PaperCity Exclusive — Old School Fort Worth Pancake House Expands, Spreading its Ol’ South German Charm

David Benson and his sister Betty Brozgold launched a Fort Worth institution in 1962 ― Ol’ South Pancake House. Rex Benson now carries on the tradition from his late father and is the sole owner of the dynasty, keeping the 58 year old business all in the family.

Ol’ South Pancake House vacated its original location, (where Romano’s Macaroni Grill now stands), and shifted just next door in 1973 to 1509 S. University Drive.

The business is not only surviving the coronavirus pandemic, it’s expanding once again. From the 1970s to the 1990s, Ol’ South grew to five locations before it scaled back to just the University Drive original.

Benson has been hoping to expand the business again for several years. He’s now found just the right location to do it ― in Burleson. The construction of the new spot (which begun pre-coronavirus) is currently underway at 225 E. Renfro, Suite 101. That is near City Hall and just around the corner from Burleson’s popular Main Street venues.

“My father was very successful in expanding the business before his death, and we are excited to begin that process again,” Rex Benson tells PaperCity Fort Worth. “We are targeting a mid- to late-October opening.”

The exterior of the original University Street location matches its interior. It’s stuck in the fabulous time warp that I, like so many, remember from childhood. On Saturday morning, the line begins forming early on the weekends to get into Ol’ South Pancake House.

Those early Colonial, barrel-backed, wooden Captain’s chairs and faux wood laminate table tops (with a lot of their wood-tone veneer rubbed off) just scream vintage. The vinyl clad booths and brown carpet are both slightly sticky, but that only adds to the ambiance of this no fuss diner. Wood paneling and a few accordion doors round out the throwback decor.

This go-to late night hangout has hosted many after-parties. It’s a perennial TCU haunt. Ol’ South still sometimes runs 24 hours (currently only on the weekends) to accommodate the overly ambitious study group, or to sober up the mildly inebriated with a bottomless pot of coffee and some heavy carbs. It’s one of the only diners in Fort Worth still maintaining a 24-hour schedule.

The menu is a rife with Southern, homestyle cooking. From melty, deep-fried Monte Cristo sandwiches and Frog Fries topped with chili and cheese to Swedish Crepes with lingonberries, you’ll find it here.

By far Ol’ South’s biggest claim to fame is its German pancakes, and the pint-sized Dutch Baby version of the same recipe. German pancakes arrive with their signature eggy dough and crispy edges to be prepared tableside, like they always have been. Ample layers of butter, powdered sugar and fresh squeezed lemons are applied, before the pancake is folded, flipped and hash-marked with a knife, filling the plate with a puddle of the fresh lemony sauce. Getting hungry aren’t you?

Long before coronavirus hit, Ol’ South’s motto was, “When life gives you lemons, you make German pancakes.” Benson estimates serving well more than 40,000 German pancakes per year, and having 10 million customers in all since 1962.

But COVID-19 has hit the pancake business hard.

“We used to serve over 11,000 customers per week and our volume is down about 30 percent,” Benson says. “But, on the upside, we are all so thankful to see customers coming back that it has rejuvenated our customer service, like a breath of fresh air. Our staff are just so appreciative to them walking through the door.”

Although it is a brand new build, the Burleson Ol’ South Pancake will feel very familiar. “We’ve spent a lot of money trying to recreate the vibe ― adding plenty of wood paneling, carved spindles and our classic Captain’s chairs. You’ll get that diner feel without a doubt,” Benson says.

The (new) Ol’ South, will have a couple of unique additions. This includes a cool covered patio with seating for around 55, with heaters and misters for comfort. While the original Ol’ South can accommodate more than 300 customers, Burleson’s will have room for around 235 inside.

Another first for the pancake house and diner? The addition of alcohol. “We’ll serve Bloody Marys and mimosas for brunch, and have a selection of assorted margaritas, as well as beer and wine,” Benson notes.

Benson says he’s taking everything one day at a time in the current coronavirus climate, but notes, “We do plan to expand still further in the future.”

Currently Ol’ South’s hours are reduced on University. “We are running the hours of operation that we plan on opening with in Burleson,” Benson says.

That is Sundays through Wednesdays from 6 am to 10 pm, with Thursdays through Saturdays shifting to the traditional 24 hour service. German pancakes endure, through coronavirus and all.