Fort Worth’s Cultural District Welcomes a Taste of Mexico’s Shores With Dos Mares

When Don Artemio opened in Fort Worth three years ago, public praise and critical acclaim soon followed. Chef Juan Ramón Cárdenas, who founded the original Don Artemio in Satillo, Mexico, brought a thoughtfully curated vision rooted in centuries-old Mexican heritage with the second location — his first venture in the United States.

The recent opening of Dos Mares, located beside Don Artemio in the Cultural District, brings a new vision, one that expands beyond the arid landscapes of Coahuila and explores the coasts of our southern neighbor. Chef Cárdenas tells PaperCity Fort Worth that the idea of starting a sister concept began soon after the opening of Don Artemio Fort Worth.

“We saw this opportunity because the space next door was available,” he says. “We wanted to have more equipment in our kitchen, but we didn’t have space. I have always loved the sea. We are from the desert in Coahuila. My son Rodrigo worked with great teachers in New York. He had the idea of doing something Mexican with seafood. We started to think about how we could showcase these different cultures.”

A Look Inside Dos Mares

Dos Mares, which is designed by Luis González de León and Javier Lucio, features an open kitchen on the north end of the dining space. Overhead wooden beams backed by fishing nets lend a coastal sensibility to the space that harmoniously blends brick, light wood, and teal tiles.

Rodrigo Cárdenas is now the culinary director of both Don Artemio and the new spot. After methodically researching regions like including Veracruz, Oaxaca, Chiapas, Puerto Vallarta, Acapulco, and Tampico, the current menu features 32 Mexican dishes, cocktails, and wines from the world’s coastal regions.

At a recent soft opening event, we tried several delightful dishes, from the broiled Alabama oysters with foie gras foam, which was one of our favorite openers, to the richly seasoned grilled lobster that featured bold spices from the Yucatecan region. Juan Ramón says the menu leans heavily into small plates that can be shared.

“In Mexico, you can have a full meal with only starters,” he says. “People order a lot of small plates to share. We love oysters. Fort Worth has access to many oysters from across the country. Here, the Rockefeller oysters are popular. We wanted to do something similar but a little different. The foie gras was inspired by my work catering high-end weddings, where I cook Italian and French food.”

The Pulpo en Tinta Estilo Veracruz (octopus in ink) reflects the rich culture of the Veracruz region.

“Veracruz is a fascinating state,” Juan Ramón says. “If you want to experience the deep heart of Mexico, you go to Veracruz. It’s where everything began. The Spanish arrived there with their culture, followed by French and Italian communities. The Totonacas lived there long before, creating a rich blend of influences layered over incredibly fertile land. It’s an extraordinary place to eat. Many of the dishes from Veracruz were staples in family homes and came served with white rice and a kind of aioli.”

One rich red sauce found in the Taco Gobernador and La Reina del Comal is painstakingly prepared by roasting tomatoes the boiling them with serrano peppers, then adding raw onion and garlic, along with fresh parsley or cilantro. Everything is then blended into a savory sauce that has layers of flavor. Cooking, the master chef says, comes down to one’s ability to control fire.

“A real cook knows how to handle fire,” he says. “In this kitchen, we have an open fire that is very rustic, a charcoal oven that has no controls and has to be managed by hand, and high-end ovens. We have the full spectrum from rustic to high-tech.”

What’s Next for Fort Worth’s Newest Upscale Restaurant

Juan Ramón says his team is already planning a trip to the state of Tabasco in Mexico in January. The coming weeks will focus on training staff and smoothing out operations in the kitchen. By spring, Juan Ramón plans to offer wine pairings and special events that showcase not only seafood but lesser-known coastal wines from Europe, South Africa, and California. One upcoming event will showcase the cutting of an entire raw tuna, prepared for tartares and other delicate dishes, with each plate paired with champagnes and mezcals.

Don Artemio was nominated as a finalist for the James Beard Award in the Best New Restaurant category in March 2023, and many expected the restaurant to be a top contender for recognition by the Michelin Guide. While critical acclaim for Dos Mares would be welcomed, Juan Ramón says that is not the focus of his team at the moment.

“I grew up in Saltillo,” he says. “We do not have a Michelan star. My dad had his restaurant, and we focused on doing things right. We wanted to showcase our culture and to show how proud we are of Mexican food. We love to make memorable moments for the people we take care of. That’s our main mission.”