New Houston Restaurant Brings an Astrodome Replica and Major Chef Buzz to the Energy Corridor — Inside Kirkwood

Utter the name “Mac Haik,” and the first thing that comes to mind for many Houstonians are the myriad auto dealerships dotted across Texas that bear that name in neon lights. Few of us, particularly those whose years are less seasoned, realize that not only is Mac Haik Automotive Group the largest independent automotive group in Texas, but it’s named for its founder Joseph Michael Haik, a former Houston Oilers receiver of Lebanese descent who caught 76 passes and nine touchdowns over his four seasons with the team.

Haik has the distinction of catching the first touchdown pass in Astrodome history, the very first ever recorded in an indoor stadium.

But he 80-year-old entrepreneur isn’t quite done yet with pushing for more. He’s just hit another milestone in his lengthy career, opening his very first restaurant dubbed Kirkwood, impressing upon it his own distinct imprimatur. It is named for the exit that leads you to the new Houston restaurant’s location on the first floor of Energy Tower II (11720 Katy Freeway). Situated among three gleaming mid-rise office buildings in MHE’s Energy Plaza campus at North Kirkwood Road, the business district and surrounding Memorial neighborhood where Haik and his wife Sunny have made their home is close by.

While Haik has invested in other restaurants over the years, for his signature restaurant Kirkwood, he has enlisted the talents of executive chef Steven Chiang. Chiang’s CV lists time spent at Per Se, The NoMad and Del Posto in New York, as well as since closed Houston restaurant UB Preserv and The Blind Goat, which moved to Spring Branch.

At Kirkwood, Chiang looks back on some timeless classic dishes and gives them a stylish twist to create a menu that feels thoroughly modern.

Nearly three years in the planning, Haik aimed to instill a country club-like air where diners are referred to as members. To make diners feel cosseted, the design minds at Gin Design Group transformed the nearly 7,000-square-foot Kirkwood space inside with open sight lines and layered textures. That means plush velvets blanketing the elevated U-shaped booths, rich walnut and burled woods with gleaming copper accent and even custom leather bar stools inspired by the seats of Haik’s vintage Porsche.

There is a thoughtfulness carried out in every inch of the 242-seat space. Look up as you enter, and you’re met with a striking replica of the Astrodome, along with pieces from Haik’s art collection with work from English artist Paul Dove and a custom work from Austin painter Lucy MacQueen.

Diving Into the Kirkwood Menu

Meanwhile, back behind the range, Chiang and his crew opened serving lunch and dinner with a few dishes making an appearance on each menu. You will find appealing starters such as cacio e pepe frittantini, that cheesy black pepper laced pasta made here with bucatini noodles transformed into crisp fritters with a tomato vodka dipping sauce ($15), on the dinner menu. Chiang’s take on the French classic — beef tartare, hand-chopped with egg yolk and its customary mix-ins, as well a side of Dijonnaise and grilled focaccia toast points ($20) — also beckons.

The  swashbucklers in the room will want to consider the osetra caviar service ($120) where humble hashbrown coins along with deviled quail eggs are the carriers of golden beads of caviar from plate to palate.

Moving onto the mains, the custom Chateaubriand carts dazzle as they roll about the room, bringing center-cut USDA prime McClaren Farms tenderloin, perfectly pink throughout, prepared sous vide, seared and butter-basted before it’s sliced and plated with your choice of two sauces and sides ($160). The Duroc bone-in chop, beautifully marbled American-bred pork known for its tender bite, is brushed with a spiced honey glaze and a mustard caraway jus ($45). Pasta made in-house includes a truffle-scented ravioli stuffed with four cheeses, enrobed with a parmesan cream sauce.

If tableside service appeals to you, hail the beverage trolley, yet another clever custom touch at Kirkwood with seasonal cocktails, including the gin-based drink, “the petal pusher pour-over,” are dispensed. Or select one of the barrel-aged cocktails such as the Kirkwood old fashioned with beef tallow-infused Woodford Reserve, an array of beers or wine by the bottle or glass in a list dominated by domestically produced selections with a smattering of those from France and South America.

Kirkwood is located at 11720 Katy Freeway. The restaurant is open 11 am to 9 pm Sundays through Thursdays, and 11 am to 10 pm Fridays and Saturdays. For more information or reservations, go here.