Houston’s Tex-Mex and Barbecue Restaurant Proves to be a Worthy Montrose Mashup

Your First Taste Look at Candente

By Laurann Claridge // Jan 30, 2020

Photography Shannon O'Hara

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Candente blends Tex-Mex tradition with barbecue greatness.

It’s surprising that the idea of cross-pollinating Southern smoked barbecue-style meats with Mexican flavors hasn’t been more pervasive in Texas. But the spicy, smoky, meat-focused trend is certainly picking up heat. Innovative restaurant owner Michael Sambrooks jumped on board when the opportunity arose to open a new concept near his popular barbecue joint The Pit Room in the Montrose area.

Granted, from all appearances, Candente resembles other Tex-Mex restaurants that dot Houston, from the piped-in mariachi music to the colorful floor-to-ceiling Day of the Dead mural. But inside the open kitchen, the custom Josper oven is connected to a wood-burning grill — and on the menu, two beloved Texas cuisines meld on one cohesive menu.

Here, the nachos are topped with a half-pound of smoked brisket, refried beans, cheddar cheese, pickled red onion, barbecue sauce, cilantro, crema and salsa roja ($20). The requisite guacamole is heaped atop shredded iceberg lettuce with a side of garlic, jalapeño, onion and tomato to adjust the seasoning to your taste ($12.50).

Don’t miss the spicy ceviches, available as a trio that includes campechana with layers of smoked mussels, shrimp, octopus and avocado in a piquant Mexican cocktail sauce ($18). Each ceviche comes with a side of diced peppers or hot pepper sauce to inch up the heat index. The chicken flauta also gets a whiff of the mesquite ($12), and The Tampiqueña tops a nine-ounce Niman Ranch prime-grade ribeye with two gooey cheese enchiladas (the depth of the gravy alone could sell this dish) and grilled onions sizzling in chile lime butter ($37).

Candente (Photo by Shannon O'Hara) — Candente brings barbecue and Tex-Mex together in Houston. (Photo by Shannon O’Hara)

Behind the bar, beverage director David Maness uses 100 percent agave Espolon tequila as the base for his margaritas, which he edges with sea salt. He offers a fun take on grapefruit juice-tinged Paloma with a splash of Aperol, while dark rum tops the piña colada for a warming feel. End your meal with a spoonful of comp soft-serve ice cream to quell the fire within.

Candente is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, with happy hour running Monday through Friday.