Legendary New York Restaurant Offshoot Finally Opens in Dallas, Bringing Glamour and Warmth: Under the Foodie Big Top — Your First Look at Circo

“I like simple food, seasoned with just salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar. Complicated food and complicated lives never matter.” Sage words spoken by one of the greatest restauranteurs of the 20th century — Sirio Maccioni.

The man behind New York’s famed Le Cirque. Maccioni opened his first offshoot Circo in Manhattan in 1996 (I happened to be at that opening party since I was living there and attempting graduate school).

From an Ancestry.com perspective, the Circo empire, a direct descendant of Le Cirque, has expanded to include outposts in Dubai and Las Vegas. For those of us Dallas folks wanting a little glamour for dinner or cocktails, we now have our own, conveniently located in Uptown. Featuring Italian coastal cuisine, a member day club with two pools, spa services, and a lounge intended for work or socializing.

As you can imagine, with the name “Circo,” the restaurants were originally conceived around a circus theme. Interiors had big top accents with animal motifs abounding. Some of that remains at the Dallas restaurant with its whimsical monkey chandeliers and a happy hour playfully named “Monkey Hour.”

Barbara Adelglass is the ringmaster behind Circo. She and husband Jeffrey, who live around the corner in the Ritz-Carlton Residences, wanted a spot in their neighborhood to dine and entertain their many friends so they decided to open the restaurant.

Adelglass’s infectious exuberance feels like the warm embrace that can only be provided by a distant cousin from the Northeast. She loves gorgeous things, but unlike me, she is not label obsessed. Yes, on a recent lunch together to discuss Circo she had on drool-worthy Chanel, but she also often hires up-and-coming local designers to conjure up a frock for a charity gala.

She is the epitome of “authentic.” That word carries less power than it used to and I very rarely use it — but she is the definition of authentic. You feel no ulterior motives or a façade of any kind in her presence. Warm and decadent as a Brunello Cucinelli blanket and savvy as only one who has lived in Manhattan can be — a straight shooter who also has an innate curiosity and fascination with life resembling that of a school girl.

Plan to be greeted at the door and most importantly, she will remember your name if you are a returning diner.

Circo is a make-no-apologies glamorous restaurant. It’s not dark and somber and is either the perfect place to have a sparkling birthday dinner (call it Turning 30 Part 3) or to celebrate making partner in your law firm. It caters to those who live in a moneyed ecosystem, but without an affected, pedigreed snobbery.

Adelglass hopes the experience will be classic Italian with a modern finish. We both agreed — a millennial era version of Sophia Loren.

Under the Sea

On my recent visit to Circo, I had wanted a true seafood experience. I know Red Lobster “sees food differently,” but I wanted the highest caliber treasures from the sea. A glorious “Royal Platter” arrived with an assortment of lobster, prawns, oysters, crab and tuna poke.

OK, you had me at shellfish. They are my jewels of the sea: oysters, of course, my pearls, crab as exotic as jade and lobster as shining diamonds. Being in land-locked Dallas, it’s hard to imagine finding such fresh offerings which have no need for seasoning. The “salt of the sea” was enough to provide a layering of natural flavors to the options found on my plat de mer.

Our knowledgeable server, RJ, walked us through the other offerings on the menu and provided insights. He was attentive to our every need but never in a hovering and effusive manner. We then had the opportunity to chat with Circo sommelier Aaron Benson, who made suggestions for our various courses. He shared some fascinating facts around a certain region, so that “geek factor” led me to a few glasses of Pietradolce Etna Rosso from Sicily, Italy.

Executive chef Eddie Barron has a wisdom in the kitchen that belies his twentysomething years on this planet. When he came to visit us at our table, I was surprised that this charming man had previous stints behind-the-scenes at Bullion and Lonesome Dove. So much experience at such a young age.

The delicacies he sent out to taste included a mushroom risotto generously garnished with the most decadent of truffles and a squid colored pasta that melted in my mouth. The ending to our evening came in the form of rich beyond words crème brulee.

Make your way to the new big top in Uptown and be sure to meet Barbara while you are dining.

Circo, 2619 McKinney Avenue, Dallas, 469-440-8843, circotx.com.