Top Texas Father and Daughter Chefs Open Up About Owning Restaurants in Coronavirus Pandemic
Tom (Perini Ranch Steakhouse) and Caroline Perini (Easy Slider) Reflect on What They've Learned
BY Megan Ziots // 04.24.20Tom and Caroline Perini
Since opening in 1983, Perini Ranch Steakhouse has become known for serving some of the best chuck-wagon-style food in the country. Founder Tom Perini, a James Beard Award winner, opened the spot in Buffalo Gap after catering ranch events across Texas for a decade. As it turned out, a passion for cooking ran in the family, and his daughter Caroline Perini co-founded her own burger food truck with Miley Holmes in 2011.
Easy Slider now has a permanent location in Deep Ellum, along with a new truck coming to Grapevine’s Harvest Hall this summer.
The father and daughter chefs recently sat down and interviewed each other for PaperCity about the “Culinary School of Dad” and being in the restaurant business during a pandemic.
Tom to Caroline – Tell me more about the “Culinary School of Dad?” What did you want to be when you grew up?
Caroline: Dad, let’s make a deal … nothing embarrassing. No swim-lesson stories, promise?
The culinary school of dad is free, first of all. But in all seriousness, I don’t think you realized you were teaching me these life lessons that I use everyday in my business. Would I have been an attorney? Um, I don’t know. What I do know is that we both love the hospitality industry, and it speaks to our DNA. I learned a lot from him growing up over the years, even the simple task of slicing a brisket. How many teenagers know how to do that? I would say that I got an A+++. I am going to get emotional here, but I really listen to you when you talk, and really take your advice: paying attention to detail, how to treat your staff, and how to interact with customers.
Tom: I do agree with that! We both really enjoy people and hospitality. I think that is the thing that bothers me the most right now: We can’t be in our community, enjoying what we do best. It’s very apparent to see what you’ve done with your restaurant and food trucks. She has really stepped out.
Caroline: I always knew this would be my path, but I didn’t know to what extent.
Tom to Caroline – I am in Buffalo Gap, and you are in Deep Ellum, but there are some similarities to our brands. How are you embracing the DFW community in a time where everyone in hospitality is struggling?
Caroline: First of all, everyone is struggling. We want to help relieve that struggling and provide some sort of normalcy for our friends, who are also our customers, our staff. We’re really trying to keep the doors open and feed essential employees.
We’ve adjusted our whole menu where you can order and pay online for pick-up. We’re going to neighborhoods and feeding families on our food trucks – we’re trying to create that comfortable environment that you have in Buffalo Gap and that I have in Deep Ellum for our customers and maintain it.
We’ve also built out a bodega from our food-ruck HQ that’s a one-stop shop. You can order sliders for your family, then pick up some paper towels and toilet paper, deli meat, or a fresh loaf of bread.
We’re even opening a new food truck in Grapevine. We’re serving steaks, ribs, fried quail legs … You should really try the beef tenderloin! Opening date Summer 2020, in partnership with Harvest Hall and Hotel Vin by Marriott.
Tom to Caroline – Now, be careful, but what is the best lesson learned in the Culinary School of Dad?
Caroline: I’m trying really hard to mind my Ps and Qs right now …
Dad, I don’t know if you remember this, when I learned what “food costs” means. Back in the ’80s, I discovered the walk-in cooler. And, in the walk-in cooler was a beautiful platter of cherry tomatoes. I took that whole platter outside, and — because they would explode, and it was dramatic and fun — threw every single cherry tomato against a brick wall and spent 30 to 45 minutes destroying your inventory.
Tom: I didn’t know about this story …
Caroline: Well, in the Culinary School of Dad” we learn about quality, and I really think it’s important to taste those kinds of things before they make it to the guests’ tables. That was the first time I’d heard the term “food costs” and really started to wrap my head around it. I was probably nine years old.
But, really: Use good ingredients, don’t cut corners, and be consistent. And, as you used to say, “If you don’t take care of mama, mama won’t take care of you.” At first I didn’t understand what that meant and thought you were crazy. But mama is the business — the restaurant — and if you don’t take care of that, then you don’t have anything. You don’t have a place for people to keep returning to; you don’t have jobs for people.
Caroline to Tom – This is not your first financial crisis. How would you advise young hospitality entrepreneurs like myself?
Tom: Unfortunately, we all have to learn the hard way. I’ve always said that cash flow is always so important in any small business. If you don’t have cash flow, you’re in trouble. Most of us, when we make money, we spend it, so when we get caught in a situation like this – where it’s no one’s fault, it just happens – there are an awful lot of mom-and-pop businesses that will, unfortunately, not have the cash to last for very long.
I would think for small businesses, if they were to have a little bit built up in savings, or to not spend all of your profits… You just never know what will happen. But, you’ve got to be smart in how you operate. Cash flow is going to control everything that you do, whether it’s today or four months in the future.
Caroline: Is that how you survived the Great Depression??
Tom: I know you think I’m old, but I’m not that old!
Caroline to Tom – What is something you didn’t realize you would miss about the restaurant?
Tom: I really have missed people. When you go up to the restaurant now, we have two or three people getting ready for the evening pick-up of things to-go. But not being able to walk by the tables and say, “Hello,” and seeing friends, and all the excitement that goes along with that … That’s been tough. At this time, what I’ve really missed is seeing people. And then [he laughs] the other thing is the cash flow.
Caroline: I’ve missed the sound and all the noises that the restaurant makes. All the conversation and the sound of printers printing, dishes being stacked. It’s kind of the soundtrack to our lives, and it’s been quiet.
Tom: Too quiet!
Caroline: It’s a scary quiet, but I didn’t realize for me personally how much I thrived off that energy. Not having that has been a struggle… [Laughing again]. And cash flow!
Tom: And cash flow! It really goes back to cash flow. But while we’re missing those things, we’re also trying to do things for people. We’re trying to help food banks and help anyone we can. All those things are important. We think we’re hurting, but there are a lot of people out there hurting too. Anything leftover, anything someone else can use, or ways to help others is a great idea.