Culture / Travel

Rediscovering Maui and the Resort Haven of Kaanapali — This Tropical Wonderland Can Still Surprise

Where to Stay, Eat, Shop and Play

BY // 01.04.23

Until the early 1980s, the only flights to arrive on the Hawaiian island of Maui had to first stop through Honolulu as the gateway to the rest of the islands. Even then, those flights were a rarity. So millions of tourists chose to simply stay put on Oahu, and forgo the added flight to reach Maui and its resort haven of Kaanapali. But as Maui’s Kahului Airport expanded its runways and grew into an international airport with regular nonstop flights from Canada and the United States mainland ― including American Airlines’ convenient direct flights from Dallas ― what was once a sleepy island, slowly began to awaken.

I’ve been to Maui and its elegant Kaanapali destination twice before ― both trips were taken prior to the nonstop option from DFW. And like so many other tourists who now visit Maui annually, I prefer the ease of a direct flight to paradise. No puddle jumpers, no layovers, just a comfy eight-hour flight that feels a bit like Dorothy clicking her heels twice, and suddenly the whole world becomes technicolor.

Maui is a lot like that. It’s a tropical wonderland just waiting to be explored. Sun-kissed shorelines, palm trees swaying, rainbows appearing overhead and tourists splashing in cobalt blue waters. With umbrella drinks seemingly always at the ready.

A Worthy Maui Hotel Option

For travelers who prefer all the perks of a full-service resort experience, the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa seemingly has it all. With its open-air atrium (a hallmark of the Hyatt Regency flag), multiple restaurants, the Kamaha’o spa (a Marilyn Monroe spa) and a multitude of activities to explore, you won’t go hungry or bored at this hotel retreat.

Maui – Oceanfront view at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa. Photo by Courtney Dabney.
Oceanfront views are part of the sea; at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa. (Photo by Courtney Dabney)

The fine dining on-site includes Japengo restaurant, which is situated to take in the sunset over the Pacific. The breakfast buffet inside the open-air Swan Court comes with waterfall views and, yes, swans floating in the lagoon. The Hyatt’s Grotto Bar is a swim-up affair inside a man-made cave enclosed by waterfalls with Umalu the resort’s poolside dining.

A traditional luau is a must for a first-time visitor and it serves as a fun refresher course for those of us returning to Maui once again. The Hyatt Regency has just revamped its Drums of the Pacific Luau as it celebrates more than 40 years. This nightly luau takes diners on a journey through the Pacific. Enjoy a floral lei demonstration and a three-course plated dinner, along with Polynesian dance and drums. It’s something of a delicious history lesson.

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  • Valobra Jewelry April 2024 Mother's Day
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  • Valobra Jewelry April 2024 Mother's Day
  • Valobra Jewelry April 2024 Mother's Day
  • Valobra Jewelry April 2024 Mother's Day
  • Valobra Jewelry April 2024 Mother's Day
  • Valobra Jewelry April 2024 Mother's Day

Another don’t-miss activity on the grounds of the Hyatt Regency is the Tour of the Stars. The tour is led by Edward J. Mahoney, who serves as the director of astronomy at the hotel. Mahoney is also a NASA solar system ambassador (and something of a local celebrity) who makes star gazing extra entertaining. His soundtrack doesn’t miss a beat, with Sinatra singing Fly Me To The Moon, as Mahoney adjusts his high-powered telescopes on the far reaches of the universe.

Maui is the perfect place to practice astronomy, and the Tour of the Stars allows guests to experience Maui’s crystal-clear skies from the rooftop of the Lahaina Tower.

This is a family friendly hotel with feeding time for the many parrots, and penguins on the grounds. The lagoon-style pool comes complete with waterfalls, hidden grottos and a dedicated children’s wet area.

Another activity is geared towards both teens and adults, allowing them to don a mermaid tail and become a Social Media Mermaid ― capturing mystical portraits or creating boomerangs and videos. Each session includes the rental of a shimmering mermaid tail, posing and swimming techniques, as well as photos and videos airdropped after class for instant gratification.

