The lounge at Bullion
Paté En Croûte (mâche, all grain mustard) at Bullion
Fluke Crudo (green olive, pinenut cream, preserved lemon) at Bullion
Upscale French restaurant, Bullion.
Bar at Bullion
Dinner at Bullion is dramatic — moody, elegant, and the absolute definition of understated glamour. This is the general consensus around Dallas: Executive chef Bruno Davaillon has made magic with his cuisine, and designer Martin Brudnizki complemented it all with an interior that is, by far, the most beautiful of all the restaurants in town.
Cocktail hour at Bullion is preternaturally chic. It is the kind of lush lounge scene, where one would expect to find Humphrey Bogart and a gorgeous silver-screen siren sipping in the shadows of a quiet corner table. Modern meets classic and it makes grabbing drinks an occasion to be savored. Not to mention, you will be hard pressed to find a more comfortable seat in all of Dallas.
Settle in to a banquette and three hours will pass before you realize you’ve now ordered your third Old Fashioned.
With dinner and happy hour perfectly taken care of, we were naturally intrigued by what lunch service, which debuted mid January, would have in store. After our first bite, here’s what you need to know about an afternoon at Bullion.
The interior takes on an entirely different personality during the day. Large windows allow natural light to flood in, and the dimly lit mood of dinner is replaced by a bright, nearly glistening, tone that gives the whole place a slightly more casual feel. In other words, for lunch, Bullion is just as appealing to suited up businessmen, perfectly coiffed ladies who lunch, well-dressed young professionals, and corporate America-types who work in nearby buildings.
As for the food, you’ll find Davaillon’s signature balance of high and low — dishes are sophisticated but never fussy. Case in point? Appetizers range from indulgent Gougéres au Gruyère (Gruyère cheese puffs) to Soupe de Topinambour (sunchoke, truffle butter, and brioche) and Fluke Crudo (green olive, pinenut cream, preserved lemon).
Entrees are a mix of smaller portioned items from the dinner menu, including Cabillaud & Brandade (cod, tomato confit, lemon and caper) and Quenelle Lyonnaise Sauce Américaine (white fish dumpling with lobster sauce), plus more traditional French lunch fare such as Salade Niçoise (seared tuna, confit tomato, bibb lettuce, fingerling potatoes and egg dressing) and Croque Monsieur (toasted pain de mie, jambon de Paris, Gruyère and truffle béchamel).
And because this is Texas, after all, there is a burger. For those who were devoted fans of Davaillon’s burger when he was the executive chef at The Mansion restaurant, prepare yourself: This one takes the cake. While I am by no means a food critic, I know a good burger.
This one, with its onion jam, melted Emmental, and aioli, is divine with all the pieces (bun, beef, toppings) in perfect ratio. At $16 this is certainly no Whataburger — but what price breaking your diet?
Bullion, 400 S. Record Street, 972.698.4250, bullionrestaurant.com. Lunch served from 11:30 a.m. until 2 p.m.