This Hidden Away West Gray Cafe Does the Best French Sandwich in Houston

It was many years ago in a little bistro in Paris that I tasted my first Croque Madame. I remember still the crisp and dense bread, the Dijon mustard, the ham and cheese, the Béchamel and Gruyère, the fried (softly) egg on top.

I know that I recall the way the knife’s (a Laguoile, no doubt) slice revealed the sandwich’s interior, all of its glistening, inviting goodness. I cut off a small piece, spread a dab of mustard on it, and ate.

I had, of course, consumed countless grilled cheese sandwiches in my life before that fateful afternoon, but this was different. I was hooked, and have ever since expected perfection (or something approaching the tastes and textures and flavors contained in that Croque Madame made in the Marais) when I order the French comfort food.

Alas, I have been disappointed many times, too often, and so I have a rule: Before I place my order, I find out what type of bread the restaurant uses to make their Croque Madame. If it resembles white Wonder Bread, I pass. If, however, the bread possesses a decent crust, and especially if it is a homemade sourdough (or another rich, robust type of bread), I’m in.

I place my order, and add a glass of wine to it. I then think back to my first Croque and hope for the best.

Several weeks ago, I paid a visit to Café Poêtes, a charming little cafe on West Gray Street in Houston, which opened in February. I had Croque Madame on my mind from the minute I stepped inside the space and took my seat at a small marble table.

I was there hoping to meet the owner, Karine Favre-Massartic, but our schedules didn’t sync, so instead was introduced to her husband, Marc Favre, a charming Frenchman.

“What type of bread do you use to make your Croque Madame,” I asked him. Without hesitation, he led me to the kitchen, where he showed me a healthy number of loaves just emerged from the oven. Pain de Mie, to be exact. (No, not the heartiest of breads, but the exteriors of the loaves looked satisfactory, and I was pleased).

Back at my table, I waited for the sandwich and enjoyed a glass of rosé (there is a small yet thoughtful list at the cafe) while I perused the menu, which features croissants, éclairs in abundance — including savory versions (chicken, salmon, etc )  — and quiche, among other items. When the Croque Madame arrived, I relaxed, because it looked good.

And it was good. Crisp, moist, full of cheese and ham (Mornay instead of Béchamel, but that difference did nothing to lower the quality of the whole). The egg was cooked to 64 degrees Celsius, and its yolk, when sliced, painted my sandwich beautifully.

The Gruyère was abundant and earthy, and the mustard and mayonnaise I added took me (almost) back to that Parisian bistro. I wanted more crust on the bread, but that’s my personal quibble.

You’ll like this Croque Madame. And if you are partial to whiling away the afternoon in a charming space, you’ll definitely like Café Poêtes.