Dallas’ Own Version of the New York Neighborhood Bar Thrives in an Overlooked Neighborhood

If you’ve been to the legendary Odeon in lower Manhattan (a longtime neighborhood bistro and bar as famous for its food as for the chic community), you’ll understand what restauranteur and chef Greg Katz is going for with Beverley’s — a newish bistro and bar on Fitzhugh Avenue, a Dallas neighborhood that, until now, has lacked any sort of proper dining establishment.

The vibe inside Beverley’s on a bustling Tuesday night is quintessential New York: loud and packed to the brim with stylish types of all ages. Most of the people, it’s fair to assume, live in neighborhood and, like us, walked here in search of a midweek cocktail and bite.

Unlike most restaurants in town that call themselves a neighborhood bistro, Beverley’s — from fare to design — feels authentic to the neighborhood. Bistro tables anchor the restaurant, surrounded by large leather banquettes, with a pale marble bar up front. The mosaic-tile floor recalls old-school, big-city watering holes, but the wood finishes in a gray-blue hue and the deco-style light fixtures elevate the ambiance.

Katz perfected the menu after years of working in the restaurant biz, from Balthazar and Il Mulino in New York to Sassetta and Wheelhouse in Dallas. For his first solo project, he wanted to make sure the seasonal offerings matched the restaurant’s neighborhood-eatery vibe.

The restaurant is, after all, named for his mother. Call it elevated comfort food — the type of menu where you don’t have to think too hard.

On our first visit, we ordered a host of appetizers to share, from oysters on the half shell to steak tartare, caviar and latkes, and smoked trout dip. While we intended to stop after shared bites, we couldn’t resist ordering entrées. The burger, served with perfectly executed fries, is perhaps one of the best I’ve had in Dallas recently, and the schnitzel reminded me of the beloved recipe my mother and German grandmother have made since childhood.

What Katz has achieved in Beverley’s is rare in Dallas – for the ease of its location, the effortlessness of the menu, and the lively atmosphere. This is the kind of restaurant that already feels like it’s been in the neighborhood forever.

Beverley’s Bistro & Bar, 3215 N. Fitzhugh Ave., 214.915.8840, beverleysdallas.com.