The Kentucky Bourbon Trail Holds Plenty of History and A Few Surprises — Where to Drink, Dine, and Stay

The growth of the Bourbon industry is amazing to witness. Brown bars are popping up in all directions, and the Bourbon section of your local liquor store is adding shelves to hold all of those enticing new arrivals. This truly American spirit is on a roll, and distilleries are rolling barrels into rick houses around the clock ― to begin their long hibernation ― ensuring supply keeps up with demand. So, if a tour of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail is a bucket list travel itinerary, why wait?

PaperCity just returned from a tour of Louisville, Kentucky, and the pastoral village of nearby Bardstown ― taking in the sights, touring the distilleries, and sipping some top-notch Bourbons along the way. There are 46 distilleries that are official stops on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, but planning a trip can be daunting ― making their informative website an important first stop.

We suggest planning your trip and booking your tours and tastings well in advance, as they routinely sell out months ahead of time. And, of course, booking a driver is a smart move. Ours was Cutlass Royal Limos & Transportation. The family-owned operation was friendly and informative (like having a personal tour guide) along for the ride. They made the trip seamless.

Louisville and Bourbon Row

You’ll find several distilleries located in downtown Louisville. Its Main Street is a walkable thoroughfare leading to some of the best tours and tasting rooms on the Trail. Take in the striking pre-Civil War architecture and facades that are simply unmatched in most urban areas. Preserved like a time capsule.

Michter’s at Fort Nelson is one of the best restorations you’ll see. When they took over the property the brick walls were bowing out, but the distillery today reveals a thoroughly modern operation. Favorite sips included Michter’s single barrel Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey and their Original Sour Mash Whiskey. While you’re here, be sure to schedule a time slot at The Bar at Fort Nelson, featuring cocktails curated by James Beard Award-winning author and famed cocktail historian David Wondrich ― ensuring a proper cocktail that is not to be missed.

Evan Williams Bourbon Experience gives one of the best historical overviews of the rich history of Bourbon in Louisville. Evan Williams was the first licensed distiller in Kentucky, and its distillery was the first one to reopen on Whiskey Row after the end of Prohibition. More on that later. Favorite sips from Evan Williams Bourbon Experience included the white label bottled-in-bond and Square 6 Wheated Bourbon. This artisanal distillery includes its Prohibition-themed speakeasy.

Angel’s Envy is on the newer side and known for finishing their bourbon in unique barrels ― imparting flavors from around the world. Their Kentucky Straight Bourbon is finished in Port Wine barrels imported from Portugal. After they are utilized by Angel’s Envy the same barrels travel to Scotland for yet another distiller’s use. Their Rye Whiskey is finished in rum casks. And, Angel’s Envy is just beginning to experiment ― they now have a bourbon that is finished in Japanese Mizunara oak casks as well.

Where to Stay

21c Museum Hotel is not just an artsy hotel it comes complete with its own in-house museum, featuring vast rotating collections. It’s a nice amenity to peruse during a bit of downtime while enjoying the Bourbon Trail. They are known for their mascot ― a recycled plastic penguin, that is colored red in the flag’s Louisville outpost. You’ll find the playful penguin popping up everywhere.

Where to Dine

A hidden gem, known as the Wild Swann is located on the basement level of The Grady Hotel. It’s open throughout the day and features a curated and eclectic menu in a swanky, speakeasy space, that was home to Swann-Abram Hat Company, which manufactured derby hats during the roaring twenties. Another all-day eatery is attached to Hotel 21c ― the equally wild, Proof On Main with a menu of creative cocktails and imaginative meals, set inside a space that has to be seen to be believed.

Bardstown Rising

While the Kentucky Bourbon Trail sprawls in many directions, with enticing distilleries throughout the region, you can’t see them all on one trip. We chose to beat a path to quaint Bardstown on this first trip. It’s about a 45-minute drive from Louisville. The village is quintessentially Kentucky, with shops and eateries to explore, including the Old Talbott Tavern, which was built in 1779 and has been called the oldest western stagecoach stop in America. Bardstown is banking on Bourbon, with new resorts already in the works.

