HiWay Cantina Brings More Tex-Mex Food and Drink Power to EaDo — Only Its Menu Is Very Chef Driven

After closing their ambitious restaurant Indianola this past summer, its owners Morgan Weber, chef Ryan Pera and Vincent Huynh of Agricole Hospitality have reimagined the space (care of some clever tweaks) to create HiWay Cantina, a Tex-Mex bar and grill. Situated at 1201 St. Emanuel in the rapidly changing EaDo (East Downtown) neighborhood that formerly was known as Houston’s first Chinatown, the trio quietly opened their first Tex-Mex restaurant shortly before Christmas.

The renovated space brings ample seating indoors and on an outdoor patio. It features a colorful mosaic bar with vintage bar stools pulled up to a solid zinc bar top. Decorated with vibrant and colorful lighting, bright blue-and-yellow checkered flooring underfoot and traditional Mexican art hung throughout the space, HiWay Cantina can seat 130 diners indoors and out, while the cozy bar seats 16.

“As we open our contribution to Houston’s Tex-Mex community, we are striving to be genuine, comfortable and exciting. HiWay Cantina’s food and drink menus have been approached with the curiosity, quality and care found in Agricole Hospitality’s sister concepts,” the Agricole Hospitality owners say in a combined statement. “We hope for it to become a welcoming space for locals and visitors alike to make their own tradition.”

Argicole’s Weber, Pera and Huynh also operate Vinny’s Pizza (just next door to HiWay Cantina), Lightnin’s Good Times (a bar just behind it that took over the former space of Miss Carousel) The Heights area’s Coltivare, Eight Row Flint and EZ Liquor.

At the new HiWay Cantina, start with the classic chile con queso plain or with the addition of con carne beef, chorizo, or even smoked sausage care of pork kielbasa blended with chargrilled onions and roasted chiles. The menu, which feels especially chef-driven, features Tex-Mex staples you’ll recognize. From mesquite grilled chicken and beef fajitas to slow-cooked pork carnitas and chipotle glazed shrimp brochette. House specialties include an Oaxacan-inspired roasted half chicken with a stone fruit mole, tamarind glazed quail and seafood stuffed chile relleno.

Enchiladas served with the requisite rice and bean sides, include classics from cheese filled to green chile and chicken to beef enchiladas. The expansive menu continues with tacos (soft and crispy styles), quesadillas, burritos and chimichangas. On the lighter side you’ll find soups and salads like a posole verde with chicken and green chile corn chowder, as well as a watermelon jicama salad and grilled Caesar salad.

Behind the bar, HiWay Cantina takes inspiration from the cultural traditions of Texas and Mexico, utilizing traditional tequila-based classics alongside Mexican spirits like mezcal, sotol and rums. Of course, you’ll find margaritas (house, hellfire, watermelon mezcal), bloody Mary’s (Maria, Mary, carrot black garlic) and beer centered Cheladas (the recognizable Michelada, Chela Verde, Chelada Puro). It also boasts classics like a Mexican Martini (made with a blanco tequila, Rio Grande orange, clarified lime, lime oleo, spicy olives and olive brine). In addition you’ll find the cocktail list includes two types of palomas, ranch waters, as well as aguas fresca, the latter for those not imbibing.

HiWay Cantina Tex Mex Bar and Grill is located at 1201 St Emanuel Street. It is open Sundays through Thursdays from 11 am to 9 pm and Fridays and Saturdays from 11 am to 10 pm. Brunch will be rolled out at a later date.