Prefer a more solitary afternoon? A great way to enjoy nothing but the waves gently lapping the beach is renting a private cabana. Personal servers stand ready to serve up seaside meals and drinks. I’d suggest the ahi tuna salad and mahi tacos. Talk about an attitude adjustment. Time to think and sunbathe in your own completely private, two-person cushioned daybed is another version of Hawaii heaven.

A Kaanapali Condo

While a full-service resort is ideal for many travelers, others may prefer a relaxed private condo vacation experience. On a recent trip, we relished the chance to spread out in a two-bedroom condo at Kaanapali Alii.

While there is no on-site dining at Kaanaapli Ali, the fully stocked kitchens add dine-in convenience. They even have grill masters manning the grills near the pool, allowing you to hand your seasoned meats and veggies off to the pros and get them back with perfect grill marks.

The lush grounds of Kaanapali Alii are serene and the sandy beachfront is a delight. It is fully shaded much of the morning (ideal for fair-skinned folks like me). Simply use your resort card to check out beach and pool towels. There are even two lagoon-style pools, one for splashing with the kids and the other a designated a quiet pool where rows of adults were living their best lives on shaded chaise lounges. Catching up on novels, day drinking and taking catnaps.

Maui – Be on the lookout for rainbows in Maui. Photo by Courtney Dabney.
Be on the lookout for rainbows in Maui. (Photo by Courtney Dabney)

Each privately owned condo at Kaanapali Ali is designed a bit differently, but all have secluded balconies, full-sized washer and dryer sets, gorgeous views of the landscaped grounds and every amenity you need to make the most of your time on Maui’s golden shoreline.

Maui Wonders

Of course, the best part of Kaanapali is its beach walk, connecting many of the hotels and resorts within easy walking distance. It runs from the Hyatt Regency to the black rocks of the Sheraton Maui Resort and Spa, where you can enjoy excellent snorkeling and cliff diving.

Along this section of Kaanapali, you won’t need a rental car with so many quality beaches, restaurants and stores an easy walk away. In the middle of this stretch, you’ll find Whaler’s Village, filled with upscale local shops and some popular seaside restaurants.

For a different view of Maui, consider scheduling a sunset dinner sail, like the ones that launch nightly right from the beach. We enjoyed Teralani’s Dinner Sail, exploring secluded coves and taking in the dramatic Kaanapali coastline and sunset from the ocean.

Winter time whale watchers sometimes get a very close thrill aboard one of Teralani's Dinner Sails.
Winter time whale watchers sometimes get a very close thrill aboard one of Teralani’s Dinner Sails.

Maui is also one of the world’s best locations for whale watching during the winter months. While humpbacks choose Alaskan waters to feed, they travel to Maui to breed, making for a raucous scene between November and May, with whales breaching the surface of the water and splashing down in epic displays.

The whaling village of Lahaina is a quick drive from Kaanapali, just 15 minutes hugging the coast. Shop along its charming and historic streets for souvenirs, fine arts and local crafts, explore the volcanic rock cannon ramparts and old courthouse, or rest under the shade of its ginormous 150-year-old banyan tree.

Need refreshments? Dip into Tommy Bahama’s Restaurant and Bar for happy hour noshing and concoctions including one of the best mai tais you’ll find on the island.

You can also catch the Hawaiian green sea turtles from mid-April through early fall. They’ll be floating, feeding, laying eggs and nesting nearby. During one seaside brunch at Lahaina’s Māla Tavern, the conversation was silenced for a solid hour, with our group completely mesmerized by giant sea turtles, bobbing along the black volcanic rocks.

Fifteen minutes in the opposite direction from Kaanapali is Kapalua, with its Ritz Carlton resort, lush Kapalua Golf Course, and its famous Plantation House restaurant with unforgettable views. This is an excellent stop for a lazy brunch.

With Maui’s temperatures remaining largely constant year-round, from lows in the mid-60s to highs in the mid-80s, you can see why any season can be right season for a trip to Maui.

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