James B. Beam Distilling Company is a great stop enroute to Bardstown. Located in Clermont, Kentucky, its Bourbon has been crafted by eight generations of the Beam family, dating back to 1795. Plus, James B. Beam produces nearly half of the world’s Bourbon. We took a rickhouse tour, tasting cask-strength Bourbon, right from the barrel. The company produces some of your favorites, from Booker’s and Basil Hayden to Knob Creek. The beautifully landscaped campus is littered with rickhouses filled to the brim, aging peacefully.

Lux Row Distillers were up and coming when the Bourbon boom got underway, so the Lux family went all-in, building a modern distillery on a 90-acre pastoral farm. Now they produce five distinct brands including Blood Oath, Ezra Brooks, and Daviess County. After our tour and tasting, my favorite was Daviess County Toasted Barrel Finished Bourbon.

Bardstown Bourbon Company has a lovely tasting room located along Main Street in Louisville that is a must-see. But, the distilling operation is located in Bardstown, and its scale is impressive. Since a start-up won’t see a profit for years as its first barrels age, Bardstown Bourbon Company filled that gap by producing Bourbon for other brands ― a unique model that still keeps the facility humming around the clock. Another novel spin is the company’s dedication to transparency. That’s why you’ll find the mash bill (recipe) printed on each bottle they produce. Their origin series is excellent including its Kentucky Straight Rye and its Bottled-in-Bond labels.

Heaven Hill is another one of the “big guys” ― founded in 1935 by the Shapira family. They are now the fourth largest supplier of distilled spirits in the country ― Evan Williams, Elijah Craig, and Larceny, just to name a few. Instead of a traditional tour, we enjoyed a tasting that paired savory, salty, and sweet nibbles with some of their best pours. Yes, bourbon can be paired much like fine wine.

Log Still is a quick trip from Bardstown, located in picturesque Gethsemane, Kentucky. The distillery produces Monk’s Road Bourbon, named for the monks at nearby Gethsemane Monastery. The distillery is also an event venue, that hosts concerts. Their Wheated Bourbon produces a hint of cherry and cinnamon.

Where to Stay

The quirky and casual Bardstown Motor Lodge boasts a poolside sanctuary during warmer months and a central courtyard filled with fire pits for cooler weather. It’s a refurbished motor lodge with friendly staff, and it’s a great place to meet new friends by a warm fire before bed.

Where to Dine

Toogie’s Table, located just beside the Motor Lodge, is a must. Enjoy fried green tomatoes, fried chicken, or pan-seared cod and classy cocktails. Rickhouse Restaurant overlooks what is now a central park for Bardstown, set inside a building with a lot of history ― a former university, Civil War hospital, and orphanage. On the menu is a grilled Ceasar and a collection of splurge-worthy steaks.

The Bumpy Road That Led To The Bourbon Boom

Bourbon has a long history dating back to just after the birth of America. Some of the oldest distilleries are Buffalo Trace which was founded in 1787 in Frankfort, Kentucky; Jim Beam Distillery founded in 1795 in Clermont, Kentucky; and Woodford Reserve Distillery dates from 1812 in Versailles, Kentucky.

But, the Volstead Act of 1920 decimated the century-old industry. And, after 13 years  (Prohibition ended in 1933), most distilleries had sold off their copper stills for much-needed cash (remember the Great Depression began in 1929). Most distillers had simply faded away, long before it was legal once again to produce whiskey and Bourbon. It was a slow comeback.

Then, President Johnson’s administration officially recognized Bourbon as the only distinctively American spirit ― on May 4, 1964 ― by an act of Congress. Under federal law, bourbon must be made in the United States, and it must consist of at least 51 percent corn, it cannot be distilled above 160 proof, and it must be aged in new, charred oak containers. Most are aged a minimum of four years.

The real Bourbon boom began about 15 years ago when the growing popularity of Bourbon, led to a dramatic increase in brands and expressions like never before. It’s still ramping up ― showing no signs of slowing. In fact, countries like Australia and Japan are two of the largest importers of American Bourbon, and distilleries are running their production facilities around the clock just to match the demand.

While Texas Bourbon distilleries are coming on strong, Kentucky remains the epicenter of the Bourbon world. When you visit you’ll learn everything from its history to its chemistry. It’s time to hit the Trail, the Kentucky Bourbon Trail.