 30 minutes between the time I finished getting dressed and my dinner reservation at ‘ULU so that I could walk along the beach and enjoy the otherworldly majesty of Hawaii during golden hour. Unsurprisingly, I wasn’t the only guest at Hualalai, a Four Seasons Resort on The Big Island, with this same idea.

It was a picture-perfect evening (but aren’t they all in Hawaii?). Concurrently, a photographer shot images of a family frolicking in the surf. Mom and Dad walked hand in hand, with the colors of the sunset sublimely swirling together in the background. Their young son splashed in the water. Their daughter took a spin atop dad’s shoulders, as he peered up at her lovingly. One might assume this was a Christmas card in the making. What I witnessed, though, was a “lifestyle” photoshoot orchestrated by the marketing department for their use on the website and in promotional campaigns to capture what your family vacation to Hualalai would look like.

Soon, I expect to see these very images pop up on my Instagram. Here’s what I want to tell you — yes, it looked exactly like that in real life, too. I don’t want to overuse the word “magical,” but it’s hard to avoid it when writing about Hawaii.

Situated on a half-mile of beach on the northwest Kona Coast of the Big Island, Hualalai remains, year after year, one of Four Seasons’ most popular resorts on the planet. Located on the site of a former thriving fishing village, Hualalai is big and bustling, with 249 rooms, including 53 suites. The resort offers everything you could possibly want from your Hawaiian escape.

A Pool For Every Vacationer

Low-rise bungalows in mid-20th-century Hawaiian style house the majority of the guest rooms, which are well-appointed and luxurious. (Is there a better sleep than resting your pretty little head atop a Four Seasons pillow? How long until I buy some for my own home?) To luxuriate underneath the healing sun, guests choose between eight (!) pools at Hualalai. A family-friendly pool with oversized daybeds (Seashell Pool). A sand-bottomed children’s wading pool (Keiki Pool). An adult-only, infinity-edge pool with a swim-up bar (Palm Grove Pool). A lap pool with four lanes. If there’s a lid for every pot, there’s a pool for every vacationer at Hualalai.

I camped out at Beach Tree Pool, located closest to my room. Known as the “Quiet Pool,” Beach Tree Pool is framed by a wooden deck and is located steps from the ocean. Give me a cabana, strong WiFi, and poolside food and beverage service, and I can conquer the world. Many of my fellow workhorses adopted a similar mentality. Not all work days are created equal, after all.

A 1.8-million-gallon lava rock aquarium, King’s Pond, houses 4,000 tropical fish and a spotted eagle ray. I visited the Kumu Kai Marine Center at King’s Pond, where I fed the fish alongside a Hualalai marine naturalist. In addition, I got to meet Kainalu, the resort’s 30-year-old eagle ray. (I was impressed by his jaw strength, and he shucked his own oysters.) Every day, guests have the opportunity to participate in daily feedings and hands-on “touch tank” experiences.

Showcasing The Ocean’s Bounty

In a “we come to this place for magic” kind of way, fine dining is an important part of the luxury-vacation-in-Hawaii experience. Hualalai absolutely delivers on this front. There are lots of fine dining options on the property, but two in particular stand out.

Perched just beyond the surf and in THE prime sunset viewing location, ‘ULU sources 75 percent of its kitchen’s ingredients from more than 160 local farms on the island. The restaurant combines Hawaiian flavors with pan-Asian techniques. They roast, flame grill, and wok fire, resulting in some of the best seafood and sushi in all of Hawaii. ‘ULU showcases the ocean’s bounty, serving up everything from table-side poke to uni toast to broiled whole Kona lobster with frites. My “girl dinner” at ‘ULU began with a smoked pork belly bao bun, followed by a miso broiled king crab leg (with miso butter and charred lemon, omg) and Brussels sprouts. (I didn’t get to try the Ahi Tuna “Wellington”— with Ali’i Mushrooms, Luau Leaf, and Foie Gras Bordelaise— and I have a lot of regrets about that.) When it came time to order dessert, I felt no need to reinvent the wheel; I chose the classic chocolate soufflé. (A Hualalai staple, the chocolate soufflé was briefly taken off the menu in favor of something more inventive, and all hell broke loose!)

My favorite dining experience of the trip, though, came at NOIO, where I booked a seat at their spectacular omakase. Hualalai calls their intimate, 12-seat omakase counter “the crown jewel of NOIO.” A bold claim that they backed up. On Wednesday through Sunday, NOIO offers two seatings at the counter where they take 24 lucky palates on a decadent journey from Chef Nuri Piccio that showcases the best and brightest culinary talent that Hualalai has to offer. Naturally, the foodies flock to it, and I loved getting to know my other voyagers (most of whom were diehard Four Seasons loyalists!) for the six-course eating marathon. It should be noted that my first course included five separate dishes, so don’t be fooled by the label “six courses.” It felt like 18! NOIO’s omakase was an extravagant, detail-oriented, intimate dining experience that stood out on an already extraordinary trip.

You Had Me at “Spa Hale”

AS IF I’d visit a Four Seasons Resort and not make a pilgrimage to the spa! I won’t bury the lede — it’s a good one. Obviously! First of all, the spa features 18 (!) private outdoor treatment rooms, including spa hales with soaking tubs and outdoor showers. As with all Four Seasons (they master “sense of place”), the menu of offerings features inventive treatments that feel rooted in Hawaii, from the ingredients to the scents.

I opted for the 80-minute “Island Glow” body treatment. The therapist began by applying warm oil, followed by an ‘Iliahi (sandalwood) island glow scrub that she massaged into my skin. Then, as I was somewhere between asleep and awake, she wrapped me in a cocoon of fresh linen before massaging my scalp and feet. After she removed the linen, I was rinsed with warm water before receiving a full-body moisturizer. Not to sound dramatic, but it was transcendent. Afterwards, I enjoyed the Waiea Garden (“Water of Life”), which features a stream lined with rocks from around the island. What can I say? I’m a girl who likes her *amenities.*

Consider your spring break planning research concluded. Hualalai awaits. Mahalo!