Houston’s New French Restaurant With a Mysterious Name Marks the Return of a Beloved Chef — PS-21 Is Here

PS-21, a new Houston restaurant’s cryptic name is neither a New York public school nor does it refer to a psalm in the bible. No in fact, PS-21 is a simple acronym for the year the idea for the restaurant came to life, as well as the first initials of its talented founders. That would be chef Philippe Schmit and Sébastien Laval, two French-born restauranteurs who have spent the last two decades or so in Houston making a distinctive mark on the Bayou City’s restaurant scene.

As you might recall, top toque Schmit led the kitchens at Bistro Moderne, his own restaurant Philippe Restaurant + Lounge and Toulouse. Laval, now also working as an in-demand consultant, has a resume that boasts time managing the front-of-the-house operations at lauded Houston restaurants such as MAD, Musaafer, Le Colonial and La Table.

Taking over the former locale of Queen Vic and Olive & Twist on Richmond Avenue, the duo has pared back the 3,400 square space with architect George Atala to create a clean aesthetic inside with rich plum-painted walls with accents of dark woods and caramel-colored leather chairs pulled up to white cloth-covered tables. Outdoors on the covered patio, sheets of faux boxwood line the ceiling illuminated with tiny star-like LED lights.

Dining at PS-21 I’m reminded that to dine on authentic French cuisine, one should recall it’s a leisurely paced experience. The food is savored never rushed, and moreover its flavor profiles are often quite subtle. If you’re accustomed to eating food cooked with a riot of spice followed by a wave of heat, you won’t find it in French fare.

The PS-21 Menu

At PS-21. they’ve embraced the experience of l’apero, short for an aperitif meant to open your appetite for what is to come. It’s that treasured hour or so before dinner when you can unwind over a cocktail and a few shareable snacks like céléri rémoulade ($12), celery root, rarely seen on American shores (but much adored by moi) which bears no resemblance to those ubiquitous green fibrous stalks. Here the root vegetable is shredded and enrobed in a delicate remoulade simply seasoned with a cool housemade mayonnaise spiked with Dijon (we presume) mustard and a touch of lemon juice. It’s as subtle as it gets, and if you like, it can be topped with a sparse shaving of fresh black truffles too.

I mistakenly overlooked the tarte flambée l’apero ($19), the caramelized onion and bacon tart traditionally made with baker’s dough scraps and topped with crème fraiche. (There’s always next time.) Instead, I ordered the brandade ($16). Made as it traditionally is in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France with salted codfish pureed with potatoes and olive oil, the brandade is topped with panko bread crumbs, gratinéed and served alongside spears of toasted focaccia.

The cocktails at PS-21, created with mixologist Souvik Dasgupta highlight ingredients that hail from regions within France’s borders to French territories all over the globe. For example, the Polynésie ($16) is a tincture mixed with fresh pineapple and pineapple sorbet, crème de coco and champagne to the Casablanca ($16) the Moroccan mélange made with rum spiced with turmeric, cardamon bitters and tonic.

Moving on, do not miss the steak tartare ($35) made with prime-grade tenderloin, the beef is finely chopped and served “Rossini” with sauteed foie gras and toasted pain de mie by its side. Other appetizers include lobster bisque ($18) served two ways: one topped with a crust of puff pastry and the other with a fish quenelle bobbing atop, a trio of salads, and foie gras terrine ($28) with kumquat marmalade.

Come winter, when the temperature drops, it will be wise to remember that PS-21 offers tableside Raclette service for two ($28 per person) where the half wheel of Raclette cheese is brought tableside, warmed and served with fingerling potatoes, pickles and charcuterie. I enjoyed the crispy salmon ($27), three medallions encircling a dollop of asparagus pesto before its wrapped in a crispy brick pastry served with a zucchini and pepper relish. Seafood bouillabaisse ($32) as well as a vegan version ($24) grace the menu along with traditional steak frites ($48) with grilled ribeye, with your choice of peppercorn, bordelaise or bearnaise sauce.

Diners can end their repast with a cheese board ($22). The chef’s selection undoubtedly will pair well with so many of the wines on PS-21’s all-French wine list. Another option is an apple Tatin ($18), set ablaze tableside with a shot of calvados. For those who just simply want something sweet and small, the coffee or tea gourmand ($14) offers either beverage (or a chocolate mini martini for an additional $8) with three mini pastries

 PS-21 is located at 2712 Richmond Avenue. The restaurant is open from 5 pm to 10 pm Tuesdays through Thursdays and 5 pm to 11 pm Fridays and Saturdays. It is closed Sundays and Mondays.