Three Must-Read Food Books By Fort Worth Authors — Explore Barbacoa, Classic Cowtown Comfort Dishes, and The Mexican Tradition of Cabrito

At a recent wine pairing dinner at Duchess, discussions at our table turned to the relevance of printed works in a digital age. One local librarian quipped that “online reading is work and books are for leisure.” It rings true. Catching up on online posts and the latest news on a smartphone is rarely relaxing, whereas the quiet company of an enjoyable book after a long day can be endlessly enjoyable.

Three food-centric titles — all by local authors — recently caught our attention, covering everything from the craft of barbacoa to traditional Mexican techniques for cooking goat. These worthy reads should share a corner on any Fort Worth coffee table.

Barbacoa: The Heart of Tex-Mex Barbecue by Brandon Hurtado

We recently chatted with Brandon Hurtado about his new Tex-Spot, LOMA TXMX, at Arlington’s Choctaw Stadium. The owner of Hurtado Barbecue is also the author of Barbacoa: The Heart of Tex-Mex Barbecue, a photo-heavy recipe book that covers four sections: Rubs and Sauces, Side Dishes, Smoked Meats, and Tacos Y Mas.

In his introduction, Hurtado says, “At one of our first pop-up events, we served brisket and pulled pork tacos, which were things I grew up eating as delicacies. Our sides weren’t the traditional potato salad and baked beans. Instead, we served smoked elote on the cob, charro beans, and Mexican rice. We didn’t know what to call it at the time, but we knew it represented who we were.”

Hurtado guides the reader from the first page to the last, opening each section with warm memories of the first time he tried or cooked the recipes that follow. The result is a time-tested mix of traditional and original dishes that reflect both Mexican and Texas culture. For fans of Hurtado Barbecue, the pages offer a trove of detailed instructions for preparing the restaurant’s signature dishes and sauces.

There are plenty of sections dedicated to lesser-known dishes, like the Mexican cornbread muffins that blend diced jalapeños and chopped brisket for a savory treat. The photos add further motivation for readers to roll up their sleeves and try these detailed recipes for themselves.

Cowtown Comfort: Fort Worth Recipes, Places, and Food Traditions, by Celestina Blok

Author Celestina Blok did Fort Worth a solid favor when she compiled beloved recipes from Fort Worth’s treasured restaurants, from the Swiss Pastry Shop’s buttermilk pies to the famous Texas shrimp and grits by Bonnell’s Fine Texas Cuisine. If it’s a sought-after dish in Cowtown, the recipe is likely carefully laid out in Cowtown Comfort: Fort Worth Recipes, Places, and Food Traditions.

In her opening, Blok notes, “While this book is called Cowtown Comfort, know that the recipes showcased here are not restricted to the traditional definition of ‘comfort food.’ It’s a feeling of being home, whether you’re new to the city or a lifelong native, and dining at your favorite restaurant or grilling in your own backyard.”

We can’t say Blok encourages readers to whip up a cocktail before enjoying her book, but the work opens with several tempting mixed-drink recipes, including Hotel Drover’s Ranch Water and Blackland Distillery’s Salted Pecan Old Fashioned. Next are steaks and “fancy” Fort Worth dishes, with notable recipes from Grace, Ellerbe Fine Foods, and Pacific Table.

Blok leaves no culinary tradition untouched, with Wabi House’s popular chicken karaage, spiced watermelon, and spicy Kewpie mayonnaise all dutifully listed alongside accompanying photos. Reaching out to restaurant owners and cataloging around 100 recipes was no small undertaking, and readers can enjoy the results — and try their hand at Magdalena’s paella — by adding this new release from Reedy Press to their collections.

The Cabrito Path by Juan Ramón Cárdenas

Chef Juan Ramón Cárdenas — owner of Don Artemio and Dos Mares — is prolific as a restaurateur, author, and fine-dining caterer, active both here and in his home in Saltillo, Mexico. In the opening to his The Cabrito Path, the editors note, “This book features the Northeast of Mexico, a region whose climate and geography differ from the rest of the country, thus resulting in a rather particular flora, fauna, and gastronomy. This arid area … is home to the goat, considered one of the most profitable animals of all livestock.”

The Cabrito Path is as much a catalog of Cárdenas’ personal and professional journey as a chef as a compendium of goat dish recipes and cooking techniques.

“At my wedding in Saltillo,” he writes, “my wife Beatriz and I offered kid goat meat to our guests. Its preparation was handled by the team at the family restaurant El Principal and supervised by my brother Braulio.”

The book goes on to describe the decline of goat farming in Mexico, the different classifications of goats by age, and how different regions in Mexico cook and prepare the meat. Birria — the popular taco commonly made in Texas with beef — originated in Jalisco and used young goat meat that was marinated, char-grilled, and shredded before being placed in a tomato sauce.

The bulk of the book is reserved for recipes, ranging from goat tamales to tortas and tacos. More than a recipe book, The Cabrito Path provides an authoritative account of the people and gastronomy of northeast Mexico from one of Mexico’s leading chefs, who brings both deep regional knowledge and a contemporary perspective to the traditions that define the cuisine.