Fashion / Style

With New York Fashion Week in Crisis, the Shows Go On: Harvey Weinstein’s Shadow, Paris’ Pull and Sudden Changes Loom, But Daring Designers Forge On — Sketching a Preview

BY // 02.08.18

New York Fashion Week is in crisis. It appears big changes are in store for the semi-annual showcase of the latest in American fashion as trend-setting designer Alexander Wang has announced he is moving his showings to a December/June schedule after this season (most designers show in February and September).

Currently there is no attractive permanent location for designers to showcase their collections at any time of the year in New York. Again, this season, the official venue is moving — this time to a SoHo loft space.

Georgina Chapman, co-founder of the luxury evening wear label Marchesa, cancelled her show due to the continued fallout over multiple allegations of sexual assault of a large number of women in the entertainment industry by her soon-to-be-ex-husband, Harvey Weinstein. Instead the label plans to present a digital-only showing at a later date.

With the New York fashion scene in turmoil, a number of U.S. designers are increasingly choosing Paris over New York. Such hip names as Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, Zuhair Murad, and Reem Acra have decamped to the French capital to get more worldwide exposure while Tommy Hilfiger is showing his collection in Milan.

But that isn’t stopping hundreds of U.S. designers as well a smattering of fashion houses in China and Europe, including the Milan luxury label Bottega Veneta, from making a splash in New York with the first look at their fall/winter 2018 collections at venues in and around lower Manhattan. The fashion extravaganza officially runs from February 8 to 15, but a number of seasoned designers and up-and-comers are offering PaperCity an exclusive look at what’s inspiring them for next fall and winter.

In the sketches shown in the photo gallery above, the ideas range from inspirations from classic novels to menswear tailoring and “never boring, always daring” looks.  Emerging designer Audra Danielle Nowles of the luxe line AUDRA, seems to sum up the mood best: Her inspiration: “Seasons of Uncertainty.”

What to Look Forward to in New York

Some designers are just looking to have all-out fun. Houston favorite Christian Siriano plans to pull out all the stops to celebrate a decade of shows. He launched his first collection at New York Fashion Week in 2008, soon after winning Project Runway, and has since emerged as one of American fashion’s bright young designers. He has led the charge to dress women of all sizes — a trend that many top designers have adopted — and is a major go-to designers for celebrities at awards shows.

Such noted designers as Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, and Marc Jacobs are also continuing to stick with New York showings, along with such newcomers as east Texas-native Brandon Maxwell. All are staging large-scale runway shows.

Other designers, such as Jenny Packham, Victoria Beckham, Randi Rahm, and Yigal Azrouel, are going with intimate one-on-one meetings with the fashion press to showcase their collections in a more personal way, where it’s possible to see the clothes up-close and actually touch them.

In a fashion season when everything is changing, it’s seems a smart thing to do.

Part of the Special Series:

PaperCity - On the Runway Fall 2018

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