Diana Vreeland transformed the role of the the fashion magazine.
Ángel Sánchez coat, at angelsanchezusa.com. Louis Vuitton dress, at the Louis Vuitton boutique. Fernando Rodriguez earrings. Elisheva & Constance ring, at elisheva.constance.com. Julie Vos cuffs in amethyst and onyx $345, at À Bientôt, Elizabeth Anthony.
Louis Vuitton jacquard knit top $1,600, and skirt $2,530, both at the Louis Vuitton boutique.
Rochas midi dress $1,405, at Kick Pleat. Ellery pant $795, at Kick Pleat. AV Max Cristiana necklace $118, at À Bientôt.
D.V. sent Veruschka to Japan with Richard Avedon and Polly Mellen for a shoot that would become a photographic legend: “The Great Fur Caravan,” where hairstylist Ara Gallant creates a wig eight feet long. Vreeland’s response when she sees the wig is, “I want 20 feet!” 1966.
Louis Vuitton dress and Infinivy single plate gold earring at the Louis Vuitton boutique.
Penelope Tree, who ushered in the waifish look, was discovered by Diana Vreeland at Truman Capote's Black and White Ball, 1966.
Diana Vreeland took Marisa Berenson (the actress, model, and granddaughter of designer Elsa Schiaparelli) to Iran to be photographed by Henry Clarke in front of a shrine, wearing a sky-blue Halston robe, harem pants, and a braided ponytail that hung mid-thigh, 1969. Ear cuff by Máscaras de Alambre.
Emilio Pucci scarf at Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue. Fernando Rodriguez rings, and Kendra Scott gold earrings in smoky crystal $130, at Kendra Scott. Susan Shaw Bee pendant necklace $88, AV Max Cristiana necklace $118, Clementine twisted cuffs $38, chain bracelet $38, beaded bracelets $38 and $48, David Jeffery cuff $128, and Replica gold bracelet $148, all at À Bientôt.
Max Mara wool silk-blend teddy-bear coat $2,590, at the Max Mara boutique, Elizabeth Anthony, Saks Fifth Avenue. Hermès scarf, at the Hermès boutique. Julie Vos Catalina ring $185, at À Bientôt, Elizabeth Anthony.
Andrés Pajón caftan at andrespajon.com. Benito Santos sandals at benitosantos.com.mx. Janis Savitt double cobra bracelet $148, and Clementine textured gold bangle $68, at À Bientôt. David Jeffery cuff $128, at À Bientôt. Kendra Scott Fabia earrings $250, at Kendra Scott.
Penelope Tree, who ushered in the waifish look, was discovered by Diana Vreeland at Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball, 1966.
Lorena Saravia skirt, at lorenasaravia.com. Wafa by Wafa Talea earrings $112, at À Bientôt.
Editor’s note: PaperCity’s counting down to the holidays with ultra-curated and distinctive gift guides.
Her dining room at 550 Park Avenue was clad in red, yellow, green and purple stripes. The walls of her office at Vogue were collaged with layers of her favorite historic references, fashion photographs, strips of paper with favorite quotes, typed letters, Japanese kites.
Her living room, which she famously declared a “garden in hell,” was a sensory experience from top to bottom.
“For the nose, there were vases of fresh flowers, scented candles, incense, and her favorite room spray,” remembers her grandson, Alexander Vreeland in his book Diana Vreeland Memos: The Vogue Years. “For the eyes, red fabric walls, books, a multitude of paintings, photographs, furniture, and immaculately polished objects and boxes on every surface. For the ear, endless stories and wonderful conversations.”
This is the great editor Diana Vreeland, whose tenures at Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, from 1936 until the late ‘80s, transformed the role a fashion magazine played in the life of its reader. Looking at Vogue or Harper’s Bazaar during that time was like peering through a window into her brilliant mind.
Vreeland had long strong fingers and a lankiness that was both elegant and awkward at the same time. She stood stick straight and emoted theatrically. She spoke with a fabricated accent that was part English and part European — though it would be impossible to pinpoint the actual country of origin.
Vreeland was not, in the traditional sense, a great beauty. And it was this that, perhaps, drove her to seek great beauty — to create an image and dictate beauty; to reinvent what it meant to be beautiful; to discover muses who were great beauties themselves.
Thus we dedicate this year’s gift guide to the lover of all things extravagant, rigorous and inventive, and to the iconic women she created and introduced to the world. Penelope Tree. Veruschka. Marisa Berenson. Vreeland would say these women had pizzazz!