A Lovers Retreat

When I discovered Aaron Staudenmaier would be executive chef at newly opened Lovers Seafood and Market, I knew the menu was going to be packed with fantastic flavor. (I previously tried his food on a visit to Fredericksburg’s Boot Ranch, where Staudenmaier had commanded the kitchen since 2012.)

The seafood restaurant, a concept from Shinsei creators Tracy Rathbun and Lynae Fearing, takes over the former Rex’s space at Inwood & Lovers but delivers a more upscale twist on classic coastal fare with dishes such as Thai-style mussels and clams, cajun-fried oysters, a crispy calamari calabrese salad, and a Po’boy made with oysters, shrimp, or catfish.

There’s also a $26 shellfish slaw (lobster, shrimp, and crab with lime dressing) and a $29 lobster roll, offered three ways: Maine style (chilled mayo, tarragon, scallions); Connecticut style (warm butter, lemon zest); or Dynamite style (charred with sriracha mayo).

PC tip: The sides are not to be missed. We’re not ashamed to admit we scarfed down the mac & cheese, grits, and charred broccoli drizzled in Cajun ranch.

Lovers Seafood’s 3,000-square-foot dining room seats 79, or you can grab a spot at the raw bar for plates of oysters and a glass of rosé.

Lovers Seafood & Market, 5200 W. Lovers Lane, 214.414.9880.