Inside The Heights’ Already Hot New Food Hall — Railway Heights Market Brings Comfort Food Finds, Little Surprises and Swing Time

The Heights area’s new food hall is very much open — and bustling. Two recent Friday and Saturday night visits to Railway Heights Market a week apart found the white stone covered parking lot relatively filled and most of the second level outdoor tables taken. (No worries, you can also grab one of the picnic tables outside the first level, which seem to be much less used.)

While Railway Heights is officially in its soft opening, the scene screams anything but that. It’s already been embraced by a part of town that is short of food halls. From the big porch swings and games on the large lawn outside to the bustling wine bar inside.

This is what Shepard Ross, Anh Mai and Lian Nguyen — the same team behind Bravery Chef Hall in the Aris Market Square tower downtown — envisioned for this long-plotted food hall at 8200 Washington Avenue. Railway Heights is a very different food hall from Bravery Chef Hall, though.

Its setting on a quieter section of Washington Ave and unique sloping roof, two-story building give its much more outdoor space and a larger scope. Plus, its restaurant offerings lean much more comfort food than Bravery’s.

This is what a food hall should be. A place to discover new things. A place where local spots get a chance.

There are burgers (from the cheeky named Peaky Grinders), mac n’ cheese (from Mac and Twist), chicken wings (Greedy Chicken), pierogies (Pierogi Queen), pho (Drunken Pho), Japanese milk bread sandwiches (Sandos), juices and smoothies (Churrazon), and pizza (BOH Slice) to fill almost all your comfort food cravings. Still on our two visits, the samosas from Samos Haus emerged as the clear favorite of the table.

Some of the restaurant stalls are still clearly adjusting to the idea of being in a bustling food hall during this not-so soft opening. Myunka — which boasts an intriguing menu of ceviches and Nikkei cuisine from established Houston chef David Gurrero’s South America travels — declared itself closed more than 40 minutes before Railway Heights’ posted 10 pm closing on our last visit. No explanation was even offered to several would-be diners who’d been waiting in line at the time.

That’s not exactly a great way to build return business, but hiccups are a way of life amid the 2021 restaurant realities of today.

Railway Heights’ Local Surprises and Wine Time

One place where service is already on point is the wine bar in the center of the second level. Puncheon offers a surprisingly deep selection of wines by the glass that goes beyond just the usual notes. And its bartenders are quick to greet customers and offer a recommendation if requested.

Railway Heights’ second floor setup, with strollers needing to almost duck around corners to discover spots like Greedy Chicken, Sandos and Heads & Tails (fried Gulf Coast seafood, including crawfish), give it a unique charm. The large flower and plant market that is one of the first things you see coming up the wide stairs adds more of a wonderland feel.

This is not just another cookie cutter food hall.

No one is this more than reinforced than at the ground level where you’ll find local vendors set up at tables around a large room below the grand stairs. This turned out to be my 8-year-old daughter’s favorite part of the food hall by far.

You can find everything from bath bombs to crystals to cheese (Tablitas), chocolate (Migaloo Chocolatier) and brownies (Pioneer Women’s Bakery). Most of the food spots on this level are quick to give a sample. My daughter became a quick convert and loyal customer after trying the Pioneer Women’s Bakery brownies.

This is what a food hall should be. A place to discover new things. A place where local spots get a chance.

Railway Heights will be adding more — including a massive beer garden, which should open up another side of the building and even more outdoor seating. That’s expected to debut in October.

Railway Heights Market is already more than a “concept” in training wheels, though. Eating a meal with a glass of wine outside (there is also plenty of indoor seating if you’re into that kind of thing during these delta variant times), before wandering over to play a game of giant Connect 4 or cornhole, and get in a swing, already makes for a very pleasant evening.

In the stifling heat of a Houston summer night. Just imagine how much better it will be in October. Or November.

Railway Heights Market has already very much arrived. The crowds are already here. And so is a little bit of magic.

Railway Heights is currently open Wednesdays and Thursdays from 4 pm to 9 pm, Fridays from 4 pm to 10 pm, Saturdays from 11 am to 10 pm and Sundays from 11 am to 9 pm. The lawn games (giant Connect 4, Jenga, cornhole) are usually put away shortly after closing time. The swings are always there.