Culture / Travel

An Insider’s Guide To California’s Most Charming Coastal Town — The Carmel-by-the-Sea You Need To Know

Top Hotel, Restaurant, Shopping, Wine and Under-the-Radar Picks

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Carmel-by-the-Sea certainly fits the notion of a scene “straight out of a movie.” This charming town nestled on the hills of Northern California’s Monterey County is a quaint coastal village that is ready for any camera moment. Every block seems impossibly picturesque, with flower-draped cottages, cute markets, windswept cypress trees and storybook architecture that could easily serve as the set of your favorite romantic comedy. 

For the dreamy escapist, Carmel offers a low key, high chic California vacation where the luxury is quiet, the history runs deep, the details are refined, and the entire town feels like something out of a postcard dream.

Best of all, for Texans looking to escape the Lone Star State’s oppressive summer (or early fall) heat, Carmel’s summer temperatures rarely rise out of the sixties, and the Pacific Ocean supplies a mist is as crisp as your favorite glass of chardonnay

North Texans are now spoiled with nonstop flights available from Dallas-Fort Worth International Airport to Monterey Regional Airport, which is a mere 10 minutes from Carmel’s downtown area. Houston travelers can get there on a one-stop flight, with easy connections through LAX or SFO setting up a relatively convenient trip to Monterey Regional Airport as well. 

But where should you stay, dine and play? This is your whimsical under-the-radar hotel, restaurant, shopping and activity guide to Carmel-by-the-Sea.

Carmel-by-the-Sea Hotels

Le Petit Pali on 8th

This outpost of boutique hotel group Palisociety offers stylish California charm. Each of the 34 guest rooms is outfitted with coastal cool furniture and vintage artwork, all wrapped around a flower-filled patio. Look for thoughtful touches that include a curated mini bar and a complimentary breakfast spread laid out by a crackling fireplace. 

093 Marc&Rose_LaPlayaHotel_10406 (Photo by Chris Mottalini)
Bedroom at La Playa Hotel (Photo by Chris Mottalini)

La Playa

Those craving something classic should definitely consider La Playa Carmel, a 1905 mansion turned hotel tucked just blocks from the beach. Once the home of a Ghirardelli chocolate heiress, this Spanish-style estate oozes old world glamour, from its manicured gardens to its iconic bar Bud’s.

L’Auberge Carmel

The 20 room Relais & Châteaux hotel is the epitome of cozy European sophistication. Its antique details — think tufted canopy bed frames, French doors and hand-hammered copper sinks — complement the modern luxuries. That means doting service and Aubergine, a two Michelin-starred restaurant. 

If time allows, you will want to extend your trip beyond Carmel-by-the-Sea with a scenic drive south to Big Sur. That is where the Post Ranch Inn  beckons with clifftop luxury and unobstructed ocean views. Or head just down the road to the dreamy Pebble Beach resorts and golf wonderland. 

10_Menu_Chez Noir_credit-Joseph Weaver
Locally caught seafood and verdant, fresh vegetables showcase the fresh, refined flavors that earned Chez Noir its Michelin star. (Photo by Joseph Weaver)

Carmel-By-the-Sea Restaurants

Carmel’s food scene is far more advanced than its quaint appearance lets on. Fine dining restaurants abound. Both Aubergine, tucked inside the intimate L’Auberge Carmel, and the nearby Chez Noir offer innovative tasting menus that draw on local foraging, fresh-caught seafood and seasonal California produce. These Carmel restaurants have earned their Michelin stars. 

For something a bit more laid back but no less food worthy, La Bicyclette offers rustic, wood-fired French food in a cozy European setting. Stationæry, hidden behind a courtyard off Dolores Street, is a favorite for its artful approach to breakfast and lunch.

More casual, cozy restaurants in Carmel-by-the-Sea include Casanova. This romantic standby housed in a converted cottage serves up French-Italian comfort food and boasts a wine list with more than 2,000 bottles. Just across the way, Nielsen Brothers Market, a gourmet deli and wine shop that opened in 1951, is ideal for picnic provisions or a delicious sandwich between shopping stops.

Sweet cravings are rewarded on nearly every corner from the iconic Carmel Bakery, open since 1899, with its gingerbread cookies and apple strudel, to the endless array of chocolate and ice cream shops that dot Ocean Avenue.

For a proper nightcap, former Carmel mayor Clint Eastwood’s iconic Hog’s Breath Inn still pours a good stiff drink in its ivy-covered courtyard. And those in the know gather at Brophy’s Tavern, a neighborhood favorite with a classic pub feel.

Photo: Michael Troutman/www.dmtimaging.com
Its worth venturing outside of Carmel-by-the-Sea to explore the other charming seaside pockets of the area, like Fisherman’s Wharf. (Photo by Michael Troutman/www.dmtimaging.com)

California Monterey County’s Best Activities

Carmel’s greatest perk is the fun found in wandering. Take a long walk or bike ride along Scenic Road or take a seat on the sand at Carmel Beach and watch the waves. Peruse the rows of darling shops and fine art galleries.

As for the shopping? Hit the stylish Girl Boy Girl  for women’s clothing and accessories, The Pajama Store for indulgent sleepwear and ThinkerToys for the little ones in your life.

For adventurers who need more action, Monterey County’s many pockets of nature and culture should not be missed.

Soak in the awe inspiring cliff-lined oceanfront of the area with a trip to Point Lobos State Natural Reserve, a coastal preserve just south of town with dramatic cliffs, hidden coves and trails that snake around. This is where you can spot sea lions and seals without ever leaving the land.

Wine aficionados can sample local vintages at the plentiful walk-in tasting rooms scattered around Carmel. Scheid Vineyards and Caraccioli Cellars offer delicious sips of the region.

Photo: Michael Troutman/www.dmtimaging.com
Its worth venturing outside of Carmel-by-the-Sea to explore the other charming seaside pockets of the area, like Fisherman’s Wharf Monterey. (Photo by Michael Troutman/www.dmtimaging.com)

Beyond Carmel-by-the-Sea, several other enticing pockets within Monterey County are worth visiting. The Fisherman’s Wharf Monterey (not to be confused with the tourist trap in San Francisco) is a must for seaside kitsch and real seafood dives. Then there’s Cannery Row, a transformed fish cannery turned cute shopping street near the famous Monterey Bay Aquarium, which remains one of the best in the world.

In the cute bungalow-lined Pacific Gove, restaurants such as Passionfish, nationally known for its sustainable seafood program and slightly above cost wine prices and Fandango, a beloved art-filled bistro are a reason to get out and explore.

Like your favorite moive, your trip to this coastal slice of California paradise will no doubt stick in your memory. If you vacation right.

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