Houston’s Best New Lunch?

Ronnie Killen is such a perfectionist that when I jokingly tweeted about how expensive a Killen’s BBQ brisket sandwich was at the Super Bowl, he almost immediately tweeted back and agreed, noting that the prices were set by the NFL. This is a chef/pitmaster who is involved in every aspect of his restaurants.

So you know that when Ronnie Killen finally decides to do lunch at his finer dining showpiece Killen’s STQ, it’s going to be done right.

Starting this Thursday, October 5, the once-dinner-only restaurant on Voss that’s earned plenty of national praise, will be open for lunch from 11 am to 2:30. Killen’s STQ is offering lunch only Thursdays through Sundays, but even with that somewhat limited schedule it’s a welcome (and needed) addition to Houston’s upscale lunch options.

While staples such as Kata Robata and Tony’s continue to be open for lunch every day, too many of the most ambitious new restaurants seem to be keeping it dinner only. SaltAir Seafood Kitchen added lunch after about a year, but it recently scraped that and now just opens at 3 pm every day for early happy hour instead. The profit just wasn’t in it for regular lunch hours.

Lunch isn’t easy, but the popularity of Killen’s STQ gives it an edge. With the 60-seat dining room routinely completely booking up for dinner, lunch figures to be an easier entry point for people who want to try the restaurant — without having to eat at 9:30 pm on a Tuesday.

“It will be a win-win for all,” Killen says.

Killen’s New Lunch Menu

A few popular items from the dinner menu will crossover to the lunch side. Chicken-fried Wagyu ribeye, pecan-smoked pork belly, and roasted corn ravioli all make an appearance. But this will largely be a new menu for Killen’s STQ. Fried smoked pork ribs, smoked jerk chicken wings, smoked lobster bisque, and a spicy tuna Niçoise salad will all be new lunch staples.

Better yet, Ronnie Killen and Killen’s STQ chef de cuisine Teddy Lopez will treat lunch with the same respect they give to dinner. There will be regular daily and seasonal specials available during lunch, something you don’t always see with restaurants adding lunch.

After all, if you’re going to bother to do lunch, you might as well do it right. Ronnie Killen wouldn’t have it any other way.