Culture / Travel / Holiday

A Holiday Staycation Guide to the Fort Worth Stockyards

Where to Stay, Dine, and Visit in and Around Mule Alley This Winter

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On a recent morning, we left the Stockyards Hotel and stepped onto East Exchange Street, the cold, crisp air tinged with the smell of burning post oak from nearby restaurants. While my daughter and I waited for the Stockyards Rodeo Rink to reopen at 11 am, we grabbed breakfast at Hotel Drover’s 97 West Kitchen & Bar. Outside, groups of workers were putting the final touches on the Christmas decorations ahead of Friday’s Legendary Tree Lighting.

While the Stockyards and Mule Alley are comfortably at home in sweltering summers, there’s more than a bit of holiday magic in the district this time of year. Here, photos with Cowboy Santa and story time with Mrs. Claus mix with holiday shopping and outings to ice skate and visit other family-friendly attractions. To truly take in everything the Stockyards brings to the table, an overnight stay (or two) gives you the time to slow down, explore, and enjoy the full character of this historic district. Here are our top recommendations on where to stay, dine, and visit this winter.

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On a recent morning, groups of workers were putting the final touches on the Christmas decorations ahead of Friday’s Legendary Tree Lighting. (Courtesy)

Where to Stay

Whether you want historic lodgings that capture the spirit of the early 1900s or a more polished Western-lux experience, the Stockyards has you covered. The crown jewel of Mule Alley is Hotel Drover, the award-winning Autograph Collection hotel by Marriott, which boasts 200 rooms and luxury amenities in the heart of the Stockyards.

For our stay, we booked a room at the Stockyards Hotel, a historic lodging built in the early 1900s that maintains a blend of Old-West and Victorian-era charm. The main lobby is decked out in holiday decor and connects directly to H3 Ranch. Just around the corner is the completely remodeled Cattleman’s Steak House, which is now co-owned by Taylor Sheridan and home to a forthcoming private members club. After staying at The Nobleman Hotel, Le Meridian, and Hotel Dryce this year, the Stockyards Hotel is officially my daughter’s “favorite hotel” in town.

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Chef Marcus Paslay’s Provender Hall brings fresh seafood, classic Texas cuisine, and superlative cocktails to Mule Alley. (Courtesy)

Where to Dine

Old-fashioned burgers are always in vogue at Stockyards Station, where we had lunch soon after checking in at the Stockyards Hotel. For dinner, we visited Provender Hall, where my daughter enjoyed fried chicken strips while I finished off crispy pork rinds that came with a zesty, creamy sauce. Happy hour pricing kept my glass of red wine at just $5.

Dining in the Stockyards will never leave you short on options. Chef Tim Love runs numerous restaurants, including Paloma Suerte, which actor James Jordan — who currently stars on Landman: Season 2 — recently told us is one of his favorite spots in town. Other must-try restaurants include the revamped Cattlemen’s Steak House and the aforementioned Hotel Drover restaurant, where my 7-year-old devoured three chocolate chip pancakes on our last day out.

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Don’t pass up the Stockyards Rodeo Rink, which has start times every day through January 4. (Courtesy)

Things to Do

Don’t pass up the Stockyards Rodeo Rink, which has start times every day through January 4. For $10, you can rent a plastic skating aid for youngsters. My daughter held onto a plastic dolphin named Bobby as she tried to find her footing on the ice. We learned the skate trainer doubles as a ride-on toy, which, in my girl’s case, soon became dad-powered. We both had a blast and were first in line the next morning.

We’re big fans of the Cowtown Cattlepen Maze, a wooden tangle of walkways where you can try your luck finding hidden letters that spell “maze.” The nearby petting corral is also popular with kiddos, while John Wayne: An American Experience museum offers a welcome indoor detour with film props, memorabilia, and a look at the Western icon’s larger-than-life career.

Cowboy Santa will be on hand for photos starting this Friday, November 28, through December 24. Mrs. Claus hosts story time inside Cowboy Santa’s Workshop on weekends throughout the holiday season, with several sessions each afternoon. This Friday’s grand arrival of Cowboy Santa kicks off with a parade at 11:30 am at East Exchange Street and Mule Alley and the annual tree lighting ceremony at 6 pm.

And, yes, you’ll probably spot me out on the rink, pushing my little one along as she urges me on with shouts of “faster!”

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