Brand New Barbecue Spot on Outskirts of Fort Worth is Already Proving to be Worthy of a Little Trek — Goldee’s Comes Out Strong
Finding Great Barbecue — and Long Lines — in a Forgotten Part of TownBY Courtney Dabney // 03.05.20
Newcomer Goldee's Barbecue in Fort Worth tops Texas Monthly's list of the state's 50 best barbecue joints.
A tray brimming with Goldee's barbecue.
Rows of briskets smoking.
Slicing smoked and peppered turkey.
Goldee's sausage links and freshly baked white bread are among the dishes that sold Texas Monthly editors who ranked it number one in the state.
If you haven’t heard of Goldee’s Barbecue yet, you soon will. In fact, the upstart spot — which just opened two weeks ago in southeast Fort Worth, near the juncture of Everman and Kennedale — may soon be all you’re hearing about.
I’ll bet you a brisket slice to a burnt end that Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn will be paying Goldee’s a visit and giving its ‘cue a long, hard look for his next statewide rankings.
The new barbecue spot comes from three guys who’ve been friends since elementary school. Arlington-natives Lane Milne, Dylan Taylor and Jonny White have one major passion in common ― a shared love of Central Texas barbecue.
Over the past few years they have gained some valuable training as well as some serious craft ‘cue cred working at the likes of Franklin Barbecue, Truth BBQ and Terry Black’s Barbecue, just to name a few, before deciding the timing was right to stoke their own barbecue pits.
They named the operation Goldee’s in honor of an old Ford F-250 that used to haul their first barbecue pit. The trio added friends Jalen Heard and Nupohn Inthanousay to the mix, and Goldee’s Bar-B-Q began welcoming diners two weeks ago.
Located at 4645 Dick Price Road, on the outskirts of Fort Worth, it would be gracious to say it’s one of the most out-of-the-way places to set up a new business. There is next to nothing on this nearly deserted stretch of road that would lead anyone to believe barbecue greatness resides nearby. There are small pastures with a few head of cattle grazing in lonely fields, with a used car dealer and a gravel yard in one direction.
It’s funny how some of the best barbecue can pop up in the most unlikely places. Almost like the time Kevin Costner heard that distant voice whisper, “If you build it, they will come.”
Another outfit once called this remote outpost home. Kenneth’s Barbecue began smoking here more than 50 years ago. A single wide serves as the air-conditioned dining rom. Painted red, it has a little slant roof porch for shade. The smokehouse is the grey metal building nearby.
Meats are priced per half pound and you can fill a tray pretty quick with brisket, pork ribs, turkey or sausage (sold by the link). Basic sides of coleslaw, potato salad and pinto beans are available too, but Goldee’s fresh baked white bread and banana pudding really steal the show.
While plans originally called for Goldee’s to open last summer, the guys instead chose to take their time. Now they have a slick website, with professional photos and even the beginnings of some sellable merchandise with branded baseball caps and black tees. Goldee’s Bar-B-Q is currently open from 11 am to sellout Fridays through Sundays. Therefore, lining up early is mandatory.
And it is B.Y.O.B., or you can enjoy a free beer. Since they have no liquor license, Goldee’s Barbecue is giving beer away.
You can even enhance your proficiency on your own backyard smoker, by signing up for classes with the masters. Pitmaster Dylan Taylor offers one-on-one classes aimed to take you from novice to neighborhood hero. The classes include cooking brisket, pork spare ribs, turkey, beef ribs, or pulled pork, and Goldee’s even has lessons on making sausage.
You will spend the day going in-depth on fire maintenance, trimming, seasoning, resting and slicing. Classes are held Mondays and Tuesdays at the restaurant, where you will be trained on Dylan’s 1,000-gallon smoker.
This is a true barbecue haven — out here among the cows.