Culture / Restaurants

Houston Group’s New Restaurant is a Little Charmer With Seafood and New York Pizza

Give Me Liberty!

BY // 04.05.16
photography Jenny Antill Clifton

The small empire that is F.E.E.D. TX has a new child, and they have named it Little Liberty. Its siblings are Liberty Kitchen in Austin and Houston’s Liberty Kitchen & Oyster Bar and Liberty Kitchen & Oysterette, and the newest family member has already come into its own.

For starters, it’s open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with comprehensive and diverse menus for each meal. There’s house-made Greek yogurt (available throughout the day) with additions such as honey, almonds and Mexican cinnamon, or pineapple-ginger marmalade with sea salt ($4); market fish grilled over hickory charcoal (a recent evening featured redfish and tuna; $25-$28); and a compose-your-own Hawaiian poke selection — choose your fish, such as tuna or salmon, and add accouterments including mango, jalapeño, scallions, rice, and kale (from $12). All this, on top of the Liberty clan’s fresh oysters, lobster and well-priced wine list, plus New York-style pizzas ($12 and $13).

This is a cheerful place, reminiscent of a casual upscale diner one might find in a town by the sea. Bleached wood floors and white subway tiles show that it’s a Liberty Kitchen offspring. It occupies a Rice Village space formerly home to Ruggles Café & Bakery and, if my dinner experience is any indicator, has already been discovered by families, 20-somethings on dates, older couples and singles, who can sit at the comfortable bar and enjoy a Diablo Blanco — tequila infused with habanero, Fresno, jalapeño chiles, cucumber, Cointreau and lime, served in a glass rimmed with a cayenne/sugar/salt mixture ($11), or a glass of Soter “Planet Oregon” Pinot Noir ($13).

Little Liberty is open seven days a week and is already expecting new siblings: F.E.E.D. will open Liberty Kitchen Garden Oaks later this spring and another concept in the summer in the Treehouse building, located at 936 Bunker Hill. Little Liberty, 2365A Rice Blvd., 713.807.7224

Home, chic home.

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