Revisiting an Iconic Dallas Steakhouse and Finding the Classics Still Matter — Lobster Thermidor and Easy Charm at Al Biernat’s

It’s wonderful rediscovering favorite restaurants from your past and realizing that they are just as good as ever. That was the case when I recently had dinner at Al Biernat’s.

When I first moved to Dallas in late 2005, I probably went a couple of times a year with friends (for either lunch or dinner) to Al Biernat’s. I’m referring to the original location of course on Oaklawn (a second outpost on Spring Valley Road, aptly named Al Biernat’s North opened in 2017).

Perhaps one of the reasons why it had fallen off of my radar was on previous visits I was dining on an expense account or on someone else’s expense account. It seemed like a special occasion type restaurant or somewhere that was excusable as a charge on your corporate credit card. However, on this recent visit after perusing the menu and prices it really seems to be the type of place that would be ideal for a regularly occurring night out on the town. The sommelier also shared with us some of the many options for wines that were quite reasonable as well as some happy hour specials.

In July 2018 the veritable institutions celebrated its 20th anniversary. Around the same time as the celebrations that ensued, Al Biernat’s signed another nine-year lease so there are no plans to close anytime soon. And why would they? Al Biernat’s has received much deserved praise from critics and countless awards including recently earning a spot on Open Table’s 100 Best Restaurants in America for a Big Night Out (2019).

Al Biernat got his start working for the Palm Restaurant and made it a success when it opened in Dallas. After asking those friends if he had their blessing to open his own restaurant, he launched his namesake restaurant on Oaklawn Avenue. When reflecting on the time since that opening he reflects: “What has not changed over the past 21 years is that our customers have always demanded the best quality of products in food and wine. They are well traveled and because of this, very knowledgeable.

“What I have noticed is a newfound awareness in where their food comes from. They are educating themselves and asking questions about pesticides in their foods, antibiotics in their meats, free-ranging, humane treatment of animals, and a healthier way of eating in general. At Al Biernat’s we strive to give our customers what they desire.”

On this recent Saturday night, it was a packed house. The crowd seemed equal parts couples on a date and some groups — we did take great fun in observing a group of twentysomething guys (perhaps seniors at SMU) breeze in for red wine and steaks in what seemed to be half an hour. Everyone that evening, including those boys, seemed dressed-up, but not in a pretentious way.

I must give a special mention to the decor and lighting. It’s warm and inviting and not glitzy in the way that many steakhouses have gone in the past decade. Wooden screens are used throughout the room to create intimate environments (for perhaps those couples on dates). The overall decor is rounded out with homey terrazzo tiled floors and a dramatic barrel vault ceiling. That night we were seated in a cozy banquette with a view of the fasted paced action in the kitchen.

The lighting is ideal as it seemed to take 10 years off of everyone’s age. Who doesn’t love that? I need to remember to share this place with a dear girlfriend who is often quick to point out if a place looks “lit for surgery.”

Al Biernat’s Food Still Stands Up

First off, when I go to a tasting I normally order quite a few items from the menu so most of the other diners nearby look at me as the embodiment of gluttony (actually, my very favorite of the seven deadly sins). To start we were sent the escargot, rabbit sausage and tartare. All excellent, but the escargot was definitely my favorite as the saltiness mixed with the rich brandy-roasted garlic butter seemed the ideal way to get my taste palette ready for the courses ahead. It was served with tortellini which was the ideal companion for the snails. I did enjoy making little burritos from the rabbit sausage as they gave it a “comfort food” type of feel.

From those appetizers, we went on to share Al’s Salad. This was an incredibly light and wonderful intermission between the starters and the main course. I’d recommend the garlic vinaigrette over the Russian dressing if you want to keep it light. Of particular note in terms of unexpected flavor and texture for the salad were the ingredients hearts of palm and green beans.

Our main courses for the night were the filet mignon and lobster thermidor. What can I say about the steak besides Al Biernat’s knows its meat? The tenderness and juiciness were beyond words and we knew we were in for an exceptional treat given the aroma from the dish when it was placed in front of us. Paired with the Flowers Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast it was a carnivore’s heaven.

When my lobster thermidor was delivered it seemed quite daunting. Like a mountain who’s summit I would likely not reach. In fact, a group of ladies, dressed for what seemed like a “girls-night-out” even stopped and giggled when they saw the massive platter in front of me. When I questioned our charming waiter, he did share that often couples will share this dish. But at the same time, he had even seen a teenaged girl finish one all on her own.

“I guess it depends on how hungry you are” he commented with a wink and a grin.

For those unfamiliar with this decadent dish cooked pieces of lobster are mixed into a rich béchamel or heavy cream-based sauce. All of this complemented with mustard, white wine, shallots, tarragon, lobster stock and cheese, such as Gruyere or Parmesan. The mixture is then put back in the shell and topped with perhaps more cheese or truffles and then baked to a golden brown.

There are different opinions on how the dish got its name, but I prefer the one in which Napoleon named it for the month in which he first had the hearty meal: the month of Thermidor, which was July 19 to August 17 (during the French Revolutionary calendar). My lobster thermidor was everything I wanted and oh-so more. In fact, half of it came home with me in a little doggy bag (which I think my pup would’ve liked, but I enjoyed it so much for lunch the next day — I must say, was just as delicious 12 hours later).

Dinner at Al Biernats perhaps is best summed up as a meal with a longtime friend. One who you might only see occasionally, but one who always seems to offer a warm embrace and some enchanting conversation. And of course, we can’t forget — some intriguing wine perfect for a night of catching-up.

Al Biernats, 4217 Oak Lawn Ave, Dallas, albiernats.com