Houston’s Newest Mexican Restaurant Veers Away From the Usual Tex-Mex Playbook — Your First Taste Look at Johnny Ritas

The restaurant had been on his mind for years, and finally, with a tip from his former landlord on a building for sale in the Lindale Park neighborhood of Houston, Chico Ramirez and his team began planning their new Mexican-inspired spot dubbed Johnny Ritas Cocina Y Cantina at 5602 Fulton Street.

The catchy name honors Chico’s grandparents Johnny Johnson and Rita Ramirez, and the homey Mexican-style food of his youth. The casual restaurant was designed by Chico’s wife Wyndy Ramirez of Wynne Design Works. The site, a new build created from the ground up, was originally conceived as a renovation project. But when work began, it became glaringly apparent that the old building couldn’t sustain it. So a new build became the new plan.

With seating inside and outdoors, the intimate feeling space inside now features vintage family portraits, a terracotta breezy brick wall and furnishings like the custom bar and tables handcrafted by Gino Vian.

Recalling the fragrant aroma of pork slowly rendered in a cast iron skillet on his grandmother’s stove and his grandad’s short ribs cooked low and slow under an orange tree on their backyard barbecue, inspired Chico and his chef/restaurant partner Jesús Salinas to bring their mesquite wood and charcoal smoked food to their latest collaboration. This duo goes way back, working together at Houston restaurants Field & Tides and White Elm Brasserie.

Veering from the popular Tex-Mex playbook, Chico and Salinas highlight Oaxacan street food along with seafood inspired by the dishes they’ve enjoyed in the Baja region, an area rife with the freshest fish. For example, the Del Mar section of the menu features two aguachile options ($17 each) made with yellow tail or Gulf shrimp, and charcoal-grilled Gulf oysters napped with a green butter salsa (six for $16).

Tostadas include El Azul, an Asian-inspired, marinated tuna tostada accented with soy, sesame, wasabi and fish sauce piled atop a crisp house-made corn tortilla ($22), as well as the El Brazo ($22) where octopus is mingled with redfish in a salsa Roja marinade topped with sliced avocado and a sprinkle of tajin.

Generous sharable entrees include costillas cortas ($31), beef short ribs braised in Mexican beer with a pair of mushroom-stuffed tamales by its side, carnitas ($18) inspired by grandmother Rita and their signature spiced rubbed snapper a la parilla ($32) grilled over charcoal and finished with garlic butter, jumbo lump crabmeat and mole Amarillo.

And you can’t coin a Mexican restaurant with a cheeky name like Johnny Ritas without offering a few variations on a signature drink. You’ll find margaritas both on the rocks and frozen with variations on the theme. Those include a strawberry basil ($14) as well as tequila-tinged cocktails such as the repo ember ($14) mixed with a smoky reposado tequila, mango nectar, ginger syrup and a splash of bitters. Then there is the El Sude ($15) made with blood orange, reposado, lime juice and olive brine.

Johnny Ritas is open from Mondays through Fridays from 3 pm to 10 pm, and from 9:30 am to 10 pm Saturdays and Sundays.