There’s a charming town in Provence called Vaison-la-Romaine. I spent several days there a few years back and, from my headquarters at the Hotel Burrhus, made numerous trips to wineries in the area, including Domaine de Mourchon. (Mourchon is a family affair. If you’re ever in the area, stop by the estate for a taste.) Not long ago in Houston, I happened upon a bottle from Mourchon, the 2012 La Source (40 percent Viognier, 20 percent Grenache Blanc, 20 percent Roussanne and Marsanne, and 20 percent Clairette and Bourboulenc). I was enjoying a bit of salmon, smoked, when someone at the table produced the bottle and poured me a glass. I told them I had visited the winery, and we agreed that though it was not the ideal pairing for salmon, La Source would be excellent with a goat cheese tart: stone fruits on the nose, slightly citrusy finish and decent minerality. It is on the menu at Brix Wine Cellars in Houston for $34; in Dallas, order a bottle at Mansion on Turtle Creek for $51. Inquire at your favorite wine seller for availability in your neighborhood.