A First Taste of Bocca Osteria Romana — Fort Worth’s New Authentic Italian Restaurant From San Juan

Tucked down an alleyway just off South Main Street, you’ll find a new Italian eatery called Bocca Osteria Romana inside the former Rancho Loma Vineyards space. It’s an authentic Italian restaurant with a one-page menu and a lot of local buzz.

Bocca Osteria Romana comes from San Juan, Puerto Rico, where Salvatore Hospitality Group planted the original location, founded by Alessandro Salvatore. The group also has other concepts, including Acapulco Taqueria Mexicana and a taco and mezcal spot ― Lupe Reyes.

The Fort Worth iteration of this new Italian restaurant takes up residence in the same building that once housed Tre Mogli until it suddenly shuttered nearly a year ago. Not a lot has changed, the same brick-walled patio of the former wine bar that opened just before Covid closures greets visitors and affords a fantastic shoulder-season patio to new patrons. It’s the kind of place you might stumble across in any Roman neighborhood.

Inside, the snug space has lost its former u-shaped bar, as well as its private dining room, as the newly installed kitchen necessitated a bit more of the limited footprint to achieve. That’s what’s now behind those feature barn doors. The brick walls and concrete flooring resonate when Bocca is busy, and it’s been busy since it opened about three weeks ago.

Pro tip: reservations are a must on busy weekends, and arriving early is best ― as space is limited and the kitchen is tiny.

Bocca Osteria Romana is trying to catch up with demand, so be prepared for a very leisurely meal. Lastly, and most importantly ― Bocca is currently a bring-your-own wine affair, as the liquor license is still pending. Beyond that, your choice is still or sparkling water.

Simply Authentic Italian

There’s a lofty backstory on Salvatore Restaurant Group’s website of a statue in Rome called the Bocca della Verità. Generations of Romans have extended their hand into the gaping mouth of the statue, and legend has it that only truth-tellers will escape. But if a liar tempts fate by placing their hand in its mouth ― the statue’s jaws will clamp down, proving them untrustworthy.

“At Bocca Osteria Romana,” they say, “We offer a dining experience that is as honest and genuine as the city of Rome itself, ensuring that every guest is treated to the true taste of Italy.”

Delicate, hand-made plates of pasta, seasonal ingredients, and slow-simmered sauces and ragus don’t lie either. And that’s what you’ll find on the menu here.

A First Taste of Bocca Osteria Romana

We started our dinner with an order of Suppli Al Telefono ― two crispy tomato risotto logs, plated in a puddle of bright tomato sauce with fluffy pecorino Romano and a drizzle of fresh basil olive oil. Next, the La Stracciatella arrived like a vision. A large serving of seasonal bounty that made an end-of-summer statement. The Flor di Latte curds (a Southern Italian creamy cow’s milk cheese, not ricotta) formed the base. It was topped by wild rocket (arugula) heirloom baby tomatoes and sliced peaches. It was seasoned simply with sea salt and aged balsamic.

On our first trip to Bocca Osteria Romana, we filled up on antipasti and delicious primi (pasta) dishes. The carbonara is a chewy house-made spaghetti tossed with scant bacon and topped with cracked pepper. It gets its creaminess from egg yolk, with no cream added. And on the night we visited, the pappardelle Bolognese ran out and was substituted by rigatoni instead. No complaints here. The ragu has a hint of spice in its rich pork and beef ragu sauce.

The menu has two items in its secondi section: a saltimbocca chicken and an Ossobucco veal. Both looked legit as they passed by. But I’ll have to try those on my next trip, along with a dessert like tiramisu or fresh panna cotta flavored with honey and rosemary.