Houston’s Best Restaurant Serves Up an Inventively Eye-Opening Dessert
A Spectacle Fit for New York
By James Brock //
There are many reasons to dine at Tony’s. Foremost among the reasons is that it is, in my opinion, the best restaurant in Houston: Food prepared with exacting attention to detail, perfect service, diverse wine list, with one of the best restaurateurs in the nation at its helm. Walking into the large space on Richmond Avenue is among my favorite things to do in Houston. Sitting in the restaurant’s main dining room or perched on a stool at the bar, I experience something closer to gustatory perfection than I’ve found anywhere else in this region.
I dine out often in this city, and Tony’s is one of the few “fine-dining” restaurants here — perhaps the only one — that would be at home in the New York haute cuisine universe. If the entire place – decor, staff, wine list, menu – were to magically appear at the corner of 77th and 3rd tomorrow, it would quickly become a favorite, among critics and diners alike.
During a recent lunch, another reason to love Tony’s landed on my table, a dessert served in an egg cup. It’s called Uovo Dolce Bianco, and it is something you must try. An egg shell is relieved of its contents, and into it goes an egg cream mixture that includes shaved black truffle and white chocolate, plus graham cracker crumbs, white-pepper caramel, and currant.
Once it is before you, a log comprised of white chocolate and black truffle is microplaned over the creation. Your guests will delight in the spectacle of the truffle snow wafting over the egg, and your yearning will be sated.
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