In Umbria several years ago the woman in whose agriturismo I was staying put a basket of vegetables on my porch as a welcome gift. The produce had been grown on the family farm, and in it were several artichokes. I prepared them simply that evening, trimming and turning them, and they made a wonderful meal. Recently, at Tony’s, I revisited Umbria, and the journey was a pleasant one. The restaurant’s Roman Artichoke Salad took me there. It was a perfect little dish. Vallone olive oil, Parmigiano Reggiano, a few truffles shaved over the top of it all. And the artichokes. Cooked properly, no discoloring, every bite a small journey.