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Houston Touted as Food Lover’s Paradise by Storied Yankee Newspaper

The Boston Globe Just Can't Get Enough of H-Town

BY // 03.17.19

Another day, another vaunted publication touting Houston as a true foodie mecca. This time around, Space City’s garnering praise from yet another Yankee paper —The Boston Globe.

In a story headlined “Houston is a Food Lover’s Paradise,” writer Michael Andor Brodeur takes readers on a tasty tour through the Bayou City, chowing down on everything from tacos to pho, from Tex-Mex to Soul Food, from Vietnamese to Salvadoran.

On this culinary adventure, Brodeur hits the highlights, from top-tier, refined restaurants such as Xochi, Theodore Rex and UB Preserv, to the equally as well-known but more casual spots Crawfish & Noodles, Mai’s and Les Givral’s.

The Texan by choice — his wife is from the Lone Star State — also takes a trip to some spots that are a little more hidden and less likely to make headlines, such as La Guadalupana Bakery and Cafe, Taqueria Las Glorias and Golden Seafood.

We’ve got just one quibble with the Boston Globe‘s take. Houston decidedly does not have one of the most “undiscovered food cultures in the country.” The city’s foodie star status is quite clear, and has been for a while.

A Yankee Eye Opener

As with many Yankees covering the Houston food scene, this writer’s experience was something of an eye-opener, a regular old jaw-dropper. Out with the outdated notions of Houston and hallmarks such as “heat, humidity and Halliburton,” and into the belly.

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Brodeur tucks in to enjoy the best Texas has to offer, but takes some much-needed palate-cleansing pitstops here and there. He’s sure to include cultural hotspots, with art breaks to destinations like the Menil Collection, Rothko Chapel, James Turrell’s Twilight Epiphany Skyspace and the Houston Grand Opera.

The Boston Globe love all begins with nods to the intersection of Gulf seafood and Texas produce and a dizzying array of cultures leading to a literal melting pot.

Brodeur begins, as one does, with top-notch boudin kolaches for breakfast at Montrose corner shop Christy’s. While in the area, the logical next stop for Brodeur was Baby Barnaby’s for incredible migas, or La Guadalupana for its outstanding chilaquiles.

In his opinion, Sunday brunch calls for Hugo’s — and he mentions Ortega’s other hits, Backstreet Cafe, Caracol and Xochi, too.

The most important meal of the day could also be taken in gladly at The Breakfast Klub, if you’re feeling like “katfish & grits,” he notes.

For Tex-Mex galore, his picks are The Original Ninfa’s on Navigation, the Pollos y Carnes Asadas El Norteno bus and Taqueria Las Glorias. For Salvadoran flavors, it’s squarely pupusas at Cocina Latina Pupusa Buffet.

Vieng Thai earns a shout out for “curries in a hurry.” Korean Garden gets a nod for its spicy stews and kimchi pancakes. Les Givral shines for its crunchy charred BBQ pork bahn mi.

No list would be complete without shining barbecue examples, including The Pit Room and Goode Company Barbecue (OK, maybe The Boston Globe needs to expand its barbecue game).

The Globe does recognize Houston cult classics such as Turkey Leg Hut — with the customary celebrity mention of James Harden and Snoop Dogg — and Frenchy’s. Brodeur doesn’t seem to know about Frenchy’s relocation, but that’s all right. He’s not a legit Houstonian, after all.

Crawfish & Noodles, “the unofficial heart of Houston’s vibrant Viet-Cajun scene” definitely got noticed. As did Connie’s Seafood on Airline.

Then, the all stars: Nancy’s Hustle, Theodore Rex, UB Preserv, Himalaya. No surprises there.

The Boston Globe finishes it all off with some suggestions for an extended visit — as though the bulk of this appetizing article wasn’t enough. Its foodie recommends the 7th Annual Houston Barbecue Festival, the Houston Crawfish, Crab & Grill festival and the Pasadena Strawberry Festival, keeping things interesting.

Houston, we don’t have a problem — we have another convert.

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