Houston’s Risotto King

This Top Restaurant Does It Best —

By James Brock // Feb 29, 2016

This is no ordinary risotto ...

Risotto, done well, is a thing of beauty. Whether you prefer yours with nothing other than Parmigiano-Reggiano added, or like it served with a nice piece of seared foie gras on top, it makes a great middle course (just don’t order it and pasta at the same meal).

Depending on the season, I make risotto with mushrooms, asparagus, or corn, and then there’s seafood risotto. All good. From time to time, I also order risotto in restaurants, but, unfortunately, it seems that many places don’t know how to cook it.

It often comes to the table too dry, or overcooked — the grains should be al dente, and the dish as a whole should be creamy, or all’onda. And no clumps. Each grain should be separate and distinct.

A few days ago I was dining at Tony’s and had a course of risotto that was done perfectly. Not only that, but it was Acquerello risotto, and had been aged for one year after harvesting. My dining companion ordered his with seared foie gras on top, and black truffles were shaved over mine. Both were hot and creamy and rich and decadent. There were no clumps, and their textures were wavy. It was one of the best risottos I’ve had in a restaurant in a long time.

Contrary to what many think, it is not difficult to prepare this dish. Yes, it requires a bit of attention, and the stock you use is important to the whole, but if you can chop an onion and have nothing more than a small amount of patience, you can make a good risotto in your kitchen. Let me know what you like in yours in the comments section.