Fort Worth’s Buzzy New American Restaurant Duchess Announces Marcus Kopplin as Executive Chef

When Chef Casey Thompson’s name was first announced in association with The Nobleman Hotel’s new restaurant last winter, it was clear that Duchess aimed to be a top-tier North Texas restaurant. The Top Chef alum and Michelin Bib Gourmand recipient is still fondly remembered for her culinary creations at now-shuttered Brownstone.

The recent announcement of Marcus Kopplin as executive chef of Duchess and Thompson as consultant was always part of the plan, Kopplin tells PaperCity Fort Worth. Kopplin, the former executive chef at Clay Pigeon, says he maintains daily contact with Thompson to discuss new menu concepts.

The menu at Duchess sources ingredients almost exclusively from the Lone Star State, a commitment that leads to higher quality ingredients and a culinary spread that proudly reflects what our state has to offer, Kopplin adds. The new executive chef says the menu will change four times a year to reflect the natural growing seasons of Texas fruits and vegetables.

Duchess is a “very seasonal restaurant,” he says. “We work with a co-op called Farm to Table. They go to local farms in Marfa, down in the Texas Hill Country, and elsewhere, where they pick the items that they want and take them to us. This approach means we know where the produce comes from and the stories behind the food. We are trying to use the community and give back.”

A First Taste of Duchess

On a recent visit to The Nobleman‘s signature restaurant, we sampled several of Kopplin’s dishes that stay true to Thompson’s original concept. First up was the fried burrata, encased in a delicate golden crust with a luxuriously soft center. The creamy cheese paired beautifully with the silken tomato butter, while a charred lemon and green olive relish added lovely complexity to the dish that was topped with grated Parmesan and fresh chives.

Next came the Gulf snapper crudo, a beautifully delicate presentation of raw snapper in a pool of spicy lemon dressing and Texas olive oil. Each slice of fish was soft and fresh, balanced by the crunch and depth of crispy red onion. Fresh basil leaves added a peppery brightness, topping off a delightful showcase of seasonal Gulf flavors. Kopplin’s four years as head chef at Shinjuku Station shine through with this sublime dish.

The Lucky Pig offered a festive, build-your-own taco experience centered on salt-brined, braised pork belly. Accompaniments included crispy chicharrón, spiced peanuts, pickled red onion and peppers, shredded Romaine, fresh cilantro, and lime wedges. Thick, housemade tortillas held the hearty and flavorful ingredients together.

Kopplin’s Vision for Fort Worth’s Duchess

Kopplin brings a vast and varied history as a chef, including such lauded (and missed) restaurants as Shinjuku Station and Cannon Chinese Kitchen. In the thick of the pandemic, he was tasked with reopening Clay Pigeon, an executive chef role that he cites as a great learning experience.

“They had an opening menu, but [the owner] let me come into my own and showcase what I could do,” Kopplin says. “I was doing the wine dinners and banqueting events there. They let me come into who I am today by honing down pastas, butchering meats, and smoking meats. It was an amazing experience.”

After helping executive chef Preston Paine open Emilia’s at the Crescent Hotel, Kopplin briefly worked in Dallas before reaching out to Thompson about joining the culinary team at Duchess.

“I had always wanted to work at Brownstone with Thompson,” he says, reflecting on an opportunity to collaborate with the celebrity chef that didn’t come together until recently. Kopplin says his goal is to see Duchess awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand in the coming years and, eventually, a Michelin star. The Duchess team already has plans to partner with local Near Southside businesses like Panther City Barbecue and others, he added.

“We definitely want to be one of those top restaurants in the community,” he says. “We want to be known as a place where you can get a three-course meal for a decent price and have a great experience.”